First, prepare flowerpots and culture soil.
Pitaya is a shallow-rooted plant, and there is no need to change pots during cultivation. Pottery pots and wooden cases with a diameter of 25-35 cm can be used. It is best not to use containers with poor air permeability such as plastic pots and porcelain pots. Before planting, the pots must be disinfected, and the new pots need not be disinfected. However, it must be soaked in clear water for several hours before the dirty gas in the pores on the basin wall can be discharged, otherwise the normal growth of roots will be affected.
Pitaya has no strict requirements on culture soil, but the soil must be loose and breathable, well drained, neutral or slightly acidic, and does not like alkaline soil. Family potted plants can make their own culture soil. Mix 6 parts of humus soil, 2 parts of manure soil and 2 parts of coarse river sand evenly. It has been piled for more than half a month.
Second, pot seedling management
Potted pitaya had better use cuttage seedlings. As long as the seedlings have roots and send out new branches, they can move pots. First, put two pieces of broken mud tiles on the holes at the bottom of the basin, and then lay a layer of pebbles or coarse sand with a thickness of 3-5 cm on the bottom of the basin as a drainage layer. Then, put it into half a pot of prepared culture soil. In the center of the basin soil, two steamed bun-shaped mounds are piled side by side, and two seedlings are placed on the mounds, with the spacing between the plants not exceeding 5 cm, and the roots of the seedlings are scattered around the mounds. Then put a stick between the two seedlings and tie them together. At this time, it is necessary to adjust the direction of the seedlings, and the sunny side of the seedlings is facing south (the triangular stem of pitaya has two sides, the widest, largest angle and slightly lighter color of the three cores are the cloudy side, and the diagonal side is the sunny side). Then cultivate the soil to the edge of the flowerpot 3 cm, gently press the soil around the plants with your hands, and then water it 1 time. 1 week later, move to the balcony for normal management, and pay attention to the sunny side facing south when placing.
Pitaya is a drought-tolerant plant. It would rather be dry than wet, and water it when it is dry. Once a week, the organic fertilizer solution mainly containing nitrogen fertilizer should be poured, not too thick. Pitaya is a sunshine plant. However, at noon when the sun is too strong in summer, you should also shade yourself properly. It is also necessary to remove the new lateral buds from the stems and branches at any time, leaving only the terminal buds to promote growth. When the plant height is about 1 m, the stem tip about 3 cm long is cut off at the top to promote the lateral branches to come out at the top. When the top branch grows to about 50 cm. Then insert four bamboo poles about 1 m around the basin, tie a beam at the top of the bamboo poles, and tie the lateral branches to the beam to make them naturally extend or droop. When the lateral branches exceed 80 cm, the stem tip should be cut off by about 3 cm to reduce nutrient consumption, promote flower bud differentiation and blossom and bear fruit early. If it is well managed, it will bloom in 7-8 months.
Third, flowering period management
Pitaya has a long flowering period, large flowers and high demand for nutrition. Therefore, in addition to strengthening the management of fertilizer and water at seedling stage, organic liquid fertilizer containing phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be topdressing 1 time before flowering, and topdressing 1 time every 5 to 7 days. Potted pitaya on balcony and roof is limited by the small amount of soil and nutrient supply, and the lateral branches should not be too long, and each branch should not exceed 3. Finally, we have to pick two flowers to eat, leaving only 1 flower.
Pitaya can be self-pollinated, but cross-pollination has higher seed setting rate and delicious fruit, so artificial pollination should be carried out if possible. When the flowers bloom at night, use a new brush to get some pollen from the stamen anther of one flower and bounce it onto the pistil stigma of another flower.
Postharvest management and overwintering
Every year after 165438+ 10, the fruits are basically harvested. At this time, the base fertilizer should be applied once. The method is to dig the soil around the inside of the basin to a depth of about 10 cm with a small spatula, temporarily pile it on the roots of plants, then apply organic fertilizer mixed with manure and chicken manure, and then restore the soil and water it 1 time to prepare for wintering.
In most parts of the north, to keep out the cold, just move indoors. It's best to put it on a sunny windowsill. It should be noted that fertilization is not allowed in winter. Proper control of watering. Don't leave the room too early after spring. Generally speaking, you will definitely leave the room after mid-May. After leaving the room, the side branches that bear fruit in the first year are cut off from the near roots to promote the appearance of new side branches and lay the foundation for early flowering and fruiting in that year, otherwise the original side branches can no longer blossom and bear fruit.
Cutting seedling raising method of pitaya
Cutting method. From May to September every year, the meat stems removed from the mother plant are cut into small pieces 5 to 6 cm long, and the edges are coated with plant ash or disinfectant powder. After being exposed to the sun for 3 to 5 hours, insert it and disinfect it with potassium permanganate solution. Then insert it into a seedbed made of washed fine river sand with a spacing of 3 cm, spray water to keep the substrate moist, and put it in a ventilated and dry place. After about 50 days, the roots take root, and the surviving plants are transplanted into 3-5 inch clay pots. The soil quality is 60% humus soil, 30% garden soil and 10% sand. When there are small arrowhead stems on the plants, the basin soil remains moist and placed in strong sunlight. Fertilize every 7 ~ 10 days. Organic fertilizer is combined with liquid nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, supplemented by inorganic fertilizer. It is not easy to have too much fertilizer and water to prevent the roots from rotting.
1. Pitaya cutting seedling or crop grafting seedling
Cutting of pitaya seedlings: Spring is the most suitable time. The cuttings were cut into small segments with the length of 15cm. After the wound was air-dried, it was inserted into the sand bed and took about 15-30 days to take root. When the root grew to 3-4cm, it was transplanted into the seedbed.
2. Grafting of young seedlings of dragon fruit: select a ruler with no pests and diseases, strong growth and full flesh as the rootstock, and graft on sunny days. Cut the pitaya stem into a plane with a knife, insert the scion, align it with the cambium, and tie it tightly with cotton thread. Under the condition of 28-30 degrees Celsius, a large number of callus will be formed on the joint surface of the wound in 4-5 days, and the color of the scion is close to that of the rootstock, indicating that the vascular bundles of the two have healed and grafted successfully. At this time, they can be moved into the heel of the seedbed to continue culture.
3. Pitaya seedling management: The seedbed should be a field with sunny ventilation, fertile soil and convenient irrigation and drainage. Carefully cultivate the soil, furrow 90 cm, 667 square meters, apply decomposed chicken manure or cow dung1500 kg-2,000 kg, and mix rice husk ash 1000 kg, and fully stir. After that, calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer 100- 150 kg was applied, fully stirred with a hoe, and applied to the plough layer 4-5 cm deep. Then plant the seedlings in a seedbed with row spacing of 3 cm, water them, and spray carbendazim 1 0/0 500 times every10.
The cutting substrate can be coarse river sand (preferably with carbonized chaff). Keep the matrix slightly moist after insertion. It takes about 20 days to take root. Fertilization principle of potted pitaya: thin fertilizer and diligent application. Organic and inorganic combination. Seedling stage: high nitrogen, low phosphorus and low potassium; Flowering and fruiting period: low nitrogen and high phosphorus and potassium. Methods: Every year in February, May and August, 50 grams of peanut bran were buried under the soil of 65438±00cm at the edge of each pot. From May to June in 10, the chemical fertilizer solution was poured once every 10 day, and the concentration was about 0.7%. Seedling stage: one cover of compound fertilizer+one cover of urea; Flowering and fruiting period: one cover of compound fertilizer+one cover of potassium dihydrogen phosphate.
Spring and summer are the most suitable time for pitaya cutting. Choose full-grown branches (the tender stems near the growing point are not suitable), each of which is about 15cm long, and dry them in the sun for 24-48 hours or in the shade for 5-7 days. After the wound is completely healed, cut it to prevent infection and decay of the incision.
The cutting substrate should be loose and breathable, with a sand content of 40% ~ 50% and a substrate humidity of 10% ~ 15%.
In order to increase the organic aggregates and permeability of seedling substrate, decomposed livestock manure can be added appropriately. If the pH value of matrix soil is less than 6.5, plant ash can be added to improve it, but it is not allowed to mix livestock manure with plant ash to prevent ammonia from burning the root system of pitaya. Because the root system of pitaya is mainly attached to the soil surface layer of 3 ~ 6 cm, as long as the soil matrix has good permeability, no fertilization can be applied at the initial stage of seedling raising.
Cut 2 ~ 3 cm deep, and you can't water it immediately after cutting. In the early stage of seedling raising, we should take shelter from rain and sun 12 ~ 15 days, but pay attention to ventilation. Transplanting after 30-40 days when the roots grow to 3-4 cm; It can also grow in situ.
Pitaya grows rapidly and extends 1 ~ 2 cm every day under suitable conditions. Cutting seedlings can bear fruit in the second year, and enter the full fruit stage in the third year.