1, from the appearance of the back of the armor. Wild snapper armor back clean and smooth, thin and uniform skin, waxy sense of light, can be hidden armor corridor. The domesticated turtle armor back skin is slightly thick, warts rough and no light texture, like toad skin is not easy to see the armor corridor.

2, from the back of the armor color. Wild turtle has gray-black, yellow, brown bottom black spot color, etc., while the domesticated turtle is more black in green, yellow with green, green moss color. (This is still quite obvious if you look at the comparison, the wild color is deep)

3, from the body shape appearance. Wild snapper due to the long-term natural state of hard work for food, the shape of the body is proud of healthy, slightly flattened, tight muscles. And the domesticated turtle on the show body Yong swollen, fat and clumsy, muscle flaccidity.

4, against the pressure of the abdominal armor. Wild snapper abdominal cartilage elastic strength, with a finger against the pressure rebound force. The domesticated turtle abdominal cartilage elasticity is weak, with a finger against the pressure, feel soft collapse, rebound powerless.

Expanded information:

Artificial feeding of snappers:

1, bait table placement and cleaning Bait table is best placed in the pool around the pool side, and with the water surface at an angle of 30 to 45 degrees. The bait table is best placed on the edge of the pond around the breeding pool, and with the water surface at an angle of 30 to 45 degrees, which is conducive to the snapper to find food and avoid interference. The bait table and its surroundings should be cleaned with a disinfectant solution with little irritation and a disinfected brush before each feeding, and disinfected once every 3 days.

2, the production and placement of bait The amount of fresh material added is generally 10% to 40%. When using fresh material, it must be sterilized, cleaned and used now to avoid spoilage. The feeding should be in the form of feeding, and the bait should be 2~

3 centimeters away from the surface of the water. Snappers are timid, feeding should minimize its interference. The amount of feeding to 1 ~ 1.5 hours to eat up as a standard, the remaining bait should be collected in a timely manner, for its use. The feeding time in the high temperature season should be finished before sunrise and start feeding at sunset.

3, water quality regulation Breeding water should be regularly changed sewage, each time the amount of water change to no more than 1 / 3 appropriate, if conditions using micro-flow water culture will be better. In the breeding process, the regular use of chlorine dioxide preparation 0.5 ~ 1ppm;

Bleach 2 ~ 3ppm, strong chlorine essence 1 ~ 2ppm, quicklime 15 ~ 40ppm whole pool disinfection, 2 ~ 3 days after the application of medicine, the whole pool of sprinkling 5ppm or so of photosynthesizing bacteria preparation, which can play a role in regulating the water, 1 ~ 2 times a month can be.

4, the surface of the water planting green, build sun back platform in the pond from the bait platform about 1 meter around a 1.5 meters long and wide frame, planting water hyacinth. Water hyacinth root system is developed, can absorb harmful substances in the water and play a role in water regulation, but also conducive to the snapper hide, sun back, cool. Pond side slope less breeding pond should be built in the pool sun back platform.

5, regular inspection of the pond, timely removal of sick and dead snappers Inspection of the pond is in order to understand the snapper feeding, growth activities, diseases and pond water quality, facilities and other conditions. The dead snapper should be buried or incinerated in time, and the sick snapper should be isolated and treated in time.