Basic information

Goldfish (20 photos) Although goldfish is an omnivorous fish that has been completely domesticated by humans, it is the same as other fish such as crucian carp. Reasonable and correct feeding can directly affect the growth and development of goldfish, the depth and brightness of color, the appearance of characteristics, plumpness or not, as well as the number of eggs laid, hatchability and disease resistance of goldfish. Therefore, goldfish feed must contain nutritious proteins, fats, carbohydrates, various vitamins and a certain amount of inorganic salts and trace elements. For example: Under the same other conditions, those who can feed enough fresh and live red worms every day will have extremely large growth and development of fish, especially features such as lion heads and blisters (referring to sarcomas and blisters). This may be This is because red worms contain a large amount of animal protein, fat, carbohydrates and other rich nutrients.

Animal feed

Animal feed is goldfish’s favorite and one of the most nutritious feeds. There are many varieties, and the common ones are: 1) Fish bugs (commonly known as red worms and water fleas) are zooplankton that breed in sewage pits, ponds, and rivers. They are the common names for various water fleas. Its size ranges from large to small, like red spider mites. Its body color is blood red and its body is small. It is not only rich in nutrients, but also feeds on phytoplankton, which is beneficial to purifying water quality. Therefore, we often use fresh red spider mites. Goldfish fed with appropriate amounts of insects (meaning not in excess) develop faster than goldfish fed with other alternative feeds, have brighter colors, and have a correspondingly reduced incidence of fish diseases. 2) Daphnia, with a bluish-gray body, (commonly known as Qingbeng). Black, white and three-color goldfish

It belongs to the copepods among crustaceans. Its advantages are that it has strong vitality, swims quickly, and can survive for several days. However, the disadvantage is that it is small in size. If it is used to feed several-year-old fish, it is more difficult to catch them because they swim fast, and the water fleas can also bite small fry. Therefore, when feeding the water fleas, it is best to It's better to scald it with boiling water. 3) Paramecium (commonly known as gray water) It is the common name of several protozoa in plankton. Paramecium, for example, can be cultured on straw and is most suitable for feeding newly hatched fry. Rotifers are single-celled animals (that is, they are composed of many cells), such as Trichoderma rotifers, Water rotifers, Columella rotifers, Alveolar rotifers, etc. 4) Larvae are the larvae of mosquitoes (called blood worms in the south and Youbeng in the north). They are the larvae of chironomid mosquitoes. They are blood red in color, so they are called blood worms. They are rich in nutrients and relatively expensive, so they are not easy to eat. Storage requires refrigeration, and most hobbyists will freeze it directly before feeding it. 5) Water earthworms. There are many types of water earthworms. Water earthworms are the favorite food of goldfish. They are rich in protein, fat and vitamins. They generally live on the surface of fertile rivers or sewer sludge in flowing water. One end extends into the sludge, and the other end swings with the water. They are small, soft, and bright red or dark red. They are easily swallowed by goldfish, but when fed It must be rinsed repeatedly before feeding. If possible, it must be raised for a few days and the water earthworms will spit out the mud before feeding.

Plant feed

Of course, the ideal feed for goldfish is animal feed. However, when animal feed is lacking due to various reasons, plant feed can be an emergency. or life-sustaining supplementary feed. Common ones include turnip and aquatic plants, among which turnip is one of the smallest species among seed plants. The plant body has no roots and is as small as sand and has good nutritional content. The other is small duckweed, which has a filament-like root. Goldfish also eat it when they are hungry. Generally, only larger goldfish can be fed, but do not feed more. Before feeding, carefully check whether there are pests and insect eggs. Or soak it in a low-concentration potassium permanganate solution for a while before feeding, otherwise it is easy to introduce germs and insect pests.

Synthetic feed

To develop a large-scale goldfish breeding industry, fishing for natural bait fish and insects alone cannot meet the needs. In addition to artificially cultivating fish and insects, the production of compound pellet feed must also be developed. Supplying the market can, on the one hand, provide feed sources for farms, and on the other hand, it can also meet the needs of goldfish enthusiasts and families raising and playing goldfish. With artificial feed, it is much more convenient to raise goldfish at home. Compound pellet feed requires complete nutritional ingredients to meet the needs of goldfish growth and development. The main ingredients should include five categories: protein, sugar, fat, inorganic salts and vitamins.

1. Protein is the main component of goldfish’s body. Its function in the body is to grow new tissues and repair old tissues. It is also a component of heat energy supply. There must be enough protein in the bait to promote the rapid growth of goldfish. 2. Sugar is the main substance of heat energy in goldfish’s body and the main feed ingredient for goldfish. 3. Fat is the food that stores the highest amount of heat energy. Its physiological function is the same as that of sugar. It is oxidized in the body to provide energy. Generally speaking, if there is a lack of fat in the feed, goldfish will grow slowly and be small, which will reduce the fish's tolerance to low temperature and hypoxia, and can easily lead to death during winter; too much fat, and the fish will be too fat, will hinder the development of gonads. 4. Inorganic salts are the main elements that make up colored bones, such as calcium phosphate and calcium carbonate. Fish blood and muscles also contain a certain amount of calcium and phosphorus. Feed containing a certain amount of calcium can promote digestion and help the absorption of fat and phosphorus. In addition to obtaining calcium and phosphorus from feed, goldfish can also penetrate calcium and phosphorus from the water into the body through the skin and gills. Goldfish also need trace elements such as iron, copper, magnesium, sodium, potassium, and diamond. Without these elements, they will grow slowly and develop diseases. In order to ensure the normal growth of goldfish, these elements should be included in the feed. 5. Vitamins are also necessary for the growth of goldfish. Long-term lack of vitamins will lead to stunted growth of the fish body, slow growth or complete cessation, and even deformities, and reduced resistance to adverse external environments and various fish diseases. Lack of vitamin A will cause the color fins to break, the fish body pigment will disappear, and the body color will become lighter and less bright; lack of vitamin E will cause the gonads to be underdeveloped or underdeveloped, and the resistance to aquatic fungi will be reduced. In the feed Adding a small amount of vitamin B12 can promote growth.

Correctly grasp the feeding time and method

Whether it is feeding live feed or artificial feed, the following principles must be mastered when feeding goldfish: 1. Feed only as many times a day as 1-2 times, each feeding should be eaten within 1-2 hours. If the weather and water quality are normal, you can appropriately increase the amount of food for fish species with strong vitality. 2. Feeding time: It is better to feed early in spring and summer, usually around 6-7 o'clock in the morning, when the sun begins to hit the fish pond (tank). Feeding time can be slightly later in late autumn and winter, usually around 7-8 o'clock, and feeding can even be delayed to around 10 o'clock in cold winter. But avoid feeding in large quantities in the evening. Even if the fish are obviously looking for food, it is better to feed a small amount around 3 p.m. After November, the water temperature drops significantly, and the appetite of goldfish tends to decrease, so it is not suitable to feed in the evening. 3. As the goldfish grows up, the amount of food should be gradually increased appropriately, but food cannot be blindly fed, especially artificial feed, which should be strictly controlled. For family fish farming, you can divide the daily amount of feed into 1-2 times to avoid feeding too much feed at one time, accumulating in the pond (tank) and damaging the water quality.

Edit this paragraph on fish farming water

The importance of water quality

The senior goldfish farmers have long had the experience of “raising fish first, raising water first”. This shows that the quality of water will directly affect the normal growth and development of goldfish. The purpose of changing the water is to remove dirt (garbage, fish feces, remaining feed, and old impurities) in the water, keep the water clean, adjust the water temperature, and increase oxygen in the water, thereby stimulating the growth and development of goldfish.

Understanding fish farming water

If you want to raise goldfish well, you must have a preliminary understanding of fish farming water: 1. Raw water refers to tap water that has just been released but has not been dried or processed. well water. The water temperature is often quite different from the water temperature in fish ponds (tanks), and it contains more chlorine. This kind of water is extremely harmful to goldfish. 2. New water refers to tap water, well water, or spring water that has been left to settle for about 2-3 days in the sun, and is clean water that is equal to or similar to the water temperature of the fish pond (tank). 3. Old water is the dirty water containing feces and dirt at the bottom of the fish pond (tank). Including the feeding water in the pool (cylinder) that has not been changed for a long time. 4. Old water is the general name for the clean and tender green, green, old green or green-brown water in the fish pond (tank). Among them, tender green water is the best. There are more green algae floating in the old water, which are also good supplementary feed for goldfish. This kind of water has less putrefactive and decomposed organic matter and more dissolved oxygen. Fish are often raised in tender green and clean old water. The fish raised have the strongest appetite, strong body, bright color and rapid development.

5. Returning to clear water If you find that the old green water in the original pool (tank) suddenly turns into clear water, and many green algae settle at the bottom of the tank, this phenomenon is called returning to clear water. This kind of water can easily cause fish diseases and needs to be completely replaced.

Water changing method

(1) Under normal water changing conditions, especially in hot summer, you only need to insist on removing the feces and dirt at the bottom of the fish pond (tank) every day along with the old water. Water, use a hose to gently suck out 1/10-1/5, remove dust and floating feces from the water surface, and then slowly inject isothermal new water along the wall of the pool (cylinder) to keep the water quality clean. This water changing method is not easy to harm the fish body, is simple and safe, and is most suitable for fish farmers in home fish tanks or small ponds. A goldfish that shoots, kicks, and dances

(2) Partial water change This water change method is mainly performed in two situations. One situation is that in the hot summer and early autumn, the feeding water in the fish pond (tank) has been changed for only a few days, and the water color turns green very quickly (due to the low feed amount). When the water quality is still clean, in order to prevent Goldfish have permed their tails, so you can fish out all the goldfish in the pool (tank), then turn the water in the pool (tank) in a spiral shape, wait for a while, and then remove the dirt and debris in the center of the pool (tank). Use a rubber tube to suck out 1/3-1/2 of the water, then inject isothermal and equal amounts of new water, and then fish the goldfish into the original pond (tank) and raise it. Another situation is that the water in the pool (tank) has only been changed for a few days, and the water color is still good. However, due to excessive feeding that day, emergency measures must be taken when floating heads appear. The method of changing the water is the same as mentioned above. If it is a large fish pond in a fishing ground, there is no need to fish out the goldfish. Instead, use a folding net to surround the fish. Then use a fishing net to gently rotate the water in the pond for tens of seconds. Wait for the water to stand still for a while and then start. Slowly release the water from the drainage gate or use a straw to suck out the excess fish, worms, feces and old water in the center of the pool (tank), or use a fishing net to remove the excess fish and worms from the center, and then put out 1/4-1/2 of the water. old water, and finally inject the same amount of new water at the same temperature. This method is commonly used in fish farms or families as a first aid method when too much food is fed. (3) Complete water change. This water change is often combined with turning over the pond (tank) and selecting juvenile or adult fish at the same time. It is often used when the water quality is seriously deteriorated or the moss is too long and the fish are too dense. There are two specific methods: 1. When there is no free pool, you have to fish all the goldfish into a basin or put the cage into the water of a neighboring pond to temporarily raise it, and add an oxygenating head to the basin or cage to increase oxygen. Then, brush off the moss on the wall of the original pool, rinse it thoroughly, re-inject new isothermal water, let it sit for a while, and then fish the fish into the original pool (tank) after the water temperature becomes equal. 2. If there is a free pool and new water, just put all the goldfish into the basin or cage, select and handle them separately, and then move the goldfish into the new pool after the water temperature of the pool is equal. Breeding in water. This method of water change should pay special attention to the water temperature, and it is best to do it before 9 o'clock in the morning on a sunny day. However, this method is generally only suitable for adult fish or larger juvenile fish, and should not be used for larvae. If conditions permit, before completely changing the water, you can first fill the spare pool (cylinder) with water, and then fish the fish directly into the spare pond (cylinder). In this way, the water temperature changes little, the fish can easily adapt to the new environment, and the fish can avoid being squeezed in the basin or cage. This water change method is generally performed every half month or so in spring and autumn. In summer, when the weather is hot and the water temperature is as high as 28°C or above, the water color is very easy to become thick and the water quality is very easy to be turbid, the water should be completely changed once every 4-7 days. In winter, when the water temperature drops to about 4°C, goldfish activities slow down and their appetite decreases. The water quality is not easy to deteriorate. Generally, all water is not changed unless there are special circumstances.

Edit this paragraph to identify male and female goldfish

Mainly distinguish male and female goldfish from the following aspects: (1) Differences in external appearance: (1) Differences in body shape: Male goldfish are generally Slightly longer in body shape, female goldfish have shorter and rounder bodies. During the pregnancy period, the abdomen of female fish is enlarged compared to that of male fish. (2) Differences in caudal peduncle: Male fish are slightly thicker than female fish. (3) Differences in pectoral fins: Careful observation shows that the male fish is slightly pointed and longer, and the first spine of the pectoral fin is thicker and harder; the female fish is short and round, and the first spine of the pectoral fin is not too hard.

(4) Differences in genitals: Looking up from the belly, the male fish’s genitals are small, narrow, and concave; the female fish’s genitals are large, slightly round, and convex outward. (2) Differences in color: Male and female goldfish have slight differences in body color. Male fish are generally brightly colored, while female fish are slightly lighter. During the reproductive and development period, male fish are more brightly colored. (3) Feeling and movement: Gently hold the fish's abdomen with your hand, and feel an obvious hard line on the abdomen of the male fish with your middle finger and ring finger, while the abdomen of the female fish is softer. When walking by the fish pond, I stamped my feet and observed. The male fish swims fast and agile, while the female fish moves slower. (4) Star chasing: As the temperature rises, goldfish will have a second characteristic during the spawning period - star chasing. This is the easiest and most accurate time to identify the gender of goldfish, and it is also the easiest method to master. The star chasers of male fish appear on the first spine of the pectoral fin and the edge of the gill cover. Often there are star chasers on each ray of the entire pectoral fin. The ones at the front end are obvious, and the ones at the back can only be observed carefully. This kind of rough white dot is star chasing. Using the above identification methods, you must also rely on many years of breeding experience and daily careful observation to accurately identify the male and female goldfish. Feeding Precautions

1. Select healthy goldfish. Healthy fish swim in the middle and lower layers of the water body, forage for food, swim naturally and leisurely, and have clear, transparent and elegant tail fins. 2. Don’t rush into the tank after buying the goldfish. Put the plastic bag containing the fish into the fish tank for 10 to 20 minutes before opening it. Let the water in the tank flow back into the bag several times, and gradually mix with the original water in the bag, so that the goldfish Gradually adapt to water temperature and water quality. If there is light, turn it off. Fish are quieter in the dark and less easily frightened. 3. Do not change the water temperature drastically. When purchasing fish, you should pay attention to the water temperature in the aquarium store and the water temperature in your fish tank. The deviation should not be too large. Generally, it is allowed within 4℃. 4. Do not change too much water at one time. New water must be stored for a day or two first. The purpose is to remove part of the chlorine in the water and also to bring the temperature of the new water and the old water close to each other.

Edit this paragraph on the prevention and treatment of goldfish diseases

Overview

To treat sick fish, you must know the source and condition of the disease. If you lack experience, it will be difficult to accurately judge the disease. . The most basic approach is to classify the disease and then implement appropriate treatment. When it is impossible to know what kind of disease a goldfish is suffering from, a broader treatment approach is adopted, using drugs with a wider range of properties. If a goldfish in the tank is found to be sick, the sick fish should be moved to another isolation treatment tank immediately to prevent other goldfish from being infected. The treatment methods for goldfish diseases are introduced below:

1. Bacterial tail rot and fin rot

Tail rot and fin rot caused by bacteria are extremely contagious. The fin rays begin, and then the body rots to death. This type of fin rot has two symptoms. The first type starts from the edge of the fin and then spreads inwards. The second type starts from the central part of the fin and spreads in all directions. The affected area turns white and eventually falls off. Goldfish's body resistance will weaken after being transported or spawning, and they are most susceptible to the disease at this time. Once a sick fish is discovered, it must be isolated immediately and treated with antibiotics or fentanyl and other chemicals. When the symptoms of fin rot appear slowly, the treatment is to change part of the tank water, clean the filter and add a little salt to the tank, and stop feeding for a few days. The function of salt therapy is to increase the specific gravity of water, change the osmotic pressure in the water, and kill bacteria and other pathogens through changes in osmosis. You can also directly use the commercially available Sera antibacterial and insecticide, Amerifencer, Queen Whale antibacterial agent, Queenwhale antibacterial agent and AZ00 antibacterial agent.

2. Bacterial gill disease

The first symptom of goldfish infected with bacterial gill disease is loss of appetite, often stopping under the water, and rapid breathing. If the gill cover is lifted, At the trailing edge, incomplete strontium wires that appear white will be seen. Especially in crowded fish tanks, when the water quality deteriorates, goldfish are most susceptible to this disease and it is highly contagious, so sick fish must be isolated. The methods and medicines used to treat this disease are the same as those for bacterial tail rot and fin rot, but salt needs to be added to the water (two grams of table salt per 100 liters of water) to reduce the loss of goldfish body fluids from the rotten strontium wires to the outside of the fish. Causes goldfish to die of dehydration.

Fungi can also cause gill rot, so water quality must be improved to control the disease. The filter can remove suspended particles, prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi, and keep the tank water clean. Therefore, strengthening the filtration system can prevent the occurrence of gill disease.

3. Scale disease

In aquariums, it is often found that goldfish have scales that protrude and fall off due to disease. The scales of most diseased fish will almost all stand up, and only a few diseased fish will have partial scales standing up. If the body surface of the diseased fish is rubbed, the loose scales will fall off one after another. The pathogen causing this disease is currently unknown, but it often occurs in winter and summer when water temperatures are low. The mortality rate of this disease is very high. If detected early, antibiotic treatment, such as Ameriprofen and AZ00 antibacterial agent, can also cure the diseased fish. The disease is not contagious, but caring for sick fish is quite troublesome.

4. Red spot disease

Sick fish will have obvious red spots on their sides and abdomen, which is their biggest feature. If there is a large increase in bacteria in the water, the goldfish's skin will be damaged and filled with blood. At this time, the tank water should be changed immediately, and the disease can be cured without medication. Severely sick fish need to be isolated and treated with antibiotics.

5. Bacterial diseases

Goldfish are cold-blooded animals, and their body temperature changes with the water temperature. When the water temperature drops in winter, the resistance of fish bodies also weakens, so bacterial infections are common. Sick goldfish will develop white cotton-like objects on their bodies, especially the sarcomas on their heads, which are most susceptible to infection. The tank water should be kept as clean as possible. Applying methylene blue dye to the affected area can speed up the recovery. You can also use malachite green solution to treat the diseased fish. Soak the sick fish in a drug solution containing 0.2 grams in 100 liters of water until it recovers. You can also directly use Sera Bacteria and Insecticide, Queen Whale Bacteria and AZ00 Bacteria and Bacteria for treatment.

6. White spot disease

This disease is caused by protozoa. The pathogen is called white spot parasite. It will penetrate deep into the cells of the skin and reproduce asexually to form white spots. Small punctate cysts. The whole body of goldfish suffering from this disease is covered with white spots. Each white spot cyst contains many young white spot worms. The white spot worms absorb the nutrients of the fish tissue and grow up and increase in number. Later, they break out of the cyst and swim to the goldfish. In the water, it returns to the fish body and invades the skin, forming more small white spots. In the early stages of the disease, sick fish will rub their bodies against hard objects in the hope of removing nasty pathogens. If not treated immediately, the sick fish's body will quickly be severely damaged and die. When the white-spotted worms invade the fish body, drug treatment will not be effective. Only when the small white-spotted worms reproduce in the fish body and new individuals swim into the water can the pharmaceuticals kill them. The treatment method is to use a malachite green solution with a concentration of 0.01% and soak the sick fish for several days until the white spots completely disappear. The malachite green solution is very toxic and should not be used in excess, otherwise the goldfish will also be poisoned, or use Commercially available Sera White Spot Treatment Agent, American White Spot Treatment Agent, Queen Whale White Spot Treatment Agent, and AZ00 White Spot Treatment Agent are available for treatment. Physical treatment methods for white spot disease and the use of drugs to treat goldfish white spot disease are difficult for novices to master, and the treatment effect is not good. One recommended physical treatment method is that according to the characteristics of white spot pathogens that can withstand water temperatures of 30 degrees Celsius, use a heater to gradually heat the water temperature to 35 degrees Celsius very slowly and keep it for 3 days. Then gradually return to the normal water temperature and replace it with new water. Within a week, all the protozoa were shed. This method is simple and easy to operate, has few side effects, and has very good treatment effect.

7. Fish lice disease

Fish lice disease: Fish lice are parasitic crustaceans that live on the body of goldfish most of the time. Only the larvae and adults lay eggs. Only later does it flow in the water. There are two suckers on the ventral surface of the fish louse, which are used to attach to the body of the goldfish. The mouth is needle-shaped and is used to penetrate the fish body and suck blood, causing the affected area to bleed and turn red, making it susceptible to bacterial infection. Unless a goldfish is infested with a large number of fish lice, it is unlikely to die from the disease. Organophosphorus insecticides are effective against fish lice, but they are also harmful to goldfish. The best way is to use sharp pliers to remove the fish lice one by one, or use Sera fish pond insecticide, American insecticide, and American insecticide. Treatment with flukes special effects tablets, Queen's Whale antiparasitic agent, and AZ00 antiparasitic agent.

8. Fluke diseases

There are many kinds of flukes that attack the skin, strontium and other organs of goldfish. The more common ones are cutaneous flukes and strontium flukes. When a goldfish is attacked by the above-mentioned fluke, the body will convulse, the appetite will be reduced, and the swimming will be sluggish. If the gills are severely infected, the goldfish will suffocate because it cannot absorb oxygen. The treatment methods for adult fish and juvenile fish are different. Adult fish can be put into a dilute formalin solution for 30 minutes, while juvenile fish can be treated with a concentrated salt solution instead of the formalin solution. The parasitic fluke will be killed or stimulated and separated from the fish. body, or treat it with the commercially available Sera bacterial antiparasitic agent, American antiparasitic agent and fluke removal tablets, Queen's Whale antiparasitic agent, and AZ00 antiparasitic agent.

9. Hypoxia

Goldfish absorb dissolved oxygen in the water bath to breathe and survive. Each liter of water should have five milligrams of dissolved oxygen, otherwise the goldfish will be unable to absorb it. Sufficient oxygen will cause suffocation. A slight lack of oxygen will cause the goldfish to float to the surface to breathe. Therefore, an air pump should be used to inflate the water into the water to ensure that the goldfish receives sufficient oxygen.

10. Swim bladder disease

Goldfish suffering from this disease cannot maintain the balance of their bodies. Sometimes they will do somersaults like an onion and end up either sinking to the bottom or floating on the surface. . Goldfish with short bodies and enlarged abdomens are most commonly affected by this disease. The sick fish also have a normal appetite and can survive for a long time, but they lose their ornamental value. There is no cure for this disease. The only way to prevent it is to prevent the water temperature from rising or falling rapidly.

11. Goldfish Saprolegniasis

Saprolegniasis often infects injured tissues and dead eggs on the body surface, forming a gray-white cotton-like covering, also known as cotton wool. disease or spigotosis. Also known as skin mold or white hair disease, it is one of the fungal diseases of aquatic fish. There are more than ten kinds of pathogens that have been found to cause this disease, among which the most common ones are Saprolegnia and Saprolegnia. The disease is caused by fungi parasitizing the body surface of fish, mainly the Saprolegnia and Paecilomyces genera of the fungi phylum Phycetes, class Saprolegnia, order Saprolegniaceae, and family Saprolegniaceae. Saprolegnia is widely found in freshwater or brackish water and moist soil around the world. It is a common mold that grows saprophytically on dead organic matter. It mainly includes Saprolegniales, peronosporales and Leptomitales, among which Saprolegnia is the most common, are most suitable for growth at 10 to 15°C. Above 25°C, the reproductive capacity of zoospores in each species weakens and they are less susceptible to infection. Trout fishing occurs nearly year-round. The occurrence of saprolegnia is mainly due to secondary infection caused by emergency. The surface tissue of fish is injured due to crowding, movement or other adverse environmental factors. The saprolegnia spores in the water wait for the opportunity to attach to the necrotic tissue. It begins to germinate and form hyphae. In addition to parasitizing necrotic tissue, hyphae can also spread and invade nearby normal tissues, secrete digestive enzymes to decompose surrounding tissues, and penetrate the dermis and penetrate deep into muscles, causing necrosis and disintegration of skin and muscles. The hyphae on the surface extend outward to form a cotton-like covering, and form sporangia at the end, releasing zoospores into the water and spreading everywhere through the water. Symptoms: 1. A gray-white cotton-like covering forms on the infected site. 2. The lesions appear round in the early stage and become irregular patches in the later stage. In severe cases, the skin is damaged and the muscles are exposed. , the gill tissue will also be invaded and infected, causing death.