When it comes to Chongqing cuisine and Chengdu cuisine, mainlanders may not understand it. Aren't they all Sichuan dishes? In fact, the big ones all look similar, and the varieties of dishes are similar. But in the eyes of the people in this province, it is very different.
The food in Chongqing, like the geography of Chongqing, like mountains and rivers, has a tendency to swallow everything. Chengdu cuisine, like the gurgling stream in front of the bamboo grove yard, has the beauty of a small jasper. This connotation makes Chengdu chefs and Chongqing chefs very different even if they cook the same dish.
Compared with the first gold medal of Sichuan cuisine, Sichuan cuisine is softer, with moderate sugar, vinegar, pepper and noodle sauce, and the overall feeling is more palatable. Sichuan-style pork in Chongqing is a little crispy, but the seasoning is harder and the overall feeling is more pleasant. However, this smell is generally not felt by outsiders.
Chongqing people like excitement, and there is a lawless straightforward culture in it. The diet is unconventional, and chefs don't like to cook according to recipes, so they often indulge in all kinds of new dishes. These new dishes are generally created by Jianghu chefs without formal training.
Chengdu people like elegance in life, and there is a flowing petty bourgeoisie culture in it. Guests who eat should pay attention to authenticity, and the chef dare not neglect it. Chefs in Chengdu are very particular about meat selection, slicing, ingredients and cooking time. Every restaurant wants to claim that its chef is a formal graduate of Sichuan University. Chengdu cuisine is more elegant, refined and refined.
If I invite a well-dressed friend, I will treat him to Chengdu cuisine. More tasteful. If I invite my well-dressed friend, I will invite him to a special celebration. It is more delicious.
Chongqing gourmet innovation
Chongqing people unconditionally support innovative dishes. Since 1980s, a large number of Jianghu dishes have appeared in front of Chongqing people. Some of them did not stand the test of Chongqing people and gradually disappeared. However, those who have withstood the test generally have to spread to Chengdu first, and then to the north and south of the river. For example, there are more than ten kinds of famous dishes in Chongqing.
Chongqing hotpot. Jianghu dishes with a long history are said to have been invented by Yangtze River stalkers, fishermen and porters. There are many kinds of hot pots, the most famous of which is beef omasum hot pot, followed by eel hot pot, seafood hot pot, fish head hot pot, mutton hot pot, dog meat hot pot, Yuanyang hot pot and so on.
Jiangjin fish with Chinese sauerkraut. Starting from the roadside food store in Zhu, Jiang Jinfu Town, Chongqing, it served drivers coming and going, and then drivers spread all over Chongqing. 1988 became popular. I am good at this dish.
Geleshan spicy chicken comes from Geleshan Town, Shapingba District, Chongqing, and a roadside shop named Lin Zhongle made its debut. 1990 became popular. Diners' pleasure is to find crispy diced chicken as big as soybeans in a large pot of peppers. This shop is located in Geleshan, a forest park in Chongqing, near the famous official residence of Chiang Kai-shek in Chongqing (it is said that if you don't visit the forest park, it is not Chongqing, but this place is not open), and tourists and diners form the current spicy chicken street. I am good at this dish.
Beer duck. It comes from a roadside food store 7 kilometers away from Nan 'an District, Chongqing. It is said that the inventor was inspired by Guizhou. 1992 became popular. The practice is to stew a duck with a bottle of beer, which is more spicy and delicious. At its peak, this shop used thousands of ducks every day, but now it is going downhill.
Spring chicken from Nanshan Town, Nan 'an District, Chongqing. 1993 became popular. The method used is to kill the live chicken quickly and then burn it violently. The time from killing the chicken to cooking cannot exceed 5 minutes. This dish comes from the so-called "
Nanshan is the highest mountain city. Therefore, a Spring Chicken Street was formed and a Spring Chicken Festival was held.
From Taian Chongqing, Taian Town, Tongnan County, Chongqing. 1994 became popular. It is also spread and popular by drivers. However, this dish is more skillful and not easy to fake, so it is not as popular as other dishes. My wife is good at this dish.
Hotpot fish from Lianglu Town, Jiangbei District, Chongqing. At first, it was also aimed at drivers and friends. 1996 became popular. Hotpot fish is also particularly fierce. This fish is about 10 kg of fat fish, and it is cut into palm-sized pieces. Burn a large wok like a jar and iron. After cooking, serve it out in a big footbath, which is red and hot. A circle of people surrounded the big basin and fished fish with beer bottles. Cook some vegetables and tofu after eating, which is especially crisp and tidy.
Boiled fish. In fact, the predecessor of boiled fish is hot pot fish. After the hot pot fish spread, many restaurants in the city began to imitate it, but the kitchens of these restaurants could not get a big iron pot and burn the fire like iron. In addition, it is not convenient for diners to eat 10 Jin of fish. Therefore, it is made into a small pot, a small fire and a small fish. It is called boiled fish. But personally, I don't think there is a hot pot fish like wide soup, fierce fire and fat fish.
Spicy crab. This dish should have been invented by a restaurant in Chongqing. Because Jianghu restaurants don't involve high-end things like crabs. However, like Chun Xue in Chongqing, Spicy Crab is still not successful in Jianghu. 1996 became popular.
Bullfrog with pickled peppers. 1996 became popular. First the bullfrog, then the pickled cuttlefish. And derived a variety of pickled pepper series. This dish has also been handed down from restaurants.
Stewed duck with sour radish. Use very sour pickled radish, which is specially brewed and not available in other provinces. It usually takes half a year to soak, and the longer the better. There are many varieties of this dish, such as sour cowpea stew, pickled mountain pepper stew, stewed mutton, stewed chicken and so on. 1996 became popular.
Crucian carp in the postal kiosk. From Youting Town, Dazu County, Chongqing. 1997 became popular. There are many seasonings, and the way to eat is exquisite.
Wujiang fish in Fuling area of Chongqing. Wujiang River flows through Fuling and Qianjiang areas in Chongqing with many tributaries, which can produce all kinds of wild fresh fish. The practice of Wujiang fish is to pay attention to the freshness of fish, but it is generally cultured fish in cities, so catfish (sticky fish) is generally used to make Wujiang fish in cities. 1998 became popular.
Mao comes from Ciqikou Town, Shapingba District, Chongqing, a small town that preserves the ancient pier culture in Chongqing. Boil tripe, blood slices (eel) and duck blood tofu together. It was also spread by poor dockers. These years are quite hot.
The above are some typical and popular innovative dishes. In addition, there are many kinds of Laifeng fish, Qiuxi catfish, Chengkou roasted bacon, Qianjiang sour soup fish (also available in Guizhou), Nanchuan bamboo shoot meat, Wulong Mountain Scenic Resort mushroom roasted pheasant, bandit chicken and so on.
Generally, after an innovative dish comes out, the first few shops are circulated by drivers and friends, then crowded, and then become popular in the city like a gust of wind. Everything you know, you must taste according to your impatience.
These dishes in Chongqing have some common characteristics, that is, they are generally created by Jianghu chefs, and the raw materials and production are more popular. Unlike Chengdu, Zhangcha duck needs to be steamed and smoked several times, and most people can't afford it. The cooking methods of Chongqing cuisine are generally big oil, strong ingredients (some dishes have more peppers than vegetables), fire, large pots and pots, and now we pay attention to killing and cooking. It is also rude to eat, such as spring chicken, chicken head, chicken neck and chicken liver mixed into a big pot, and sometimes chicken feathers can be seen, which is more in line with Chongqing people's lawless psychology and rude and straightforward personality.
Improvement of Chengdu cuisine
Chengdu cuisine is far from innovative. Feng fish head seems to be the most famous and popular dish in China, but it is actually an improvement of fish head hot pot. Therefore, there are few popular dishes in Chengdu, and Chongqing cuisine often maintains a leading position. For example, boiled fish is very popular in Beijing now, and even the small northeast restaurant downstairs has grandly launched their boiled fish. It makes people feel that boiled fish is as deadly as a strong flu.
However, Chengdu cuisine has been excavating the ancient treasure house of Sichuan cuisine and constantly summarizing and improving it. From material selection, cooking, service and management, all-round continuous improvement. This improvement is not an improvement of a chef's personal consciousness, but a continuous improvement based on the continuous accumulation of national consciousness.
Since the Han Dynasty, diners in Chengdu have always paid attention to the artistic conception, experience and perfection of diet. Li Bai (Jiangyou people, Jiangyou is 0/50 kilometers away from Chengdu/Kloc-and rarely travels to Chengdu) has a feeling of being apart from the city when drinking alone, which Chongqing people who like to drink heavily in the street will not have. Dongpo pork invented by Su Shi (Meishan, 80km south of Chengdu) takes three hours to stew, and Chongqing people who like to eat it raw will not have the patience.
If you want to eat authentic Sichuan-style stir-fry, the restaurants in Chengdu will not be too bad, and they are all consistent, and the cleanliness is one order of magnitude higher than that in Chongqing. But in Chongqing, it will be full of all kinds of tricks. Fried pork, some restaurants in Chongqing put dried tofu, some put lettuce heads, and some put cabbage. In short, the chef can put whatever he likes. As for the choice of seasonings, it is even more varied. And all the restaurants in Chengdu are green garlic seedlings. If there are no green garlic seedlings, he will tell you that Sichuan pork can't be fried. This will surprise Chongqing people.
Chengdu people carefully summarize the frying method of each side dish. A chef in Chengdu can sum up a method of frying Sichuan-style pork. He can write 10,000 words, teach you for 30 days, and then pass it on from master to master. A Chongqing chef summed up the method of Sichuan-style fried pork, which is three words: meat, pepper, watercress, and everything else. You eat a dried spinach in a street shop in Chengdu. It smells delicious.
Crisp and refreshing, with a long aftertaste. When you leave Chengdu and travel all over the country, you won't be able to eat such good fried vegetables. Chengdu people say it is difficult to stir-fry vegetables, but no one in Chongqing agrees, because they have not studied it as deeply as Chengdu people. Fried vegetables in Beijing are even less worth mentioning.
When I was still studying in Chengdu, I had to walk twice a week to eat boiled water in a small restaurant. The small restaurant is not big and there are not many people. A shy girl from western Sichuan stood in the counter, and then gently came over and asked her what she wanted. I usually want a rice, a bowl of rice, a bowl of tofu and a dish of pickles. Then the girl gently brings you food, and then gently walks away. Boiled in white is very good. The meat and sprouts are carefully selected, not to mention the steaming temperature. Zhenzi rice (a steamed rice method in Chengdu, which puts rice in wooden barrels and has a special flavor) is always hot and soft. I am enjoying myself quietly, and the leisurely feeling is like drinking with the moon alone. Similarly, eating in Chongqing, the pungent tension is like eating in prison.
I don't like crispy rice and sliced meat very much. What's delicious about crispy rice and sliced meat? But I am in Anren Town, Chengdu (that is, the hometown of big landlord Liu Caiwen, 60 kilometers away from Chengdu), where the crispy rice made by small restaurants is very delicious. The restaurant there is very small, and the storefront of the western Sichuan wooden house along the ancient green slate is very clean. The shopkeeper put the prepared raw materials on a big table, fresh as if they were still growing in the field an hour ago. What do you want to eat? If you don't have a menu, just look at this case and choose. When they make crispy rice slices, they will carefully select magnolia slices and mushrooms (mainly relying on these two things to enhance the flavor) to make fresh soup. The cooking temperature of crispy rice and sliced meat is just right. After pouring the soup oil, after the roaring fire, the rest is the fragrance of the house. On a rainy night, after a 60-kilometer ride, we enjoyed delicious crispy rice slices. This is really great and unforgettable. After that, I rode my bike three times in a row. It's a pity that such a famous dish tastes like chewing wax outside Chengdu. Because no one studies the hardness of rice crust, the tenderness of meat slices and the delicacy of soup oil as carefully as Chengdu people do. Even the serving method plays a key role in the quality of crispy rice slices.
Therefore, compared with Chongqing people, Chengdu people are really a heaven and an underground. Every dish, Chengdu people should carefully summarize, what ingredients to choose, what pot to use, what fire to burn, how to set the plate, how to serve, how to arrange the table and so on. All these have been carefully and thoughtfully examined. On the other hand, no matter what dishes Chongqing people cook, they always bring you a big pot, and the waiter's thumb is soaked in the soup. Although generous, the hidden carelessness can be imagined.
The basis of Excellence in Chengdu cuisine is actually summary. Therefore, the advantages of Chengdu cuisine are reflected in some small home-cooked dishes and snacks. Speaking of snacks in Chengdu, it is true that Chengdu people have come to this appearance after decades of improvement and summary. For example, the pork intestines powder in Qingshiqiao, the couple's lung slices in Tudor Street/Zhong Kui, the dragon wonton in Chunxi Road, Mapo tofu, etc., have all been patiently summarized and improved by several generations. Xue Tao's dried bean curd method of Jiuyanqiao is said to have been handed down by dissatisfied female poets in the Tang Dynasty, which is very suitable for vinegar girls who like to gnash their teeth. There are many kinds of snacks handed down from generation to generation in Chengdu. If you want to eat once, it is estimated that it will take 1 month. Chongqing snacks, on the other hand, are much inferior, that is, those things, which were brought by foreigners during the Anti-Japanese War, such as Lingtangyuan and Hangzhou steamed buns, are not as good as before and are gradually disappearing. Because the traditional method has been lost by the Chongqing people who took over. Chongqing people have no patience to sum up these experiences. It is said that Zhu, who created pickled fish, has been doing business for several years, but he is still guarding three old tile houses on the roadside, expecting customers who are not enthusiastic to visit.
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