Shen Guiyou

The so-called "Beijing-Soviet cuisine" refers to the local cuisine of Jinling, which has been sought after by the famous aristocrats and the upper class in the Republic of China from the period of the Six Dynasties until the Republic of China. Here the "Beijing", that is, Nanjing is the Six Dynasties and the early Ming Dynasty Kyoto; "Su" refers to the Qing Dynasty Nanjing is the capital of Jiangsu Province. The "big dish" is to describe the Jinling cuisine has a noble, elegant, gorgeous, generous characteristics. In this way, we can know that the so-called Beijing-Suzhou cuisine is Nanjing cuisine or Jinling cuisine generation name. Historically, Beijing-Soviet cuisine was composed of governmental cuisine, marketplace cuisine, folk cuisine, halal cuisine, vegetarian cuisine and boat cuisine. When Nanjing cuisine appeared, there are different opinions, some people think that it first appeared in the Spring and Autumn Period, and some say that it appeared in the Three Kingdoms Period. Nanjing is located at the crossroads of the north and south, Jiangnan fish and rice country, convenient land and water transportation, trade and commerce, affluent and prosperous, for the formation of Nanjing cuisine laid a material foundation. The "Republic of China dishes" are the classics of Nanjing cuisine, with representative works such as roasted fresh bamboo shoots, pigeon eggs with ladybird, the first dish under the sun, casserole stewed vegetable nucleus, canned meat, stewed chicken, etc. The "Qinhuai snacks" are the most popular in Nanjing, and the most popular in China. "Qinhuai snacks" is the perfect match of Nanjing cuisine, also has a thousand years of history. Nanjing folk traditional dishes on behalf of the Golden Age dishes, also known as assorted dishes.

Nanjing is known as the ancient capital of six dynasties and ten dynasties, has long been the political, economic and cultural center of southern China, with well-developed land and water transportation, and is the center of the Yangtze River Basin, the culinary development of the natural sense of reason. Nanjing since ancient times because of its geographic location determines the Nanjing food is a mixture of north and south, east and west. Nanjing is rich in produce, there were many for the local unique culinary resources, such as: head small, back black, thick meat of the Longchi crucian carp; short stems, leaf fat short feet yellow bok choy; meat tender lake cooked duck; Wulongtan's blue fish; Zhongshan's Yunwu Tea; Nanxiang's thin-skinned pig; Yangtze River swordfish, anchovies ...... these resources are produced in the outskirts of the city, some of the right in the city, providing unique conditions for making Beijing-Soviet cuisine. Before the "Eight Cuisines" we are talking about today was proposed, the four major cuisines recognized for the chef community were "Sichuan, Lu, Su and Yue". For example, the most famous restaurants at that time were Liu Hua Chun, Green Willow House, Ma Xiang Xing, Yong He Yuan, Old Canton, Da San Yuan, Qu Yuan Restaurant, Tong Qing Lou they corresponded to the style of each cuisine. Su needless to say, is the local cuisine, in addition to Zhejiang Shao, Shanghai dishes are also counted among them, while the Sichuan cuisine to do Hunan cuisine Qu Yuan Restaurant is the most famous, to do the most famous Cantonese cuisine is the old Guangdong, the big three yuan of these Cantonese restaurants, while the Lu cuisine contains Shandong, Beijing, Tianjin and other places of the dishes, with the same Qing Lou as the representative.

Republic of China period, Jinling cuisine development to the peak, Nanjing as the capital city, officials, eunuchs, Huagai clouds gathered, merchants and shopkeepers, abundant goods, all kinds of "noble", tend to rush. The population of Nanjing multiplied. Despite years of war, but the city is still singing and dancing, drunkenness, so that the Nanjing snacks unusual development, and left a lot of celebrities and snacks story. Chiang Kai-shek, Dai Jitao, Kong Xiangxi, Chiang Ching-kuo and Zhang Xueliang were all big fans of Jinling cuisine. During the Republic of China period, Nanjing's local restaurants were clustered in the area around Fuzimiao. There were First Spring, Haidong Spring, *** and Spring, Old Wanquan, Changsong East No., Guest House, Dazhongjie, Old Baoxin and Jinling Spring. There are also Liu Hua Chun, Green Willow House, Ma Xiang Xing, Yong He Yuan, Old Guangdong, Da San Yuan, Qu Yuan Restaurant, Tong Qing Lou, and other restaurants representing various styles of cuisine also use their own specialties to woo diners. In order to show the difference between the local Jinling cuisine and the foreign dishes, the local chefs call themselves the "Beijing-Soviet Gang". Because of Chiang Kai-shek, Soong May-ling and other dignitaries recognized and loved Jinling cuisine in the Republic of China as the official food, do very "big", this "big" refers to the positive, to take the stage. At the same time, both take the characteristics of the four directions, to adapt to the taste of the eight parties, pay attention to the seven Zi seven flavors, fresh, rotten, crispy, tender, crispy, thick, fat, sour, sweet, bitter, spicy, salty, fragrant, smelly. Salt-based, salty and sweet, sour and not astringent, bitter and fragrant, spicy and not strong, crisp and not raw, thick and fragrant, fat and not greasy, light and not thin. Traditional dishes include canned meat, stewed raw knock, vegetarian mixed vegetables, stewed vegetable core, eight treasures a pine, pine bacon, flat large meat crisp, etc. On February 22, 2013, "Beijing-Soviet cuisine cooking skills" was officially selected as Nanjing intangible cultural heritage list. In order to restore the "old taste of Nanjing", culinary masters to collect resources, restore the taste, paid a lot of labor, and now in many restaurants in Nanjing, ordinary diners can also eat these classic dishes. Serious Nanjing cuisine, and Huaiyang cuisine is a little close, the latter's status is getting higher and higher, simply a big hit, a hundred times the value of the former, but not many people remember, see the decline of Nanjing cuisine, is indeed a fact. But go back eighty years, Nanjing cuisine had also flourished for a while, known as the "Beijing-Soviet cuisine", the "Beijing" word, can be understood as the old capital of the Ming Dynasty, but also related to the Republic of China. 1999, Zhang Xueliang's 90th birthday, Hu Changling in the "Chinese cooking - Nanjing Series" wrote an article on the "Chinese cooking - Nanjing Series". When Zhang Xueliang celebrated his 90th birthday in 1999, Hu Changling also wrote an article in Chinese Cuisine - Nanjing Album, recalling the banquet with the title "Major General, do you still remember the "Jinling Spring" banquet? Later, the "double-roasted bird's-fin banquet" was known as the "Major General's Banquet" by later generations.

Jinling cuisine is based on aquatic raw materials, focusing on freshness, fine knife skills, good use of stewing, stewing, baking, simmering and other cooking methods, and the taste of peace. Beijing-Soviet cuisine (Nanjing cuisine) master Hu Changling master in his "Jinling delicacies," said: "General delicacies, such as bird's nest, shark's fin, bear's paw, sea cucumber, monkey head, fish maw and so on raw materials, appear in the dishes, chefs in order to highlight its expensive, illustrious, often a whole block, large pieces of the head of the modeling, cooking methods are also steak, burning, braising, braising, braising, steaming, mostly, generally without destroying the raw material, the cooking method is not to destroy the raw material. Most, generally do not destroy the inherent form of raw materials.

The flavor of Beijing-Soviet cuisine is based on the daily habits of Nanjing people. Local freshwater aquatic products and fresh seasonal vegetables are the main ingredients. Nanjing people can't eat without soup and water, so Nanjing cuisine has a long history of stewing and stewing. For example, stewed raw knock, stewed chicken, stewed vegetable core, stewed fish crisp, stewed lion's head and other famous dishes, all this logic. Another big habit of Nanjing people to eat vegetables is that they like crispy and rotten." The same eating greens, Guangdong people only ten seconds in the pot, to eat the crispiness; Nanjing people eat greens, especially the winter of the dwarf chrysanthemum yellow, eat in the mouth clicking, clicking, clicking, clicking, clicking, clicking, clicking, clicking, clicking, clicking, clicking, clicking, clicking. "Beijing-Soviet cuisine" in a major technique also came - the use of "缔子". "缔子" that is, the result of different degrees of stirring of the meat mush, in the Beijing-Soviet cuisine, but also divided into three kinds: "hard connecting". Thickness is relatively large, good to make shape, suitable for frying, deep-frying, burning. "Soft". More soft, suitable for steaming and boiling. It makes both shape and flavor. "Tender". On the other hand, it is mostly used in dishes made by steaming, which are inconvenient to make shapes and are mainly eaten for its texture. Highlight the original flavor while making it more tender.

"Slow", is "Beijing-Soviet cuisine" innate characteristics. There is another nickname for "Jing-Su Da Cai", "Kung Fu Cai". This expression probably began in the middle of the Qing Dynasty, but later because of some special social reasons Nanjing people's eating culture and the whole country like the people from "slow" to "fast" again. However, in recent years, there are more and more consumers, including silver-haired old couples, some of the better quality of life of young people, and a large number of gourmets from around the world to find the taste of the gourmets deliberately run to the Jiangsu Restaurant in Xiaguan, Hexi Tongqing Lou, and the Grand Palace of the Central Hotel, and a lot of sprouting up to specialize in Republic of China cuisine, Beijing-Suzhou cuisine in the name of the network on the wind and clouds of the net red store to taste! Cuisine, so that many of these restaurants in today's food environment, actually often a hard to find, not three or five days in advance to book, simply can not sit down state. This is actually from another level reflects the Beijing-Soviet cuisine nowadays is loved and sought after by more and more consumers. Because the Beijing-Soviet cuisine in the selection of materials and cooking methods with tender and oily, crispy in the mouth, mellow and thick soup, fragrant, etc., it can often "make the most civilized diners, in front of these dishes will not care about manners, frequently raise their chopsticks. Through this series of social phenomena, we are surprised to find that, with the increasing improvement of the quality of life, people's demand for exquisite dishes is growing, "Beijing-Soviet cuisine" this once lost to the speed of the cultural heritage; but in the decades of dismal operation, to defeat the time, return to normal, will gradually be more and more high-level and high-taste diners like. This also corresponds to the Confucius "food is not too fine, chopping is not too fine," the theory of food.

So, today, let's take a look at what specialties are available in Jinling cuisine.

Salt water duck is a famous specialty of Nanjing, has a long history of more than a thousand years. Nanjing salt water duck can be made all year round, marinated in a short period of time, now do now sell, now buy now eat, should not be stored for a long time. This duck has white skin and tender meat, fat but not greasy, fresh and flavorful, with fragrant, crispy and tender characteristics. Every year before and after the Mid-Autumn Salt Water Duck color and taste the best, because the duck in the osmanthus blooming season production, so the name: osmanthus duck. The White Gate Recipes recorded: "Jinling August period, salt water duck is the most famous, everyone thought that the meat within the fragrance of osmanthus flowers. "It is a good wine.

Stewed raw knock, is also extremely labor-intensive and time-consuming traditional dishes in Nanjing. The eel is killed and boned, and the eel meat is pounded with a wooden stick to loosen the meat, hence the name "raw knocking". Originating from the folk, after Hu Changling's hand integrated into the famous dish, through the Republic of China and become a classic of Nanjing. The stew has a rich flavor and garlic aroma, which makes people want to eat it. Yuan Mei of the Qing Dynasty, once in the "With the garden food list" so recorded: Nanjing cooks always make eel for the charcoal, is not understandable. Nanjing cooks make long fish, must be fried like charcoal. Purely from the principle of cooking, the long fish fried wither the moisture fried out, in order to let it better absorb the outside of the marinade. When the stewed raw knock is done in a better state, it can reach a realm where it is crispy and contains the marinade without breaking.

The world's first dish". This Nanjing Republic of China dishes in the year order rate is extremely high. It is not only famous, and on the table will also issue a "piercing la" a sound, diners hear the sound, see the color, smell the aroma, although not yet imported, it has been a great appetite, fingers moving, "Therefore, some people commented that the Chinese food is the world's first, this dish is the first of the Chinese food. . Because in addition to its color, aroma, taste and shape, there is also the word 'sound', which is rarely found in culinary delicacies around the world!" "The world's first dish", said mysterious, but in fact very simple, is "portobello mushroom potpourri", also known as "three fresh potpourri". Cooking "mushroom potpourri", potpourri should be fried crispy and slightly yellow, not burnt. The soup is very delicate. When "Liuhua Chun" first created this dish, it used mushroom soup, but later it became more and more fancy, with slices of meat, shrimp, squid, and sea cucumber added to the soup. When the waiter serves the dish, he carries a freshly fried pot roast in his left hand and a bowl of mushroom soup in his right hand. The soup is poured onto the potpourri with a loud, bubbling white sound. "This dish is all about fresh soup and crispy potpourri, as well as a color palette to ensure that diners' ears, eyes, mouths and noses are all enjoyed."

"Ladybird Pigeon Eggs" Republican era, Nanjing cuisine in the French " a mouthful of food" concept. Once, in 1927, Ms. Soong Mei-ling and Chiang Kai-shek married, often live in Nanjing Tangshan Hot Spring Villa. Once, Song Meiling invited the United States General Marshall to the "six Chinese spring" meal, specifically ordered this special dish. As soon as the dish was served, Marshall hurriedly tasted it, which was extremely delicious, and praised: "It's really good, really good! Ms. Song's face is as white as a pigeon's egg!" Said Ms. Song Meiling full of red.

The dish is a small porcelain spoon, filled with translucent pigeon eggs, below is a shrimp paste steamed out lining the bottom, like velvet wrapped in diamonds, pendant decorated with hair and cyanobacteria Chinese " orchid pattern ".

Major braised pork, the choice of top quality pork, carefully stewed and stewed. The finished product is brownish red in color, fat meat rich and transparent, lean meat thick and sweet, sweet and soft taste, fat but not greasy.

We are familiar with the famous "Four Famous Dishes" ("Liver of Beauty", "Squirrel Fish", "Anchovy Shrimp", "Eggs and Eggs"). What is the origin of the "Four Famous Dishes" ("Liver of Beauty", "Squirrel Fish", "Phoenix Tail Shrimp" and "Egg Siu Mai")? It was in 1927 after the National Government had set its capital at Nanjing. Tan Yan Lo, Chairman of the National Government, often patronized Ma Xiang Xing, and after he publicized it, powerful people flocked to the restaurant. Ma Xiangxing became so famous that it constantly renovated its dishes and created the "Four Famous Dishes".

An interesting story has been passed down. Once a doctor booked a banquet, the chef found that a dish was missing when he was preparing the dishes, what should he do? He found duck pancreas that was soaked in water. Duck pancreas is not valued scraps, he with chicken breast with duck oil stir-fried on the table, the results of the tender and crisp texture greatly appreciated by customers. Later, this dish was listed as the first of the four famous dishes, named "beauty liver", beauty liver is actually duck pancreas, but eat up with the texture of the liver is more like a very delicate texture. A duck and a pancreas, a flavor of the dish must be forty or fifty duck pancreas can be accomplished. Duck to be fat and tender, but also to be fresh, the most important thing is to burst the fire when the fire, the fire is not, soft and not crispy, the fire is too much, fatigue and not tender. If you doubt "Ma Xiangxing" chef has no skill, the store will tell you "eat all the museums in Nanjing, you must not eat 'beauty liver'!"

Phoenix shrimp is a traditional dish in Nanjing, is one of the representatives of Beijing-Soviet cuisine (Jinling cuisine), shrimp meat white, tail shell bright red, shaped like a phoenix tail, lined with green green beans, colorful, tender shrimp, accompanied by duck oil cooking, the taste is more beautiful. In Nanjing literature, "White Door Recipes" in its records. Its main ingredient is river shrimp, and egg whites and peas as a supplement. Not only nutritious, nourishing blood and essence, but also able to delay aging, improve the body's ability to fight diseases and immune function. Cocktail shrimp", is the first Ma Xiangxing. The dish selects fresh river shrimp, with large green shrimp as the most. Legend has it that once, a small apprentice in the squeeze shrimp, did not squeeze clean, leaving the tail half of the shell did not squeeze down, put the frying pan a go, the results of the shell red meat white, very good-looking, the chef saw after the inspiration, simply all the green shrimp to head shell, body shell, leaving the tail shell, to red tendons, sizing, with green beans, diced mushrooms, diced bamboo shoots, scallion white and then stir-fried with duck oil. On the table, only to see its meat white tail red, such as the colorful phoenix tail, pleasing to the eye, so the dish was named "phoenix tail shrimp. Phoenix tail shrimp and beauty liver two dishes, in the selection of materials more elaborate. Phoenix tail shrimp selection of the size of the river shrimp there is a quantity of standards, a catty of shrimp must be in the number of 80 or less, so that the shrimp will not seem too small.

"Beauty liver, on the other hand, requires 40 to 50 duck pancreases to make one serving." "Since duck pancreas is tender, it should not be blanched for more than 10 seconds, and it should be sauteed very quickly, or it will be old and unpalatable.

"Egg shumai" is because of Bai Chongxi. He especially likes shumai and shrimp, so Ma Xiangxing chef Jin Hongyi for his preferences, wrapped in egg skin shrimp into shumai, steamed in a steamer, and then topped with marinade made with chicken juice, cornstarch, duck oil. Bai Chongxi tasted very happy. This dish is therefore famous.

"Dream of the Red Chamber" has such a plot, Liu Lou Lou into the Grand View Garden, ate a "eggplant replica bags china". This "eggplant replica" although the main ingredient is eggplant, but with chicken breast meat, mushrooms, new bamboo shoots, mushrooms, five-spice tofu, various colors of dried fruits, simmering dry in chicken soup, will be a collection of sesame oil, the production process is very cumbersome, it is no wonder that Liu Lou Lou Lou did not eat the flavor of eggplant. The "six Hua Chun" has a famous dish and "eggplant replica bags" is very similar, it is the stewed vegetable core.

"Stewed vegetable core, the choice is the Nanjing specialties of the short feet of yellow cabbage, cabbage is not all used, only to choose about 10 centimeters long 24 heart. Vegetable heart to be cut into olive-shaped, cross-hatched into a cross, with cut into 5 cm long, 1 cm wide willow leaf-shaped chicken breast, meat, with egg white, dry starch mix, respectively, into the lard pot micro-explosion. When the leaves appear bright green, the root of the vegetables white in transparent, chicken breast shelling when fishing out. Then put the vegetable heart head outward, leaves inward, into the casserole dish rows. Then use the mushrooms, asparagus, ham, chicken breast slices in order to form a round, covered in vegetable leaves, put in a variety of ingredients, placed on a high fire stew boiling, and then simmering through the fire, and finally dripping some chicken oil, this dish is ready."

Lastly, the father of the nation, Dr. Sun Yat-sen, "Founding Strategy" in a sentence as the conclusion of this article, "I China's modern civilization evolution, everything is behind the people, but the progress of the food a progress, and so far for the civilization of the countries not as good as. China's invention of food, certainly more than Europe and the United States; and China's cooking method of excellence, and not Europe and the United States can be compared."