The profession of chef appeared very early, and there were full-time chefs in slave society. With the continuous improvement of social material civilization, the chef profession is also developing, and the team of full-time chefs is expanding. According to relevant statistics, at the beginning of the 20th century, the number of chefs in the world has grown to tens of millions. China is known as the culinary kingdom in the world, and its chefs are second to none in strength and quantity. According to relevant data, in 2002, the total number of chefs in China was10 million. Such a huge team accounts for a considerable proportion of industrial workers in China.
Characteristics of chef's labor
As a production department, the catering industry is a producer, and the work of chefs has its own characteristics.
1, the characteristics of the unity of service and creativity
Chef's labor product-dishes are sold to people for enjoyment, and providing customers with exquisite dishes is the main purpose of chef's labor. Therefore, it has the characteristics of commercial service. This feature requires the chef to have a good moral character of serving the people wholeheartedly, a customer-oriented attitude and a willingness to sacrifice. When chefs provide services to consumers, they should do everything possible to win economic benefits for their own enterprises, accumulate funds for national construction and increase wealth. This requires chefs to win customers through quality service and increase more benefits for enterprises through increasing production and saving, which are contradictory but more unified.
2, technical and scientific, artistic characteristics of unity.
Cooking is a skill. Chef's labor is a technical work mainly based on manual operation. From the identification of raw materials to primary processing, from manual cutting to mastering the temperature and seasoning, it is its specific technical requirements and operational difficulties. In addition to technical elements, cooking is a science-an art with food modeling as its main form of expression. It is the organic unity of the three. And the chef's labor process, in essence, is the process of organically combining the three.
3, the characteristics of the unity of physical labor and mental labor.
Chef's labor force is a technical work mainly based on manual operation, which is mainly expressed in the form of manual labor in concrete implementation. Even, sometimes it shows heavy physical labor. For example, the initial processing of some raw materials, turning the pot on the stove. However, the chef's labor is not pure physical labor, but a kind of labor that includes a lot of labor. Especially with the requirements of scientific and standardized cooking, the proportion of mental work in chef's work is increasing. For example, the design of banquet, the conception of banquet, the determination of nutrition and hygiene indicators of dishes and the modeling of dishes are all condensed with more complicated mental work.
Why does the chef wear a hat? In the restaurant, every chef wears a white hat. There is also a very interesting story about the origin of the chef in white hat.
It is said that more than 200 years ago, there was a famous French chef named Andrew Clem. He was a senior chef in a famous restaurant in Paris in the18th century. Andefan is cheerful and humorous and likes to show off. One night, he saw a customer wearing a novel white hat in a restaurant, which attracted the attention of the whole restaurant. He deliberately followed suit and immediately customized a high white hat, which was much higher than the customer's hat. Wearing this white hat, he was very proud to go in and out of the kitchen, which really attracted the attention of all customers. Many people are curious and come to visit this restaurant. This effect has become a sensational news, making the restaurant business more and more prosperous. Later, the owners of many restaurants in Paris noticed the attraction of this white top hat, and they also customized the same white top hat for their chefs.
Over time, this white hat became the symbol and symbol of the chef. Up to now, chefs all over the world have generally put on this white hat. The white top hat becomes the working hat for the chef to keep food hygiene.
Laobeijing dechuhang
Jiao shouzheng
Holding hot wine, breaking peanuts, tasting the fragrance of peanuts and chatting about 360 lines of old Beijing, the kitchen line is the most helpful. According to its classification and service practice, it should be the first in China, and its classification is extremely strict. Old Beijingers can see at a glance who to choose for dinner can't be wrong. They are divided into kitchen, dining room and dining room, which can be seen at a glance.
Cooking is the highest, commonly known as "mouth", which is divided into kitchen mouth and waiter mouth. The organizer calls it "the head of the team", and the head of the kitchen and the head of the waiter are both famous people. Nail a wooden sign in front of his house, which says "cook for someone" and "mouth" distinguish the real mouth from the mouth of China people. There are many scattered Muslim ports, including Niujiekou, Chaowaikou, Deshengmen and Chongwenkou. Han people's mouths are relatively concentrated, only divided into east and west, with the east in Chongwen and the west in Xuanwu. The two openings are divided into a kitchen opening and a vegetable room opening. Every entrance is manned. Anyone who works as a temporary worker, whether a chef or a waiter, calls himself "lip service". They are all registered on the "mouth", that is, they hang their name tags on the neatly arranged little nails on their mouths. If they have work to do, they will turn their labels over. They should turn them over after work, which shows that they are waiting for work at home. If the victim has something to do, he can directly invite someone, and the general manager will arrange manpower according to the size of the task. The kitchen entrance and the waiter will be sent separately, and the invited people will bring their own knives, spoons and aprons to the scene on time, and will be paid quite a lot after the account is settled. The tools that should be alive on the "mouth" are all rented except the apron with knife and spoon.
In old Beijing, people often rent furniture (commonly known as buddy seats), including cups, plates, spoons, chopsticks, pots and pans. In addition, there are some shops that specialize in renting tables, chairs and benches, such as Yongxing Ji Guo at the south entrance of Gulou Old Street and Gengdu Hall at the north entrance of downtown. They all rent furniture and are used to being called furniture stores. These chefs are always doing nothing. If you have a banquet, you can invite him, one or two tables, or as many as 1800 tables. After the Republic of China, most people in the officialdom were newcomers, and they didn't know much about this business, so they declined. However, those who used to cook New Year's dishes in their hometown are still looking for them.
Next is the restaurant, where the "XX Hall" is hung at the door. There are two kinds of this. The older ones are cold Zhuangzi, and generally don't make a fire. For weddings, funerals, birthday celebrations and other parties, you can reserve one or two tables, or you can promise to reserve 1800 tables, and then you can make a fire. They all have their own places. The smallest has two or three courtyards, twenty or thirty rooms, the largest has seven or eight courtyards, and the largest has a stage for large-scale banquets and performances.
Zhuangzi has not produced many works for a long time, mainly because the cabinet members are responsible for the contact business, and the first sub-business has to go to the "mouth" to invite people. The younger one is hot Zhuangzi. There is usually a fire, and it can also be retailed. You can eat at any time, and there are plenty of rooms. Anyone who entertains guests here can own three rooms or a courtyard, even though there is only one table. Therefore, in the past, all the slightly fastidious guests were in this restaurant, because it was quieter and undisturbed than the restaurant. When Zhuangzi promised to hold a festive banquet, those who should handle the funeral would go to the victim's home or the temple where the spirit died. There used to be Jiaxing Temple, Xianliang Temple and other temples. There is a group of people in Zhuangzi, which is very hot.
Kitchen shops and restaurants are suitable for banquets of many people, and at least one table is needed. If three or five people eat at will, it is not appropriate, because most of their dishes are stewed, steamed, simmered and braised, and they are not afraid of long heat. They open dozens of tables at a time, that is, from the pot or from the steamer, such as rice flour meat and braised pork. Although they were steamed twice, they didn't reduce the taste. If it is a dish that requires frying, such as frying three kinds, shredded yam, fried mutton and so on. It is not appropriate to open more than two or three tables at a time, because only one plate can be fried at a time, and two or more cauldrons will taste bad. If you open dozens of tables at the same time, it will definitely not be delicious.
Then the restaurant. There are four kinds of restaurants: large, medium, small and specialty restaurants. Big ones such as Fengze Garden, Taifeng Building and Dongxing Building. The food in the table is also very good, but no more than two tables at most will taste worse. They should also be invited outside. They can cook dozens or hundreds of dishes, but they must be invited to cook in the kitchen. All the dishes will be close to the taste of the restaurant, because it is not their specialty. If more than a dozen people need to order, it is also very suitable, because their dishes are relatively light, and many dishes are stewed and steamed, all cooked. A slight delay will reduce the taste. China people like Tianxing Building, Tianrui Residence and Dingrui Residence. This restaurant can also cook the whole table, but it won't taste very good. It is best for seven or eight people to eat. Small people, such as Chunhua Building, Chunming Building, Enchengju, etc. It is best to eat from scratch. It is not impossible to make a table, but there is absolutely no good food. Special people, such as casserole house, Zhengyanglou, Quanjude, etc. This kind of restaurant is different from ordinary restaurants. It has no ordinary dishes, only pork in casserole house, only mutton and crab in Zhengyanglou, and only roast duck in Quanjude. Although they also have several kinds of dishes, they can't go beyond their scope. You must never make a table except in a casserole house (this is an old restaurant in old Beijing).
The worst is the restaurant. Most of these dishes are ready-made, although some dishes are now called ready-made, but the taste is simply sour, sweet, spicy and salty. For example, Runming House in Old Dong 'an Market, Pie Week in Donglaishun and Meishi Street. Among them, there are Du Yi, Baijinglou and various small museums in Jizhou; People in the middle reaches, such as various jiaozi shops, steamed stuffed bun shops, fried dumplings shops and tofu shops.
In fact, some of these restaurants are much bigger than others, such as Runming House and Donglaishun, which are much bigger than Chunhua House and Enchengju. It is called a restaurant because in the past, it was called a restaurant selling dishes, and it was called a restaurant selling pasta. Although there is no explicit provision, it is customary for everyone to recognize it. Their staple food is mostly pasta, such as jiaozi shop and steamed stuffed bun shop. Naturally, Runminglou and Donglaishun, although they sell many kinds of cooking, their staple foods are jiaozi, noodles, pies, fried dumplings, steamed buns, pancakes, flower rolls, steamed dumplings, steamed buns and wonton. In the past, everyone who came to a restaurant for dinner focused on pasta and asked for one or two cold dishes to go with the wine. There are a few dishes that are fried now. Later, if you don't understand the nature of the restaurant, it is wrong to ask you to cook here. It is definitely not as delicious as the restaurant. If three or five friends eat casually, this restaurant is perfect.
There are many fried dumpling shops in jiaozi. Apart from pasta, they only sell cold dishes prepared in advance, such as sauce meat, Suzhou meat, liver belly, pine flowers and duck eggs. Instead of selling hot dishes, it saves fire, and secondly, customers can eat quickly and walk quickly, which is very convenient.
When I was young, I remembered two kinds of restaurants, one was stove temperature, and the other was imitation food. The stove temperature is located in Long Fu Temple Street East Sipailou. It can't cook by itself, but it thrives in Fuquan Pavilion at the east gate of Longfu Temple, the nearby cheap square and Bai Kui. His Lamian Noodles is really a must. It is as thin as dried noodles, and noodles are delicious in the mouth. Eating roast duck in Fuquan restaurant, filling the duck rack with gravy, and ordering bowls and a nest of silk in the opposite kitchen are really the best noodles with gravy. You can also mix a nest of shredded pork with Bai Kui roast mutton, which will bring out the best in each other. Later, Zhao Wen added cooking herself.
Imitation dining was originally opened as a park in Beihai, and a greenhouse was built in the east of Wulong Pavilion, which is famous for imitating the food of the royal restaurant in Qing Dynasty. Founder Zhao Rongzhai used to work in the Imperial Chef. Its food has a unique flavor, and the most popular are minced meat biscuits and steamed bread. Later, it was moved to Ningzhai on Tang Yilan Road to operate.
Besides, there are two kinds of restaurants, one is a cheap square, and the other is a big wine jar. In the past, the cheap shops were He Zi shops, and the shops outside were purely pork shops. In addition to raw meat, the seller also makes cooked meat products such as smoking and pickling, and sometimes sells rice seats. All the dishes sold are ready-made in this cabinet, and sometimes pancakes need to be bought outside. For example, time-honored brands and Quanjude both developed from such small stores. Those who only write box shop on the plaque have no dining table. If they write "cheap square", they will bring a dining table, otherwise the word "cheap square" will not be solved. If you bring roast duck and pigs, you should write "old stove shop", which is the rule. This rule is not necessarily after the Republic of China. It turns out that the vat is a retail wine shop. There are a few seats, no tables, only a few big wine jars, covered with a big cylinder cover painted with scarlet paint, filled with wine bowls and tables. Some only prepare a few snacks, such as boiled peanuts and rose dates, and some also sell spiced donkey meat, roasted mutton and stewed yellow croaker. Some sell fish, jiaozi and so on. , and similar to a small restaurant. Both of the above businesses are quite developed. After the Republic of China, new people ignored them, were unfamiliar with them, and people who ate them fainted. As a result, the cheap shops closed down.
Today's cheap square in Chongwenmen is the name of this roast duck restaurant, not the general name of that year. However, the big vats have strong viability, because they have a facade, are small in size, and are favored by the working people at that time, spending less money and drinking enough.
At the beginning, each class has its own special dishes, and each family has its own special dishes. The number of dishes in a restaurant is nothing more than four dried vegetables, four fresh vegetables, four cold dishes, four plates, four bowls and four large pieces. The dishes in the bowl include steamed duck, Four Joy Meetballs, rice flour meat, eight-treasure rice, stewed sea cucumber, three slices of rice, stewed three fresh vegetables and so on. It doesn't matter how long it takes to steam in the steamer. When to use it and when to take it out, there is no big damage to the taste. The dishes on the plate include roasted sea cucumber, fried three winters, fried shrimp, fried liver, fried fish slices and so on.
A large number of cooked food banquets should not be detailed, but in fact, they are not. The owner of the first-class restaurant is very familiar with it, and he is very familiar with it. Ordinary stewed shrimp, fried fish slices, south fried meatballs and stewed chicken shreds are all delicious and impeccable. When the four big pieces are served on the table, rotten elbows, braised ducks and the like can make every guest's mouth bleed.
The food in restaurants pays more attention to calories, but each family also has its own specialties, such as steamed duck liver, boiled duck kidney and stewed duck waist in Dongxinglou. Crab race, sauce fish and hibiscus duck slices in Taifenglou; Longjing shrimp in Minghu Spring is crisp; The grass in Fengze Garden grilled ducks, gold and silver meat; Rui J Hotel's stir-fried peas, stewed morel and stir-fried three mud; Duck diced bread and fried mutton tail bar in Xilaishun; Houdefu's flat fish, sealed chicken, iron pot eggs and eight-treasure hazelnuts; Squirrel and yellow croaker fried in Chunhua Building; Yuhuatai dumplings, yaorou, dried shredded pork, walnut cheese; En Cheng Ju straw mushroom chicken soup and beef in oyster sauce; Quanjude's roast duck, fried duck liver and four treasures of duck are not comparable to other restaurants.
In addition, many restaurants also have their own specialties, such as set soup at Houmenqiao; Xianju fresh fish fried liver; Jiaozi, whose ears are stuffed with mushrooms; Fried wonton in Bai Jing Building of Coal Market Bridge; The Fried Triangle of Qianmen Street; White meat paved with tofu in the meat market; Roast beef in a barbecue bowl in Xuannei; The pot-stewed taste of Xisi casserole house; Roast chicken in the old cheap square of Mishi Hutong. In the past, some dishes have long since disappeared, such as the fried Yuanxiao in Jiuhexing (the predecessor of Dongxing Building), which is as white as a ball of cotton; Dong 'anmen Waibei Hexing Restaurant's tenderloin is as tender as tofu.
Restaurants and restaurants in old Beijing have first-class service, warm and thoughtful, and customers are satisfied. The service convention is much more complete than that of restaurants outside Beijing.
Anyone who goes to a restaurant, though frugal, always wants to eat more. Seven or eight friends need 10 kinds of dishes to be full, but no one wants to leave a lot, thinking it is a waste. Therefore, in the past, the plates and bowls in restaurants in Beijing were very small. Everyone had one or two dishes, and everyone only took one bite, so they ate too many samples. Besides, in the past, the purpose of restaurants was not to satisfy people. Except for the big dishes, everyone only eats two. If it is not enough, they can ask for more. Because I am not full, I want to eat next time. This is also a business trick.
In the past, when hosting a banquet in Beijing, the whole table was not prepared in advance, because it was not necessarily to the taste of the guests, so most of them reserved two big dishes that could not be cooked for the time being, such as shark's fin and duck, and the rest were ordered by the guests themselves, which was about 1 dish per person, or even four cold dishes and two big dishes were enough to eat. Compared with today, the rules of old Beijing restaurants are completely different. Now, waiters in restaurants always encourage customers to ask for more dishes, which are expensive and can't be packed away. Why doesn't the old Beijing restaurant pack? Because there is almost no food.
Waiters in old Beijing restaurants always report the dishes prepared by the host before receiving guests' orders. Please help yourself to the rest of the dishes. After everyone ordered 1 dish, the host still gave way, and the waiter said, "There are many dishes, let's eat first, it's not enough." These two sentences really cover everything. How can people who treat you be unhappy?
Also, customers eat leftovers, and people at the counter are not allowed to eat in big restaurants. This is a small matter, but it matters a lot. Because he eats leftovers, he can cheat in the case of irregular operation and ask for another dish, saying that this is what the guests want. He didn't bring it to the table when the guest paid, so he ate it himself. Once upon a time, restaurants were spacious and had many houses, so it was difficult to find such shortcomings. This is not only harmful to cabinets, but also harmful to guests. Therefore, in the past, the leftovers of big restaurants were sold to vendors. When he cooks in the pot, there are fat slices, pig blood, tofu, pig water and so on. In the pot, he picked it out and sold it to the poor who were selling rickshaws and tricycles at that time. He picked a piece of meat and wrote it down as a copper coin. After eating, it is commonly known as "staring at food": he looks for diced meat in the soup pot and eats it with steamed buns.
At that time, the waiters were also trained in speaking. The waiter on the "mouth" works closely with the person in charge of the kitchen, of course, each has its own emphasis. The waiter is not only skilled, but also knows all kinds of manners, so they look down on the waiter and call him "wiping the pendulum" A good waiter not only knows manners, but also knows how to shout loudly, which can be heard clearly in several greenhouses, especially when celebrating birthdays. First of all, he must be familiar with the victim's relationship and friends, respectful and courteous, close to the elderly, responsive, resourceful, diligent and eloquent, and the waiter is called a "gift seller".
Restaurant waiters are also well trained. Most of them are from Shandong, either Yantai or Jinan. They are neither arrogant nor arrogant when answering customers' questions, so they naturally have to listen to each other's suggestions, and sometimes they have to refuse each other's suggestions. But contradicting the customer can not only make him like listening, but also make him feel happy. This is impossible and unexpected for restaurants outside Beijing.
Managing classes is a science. For example, as soon as a customer enters the door, someone gets up to meet him. "Teacher Zhong is here!" "The third master is coming!" He knew the ranking of the guests, because there was a small floating population in Beijing at that time, and restaurant customers liked to go to the places he was used to. When ordering, the waiter will interrupt: "Third Master, don't eat shrimp, it's not fresh!" " He will provide information: "The crucian carp has just opened the bag and weighs one catty." After a period of consultation, a suitable menu was worked out. Customers don't need to ask what kind of wine to use. The waiter called the restaurant where customers usually have contacts: "The third master of XXX Hutong came and sent three pounds of wine." The yellow wine used by Third Master is delivered at the price of 1 kg, which is correct. When customers leave, there are farewell shouts all the way from the entrance to the cashier's office, just like officials shouting. Later, I got into the habit of shouting the amount of silver in small accounts, not for the honor of customers, but to make the number of small accounts public and prepare to get together and distribute them equally to prevent personal malpractice.
When the food didn't come, the customer asked, "Why doesn't the food always come?" The waiter said, "the temperature is not suitable, so I can't serve it to you." I can come later and get some scolding. I can't serve it without being scolded. You can wait a little. " If the food hasn't come yet, customers will impatiently pick up chopsticks and knock on the plate. In the past, this was a very serious matter, which showed a bad attitude towards guests. As soon as the treasurer heard the sound of knocking on the plate, he had to apologize in person. Then someone hung up the curtains to show the customer that the attendant on duty was going out with his bedding-he was fired. In fact, he went out the front door and came back from the back door. Recalling the past events of kitchens, restaurants and restaurants is a kind of spiritual comfort and enjoyment, with a view to enlightening the catering industry today.