Jiang has a bird's eye view of
Fuchun River
There is a greenway in Xin 'anjiang River in Jiande, starting from Xin 'anjiang Dam, along the river to Xiaya, Daitou and Meicheng, and finally to Gantan, with green mountains and green waters all the way.
the greenway is divided into four sections, and the urban section is called "Zishu Greenway", which is the slow-moving system of Xin 'anjiang Dacheng District, with a total length of 3.5 kilometers.
The purple potato greenway released in Hangzhou at the end of last year
The second section of "Huangrao Peninsula Greenway" is 2.18km long.
The third section "Jiande/Sanjiang Greenway" is about 18km long.
The fourth section "Sandu Greenway" is 9.8km long.
The most poetic part is the third paragraph, which starts from Yandongguan in Meicheng in the west and ends in Gantan Town in the east. I first came into contact with this most beautiful greenway because of a coincidence.
I'm going to a newly-opened hotel that day. I'm going to drive from Hangzhou downtown, along Hangzhou Xinjing Expressway, and it takes about an hour and a half to reach Gantan Town, jiande city. When I arrived at Xuxi Wharf in Gantan, I found that it was too late, and the ceremony of "entering the hotel by boat" could not be realized. The hotel staff prepared a battery car for me, parked the car, walked a short distance, and crossed the bridge directly from the greenway.
I didn't swim and lie on the Fuchun River, but I also had an unexpected pleasure of "Don't listen to the sound of beating leaves through the forest, why not sing and walk slowly".
the next morning, I walked back to the dock along the greenway again, with green mountains on one side and green water on the other. Hearing the sound of gurgling water, I instinctively approached the nest with a mouthful of clear water.
Because of Fuchun Shan Jutu, Fuchun River has always been endowed with transcendental charm. The mountains and slopes are covered with rocks, and the clouds and trees are grey and dense. The scenery moves with people, and people move with the scenery. The scenery of Fuchun River has an unadorned natural luxury and has always been a secluded place in the hearts of China literati.
The name of my hotel is "Fangwai", which is poetic. The word "Fang wai" comes from the book of changes, which means that "a gentleman respects straightforwardness, while righteousness respects Fang wai", and it also refers to "fairyland" or "the living environment of monks and Taoists".
since it's so fairy, when you enter again, you must sail in. Unexpectedly, it was a speedboat, which took about 15 minutes to reach the west bank of Xuxi, a tributary.
Ride the wind by speedboat
Nowadays, hotels are becoming more and more cultural, and it is not idle to take hotels as holiday destinations. For example, it's the first time I've heard of the layout unit of "group".
There are several independent suites in a "group". External cohesion, hiding wind and gathering water. Buildings stand in groups and people return to the traditional Chinese group life. Each group has a name: Jimao, Yumu, Huaqing, Zhufang, Heqiu and Zhilu, which correspond to Metasequoia glyptostroboides, elm, maple, bamboo forest, pine and cypress and reed respectively, all of which are abundant vegetation within our eyesight. Poetic and picturesque.
It's the first time that I've heard of the profession of "courtesy". Compared with the "concierge" that many hotels set up nowadays, the courtesy should not only arrange travel, eat and meet the needs of life, but also be responsible for popularizing the culture of the guests.
For example, why is my room called Huaqing? Because Huaqing is the maple tree at the door.
Li Shi explained that because maple leaves contain a special substance-anthocyanin, which is just the opposite of chlorophyll. As the weather turned cold, the number gradually increased, making the maple leaves turn red.
I've learned a lot.
People are willing to spend a lot of money to stay in hotels. Besides expensive mattresses and ecological food, they can make friends, and it is best to make them feel that this trip has opened up new horizons and opened up new fields.
if you have a good environment, sleep well and gain knowledge, the rest is to eat. When you arrive in Jiande, you must eat Jiande cuisine. I have a friend who is obsessed with food and calls Jiande cuisine "the Hunan cuisine of Zhejiang".
Compared with Sichuan cuisine, dried chili and red oil are mostly used in Hunan cuisine. Douchi, fresh green and red chili and millet chili are the most commonly used, and soybean sauce is also preferred. Jiande cuisine is similar in temperament and taste to Hunan cuisine.
Nine Fish Head Huang, Yanzhou Tofu Bao, Yanzhou Salted Tangyuan and Yanzhou Dried Duck are all famous dishes in Yanzhou.
"Yanzhou" is an old name. The former Yanzhou County has been merged into Tonglu County, Chun 'an County and jiande city, which are subordinate to Hangzhou today. The seat of Guyan Prefecture is called Meicheng, and Meicheng Town is a thousand-year-old town under the jurisdiction of jiande city, Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province.
Although the administrative unit of Yanzhou Prefecture has long been out of use, Jiande people are still proud of Yanzhou cuisine.
The culture of Guyan Prefecture is profound, and there are stories behind the food. The famous dish "Nine Surnames Fish Head Emperor" is a special food compiled according to the folk custom of local fishermen with nine surnames "having a good wind and returning home with a full load".
"Nine surnames" refer to nine surnames: Chen, Qian, Lin, Yuan, Sun, Ye, Xu, Li and He. Their ancestors were Chen Youliang's subordinates in the late Yuan and early Ming Dynasties. After failing to compete with Zhu Yuanzhang for hegemony in the world, they were banished to the waters of Yanzhou and never allowed to go ashore.
Meicheng is located at the intersection of Xin 'anjiang River, Lanjiang River and Fuchunjiang River. It is rich in fish and can be used for cooking all year round. In addition, 17% of Fuchunjiang's high-quality water resources can be obtained everywhere, and fish bones are used to hang soup, and fish fillets are made by hand, which gives full play to the role of fish.
The hotel has also developed its own special dish-the big fish head boiled with pumpkin and other grains, which is delicious and sour. If you think the taste is too strong, you can also choose the fish head of Wulong Mountain spring water.
Wulong Mountain is a place name, located in the east of Jiande and north of Meicheng, an ancient town. The main body of Wulong Mountain is fan-shaped, and the upper peak is 99 meters above sea level. It is the most famous mountain in ancient Yanzhou Prefecture. Song Jiang's attack on Fang La in Water Margin happened on Wulong Mountain.
There is a local saying that "Meicheng people will cry as long as they don't see Wulong Mountain", which expresses their homesickness. There is a yuquan temple on the mountain. I have a monk friend who became a monk in Putuo Mountain. As soon as he heard that I was going to Jiande again, he told me to visit the place where he once lived, and his impression was excellent.
A scene of Fuchun River
yuquan temple was built in Zhenyuan, Tang Dezong in the 1th year, and was founded by Master Shao Kang, the fifth ancestor of Pure Land Sect. It has a history of more than 1,2 years, and was destroyed by Japanese troops in 1942 and rebuilt in 199. Backed by Wulong Mountain, facing the ancient town of Meicheng, the peaks are surrounded by mountains, the ancient trees are towering, the mountain springs are flowing, and the three rivers are surging in the distance.
These Buddhist temples are quite different from Putuo Mountain. I can't help but think of the scene described by Chen Chuncheng in Zhufeng Temple. I imagine that there is a very narrow gap between dusk and night, and the wind from another world blows from there. After sitting for several evenings, I seem to understand a little. There is a depressed power, a broad depression, which comes at dusk. At that moment, the meaning of things is drifting away. In the dark sky, nothing matters. First you panic, then you let go, and then you don't exist.
let's talk about food again.
Yanzhou tofu bag is also famous. The tofu in it is not a tofu block, but a mixture of mustard tuber and meat foam. "Sucking" is the correct way to eat tofu bag. Because the traditional tofu buns are spicy, there is a debate about whether to improve them after coming to the hotel. Some people say that "since it is a local food, you should eat the original flavor". Some people think that the guests in the hotel come from all directions and have a moderate taste.
There are also slightly spicy Yanzhou shortbread and crab shell yellow shell, and the best thing is the stuffing made by mixing fat meat with fine dried vegetables, which is crispy when bitten in one bite. And glutinous rice balls, which locals love to eat fresh meat, are commonly known as "salty glutinous rice balls".
Salted dumplings
According to legend, a poor scholar in Longshan Academy in Yanzhou Prefecture married a beautiful and intelligent daughter-in-law, and everyone praised him for being blessed. On the Lantern Festival, the scholar reluctantly agreed to the classmate's request to eat glutinous rice balls at his home. The scholar's family was poor and had no money to buy sugar, so the clever daughter-in-law used winter pickles and diced tofu as stuffing and made a unique salted dumplings to entertain guests. Everyone tasted the glutinous rice balls and found them smooth and salty. Yanzhou salty glutinous rice balls have been passed down to this day.
On the Lantern Festival many years ago, when there was no public comment, I suddenly wanted to eat salty glutinous rice balls, so I took a bus to those possible small alleys and found it in a small restaurant in Jiande. I think this kind of spirit is rare now.
If you have the physical strength to practice the third section (18km) of the greenway, you will have the opportunity to experience the original flavor of Yanzhou cuisine. The conventional way is to drive, while the romantic way is to take a boat. Take a boat from Qili Sailing Pier, or discuss with the hotel to charter a boat and go down the Fuchun River. As we approached, the ancient wall of Meicheng Town was made of blue bricks, with half a plum blossom as the battlements, and the yellow flag of "Yanzhou Prefecture" fluttered in the wind.
Yanzhou Ancient City
Yanzhou Ancient City Wall
Meicheng is a thousand-year-old town with a history of more than 1,7 years. It was the seat of Yanzhou Prefecture and Jiande County for generations, and it was only in 1938 that it was confirmed as the official place name of Jiande County. The humanistic landscape of Meicheng has been described in classical literature such as Outlaws of the Marsh, Scholars, Officialdom in Appearance and Jin Ping Mei.
"Mei" refers to plum blossom, and "Meicheng" is named after a section of zhi die along the river of the ancient Yanzhou city wall. Generally speaking, only the walls of the capital can be built in plum blossom shape, which reflects the identity and status.
"There are two and a half plum blossoms in the world", one in Beijing, one in Nanjing and half in Yanzhou. But this half flower is enough to make Meicheng people proud, which means that they can be on an equal footing with North and South Beijing.
Where there is an ancient town, there must be an ancient street, paved with bluestone slabs and Huizhou architecture with white walls and black tiles. Those Xinhua bookstores and cinemas with a strong sense of time are still preserved, and there are shops on both sides.
in August 218, the protection of the ancient city began. With the help of the remains of the stone components of the archway and the existing monuments, the ancient city of Yanzhou reappeared in Meicheng-Jiandehou archway stood in the middle of the main street with exquisite stone carvings to commemorate the achievements of Jiandehou in guarding Yanzhou City at that time.
Fan Zhongyan was missed by Sifanfang. During the Northern Song Dynasty, Fan Zhongyan was demoted to Muzhou (Yanzhou) for one year, with outstanding achievements. He founded the first school in Jiande, Longshan Academy, dredged the East West Lake in Meicheng, presided over the construction of the Yan Ziling Ancestral Temple, and personally wrote "Mr. Yan's Ancestral Temple", praising Yan Ziling's high morals and bright festivals with the beautiful words of "Yunshan is grey, the river is vast, the wind is gentle, and the mountains are high."
However, local people say that the archways handed down in ancient times are all short and short, so they are not as magnificent as they are now. "In the past, the commercial street was directly facing the water terminal, and I grew up listening to the whistle." The locals all expressed their feelings.
In the "Beautiful Town Construction in Meicheng" in 219, Meicheng was added and renovated on the basis of the original "ornamental ancient town".
The Yanqing Post Office in Yanzhou, located in Sanxing Street, has been renovated and transformed into the Yanzhou Post Office Culture Exhibition Hall, so that you can know the cultural overview of Yanzhou's letter age.
The cinema in Meicheng ancient town
No.22 Main Street is a typical hotel in the Republic of China. It used to be Jinyuanchang cigarette factory, mainly producing local cigarettes. After War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression's victory in 1945, handmade cigarettes developed into machine-made cigarettes, mainly producing "Double Admiralty" and "Golden Cat" brand cigarettes. However, even if you can't live, the tobacco museum in the inn is still a punching point. The local government collected the account books, material registration books and records of Jin Zhonghan's life, and interviewed the employees who worked in the cigarette factory that year, showing the owner Jin Zhonghan's life, Jin Yuanchang Cigarette Factory, Hangzhou Cigarette Factory and related history and tobacco culture.
Standing on the wall overlooking the ancient town of Meicheng
The wall is at the end of the ancient street. The Yanzhou Stone Museum is located under the ancient wall of Meicheng, with the theme of "preaching on the wall", showing the historical development, cultural heritage and humanistic spirit of Meicheng. Boarding the ancient city wall, the landscape of Xin 'anjiang is spread out in front of you, covered with smoke cages and fog, and the canoe passes by, which is a natural amorous feelings painting in itself.
Proofreading: Liu Wei