Goat milk fruit is a local name for Elaeagnus elegans. In the Yunnan, Guizhou and Sichuan areas, the large-leaf Elaeagnus is called "Milk fruit". The small leaves of Elaeagnus are called "goat milk fruit". Among the various varieties of goat's milk fruit across the country, especially the "small round-leaf golden bud" Elaeagnus elegans (also known as "beard bald") from Anxi, Xiamen, Fujian, is more suitable for bonsai. I am one of the Elaeagnus bonsai enthusiasts.

How to cultivate the old piles of goat's milk fruit?

First, master the correct time for digging piles:

Elaeaena belongs to the succulent miscellaneous wood species. When digging out mountain piles, it is most scientific to dig out mountain piles through seasonality and assisted by temperature.

1. Digging piles in winter: In Xiamen, low temperatures rarely occur in winter. The time for digging downhill piles is more flexible. Piles can be dug in winter until around Tomb Sweeping Day. In the south, the temperature is mainly controlled when the temperature is above 15 degrees Celsius. Once the temperature of the pulpy Elaeagnus elegans is higher than 25 degrees Celsius, it is very easy to lose pulp seriously, affecting the survival rate.

2. Digging piles in spring: In areas slightly north of the Yangtze River, the main time for digging piles is in spring. In spring, the temperature rises to 15 to 25 degrees Celsius. You can dig out the mountain piles of Elaeagnus lucidum. Dig piles when the temperature is below 15 degrees Celsius. Low temperatures cannot germinate and will reduce the survival rate.

Second, the method of digging piles:

When digging piles of Elaeagnus elegans, there are very few fibrous roots. They all have one or three strong roots, which are deep and stuck into the soil. Keeping a few fibrous roots on the taproots can greatly improve the survival rate.

1. When digging piles, first clear away the surrounding weeds. Clean up superficial soil. Then shake the rhubarb gently. Predict the location of the root.

2. Dig a small trench with a radius of 20 to 30 centimeters near the base. When digging a trench, if you encounter a root system that grows laterally, cut it short directly.

3. The depth of digging a small trench is about 30 to 40 centimeters (if you encounter a large pile, you can increase the radius of the excavation and deepen the depth of the small trench), and then move closer to the center to form an inverted cone. earth ball. Finally, break off the strong roots that penetrate into the ground.

Third, treatment before planting piles:

Before planting piles of Elaeagnus elegans, the root wound needs to be trimmed. Try to cut the roots in one step. Try to keep the fibrous roots. For large wounds at the root, use a utility knife to trim them until they are smooth and have no burrs. Let the roots dry for about 12 hours, during which time the wound will not be exposed to moisture. Spray the trunk to moisturize it. (If there are large wounds, you don’t need to use rooting agent)

Predict the pile material of Elaeagnus spp. and imagine the outline of the bonsai. Save the branches that need to be shaped. Large branches should be pruned again. Remove leaves from small branches and shorten appropriately. Then remove all branches. Pruning can reduce water and nutrient consumption. Apply wound healing agent to large wounds.

It is necessary to tell you how to deal with small piles here: If the bald piles dug out are relatively small and the root wound is small, you can directly soak them in clean water for 6 hours. Supplement the water loss of the tree caused by low rainfall in winter.

Fourth, the soil for raising piles:

When digging the old piles of Elaeagnus elegans, there will be big wounds. When cultivating piles, it is recommended that you first use plain soil (soil without nutrients such as river sand or red jade soil). Nutrients and bacteria in the soil are biogenic, and it is very easy for large wounds to occur in the root system, causing bacterial infection and affecting the survival rate. When cultivating piles, the main purpose is to induce roots.

River sand does not contain impurities and is clean and sterile, which can reduce the chance of bacterial infection. The loose and breathable river sand allows more oxygen to enter the plant material. The temperature difference between day and night in river sand is relatively large, and a large temperature difference is conducive to inducing new root systems. Planted elegans can be bagged or wrapped with plastic wrap to keep the trunk moist and warm.

Fifth, daily management:

It is recommended that the planted Elaeagnus be properly shaded and maintained in a bright light location for about 2 weeks. After about 2 weeks, the elegans seeds will start to sprout. The new shoots at this time are new shoots that are forced to grow by consuming the nutrients of the tree without the support of roots.

When new shoots appear, increase the light. Under photosynthesis, the growth of roots in the soil can be accelerated.

1. When the first wave of buds grow to about 2 cm, remove the plastic bag on the main stem. Also remove the shade net. The temperature in spring is relatively mild and the sunlight is not very strong. Bald beards can be maintained directly under full sun exposure.

2. The soil for planting Elaeagnus should be 40% wet and 60% dry. Use your hands to form a ball and release it to loosen it. Do not water the roots after planting. Spray the main trunk 2 to 3 times a day to keep the soil slightly moist. After three days, perform a water penetration.

3. When watering in the later stage, according to the dry and wet state of the flower soil, it should be "watered thoroughly if it is not dry or watered". You can continue to spray the main leaves 2 to 3 times a day. After about 1 month, the new buds will dry up. It can be regarded as planting Elaeagnus elegans to survive.

4. The germination ability of Elaeagnus elegans is relatively strong, and new shoots may grow at the main trunk and base, and even at the roots exposed to the soil. The newly planted Elaeagnus must first rely on the weak photosynthesis of the new shoots to assist the growth of the roots. Don't be too anxious about wiping the buds. After the Elaeagnus elegans has been alive for about 50 days, the adventitious buds will be removed.

Summary: When planting Elaeagnus, you should pay attention to the time of digging piles, pay attention to river sand to induce roots, pay attention to water replenishment, and pay attention to the maintenance environment. In order to improve the survival rate of Elaeagnus elegans. About 50 days after planting Elaeagnus elegans, you can apply thin organic fertilizer and water, and apply the fertilizer frequently, once every half month. When the bud points are not in place, you can use gibberellic acid mixed with water about 1000 times after wiping the buds, and use a brush to wipe the budding cortex.