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"My Shanghai braised pork" Shanghai braised pork
One day, at the banquet of "Shanghai 1", a pot of meat was served, and the braised pork was still trembling slightly. Huang Jianhua, an old foodie in Shencheng, ignored his wife's dissuasion and stuffed a piece of the fattest meat into his mouth. I guess that piece of braised pork rich in oil must have melted in the mouth, and the honey poured out. It was delicious and enjoyable.

The cooking methods of braised pork in Shanghai and Jiangsu are slightly different. The sauce color is thick and light, the taste is crisp and hard, the taste is sweet and salty, the knife is big and small, and the soup is wet and dry. My grandmother's braised pork was brought from her hometown of Kunshan by Wu Craft. The cooked meat is half immersed in the sauce, which is sweet, delicious and unforgettable. Grandma is sometimes ingenious and puts a few cloves of garlic to decorate it. White garlic is like Gu Tian Zi Yu, very waxy! Pour the braised pork sauce on Kunshan rice, and the crystal-clear rice grains look better than pearls. Take three bites and two bites, and then tear them off in a bowl of rice. When I was a child, I liked to finish my meal first, then taste braised pork slowly, and finally add fresh juice to the bowl. Enough to eat! However, in the past, braised pork was not eaten casually, and it was not eaten until the Spring Festival or when guests came home.

In the old society, my father was famous for cooking braised pork in the old alley of Maris, and several neighbors learned from him to cook pork. His meat selection tips: buy "hard gluten meat" with tendons, and the meat with the fifth and sixth tendons is the most fragrant from top to bottom; The coquettish breast meat must be cut off completely; Braised pork with boneless ribs is not fragrant enough, fishy enough and not desirable; Don't be too young, choose a pig with handsome figure and smart mind, a pig with rotten eyelids and triangular eyes, and the meat is definitely not good. It doesn't matter if you have black hair, white hair or yellow hair, because the pork was raised by farmers in those days, and there is no confusion of "clenbuterol". Pick a layer of fat with a thin layer of pork belly and scrape the skin clean, otherwise you won't enjoy the delicious collagen-rich pigskin stuck to your mouth when eating meat. Of course, it is best to cook braised pork with thick fat.

The knife cutter who cuts meat is very particular. Never cut into pieces or shapes of different sizes. Cut into seals and other squares, about 3 cm wide, with subcutaneous bones on it, and the appearance is even. I have studied that a perfect bowl of braised pork should be full of color, fragrance, taste and shape. If you add any auxiliary materials such as bamboo shoots and hairy bamboo shoots, the color of the meat will become lighter, the taste of the meat will be greatly reduced, and the gravy will be turbid, and the original flavor of the braised meat will not be tasted. Instead, it is bamboo shoots, hairy bamboo shoots, dried tofu and stewed vegetables ... What if some people say that the juice in the meat is too oily? Solution: After the meat is cooked, put it in a bowl, pour the gravy back into the pot, and add dried bean curd, bamboo shoots, oily bean curd, etc. Cook it and put it in another bowl.

When you are in cook the meat, you should first put the meat in boiling water to remove the dirty blood and foam, and then pick it up. Add water, onion ginger, cooking wine, red soy sauce and other condiments, boil over high fire, and then stew over low fire; Like cinnamon, fennel, orange peel and other spices can also put some; Cook the meat had better not add water halfway, but do it all at once. Time, duration and quantity of water are all critical. When the braised pork is cooked until the meat is crisp and hard, "put sugar paste (the key to making braised pork)", at this time, the soup is 30% of the meat; Pick out the original onions, ginger and so on. Then put some onion slices cut into 5cm long, add appropriate amount of sugar, and "paste" with strong fire. Sugar can be hung fresh and chemically reacted, and the oil in the meat will squeak out, just like the "kiln change" of burning ceramics. At this time, the fat wrapped in gravy becomes transparent, moist and soft, and the lean meat sauce is bright red and delicious, hard outside and soft inside, and chewy.

Braised pork is best served in a white porcelain bowl. The skin is red, the onion tube is white, the fat is slightly transparent, and the sheep fat is like jade. Tap your hand on the table and the meat in the bowl will vibrate and dance. This is the braised pork cooked in place! Remember, don't cook it too rotten and crisp. Putting it in a bowl with a pile of rotten meat will ruin the appearance of your figure.

At present, the braised pork in the restaurant is put in a big earthen pot with boiling water under it to keep warm. There are more than a dozen square pieces of meat in the pot, with accessories at the bottom. Look at this stunt. It's good. It tastes delicious when you take a bite, and the sweetness is full and thick. The meat inside is still white and hard, not fresh at all. People who eat regularly will immediately understand that this is the reason why the temperature is not in place. No wonder the white-haired stupid pig is big, full of lean meat, sleepy all day, unable to think, lacking exercise, thin fat and thick lean meat, putting the cart before the horse, and without fragrance. By the way, how many chefs are the masters of braised pork in old Shanghai now?