Perhaps because they have experienced too many vicissitudes of life and ups and downs, the residents living in this city have not lost their strength of character because of their prosperity, and they have a few ancient styles in their gestures. Up to now, this city is still famous for its peace, simplicity and advocating art.
Text introduction
Sixty years ago, Zhu Ziqing said with emotion: Nanjing is like an antique shop, and there are traces of the erosion of the times everywhere. Different from hutong in Beijing, Bund in Shanghai, West Lake in Hangzhou and Mahjong in Chengdu, this city lacks a significant symbol of life, but it has left fragments everywhere. If you want to truly appreciate the taste of Nanjing, you can't wait, only chew slowly.
main body
The first part of scenic spots
Ordinary lanes are all scenery.
"The Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum must be counted, and it is on almost all publicity albums about Nanjing, but the humanistic atmosphere of Confucius Temple and the noise of Qinhuai River are unforgettable, and the Ming City Wall and Presidential Palace full of history are more representative."
Yao Chun is a photographer. He travels in Nanjing all year round and is familiar with the beautiful scenery. However, it is still not easy for him to find a landmark that can represent Nanjing alone, because almost everyone in Nanjing has his own representative scenic spots in Nanjing.
"If you have to say it, it's still the Ming city wall. Nanjing can't spare it." Yao Chun said. It winds in front of you, missing its mouth, covered with green vines, like an old and wise elder. Unlike the walls of Xi 'an and Beijing, the Ming City Wall of Nanjing is not high or neat. Although its length makes her the world's first city wall, its real value is not here.
It is so close to every Nanjing citizen that it can be described as within reach. It hugs the residents of the city tightly and shelters the lanes with strong life breath in her shade. You can often see such a scene. At the root of the city wall, on the one hand, old people are playing chess while on the other hand, young people are driving motorcycles and speeding by.
Every brick is a book, mottled and ancient. Nothing can make you understand and fall in love with this city faster than walking around this ancient Ming city wall with a history of more than 600 years. It may be incomplete, but it is by no means boring. From south to north and from east to west, you can fully observe the strong and peaceful vitality of this city. It's like a "Zongzi", which is neither conservative nor ostentatious, and it doesn't particularly emphasize footwork, but it is also advanced and backward ... just like people living in this city.
Even a bell ringing on the Linggu Temple Tower in the early morning of spring, a lotus flower in Xuanwu Lake after a rain in summer, a fallen leaf on the stone statue road in the afternoon of autumn, and a pool of snow on the lake before dusk in winter will make you feel that this is Nanjing, and this is Nanjing. You have to look at them one by one, so that you can feel a little of its skirt, otherwise there will always be shortcomings.
For Nanjing people, what is happiness? That is, on a sunny day, riding a bicycle with family and friends to the eastern suburbs full of towering fatong is always a place for photographers to draw inspiration. In contrast, ming tomb, Sun Yat-sen's Mausoleum, Meihua Mountain, Linggu Temple and other historical sites seem to be a foil.
In particular, the famous boulevard in the eastern suburbs, which started at 1929, can never get tired of seeing it all year round. The French phoenix trees on both sides of the road are solemn, neat, quiet and elegant. Walking in the meantime, it seems as if they are completely separated from the world.
The first part of the information supply station
Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum:
If there is a great man in modern times whose appeal can closely connect all Chinese at home and abroad, it must be Dr. Sun Yat-sen. At first sight, you will be deeply impressed by the blue glazed tiles and white building walls here. Nearly 80 years ago, Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum always gave people a clean, simple, solid and solemn feeling. When I climbed the Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum and looked back at the mountains in the past, my eyes were full of green, and Zhongshan was yellow from the wind and rain, which was really appropriate. Castle Peak, the tomb of a great man, is one of the most proud scenic spots in this city.
Transportation: You 1, You No.2, No.9 and No.20.
Ticket price: 40 yuan
Opening hours: 7: 00-18: 00.
Tel: 025-84446111
Xuanwu Lake:
Egrets linger on the surface of the water, and one or two sails move slowly as if painted on the lake. Far away through the smoke and water, it seems to be a trace of ethereal Sanskrit. The size of Xuanwu Lake can be compared with that of West Lake in Hangzhou, but it has the substrate made of the smoke willow of the Six Dynasties and the city wall of the Ming Dynasty. The temperament of Xuanwu Lake is quieter and sadder. I don't know why, every time I go to Xuanwu Lake, there are always few tourists on the lakes and parks in Nuoda. The lake with low branches seems to be full of lovers.
Transportation: You 1 1 Road, No.33, No.35, No.52, No.26 and No.47.
Admission: 20 yuan/Taicheng 10 yuan/Huanhu Road: Free.
Opening hours: 7: 00-21:00.
Tel: 025-83374347
Confucius Temple:
The oars, alas, stirred the colourful water. The colorful banks of Qinhuai River are like fire, and the true color of the clear water can no longer be seen. Shili Qinhuai is very different from the plasma light shadow that Zhu Ziqing saw in those days. The antique buildings that rubbed shoulders and rubbed heels and the ups and downs of selling each other are more lively but less lasting appeal. Compared with ancient buildings, the most famous here is the folk culture rooted here for hundreds of years. Shaking, tying lanterns, paper-cutting, painting gourds, tying kites, micro-carving. If you work hard to find it, a handmade stall can make you excited for a long time.
Transportation: You 2, You 4, 1 Road, 4, 7, 3 1 Road, 40, 44 and 47.
Tickets: none,
Tel: 025-86620 123
Presidential Palace:
Both Sun Yat-sen's temporary presidential office and Lin Sen's Zichao Building are gray buildings, which does not prevent curious tourists from flooding in to explore history every day. Standing in these gray buildings and holding your breath, you can feel the history flying all over the sky like dust. The Presidential Palace is a place with strict weather. Through the mottled and complicated buildings, you will see a strange overlap: the Ming Palace, the Governor's Office of the Qing and Liangjiang Rivers, the Tianwang Palace of the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom, the temporary presidential palace of the Republic of China, the presidential palace of the Republic of China, and later the Jiangsu Provincial Political Consultative Conference. So much so that it later had to be named after the vague name "China Museum of Modern History".
Ticket price: 40 yuan opening hours: 8: 00-17: 00.
Tel: 025 845787 18
Yangtze River Bridge:
It is not only a reinforced concrete bridge for both railway and highway, but also the enthusiasm and declaration of a new country. As a historical symbol, its significance exceeds its value. In the last two years, there has been a serious traffic jam here. At about ten o'clock in the morning, our car had to move slowly because of the long winding line in front. This makes us once again carefully examine the earliest dual-purpose bridge across the Yangtze River in New China. Sculpture with obvious Soviet color, bridge railing decoration reflecting the content of the Cultural Revolution, and rumbling trains passing from time to time, this big reinforced concrete guy has as great endurance as appearance. In order to protect the Yangtze River, Nanjing has built two bridges, is building three bridges and is planning four bridges to ease its traffic pressure.
Transportation: 10 road and 2 1 road; Take 12, 15, 67, 69 and 307 to get to Daqiao Park.
Tickets for Daqiao Park: 15 yuan
Memorial Hall for Victims of Nanjing Massacre by Japanese Invaders;
More than 60 years ago, in less than two months. The lives of 300,000 compatriots were lost under the butcher's knife of Japanese fascists. Today, people walk into this memorial hall named after one of the massacre sites, and more feelings are meditation and sadness about history. Gray and black are the main colors here, and both sculptures, dead trees and walls have strong metaphorical meanings, especially the ground paved with gray pebbles in the center of the square. It symbolizes the innocent people who died in suffering, and even the names are not specific. There is no doubt that it is dignified here, but you must go.
Address: No.418, Shuiximenwai Street, Nanjing
Transportation: Take bus No.4, bus No.7, bus No.29, bus No.37, bus No.39, bus No.41,bus No.80, bus No.82 and bus No.92.
Admission: Free of charge.
Tel: 86-25-866 12230
Zhongshan Road:
In the 1930s, Zhongshan Road built the most urban framework of China's capital at that time. Along this road, which is more than ten kilometers long, a series of buildings of the Republic of China, banks, hotels, museums, government agencies ... The buttonwood trees on both sides of the road have also created a green tunnel running through Nanjing. .
Ninety-nine and a half rooms:
This typical China ancient building with wooden frame was built in the early years of Daoguang, inheriting the style of Huizhou ancient architecture, with exquisite wood carving and stone carving, as well as the architectural style of Taihu Lake Basin. It took 50 years for the Gan family to build this house, and four groups of houses were built, with more than 300 rooms, commonly known as "ninety-nine and a half rooms" among the people. Ninety-nine and a half are also folk museums. In it, you can play a long-lost childhood game, throw sandbags, pick gold needles, shoot foreign paintings, perform magic tricks after watching it, and watch shadow play and puppet show again.
Address: No.9/KLOC-0, Nanbu Hall.
Admission: 10 yuan/person.
Opening hours: 8:00- 17:00.
Ming tomb:
Adjacent to Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum, another secluded place in Zhongshan, there lies a founding emperor of Ming Dynasty, Zhu Yuanzhang, and ming tomb is the only world cultural heritage in Nanjing at present.
Transportation: Take bus No.2, No.3 and No.20.
Opening hours: 8:00- 187:00.
Tickets to 50 yuan (including ming tomb, Meihua Mountain, Zixia Lake and Honglou Art and Literature Garden)
Stone road:
Like Meihua Mountain, Shixiang Road is actually a part of ming tomb. The stone man and horse here are tall and beautiful, hidden in the autumn leaves of spring flowers, like a landscape painting that has been silent for 600 years. Autumn scenery on Shixiang Road is also a famous scene in Nanjing.
The second part of food
Gluttony is not a crime.
One of the greatest pleasures of Chen Rui, a university teacher who teaches sociology, is to make an appointment with three or five friends after work to find new places to eat. "China people say that food is the most important thing for the people, and Jews also say that the purpose of making money is to make themselves eat well, and the purpose of making more money is to make themselves eat better. Therefore, it is natural to love eating, and there is nothing to be ashamed of. Eating is also a kind of sociology. "
The geographical location of neither south nor north has created the extremely complex tastes of Nanjing people. Here, delicious food from almost anywhere can catch fire. hangzhou dishes has occupied the high-end catering market, Sichuan cuisine is all over the streets, Italian cuisine, Brazilian cuisine and French cuisine are numerous, and I'm afraid the most popular food this year is West Asia and South Asia. India's master opened his arm to bake pancakes for you, Thailand's beauty asked you softly whether you want red curry or green curry, and the Vietnamese guy conjured you a bowl of rice noodles in the blink of an eye.
"I guess, if you run all the way to the southwest, Laos and Cambodia will come soon." Chen Rui said. However, no matter where the tongue of Nanjing people goes to have fun in the world, there is always one thing that is always the favorite, that is, ducks. Nanjing people's sweet-scented osmanthus salted duck is famous. The duck head, neck, claws, breast, wings, gizzard, skin, liver, heart, intestines, blood, oil and even butt are all taken apart for eating.
A few years ago, the duck blood vermicelli chain was still a small shop on the roadside, and now its chain stores can be seen everywhere. It is rumored that the boss now owns six BMWs privately. Haha, this is all because Nanjing people eat ducks. A bowl of duck blood vermicelli soup in 4.5 yuan definitely belongs to civilian consumption, and Nanjing people usually order another cage of soup packets to eat with it. Dark red blood clots are tender like tofu, but they are more resilient than tofu. When you take a bite, the soup in the pores immediately overflows all over your mouth, and your tongue is served comfortably. Duck blood vermicelli soup contains not only duck blood and vermicelli, but also a handful of duck intestines, seven or eight pieces of duck liver, three or four pieces of bean curd fruit, coriander and mustard seed foam, while sucking smooth vermicelli, and then gulping and drinking a mouthful of colorful soup, and soon the bowl is upside down and sweating. In one word, cool.
As long as others are popular and fashionable, they can always be found in Nanjing. What private kitchens, transparent kitchens, compound dishes, vegetarian dishes and meat to eat … and so on. In a word, Nanjing people love to eat, and they don't hide their love. The food in Nanjing is worth paying more attention to.
I don't know when, among the gluttons in Nanjing, the legend of widow's face began to spread. Due to different opinions, it also adds a lot of mystery to this face. The most common saying is that this noodle was invented by a widow and old lady, and all the things that her husband loved to eat before his death were put into the noodle to express his thoughts, but as a result, he unintentionally made delicious food on earth. Authentic Widow Noodle has been relocated many times, and now the store is called Qijia Noodle Noodle Noodle, which is next door to Daxianglu and No.24 Middle School. There are also widows' faces in Sanyuan Lane and Honghuadi, but they are said to be incomparable. There is indeed a widow in the shop, but she is too old to cook, and she is basically cooked by her family.
If you don't eat skin and belly noodles here, you will come for nothing. If there are many people in the queue, you can take it out, but you must separate the halogen from the ingredients, otherwise the soup will be light, salty and not delicious. If you eat in a shop, the bowl for noodles is a huge sea bowl, and the noodles are cooked in 2 minutes with a very strong fire head. They are very somersaults, and the soup is sufficient, which is similar to a hodgepodge. At least there are 10 kinds of things, such as vegetables, fungus, skin belly, pork liver, tomatoes, quail eggs, sausages, shredded pork, etc., which are stewed in one pot without oil and salt for seasoning. Diners can choose all kinds of ingredients according to their tastes. Of course, a skin belly is indispensable. Interestingly, although the outside world calls this noodles widow's noodles, none of the shops that can sell noodles say that they are widow's noodles, but they are all called skin belly noodles.
If foreigners come to Nanjing for food, if they really can't find the north, then I recommend the simplest way. Nanjing has published the first professional "Food Map" in China. If you buy a copy in a bookstore for a few dollars, you can safely follow the map and eat all over Nanjing.
Part II Information Supply Station
Yat sen villa:
The biggest feature here is a small dish of snacks, which are served one after another. In a short time, the dishes in front of you are "the other mountains all appear dwarfs under the sky.", and the diners definitely have a sense of accomplishment. All the snacks are the first of the "Eight Musts of Qinhuai": Huangqiao sesame seed cake and kai yang dried silk in Yongheyuan; The second best: Jiang Youji's beef soup and beef pot stickers; The third must: tofu waterlogging and scallion cake in Liufengju; The fourth must: Qifangge's duck oil cake and jambalaya Bao; The fifth skill: dried sesame oil and shredded chicken in Qifangge; The sixth must: sweet-scented osmanthus sandwich dumplings and five-color cakes in Lianhu pastry shop; The seventh must: smoked fish, silver noodles and thin bag dumplings in Zhanyuan noodle restaurant; Eight unique skills: spiced beans and spiced eggs in Kuiguangge.
Green willow house:
Nanjing is a gathering place for Muslims, and one of the most famous vegetarian restaurants is Green Willow House. Abalone is made of pumpkin, soft-shelled turtle is a vegetable suspected of bean products, screws are dough, pork is tofu, and even more bizarre is that the floss has become a potato. These purely "fake" dishes are the popular "suspense dishes" in Nanjing at present, and it takes a lot of effort to guess what it is. I recommend two things. One is vegetarian roast goose. When it is served, it looks a bit like Beijing roast duck. The duck skin is golden, fragrant and crisp. It is discovered that it is the tofu skin that is tired layer by layer with chopsticks. The other is pork floss, which is the most common dish. It can cut potato shreds into pieces thinner than hair shreds. After being oiled, the roots are curled up into a ball, much like pork floss.
Street eggs:
This is a characteristic of Nanjing, and few outsiders dare to try it. The so-called "prosperous egg" is actually an egg that the chicken has not hatched yet, and there is an embryo inside. The seller put a small stove on the side of the road and put a big pot on it. A pot of eggs floated in the pot. At first glance, there is nothing special. Experienced people will tell you that what floats is "whole chicken" and what is calm is "half chicken and half egg".
Jiming Temple vegetarian meal:
Mushroom noodles and assorted vegetables are very good. The soup is cooked with mushroom stalks and bean sprouts, which is particularly fresh and has no oil flowers. A row of antique long windows, like going back in time, are mountains and trees outside the window, where you can have tea and snacks. The snacks are all vegetarian chicken, spiced beans and dried orchids made by monks themselves, all of which are exquisite and delicious.
Street sugar porridge lotus root:
This is a common dessert in Nanjing snacks in the old years. Every night, "sugar porridge-lotus root!" The shouts always attract many old Nanjing. Now, in some roadside food stalls, you can occasionally see people doing it. This porridge is made of ordinary glutinous rice, which has both thick rice soup and distinct particles. Put brown sugar in the porridge and then increase the lotus root section. When eating, cut the lotus root into thin slices and mix them into porridge. The lotus root is lavender, the slices are dark brown and the rice grains are light green. This is a good porridge lotus root for all ages in Nanjing. As long as you spend one or two yuan, a bowl of porridge lotus root with moderate temperature, fragrance and sweetness will be served to you.
Jiangsu restaurant:
There are 30 traditional classic Beijing-Suzhou cuisines here, including the enduring Jinling Roast Duck, and even the famous classical dishes with sand crystal, chicken in oil and shark's fin wrapped in duck, which have been lost for more than 20 years, can be turned over here, all of which were re-made by the apprentice of the famous chef Hu Changling, turning over the notes 30 years ago. Stewed sea cucumber with tribute, ham with wine, shark's fin wrapped in duck, and flat cake are the four signature dishes in this store. Judging from the taste of modern people, it is very recommended to stew raw and knock. In fact, it is eel soup. Choose the best Monopterus albus, beat the meat of Monopterus albus with a small hammer at least several hundred times before cooking. After the meridian of Monopterus albus is completely loosened, the meat becomes very tender and smooth, and then simmer in a casserole for 2 hours. The white soup is fragrant, and the meat of Monopterus albus melts in the mouth.
Jiuxi duck neck:
Located in Dashiba Street, Confucius Temple, the duck neck is a very pink MM, which tastes like "beauty" of duck neck. It is said that the neck is the most moving part of ducks, so the neck is live meat, which is tight, especially biting, and can especially dry soup, so it is very tasty. Plus there is an air-drying procedure, so it is neither oily nor dirty to eat on your hands.
Qianxilong fatty intestine fish:
This small Sichuan restaurant hidden in Xiaohuowa Lane has opened three branches on both sides of the road less than 50 meters apart. Frontispiece is small, but Sichuan food is very spicy. Fat sausage and fish are cooked together, and the smell of fish and fat sausage is slightly stinky, which is so wonderful. The fat sausage picked up in the red oil is tender, tough and a little crisp, and the fish is refreshing and soft, so it is not boring to eat more.
Lion Bridge Gourmet Street:
Delicious foods from all over the world are concentrated here, and almost all tastes you want can be satisfied. Chinese folk cuisine A street is full of delicious food from all provinces. The other is an exotic food street. It is worth recommending Thai food in Jinhetai Restaurant. Sweet-leaf sago cake, fried shrimp cake, signature curry meat crab, hot and sour boneless chicken feet, Thai yellow curry beef brisket pot, and golden rice slices are all its signature dishes. At the end of the meal, I recommend a lotus leaf sago cake, a small milky dessert with coconut juice aroma, which is square in the lotus leaf and tastes sweet and cool. If you go further to the east end of Lion Bridge, it will become the world of Nanjing cuisine. The old man in costume at the entrance of Nanjing food stall will help you to take a seat. The guests will sit in the attic or under the shade, look at the birdcage and listen to the pingtan. This meal will definitely be lively. There are many high-end and clean restaurants, such as Lion Palace, Lion Building, Maojia Hotel and Tiens Parkson.
Jinling Royal Garden Private Club:
Very private place, mainly engaged in the palace Tan Jiacai. The restaurant is located near Xuanwu Lake with excellent scenery. It is worth mentioning that his abalone sashimi is reasonable in price. As it is a clubhouse, guests who have finished their meals still have many extracurricular programs to choose from. There is a swimming pool on the first floor, and a library and billiards room on the second floor. Even taking a short break on the terrace on the top floor and enjoying the lakes and mountains is a kind of enjoyment.
The third part hotel Jinling never sleeps.
Zhang Hai, a producer of TV series, often runs around the motherland with the crew. He often says that whenever I go to any city, I will visit its best hotel, because it can best reflect the city's attitude towards life.
For Nanjing people, the 37-story Jinling Hotel is undoubtedly the most affectionate. As early as when there was a low-rise bungalow around, it stood there. For a long time, it was the word with the highest frequency in the composition of local primary school students, which was simply the pride of Nanjing people. Nowadays, it has already been submerged in countless tall buildings around it, but the aristocratic spirit in its bones still makes people admire it. Different from the past, people in Nanjing now think it is more cordial.
"Interestingly, although locals rarely stay in Jinling Hotel, they often go in for a walk, because for Xinjiekou, which has many businesses but lacks decent public toilets, Jinling's luxury toilets are undoubtedly a treasure trove."
If you are tired of the imposing manner of luxury hotels such as Shangri-La, Hilton, Kingsley and Holiday Inn, and are willing to try something new, you can try the Youth Hostel. At present, there are three youth hostels in Nanjing, one in the eastern suburb, which is known for its quiet environment; A Confucius temple, known for its fashion; There is another one in Stone Town, which is good at low prices.
The third largest information supply station
If you are going to spend two thousand yuan a night, you can consider the following hotels.
Shangri-La Hotel:
Walking into the circular lobby of Shangri-La Hotel in Dingshan, a China landscape gold foil mural stands in front of you with dazzling brilliance. The mural is based on Tao Yuanming's Peach Blossom Garden, a famous pastoral poet in the Eastern Jin Dynasty. I like its bathroom. Divided into three small rooms, you can take a shower and take a bath. Sometimes I really feel that the bathroom gives people a better mood than a beautiful bedroom. As the general manager of the hotel said, "Shangri-La, which means' paradise on earth', is the paradise pursued by China people, which should have western comfort and oriental aesthetics."
Address: No.90 Chahar Road, Gulou District, Nanjing Tel: (025)58802888
Jinling Hotel: The security of rooms is one of the few in Nanjing. The Revolving Palace Restaurant is also worth mentioning. After a meal, it takes just 360 degrees to see Nanjing.
Address: No.2 Hanzhong Road Tel: (025)847 1 1888.
19 12 Bar Street: All of them were converted from old buildings in the Republic of China. In the "Ukrainian Bar", both the waiter and the boss are Ukrainian, and the decoration style and music of the bar will also be branded with Ukraine; "Rosemburg" bar limited supply of German brewed beer; Classic fancy coffee makes people appreciate the romantic classics from France in Jazz Island. It is also worth mentioning that there are Japanese-style wooden cool iron plates, and three iron plate tables surround the chef's console. While enjoying the delicious food, guests can also enjoy the exquisite live cooking performance. After the service, the chef will also play a small game with all the guests-by tapping the small food on the table, it will be directly bounced into the customer's mouth accurately.
If you are a student, or just plan to stay for one night, you will spend 30 to 40 yuan and live comfortably. You can consider non-pool middle school students' apartments.
The budget is not very high, and you can't afford to stay in the star-rated hotel above. You can try the non-pool middle school student apartment, which is located in a community near Xuanwu Lake, with convenient transportation. The boss is a doctor from Southeast University. Although there are not as luxurious facilities as the hotel, air conditioners, water heaters, broadband and so on are all equipped. If you are a student, the boss will also provide a laptop to access the Internet for free with your student ID card. It is quite cost-effective to spend thirty or forty yuan to live in Nanjing people's homes and chat with the boss about Nanjing. However, after staying in this public house, customers must write an accommodation feeling of not less than 100 words.
Address: No.298 Zhongyang Road, boss Tel: 1595 056 2834
Part IV Shopping
Happy in Taobao
"To be honest, Nanjing is not a shopping paradise, because it doesn't have so many top brands as Hong Kong, nor does it have so many shopping malls as Shanghai. But if you are not aiming at shopping itself, but to buy a mood and find a leisure, then Nanjing is heaven. " Chen Lan, the company's white-collar worker, has the biggest hobby of shopping, which belongs to a standard "shopping girl". but
Unlike others, she seldom goes to big shopping malls and only likes to drill into corners, so she is very familiar with the small shops in the corner of Nanjing. If the word "shopping" comes from the mouth of Nanjing people, there is a 50% possibility that the noun behind it is Xinjiekou, and the other 50% may be Hunan Road. In the eyes of Nanjing people, you tell him that going shopping is equivalent to going to these two places. This equation must be remembered. China's first business district is not just an expression. There is the most in-depth clothing store, which is cheap and does not lose its identity, and is suitable for all popular new generations.
Shopping in Nanjing is actually a very convenient thing, because the characteristic shops in Nanjing are not scattered in every corner of the city like other cities, and it takes a lot of effort to find them, but they are relatively concentrated, just a few large places.