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Why are the zongzi in Jiaxing so famous?
Jiaxing Zongzi, a famous specialty in Jiaxing, is a traditional famous spot in Jiaxing with a long history. Jiaxing Zongzi is famous for its waxy but not paste, fat but not greasy, fragrant and delicious, and moderate salty and sweet. Especially fresh meat dumplings are the most famous. Jiaxing Zongzi is loved by tourists because of its delicious taste, convenient carrying and eating, and is known as "Oriental fast food". Jiaxing Zongzi has a long history. Six or seven thousand years ago, our ancestors gave birth to Majiabang culture, the representative of the early Neolithic culture in Taihu Lake basin in the lower reaches of the Yangtze River, which is one of the sources of the ancient civilization of the Chinese nation and one of the earliest origins of rice cultivation in China. Since the Han and Tang Dynasties, Jiaxing has developed into the most important rice-growing area in the history of China, and is known as the "granary in the world". Tang Lihan said in "Jiaxing's Political Achievements in Reclaiming Fields": "Jiahe is a good place, and Jianghuai is healthy; Jiahe apologized, and Jianghuai was embarrassed. " (See the Records of Jiaxing in the Qing Dynasty, which records "Tang Li Han's Achievements in Reclaiming Farmland in Jiaxing") It is mentioned in Yaoguang Xu, the magistrate of Jiaxing in the Qing Dynasty, that/kloc-in the middle of the 9th century, there were varieties of glutinous rice produced in Jiaxing, such as white shells, black dates, chicken feet and shrimps. At the same time, Jiaxing is also an important commercial pig production base in China, with high yield and quality of broilers and fresh eggs. These rich and high-quality raw materials of agricultural and sideline products have created very favorable conditions for the development of various kinds of rice dumplings, which is also an important factor that later formed the unique quality of Wufangzhai rice dumplings. As a kind of folk food, the history of zongzi's spread in Jiaxing can be traced back to the Ming Dynasty at the latest. Ming Dynasty's "Wanli Xiushui County Records" has a cloud: "Dragon Boat Festival stickers hang Ai Jiao millet to drink Pu yellow wine, and women draw it as a human figure, which is called a healthy person, and the young one is tied with colorful ropes." (See Ming Dynasty's "Wanli Xiushui County Records") Ming Dynasty's "Chongzhen Jiaxing County Records" Volume 15 says: "The fifth day is the Duanyang Festival, where the herbs are harvested first and the corn is eaten." (See Ming Chongzhen's Jiaxing County Records). Moreover, with the inheritance and development of folk customs, the production skills of zongzi are becoming more and more mature. "Yi Ya's Legacy" in Book115 (Shanghai Ancient Books Publishing House 1995 edition) in Ming Dynasty (written by Han Yi [Ming]). "Another method: Ai Xiang Zongzi is wrapped in mugwort leaves soaked in rice. Anyone who cooks Zongzi must use rice and firewood ash to pour juice, and some lime is also useful. Those who cook it want to be fragrant in Julia." By the Qing Dynasty, Jiaxing folk custom of eating zongzi on Qingming Festival and Dragon Boat Festival was more specific and rich. In the Qing Dynasty, Xiang Yingwei, Wang Shou and Wu Shoufu added a cloud to "Miscellaneous Knowledge of Ancient Crops": "On the Qingming Day, wicker was inserted into the household, and the young children were decorated with willow leaves. The popular competition is to go to the tomb to sweep the tomb a few days ago, and Wufangzhai burns paper money; The villagers gather together and divide the corners. " "In the middle of the afternoon, cinnabar exorcism was posted between the beams, and the bottles were used for sunflower and mugwort leaves, and calamus realgar wine was drunk at noon. Boudoir people make toad bags, garlic gourds, golden spiders, silk tigers, hairpin beams and healthy human symbols; In the city, gongs and drums are screened, and black-faced Zhong Kui and red-bearded Tianshi are jumped; Nanhu Guanjingdu. " "[Shouan] is an eclipse of the sun, and the proverb says,' You can't send cold clothes without eating Dragon Boat Festival dumplings'". Volume 3 says: "Cold Food Festival, there are green dumplings and grey dumplings. Villagers make cocoons, which are shaped like cocoons to pray for silkworms. Long summer Festival has malt balls; Dragon boat festival has dragon boat festival dumplings; There are scorpions and oil piles on Tanabata; There are vegetarian moon cakes in Mid-Autumn Festival; Chongyang has chestnut cakes with small red flags on all sides; There are dumplings and red bean rice in the twelfth lunar month; The new year is made of rice cakes, ingots and peaches. " (See pages 8-9 and 32 of "Miscellaneous Knowledge of Ancient Crops".) Until the end of the Qing Dynasty, almost every household in urban and rural areas in Jiaxing had to make zongzi every New Year, Tomb-Sweeping Day and Dragon Boat Festival. Not only do our family members serve as seasonal food, but also as gifts to relatives and friends, and even become snacks for ordinary people to eat every day. In many towns, shops specializing in selling zongzi have appeared. "Miscellaneous knowledge of ancient crops" Volume 2 says: "[Blessed] There are four gates in Hecheng, and the scenery is different. There is an old saying,' rice feet at the north gate, big zongzi at the south gate, beggars at the west gate, and airs at the east gate.' Gaibei city is heading for many meters; Nanshi is very short, and there are no big shops, only porridge cakes are small in operation, and a certain corner millet is the largest, and the country people compete for it. "(See page 25 of" Miscellaneous Knowledge of Ancient Crops ") It can be seen that at that time, Zongzi had become a popular food among the people. In addition to the traditional customs, it has an important influence on the spread of rice dumplings in Jiaxing, and the long and splendid dim sum culture in Jiaxing has also promoted the development of rice dumplings making skills. Jiaxing Zongzi is deeply influenced by the production skills of "Jiahu Fine Point" tea. In the middle of the Ming Dynasty, Soochow and Zhejiang were rich in food and luxurious, and the varieties of tea and food in Huzhou, Jiaxing were rich and exquisite, which was called "Jiahu Fine Point" and famous in the south of the Yangtze River. Zhou Zuoren's article "Talking about Dim Sum in the North and South" says: "There are two commonly used words on dim sum signs, which I want to borrow and use here. It seems appropriate. The north can be called' official tea food' and the south is' fine point in Jiahu Lake' ..." By the end of the Qing Dynasty, there were countless varieties of tea food, and Zongzi was one of them.