Mr. Zhang Zhongxing recalled the life of the old Peking University in Negative Xuan Suo Hua, in which he talked about the places where he had eaten in those years, such as the noodle shop, the second meat shop and the stove temperature, and there was a lot of nostalgia. The noodle shop is a food stall in old Beijing, selling noodles and cakes in real earnest, mainly patronized by working people. The stove temperature is relatively high, cakes are counted by the piece, and noodles are sold by the bowl. At that time, it was once famous for "rotten meat noodles" and "a nest of silk cakes", but it should still be a street shop, right? In the article Eating, Mr. Liang Shiqiu recalled that he saw a coachman bring his own pork and leek in Zaowen, and asked the store to process the materials. A bowl of meat and two cakes, the driver stood and rolled up and ate it.

the second meat shop is a little more advanced than the sliced noodles shop, but it may not be as good as the oven temperature, which has signature dishes, so the second meat shop only has a few more hot dishes than the sliced noodles shop. At that time, Mr. Zhang lived in the beach dormitory of Peking University, and he loved pancakes and braised beef from a nearby two-meat shop. The cake was made by weighing, and every time he could eat twelve taels (at that time, it was sixteen taels and one catty) and a bowl of beef. This small shop has a famous dish "Mr. Zhang Tofu", which is a "famous dish" for students. The minced meat is braised with South Tofu, which can be eaten or drunk. It is cheap and good.

Chenghua Garden on Wangfujing Street in old Beijing is a place where scholars like to linger. Hu Shi invented "Hu Shizhi Fish" here, which is a soup made of diced carp, bamboo shoots, mushrooms and sea cucumbers. It is very suitable for eating. Hu Shi doesn't like drinking, but he doesn't hate food. When he just came back from the United States, he often went to a small Huizhou restaurant. When the boss heard that it was an Anhui accent, he immediately shouted: "Jixi old guest, please go upstairs-heavy oil!" Heavy oil means caring for fellow villagers, and it is called to the kitchen. Hu Shi treated guests here for many times, leaving a "two-smoked doctor": Huangshan Yunwushan tea smoked chicken and smoked osmanthus fish, in which Hu Shi's favorite spicy soy sauce and bean paste were used in particular.

Sansheng Pavilion also has a famous dish "Wu Fish Slices", which is a masterpiece of Mr. Wu Jun She. The fish is cut into long strips and mixed with high-grade soy sauce and Nanyaojia well water. In fact, it is raw fish. Among the literati of that year, Zhou Zuoren liked this dish best, probably because he stayed in Japan. When Zhou Zuoren lived in Badaowan, he often bought an old man's smoked bean curd. Later, Zhou Zuoren taught him a method. Dried tofu was marinated with beef soup first, and wormwood and mint leaves were added to the fumigant, which significantly improved the taste. From then on, it was called "Qian Zhou Special Offering", which was greatly sold on the occasion of the New Year's Festival. People said: Children will be smart if they eat qianzi from the Zhou family.

Guangheju is the most famous place. Pan Zuyin, the minister of the Ministry of Industry in the Qing Dynasty, often came here. Tired of eating big fish and big meat, he came up with a way to eat fish without using a knife or oil. He broke a carp in half by hand, added seasoning, and steamed it until it was just cut off. It was unusually fresh and called "Pan Fish". Pan Zuyin is also a man with good taste. He also has a "Pan Tofu" handed down from ancient times, which is cooked with live duck brain and water tofu. It is very delicious. There is also a "Jiang Tofu" in Guangheju, which was awarded by Jiang Yuntao. It is made of tofu, shrimp, lobster sauce and diced bamboo shoots. It is a private kitchen of the Jiang family and is also very beautiful. Jiang Yuntao is a satrap, and Pan Zuyin is a history book. Some people often call "Jiang Tofu" and "Pan Tofu" together, and compare the tofu of the satrap and the history book.

"Han Elbow" and "Tao Cai" are also a pair of enemies who live in harmony. "Han Elbow" was created by Han Xinshe. It is made of pork elbow mixed with five seasonings, which is crisp outside and rotten inside, and has a strong aroma. "Tao Cai" is the invention of Tao Fu, and it is also made of pig's elbow, but it is Jiangnan style, adding gluten, roasted husband and so on, which is sweeter. Han Xinshe is a minister, and Tao Fu is an assistant minister. Diners like to call them to compare.

Ma Lianliang, a famous Beijing opera star, had dinner in Youyishun, and specially asked Yang Yong and his master to make him shredded horse meat. This "shredded horse meat" is actually shredded mutton in vinegar, but the difference is that Ma Lianliang asked Yang Yonghe to beat a thin layer of eggs on the dish while the shredded meat was being cooked, and then beat a layer of cream on the eggs after cooking, and put an apricot on it. Ma Lianliang, a Hui nationality, likes mutton and western food. This dish is his invention of combining Chinese and western.

Sheng Xuanhuai, Minister of Westernization in Qing Dynasty, loved barbecued ham best. His subordinates went to Yunnan on business and bought two Xuanwei hams to honor him. Sheng Xuanhuai asked the chef to trim the ham first, brush it with egg paste, roast it with an iron fork on a charcoal fire, and cut it into pieces to eat with shredded pepper and sour cabbage, believing that it was sweeter than Jinhua ham. When this practice spread, Xuanwei ham became "Xuanhuai ham".

Li Hongzhang, a teacher in Sheng Xuanhuai, has been dealing with foreigners all his life. In 1896, Li Hongzhang attended the coronation of the czar and visited the United States. In the United States, Li Hongzhang hosted many celebrities, and the "Li Hongzhang Banquet" cooked by Fu Yuwei, a famous Huizhou cuisine teacher, was very popular. Frank Americans eat all the food every time, and they are not satisfied with shouting. Fu Yuwei had to stew some leftovers and raw materials in a spoonful as the last course. Leftovers are the most delicious. Beijingers call them "Zheluo", which is characterized by five flavors. I didn't expect Americans to like it, so I named it "Li Hongzhang chop suey".

Li Hongzhang is a student of Zeng Guofan, who fought with Zeng Shi and Taiping Army for many years. Zeng Guofan committed suicide three times because of defeat, and he was so tired that he vomited blood several times. In Nanjing, Li Hongzhang once gave Zeng Shi a mandarin fish, but Zeng Guofan did not accept it. Li Hongzhang asked the chef to cook mandarin fish and Anfu ham with a crock. The soup was fresh and tender, and Zeng Guofan's spirit of eating was greatly boosted. Later, this dish became a traditional dish of Zengfu, known as "Zeng Fish".

Zhang Daqian is a "showman" with many anecdotes. The dishes named after him are "Daqian Fish", "Daqian Tofu" and "Daqian Cabbage". Daqian Cabbage is actually similar to the "shredded pork with rotten cabbage" in the south of the Yangtze River, or the "smoked cabbage with shredded fat duck" that Qianlong likes. It is a fire dish, which needs to be simmered with small torches. Cabbage is very important here. You need to use a thick, fat and moisture-rich bangzi, and only a few pieces of cabbage will be qualified. This dish is ordinary, but it needs strict selection of ingredients and hard work to show its beauty. At that time, Zhang Daqian loved eating cabbage and painting cabbage. He wanted to exchange a cabbage map for a cart full of cabbage from a vegetable dealer, but people refused. He touched his head and thought he was ill.