■ Chaoshan people's custom of going out
Dress-urban and rural people pay attention to dressing neatly when going out for business and being a guest. If you are a new guest or attend a festival, you should wear the most beautiful, timely and best-quality clothes. Rural people call it "making leather shirts and pants". Before the 196 s, farmers went to the fair to do business, mostly barefoot. After 8' s, more and more people went to the fair to do business with shoes and socks. Young men, women and children often wear new clothes when they go out to visit relatives.
carrying-in the old days, people often took market baskets and laundry lists when they went to the fair; Take flower baskets and rattan baskets with gifts from relatives. For example, when traveling, civilians use bags, some use water cloth as bags, and rich people use rattan pods and suitcases. After liberation, people used military backpacks and purses, women's flowered handbags and plastic leather bags in fashion. After the 198s, all kinds of handbags, backpacks and suitcases became popular.
means of transportation-before liberation, people used to go out on foot and take long-distance boats. Calculate the distance, with 1 Li as a shop, usually walking for an hour. Sedan is a means of transportation for wealthy families. In towns, there are many sedan shops for employment. Officials and nobles sit in big sedan chairs for four people. Generally, rich people sit in two people carrying bamboo sedan chairs, and brides get married in sedan chairs. The sedan chair was abandoned after liberation. There are very few ox carts and no horse-drawn carriages in this area. After liberation, the garrison once had a carriage, which was later replaced by a car.
Before the 2th century, inland river and offshore traffic depended on wooden sailboats and covered boats, and on double-masted red-headed boats for going to Suzhou and Hangzhou, going to Hainan and going out to sea. After the opening of Shantou port, the door was opened, and foreign ships came one after another. There were many foreign, overseas Chinese and domestic shipping companies, and small ships were also used in inland rivers. By the 193s, when water transportation was developed, people went abroad to do business in the south and north, and took more ships, and the red-headed ship abdicated. The Chaoshan Railway started construction in 194 and was completed and opened to traffic in 196, which became the main artery of traffic between Shantou and Chaozhou. From the end of the 192s to the 193s, automobile highways were generally built in Chaoshan cities and counties, and Shantou Airport was built in 1933. At this point, the sea, land and air traffic is completely smooth, and rich people and businessmen use it as a means of transportation. Rickshaws (rickshaws) became an important means of transportation on urban roads in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China. But whether in urban or rural areas, short distances still rely on walking. After liberation, a large number of bicycles appeared, and there were also many pedal tricycles in urban areas. By the 196s and 197s, Shantou had become the area with the highest bicycle density. After 198s, Shantou's land and sea transportation developed in an all-round way, and motorcycles also became the highest density area in China. Highway traffic and urban buses have also developed gradually. It has become a habit for people to go out by car, boat and plane, regardless of long distance and short distance. Crossing the river in plain areas used to rely on ferries, but bridges have been built since liberation, and small ferries in rural areas are rare.
farewell-whenever relatives and close friends travel far away, there must be farewell. Many hipsters go abroad to make a living, far away from their native land, and when they will return, they are often sentimental, or give gifts to each other as souvenirs, or send money for travelling expenses, or send boiled eggs and sweet pills to the wind, reminding them, asking them to do everything, being secular and human, and being the best. In the old days, there was a concept of "parents are here, and they don't travel far". Nowadays, the transportation is convenient, and everyone is career-oriented, and the concept is gradually changing.
taboos-in the old days, people who traveled far away had a difficult and dangerous journey, and many of them asked God for advice and chose auspicious days. When you leave, you should say auspicious words, and avoid words such as falling, sinking, turning and falling. In recent years, traffic accidents have occurred frequently, including drivers and passengers, as well as those who pray for God's blessing and depression.
■ Chaoshan people's custom of seeing off guests
hospitality
welcoming guests. When the guests arrive, the host will come forward to meet them. If the guest is a stranger, the host should introduce the guest's identity and title to his family and greet the guest to sit in the appropriate position. Visitors from afar, and a towel to wash your face.
to yancha. To respect yancha is the most common custom of hipsters, and it is indispensable to entertain guests at home. Non-smokers will be eager to buy cigarettes when guests arrive. Hipsters have a good face. You should use high-grade cigarettes when offering cigarettes. If there is no high-grade cigarettes, you often say "I'm sorry" to the guests. In the old days, in rural areas, farmers smoked with chimneys. When guests arrived, they filled cigarettes and lit the fire for them. When handing the chimneys, they often wiped the mouth of the chimneys with their palms and handed them to the guests. Later, with cigarettes, they rolled paper cigarettes for the guests. In the Qing dynasty, hipsters also had the custom of respecting betel nuts. Qianlong's "Chaozhou Prefecture Records" contains: "betel nut leaves are always released, and friends and relatives do not have wine and tea. Don't think that it is too simple and slow to set up betel nut." Later, betel nut leaves were rare, dry cigarettes became popular, and the custom of honoring betel nut was replaced by honoring yancha.
seeing off guests
seeing off guests in rural areas is more enthusiastic. Whenever guests bring gifts, the host only accepts a part of them and gives them gifts in return. They respect the old saying, "Come and don't be rude." Fujian will also be sent to the alley and outside the village. In the city, there is also this custom, but it is not as exquisite as in the countryside.
■ Looking at Chaozhou people's eating habits from Chaoshan proverbs
Wax pen
Chaoshan proverbs are a form of daily oral communication of Chaozhou people, which is a high generalization and induction of their life experiences and experiences, and contains their philosophy of life and principles of doing things. Diet, as the top priority of people's daily life, is naturally widely reflected in Chaoshan proverbs, which involves Chaoshan snacks, specialties, Chaozhou people's dietary preferences, dietary taboos, cooking stress and so on. Chaozhou people's dietary customs are more concrete, vivid and interesting in humorous Chaoshan proverbs. It can be said that Chaoshan proverbs are also a rare and important way to explore the food customs and culture of hipsters. The following will summarize the Chaoshan proverbs about the eating habits of the hipsters as follows, in order to consult the Fang family.
1. Chaoshan snacks and specialties
Chaoshan snacks are a wonderful part of Chaoshan food culture. Folk dim sum chefs in past dynasties have absorbed the strengths of many families, collected all local specialties, carefully produced them, and gradually accumulated to form colorful and unique local food works of art. It is also famous for its variety, exquisite materials, fine production, unique ingredients and delicious taste. Among them, the famous brands are all manifested in Chaoshan proverbs:
1. Laoma Palace Zongqiu-food is right
Laoma Palace Zongqiu refers to the Zongqiu of Shunde near Mazu Palace (that is, Laoma Palace) at the head of Shengping Road in Shantou City. Because zongzi is wrapped in bamboo leaves, you don't know the taste until you open it and eat it, so there is this saying. Metaphor has long seen people's hearts. Because hipsters have the custom of eating zongzi and racing dragon boats on the Dragon Boat Festival on the fifth day of May. Moreover, after the Dragon Boat Festival in the south, the climate began to turn hot. Therefore, there is also a proverb that "I didn't eat zongzi in May, but I didn't dare to let it go."
2. Sunan pancake-sweet mouth and smooth tongue
Sunan pancake is a famous snack in Chenghai District, Shantou City, which is instant in the mouth, crisp and delicious. This means that someone can speak well and be good at boasting.
3. Jinghai Beans-Good throat and bad teeth
Jinghai Beans are famous snacks in Huilai County, Jieyang City, which are sweet and delicious, but people with bad teeth tend to stick between their teeth because of their flexible texture. As the saying goes, what is good will be lost.
4. yixi cake-large piece of thick
yixi cake, a famous mooncake produced in yixi town, Chaozhou, is larger and thicker than mooncakes produced in other places. This is a metaphor for better opportunities or richer income.
5. Mianhu Crispy Sugar-No Meal
Mianhu Crispy Sugar is now a famous product in Mianhu, Jiexi County, Jieyang City, which melts at the entrance without residue. This is a metaphor for unfounded talk.
6. Laojuntang's incense rot-loomed loomed
Laojuntang's incense rot is the gusu incense rot produced by Laojuntang in Xiadongping Road, Chaozhou City. The texture is hard and tough, so it needs to be swallowed slowly and chewed carefully. Yu tough.
7. Shrimp from Seamount-big-inserted
Shrimp from Seamount is a pair of dried prawns which are abundant in Sanbaimen, Raoping County, Jieyang City. In this way, there is a big source of income.
8. Lion-headed Goose-Big and Elegant
Lion-headed Goose is famous in Chenghai District, Shantou City, with big head, elegant posture and delicious meat. As the saying goes, this is a metaphor for tall and strong people.
9. Chaozhou Citrus-Bumper
Chaozhou Citrus is famous in Chaoshan. It is big and juicy, and it used to be exported for a long time.
1. Pipa and persimmon on duck's back in Chinei
Chinei and persimmon on duck's back belong to Guihu Town, Chao 'an County, Chaozhou City. It is a famous fruit town, one is rich in pipa and the other is rich in persimmon.
11. Chen Qiao's grandmother is surprised that the old man in Xidong is afraid of wheat.
Both Chen Qiao and Xidong belong to Chaozhou City. One is rich in cucumber and the other is rich in wheat, which makes everyone tired of eating for a long time.
12. Nanpanzhou Caitou-Pain Cave
Nanpanzhou Caitou is a well-bred radish rich in Chenghai District, Shantou City, with a large head. Legend has it that a farmer went to the field one morning and found that the radish was stolen, leaving only big holes in the field. Faced with such a scene, the old farmer could only feel sorry for the stolen radish in the hole. This means heavy losses.
13. Pork intestines swell with glutinous rice
Pork intestines swell with glutinous rice, that is, glutinous rice sausage, a famous snack in Chaoshan. Made of glutinous rice and various fillings stuffed into pig intestines, with thin skin, full stuffing and bulging. As the saying goes, by its appearance, it means that someone dresses too tightly to tie his limbs.
14. Mianhu Dried Bean Curd-Hot Single Side
Mianhu Dried Bean Curd is a famous product in Mianhu Town, Jiexi County, Jieyang City. When eating, fry the dried beans in the oil pan, only one side, so that half of them are brown and crispy, and the other half is still milky and tender, which makes them taste unique. Proverbs use homophone-related techniques to describe unrequited love.
15. There is nothing to do. Sweet
Sweet, a glutinous rice rice cake steamed by hipsters with glutinous rice and brown sugar. Because it is not easy to deteriorate, it is convenient to store, and at the same time, it is resistant to digestion and can fill the stomach. It is a necessary food for migrant workers who used to go overseas by red-headed boat. Because it is helpless to travel across the ocean and go out to work, I have this sigh.
Second, the Chaozhou people's dietary preferences reflected in Chaoshan proverbs
As the saying goes, "radish and cabbage have their own tastes" and "one side of the soil and water will nourish one side". People's choice of food depends not only on their personal physical characteristics, the conditions of the times, the surrounding natural environment, but also on their cultural characteristics. Different cultures have different standards and consumption patterns for food. Chaoshan people who are located in the seaside have their own opinions and preferences about food.
1. the big pointed winter festival black
pointed: a kind of fish at the intersection of rivers and seas. Wu: mullet, a kind of freshwater fish. Winter Festival: Winter Solstice. From the winter festival to the end of the year, these two kinds of fish are the fattest. Mullet is a kind of freshwater fish that Chaoshan people prefer to eat and is also valuable, which is widely reflected in Chaoshan proverbs. Related proverbs include "cold black hot perch" (black mullet in winter and black perch in summer are the most plump) and "black mullet gills are not willing to share" (black mullet is delicious, even the gills that can't be eaten are not shared with others). In June, black mullet was out of order, but bitter gourd and mullet began to be listed fresh, so there was another "June black mullet kept a mouth."
2. Carp's throat beats grass carp's head
hipsters say that the part between the head and stomach of Carp's head is the best, which is more delicious than grass carp's head. Cyprinus carpio is the fattest fish in June, and it is a good product when it is available. Therefore, there is also a saying "Gu Yu in June".
3. Sugarcane eating pains in beginning of winter
Sugarcane in beginning of winter is ripe, so it won't get angry after eating.
4. At night, you faint in the east, sleep in the north, red-maned fish, fresh thin shells
East wind blows at night, and north wind blows early, which is the season for red-maned fish and short-toothed mussels. Thin shell is a specialty of Chaoshan, which grows at the mouth of rivers. It grows most fully in June, so there is a saying "thin shell in June-fake big head".
5. money snails and mussels-eating sour mouths
money snails and mussels are two kinds of shellfish, which have little meat and are not convenient to eat, and there is nothing to eat at the same time.
6. selling plums every three or four days and mowing grass every five or six days
bayberry is in season in March and April every year, and people start to sell bayberry in the market. But "one bayberry, three fires", bayberry has hot air, it is easy to get angry and can't eat more. Because bayberry is not easy to preserve, after the Dragon Boat Festival, there is no bayberry on the market. That is, "Shui Mei does not celebrate April 8th, and Yangmei does not celebrate May Festival".
It's hot in May and June every year, and people start selling grass (cold food) in the street. Grass is a heat-clearing snack sold by folk vendors in Chaoshan in dog days. Generally, it is filled in a big jar. When someone buys it, they scrape it out of the jar one by one with a spoon and put it in a bowl. At the same time, they cut it in the bowl several times and sprinkle sugar on it to eat. Similar summer food is tofu flower. These are all small businesses. Therefore, it is called "grass tofu pudding, cutting ginseng and cutting" (this is small and profitable). Related proverbs include "others' grass, others' sugar" (other people's things can be squandered at will), "grass is cooked, and the weather changes" (the weather in summer is changeable), "clouds float in the south, and grass is sold" (it is rainy, but grass can't be sold) and so on.
7. peaches, plums and persimmons are ripe in March and April, and persimmons and persimmons are in season in July and August.
8. first frost, when olives fall into the urn
first frost, olives can be harvested when they are ripe. The reason why olives are packed in an urn is that they wrinkle when they see the wind, and they need to be sealed in an urn for a long time.
9. Fish-eaters like to eat horse mackerel and pomfret, and they like to watch Su six niang at the theatre.
It is said that horse mackerel and pomfret are good fish, and the Chaozhou opera Su six niang is a good play. Influx people especially like delicious pomfret heads. To what extent do they like eating them? There is a saying that "selling fields and land to buy pomfret noses" exaggerates the delicacy of pomfret heads.
1. the identity of eating gnats
gnats, a kind of crabs, have tapered shells at both ends and long feet. hipsters like to marinate raw food with raw gnats, which is very delicious, but it is not good for the stomach and is easy to cause diarrhea.
Third, from Chaoshan proverbs, we can see that Chaozhou people pay attention to cooking.
Chaozhou people's cooking techniques pay attention to color, aroma and taste, and their long-standing cooking culture has long enjoyed a high reputation at home and abroad through the large and small Chaozhou restaurants at home and abroad. In particular, Chaozhou cuisine is famous for its seafood, colorful cooking materials, shark's fin, bird's nest, viscera of livestock and some vegetables, which are rarely used in the world.
1. How to make Chaozhou cuisine
There are three main stir-frying techniques in the cooking of Chaozhou cuisine. Pay attention to "strong fire and thick fragrant fish sauce" when frying dishes. Preparation of four kinds of clear soup in "stew" Chaozhou cuisine. It is to use raw fish dishes to soak in hot soup, just like eating hot pot now. Among Chaozhou cuisine, soup and bubble are the most distinctive. Characterized by sweet and delicious, and can maintain the original flavor.
2. The "color plate" art of Chaozhou cuisine
When Chaozhou cuisine is loaded, the chef carefully carves various flowers and birds with bamboo shoots, radishes and potatoes, or puts vegetables on the plate for ornament. Therefore, there is a saying that "Sister Wan's head is stacked". Guanlu, a kind of coriander unique to Chaoshan area, is used as a dish head. The word "elder sister" is purely an anthropomorphic honorific title, which does not mean that it is a woman. This proverb is a metaphor for people and things that go ahead.
3. Pay attention to the cooking ingredients of Chaozhou cuisine
There are sayings of "tender ginger and aged vinegar" and "raw onion and cooked garlic". Ginger for seasoning should be tender and vinegar should be aged. When using onions, you only need to chop them without frying them, but when using garlic, you need to fry them. These are all highly summarized experiences of Chaoshan chefs. Chaozhou cuisine also attaches great importance to seasonings. When each big dish is served, it must be accompanied by a "sauce dish", sometimes sweet sauce, sometimes plum paste sauce, sometimes orange juice and so on. It all depends on what dishes are served. Dip in all kinds of "saucers" and taste more unique.
4. Pay attention to the dishes of Chaozhou banquet
Chaozhou banquet dishes pay attention to the diversification of diet and the combination of meat and vegetables. Therefore, there is a proverb "Eat fish and eat meat, but also eat vegetables".
Bibliography:
A Complete Collection of Chinese Cuisine
A Collection of Chaoshan Idioms
A Dictionary of Chaoshan Dialect Idioms
A Collection of Chaoshan Idioms
Notes by Cai Shaobin.