There is a restaurant called "Yili Restaurant" in Tongzhi, Xianfeng. Its equipment is very simple, with wooden tables and benches serving cakes. A wooden sign with the word "tea talk" is hung at the opening to provide guests with a place to stop and talk and eat. Later, "tea house" appeared, and "home" means "tea house" At that time, people who run teahouses in Foshan bought land to build teahouses with several floors, and then the whole building was used to run large teahouses. Since then, Cantonese people have started to have the habit of going to teahouses. There is another kind called "Erli Restaurant" which also serves the same dim sum. The difference lies in the price and equipment. The tea cost in the teahouse is three points and six cents, while the tea cost in Erli Restaurant is only two cents, which is a far cry, 16 times. Some old-fashioned teahouses are graded, and the upstairs is more expensive than the downstairs, because there is air conditioning (or electric fan) upstairs and the place is more spacious.
Tea House in Ancient Guangzhou
The predecessor of Guangzhou Tea House is a restaurant, which can be traced back to Yongli, Daoguang District, Qing Dynasty. There is a poem saying: "There is a curtain outside Xiaodongmen, and pedestrians on Yong 'an Bridge know it. It was an old restaurant 2 years ago." The Jinjiang Restaurant in the East Embankment is also old, and its couplet says: "There are many wine marks on the front, Yu Di blows at the bridge of the 24th, and the clouds in the river are heavy, and the Wan Qian Fan photo album is golden bottles."
in tongzhi period of Qing dynasty, the teahouse opened in Guangzhou was originally called "Ju" and "Shang Cha Ju". It's like Fulaiju in the mouth of the Chenghuang Temple in Hui 'ai Road, Luyuju in Taiping Road, Maozhenju in the second, Yonganju in the third, Wuliuju in the fifth and Taotaoju in the tenth. And Guangxu, "Ju" was renamed "Lou" and called "Shang Teahouse". Strangely enough, the teahouse with the name "Ru" has its own origin: in the first year of Guangxu, there was Chen Huiru, who pioneered "Hui Rulou" in the love. Later, Tan Xinyi, Tan Qingbo, Zhao Jiansheng and others successively gathered shares to open many teahouses with the font of Ru, such as the buildings in Zhuji Road, the buildings in the East of Triangle City, the buildings in Sanru of Haizhu Road, the buildings in Nanru of Huifu Road, the buildings in Furu of Maima Street, and the buildings in Ruiru of Wuxianmen of Long Beach, and the buildings in Tianru and Yide Road in Henan Province.
since it is a building, the underground store is used to sell cakes and cakes. There is a private room in the middle of the upstairs, and a quiet suite around it. The price of tea is also high, so the proverb goes: "Money goes upstairs, but no money goes underground (squatting)."
why is the "residence" of Tao Taoju still in use today and not renamed as "building"? Because of its elegance. Cantonese opera artists mostly live in Xiguan. Bai Jurong and Xue Juexian often come to Taotaoju for tea, and cultural celebrities also come to this elegant gathering. Lu Xun, Xu Guangping and Ba Jin are the guests of Taotaoju.
After liberation, the teahouse has developed after the reform.
This is a time for the teahouse to leap forward.
The teahouse has developed into a modern restaurant, which has reached a higher level. Contemporary restaurants are willing to spend a lot of money on decoration, including single rooms, private rooms and western styles; Japanese-style, Southeast Asian-style, a variety of furnishings, open a variety of teahouses, so that people of different classes have more choices. There are both morning tea and afternoon tea. As for evening tea, the styles are richer, and you can eat stew and seafood.
as for the business model, there have been many changes.
Guangzhou Restaurant, Nanhai City, Food for Heaven and other chain operations, Nanhai Fishing Village, Jiangnan Fishing Village and a series of seafood cities, as well as Dunhuang and other high-end operations.
The development of Guangzhou Teahouse has made a qualitative leap, and its business model has become more diversified, from the expansion of traditional time-honored brands to the chain operation to the development of high-grade teahouses. The development of tea houses in Guangzhou has stepped onto a new stage.
The present situation of morning tea in Guangzhou
"Eating in Guangzhou" is true. Various western restaurants, such as Monte Carlo, and fast food restaurants, such as McDonald's and KFC, have put pressure on the traditional Guangzhou teahouse. For example, m Ji and KFC. Two world-famous fast food restaurants gave Guangzhou teahouse a warning. They have attracted children and the younger generation. And the teahouse has become a place where old people go.
Guangzhou is an old city, not only because it has a history of more than 1 years, but also because there are many old people scattered in teahouses in the streets. These idle old people continue the habit of hundreds of years, strolling into the teahouse early in the morning, ordering a pot of green tea and two snacks, chatting or reading newspapers, and spending most of the morning leisurely. The morning tea in Guangzhou is particularly leisurely because of these old people. Even though there are many businessmen in the teahouse who come and go in a hurry, they feel that they are just passers-by after all. But for the elderly, morning tea is their life. The venue can be changed, but there is nothing else in life.
In this regard, Mr. Sun, a Taiwanese businessman who has been walking in Taiwan, Hong Kong and Shenzhen for many years, agrees: "More than 7% of the customers in restaurants in Hong Kong are old ladies and gentlemen over 6, while the remaining 3% are men over 4, and none of them are office workers in their twenties. It can be seen that morning tea on weekdays is really a thing for the elderly who have nothing to do. Six out of ten guests here have a copy of the newspaper of the day, which is a way of life for Hong Kong people. "
As businessmen, businessmen in Guangzhou may be influenced by the old people in Guangzhou, and the pace of drinking morning tea seems peaceful and slow, so it is not unusual to sit for hours when there is nothing to do. Moreover, the morning tea in Guangzhou is worthy of the name. Teahouses open at 4 or 5 o'clock in the morning. The old people sleep less, get up early and go to the teahouse before dawn. It is precisely because they get up early that even if those businessmen come late, it will not hinder the reality of morning tea. Without the elderly in Shenzhen, morning tea is not early at all, not to mention 4 or 5 o'clock, that is, 7 or 8 o'clock. It is too early for Shenzhen people. In such a place with such rich nightlife, it is absolutely difficult for Shenzhen people who can get up early to eat morning tea. After 1 o'clock is the ideal time for Shenzhen people to have morning tea. Because the time from noon is too short, many Shenzhen people simply solve morning tea and lunch together, which makes the concepts of morning tea and afternoon tea in Shenzhen ambiguous.
In terms of business hours, Master Lin Yuming, the head chef of Chinese food in Grand Sky Hotel, told the reporter: "Guangzhou people pay attention to three teas and two meals. Guangzhou people go to the sea earlier, have money earlier, and have a lot of leisure time in a day, so morning tea, afternoon tea and evening tea are very prosperous. Morning tea in Guangzhou usually opens at 4 o'clock in the morning, and night tea doesn't close until 12 o'clock in the middle of the night, and some even close until 1-2 o'clock the next morning, and some are open all night. Generally speaking, the morning tea market is the most prosperous, and it is often packed from early morning to 11 am. There are also many people who drink night tea, especially in summer, and many Cantonese people regard eating night tea as a way to spend the summer. "
Price
People in Guangzhou pay attention to "food never tires of essence", but the price of dim sum is high and low, which is suitable for the poor and the rich. Old people can order one or two cups that are affordable and firm, and wealthy businessmen can naturally gargle with shark fins.
Du Guangshun, manager of Chinese food department of Grand Yuntian Hotel, who is familiar with Guangdong culture, also said: "Guangzhou is an old city. Eating morning tea is a habit accumulated for hundreds of years, and the price is cheaper than that of Shenzhen. Compared with Guangzhou, Shenzhen's snacks are of high quality and the environment for eating morning tea is good, which is more suitable for business guests to negotiate business. Because the morning tea in Guangzhou is mainly for family guests, it is not as gentle as Shenzhen, and the environment does not have to be star-rated, as long as the family is happy. "
the dominant position of Guangzhou teahouse still exists, after all, it has a historical origin. At present, the teahouse in Guangzhou is facing all kinds of resistance, constantly innovating and improving its management mode, so that the teahouse in Guangzhou can further develop. Although there is a period of silence under the impact of western restaurants and fast food restaurants, Guangzhou teahouse is recovering and waking up.
Five reasons for drinking morning tea
One reason: When you are in this hometown, do as the custom says. If you don't drink morning tea in Guangdong, you will be a Lingnan person in vain.
reason 2: relatives and friends, sitting around the table, a pot of tea and some beautiful things can enhance feelings.
reason 3: having a hearty breakfast is a good reward for yourself who is busy every day.
reason 4: the whole family eats morning tea, but the per capita consumption is only 2 to 3 yuan, and it can be solved together with brunch, which is economical and enjoyable.
reason 5: there are many beautiful things to enjoy.
Five reasons for not drinking morning tea
One reason: I have no time from Monday to Friday and have to go to work; I don't have time on weekends, so I have to sleep.
reason 2: I don't eat breakfast. why do I eat morning tea?
reason 3: it's too expensive. if it's a big gear, you can consider it.
reason 4: the reason is simple, no one treats you.
reason 5: morning tea? What is morning tea?
Morning tea culture in Guangzhou
Drinking morning tea is a unique tea-drinking custom in Guangdong. After getting up in the morning, before starting the day's work and business, one cup or two of famous tea is delicious, which not only solves the breakfast, but also is a wonderful enjoyment.
refreshments are tea and snacks. There are black tea, green tea, oolong tea, scented tea and Yuanbao tea, and there are more kinds of snacks. The most common ones are all kinds of steamed buns, such as barbecued pork buns, crystal buns, pork buns in water cages, steamed buns with shrimps, steamed buns with crab powder, and other kinds of dry steamed buns, all kinds of shortcakes, as well as chicken porridge, beef porridge, raw fish porridge, pig rice rolls, shrimp powder and cloud.
drinking tea is an indispensable part of Guangdong people's life. Here, nervous people begin to relax and talk about life, old friends and stories at leisure; Here, people freely air their mood in the faint fragrance of tea. People brew a pot of good tea in the teahouse, order some delicious snacks, some pour their own drinks, and some chat with friends for a while. Isn't it leisurely!
Teahouses are also an important place for people to make a living. All kinds of people are talking about stocks, the property market, Japanese electrical appliances and American cars in the teahouse. Here, people exchange all kinds of economic and commodity information. Without the ability to "soak" in a teahouse, the chances of making a fortune are much less. In business, if you don't go into a teahouse, you won't be integrated into Guangdong's business society. Leisure and comfortable teahouse has become a place for business negotiation, which makes teahouse no longer just a quiet place for people to chat and kill time. In the old days, there was a couplet in the "Miaoqixiang" teahouse in Guangzhou:
Busy for fame, busy for profit, busy for leisure, have a cup of tea;
toil hard, toil hard, have fun in pain, and bring a pot of wine.
This is the psychological portrayal of people drinking tea in the teahouse.
Of course, the teahouse is not just for morning tea. Tea drinkers always keep coming from morning till night. Tea houses usually open at 5 o'clock in the morning to welcome guests and don't close until midnight. "Three teas and two meals go straight down".
In Guangdong, drinking tea has "etiquette". When the waiter pours tea, the guests usually express their gratitude by tapping the desktop with their forefinger and middle finger. Legend has it that this custom originated from Emperor Qianlong's trip to the south of the Yangtze River, traveling incognito. Once, the emperor who pretended to be a servant poured tea for his servant who pretended to be a master. The servant was grateful and frightened. He should have knelt down and bowed down, but he was afraid of revealing his royal status. So he had a brainwave and tapped the table with his two fingers instead, which has been spreading ever since.
In a teahouse, when a guest needs to replenish water, just open the lid of the pot and the waiter will come. As for the origin of this etiquette, it is said that a wealthy businessman went to the teahouse to drink tea and asked the waiter to add water to him. As soon as the waiter opened the lid of the pot, he shouted "Hehe" and claimed that there was a thrush worth a thousand dollars in the pot that was released to the waiter, and he must pay compensation from the teahouse. In desperation, the boss stipulated that tea drinkers who want to add water should open the lid of the pot themselves to prevent fraud. Today, this habitual action has become a signal for tea drinkers to add water, so there is no need to call the waiter.
as for the types of morning tea snacks in Guangzhou, please visit the following webpage:
. com/special/kejiao/22-9-11/765592.html.