Exploring Dragon Boat Festival: Our ancestors salted duck eggs
(1) One of the Dragon Boat Festival Huang Wu: The "Five Elements Theory" of salted duck eggs is one of the core theories of Chinese medicine. Traditional Chinese medicine believes that "four seasons, five zang-organs and five colors" have a corresponding relationship, and there is a saying that "five colors nourish five zang-organs". The ancients believed that the Dragon Boat Festival on the fifth day of May was the day with the highest yang in a year, so we should eat "yellow" food to detoxify and control evil spirits. Therefore, China people have the custom of "eating zongzi and Huang Wu" on the Dragon Boat Festival. The so-called "Huang Wu" refers to "cucumber, yellow croaker, eel, salted duck eggs and realgar wine". Note 2 "Yellow" of "salted duck egg" definitely refers to "yolk". When I was a child, one of my expectations for the Dragon Boat Festival was to eat delicious "salted duck eggs", especially the yolk that looked like crab roe with red oil. Gently clip chopsticks, the aroma is diffuse, the entrance is salty and delicious. After so many years, salted duck eggs are still my favorite There are always more than a dozen "stocks" in the refrigerator. When you are in a hurry or no one is cooking, cut a salted duck egg into a big bowl of rice, which is delicious and quick. Eating clay pot rice outside, the perfect match must be salted duck eggs. (2) Biography of Salted Duck Eggs China people have a long history of eating salted duck eggs. Archaeologists found a jar of salted duck eggs more than 2500 years ago in the mound tomb of the Western Zhou Dynasty in Huatou Village, Jurong, Jiangsu Province. The earliest document that recorded salted duck eggs was Shu: Raising Goose and Duck in Qi Shu: Making Shuttlecock Method in the Southern and Northern Dynasties: "The rate is two buckets, with heat and salt." The juice is extremely cold, and the ducks are soaked in the jar and can be eaten in January. Dipped duck can be eaten in January and cooked, and can be used for wine making and tableware. At that time, it was pickled with the juice and salt of Castanopsis eyrei bark, so it was called salty Castanopsis eyrei. There are also records in the notes of the Song and Yuan Dynasties: Lu You's Notes on the Old Learning Temple in the Southern Song Dynasty: Qi Shu's method of dyeing duck eggs with salty and sweet Castanopsis eyrei bark. Today, it is also an ancient method for Wu people to dye the roots of Polygonum cuspidatum. Yuan Tao Zong Yi's Record of Dropping out of Farming: Xianjuzi is called Xianjuzi. Now people make duck eggs with rice soup, salt and grass ash. According to "Qi Shu Yao Min", the bark of Lirong was flooded, hence the name. Last year, archaeologists also found salted duck eggs on the sunken ship Nanhai 1 in the Song Dynasty. This shows that salted duck eggs are delicious, convenient and easy to carry, and they are also home-cooked dishes of the ancients. Quote: Note 4: Salted duck eggs belong to Gaoyou City, Jiangsu Province, and Gaoyou salted eggs became famous in the Song Dynasty. Gaoyou salted eggs are made from Gaoyou duck eggs, a famous bird in China: some historical celebrities such as Qin Guan and others. Playwrights and gourmets in the Qing Dynasty recorded in the Food List with the Garden that Gaoyou preserved eggs are the best, with delicate color and rich oil, and they are the favorite food of Gaowenduan Palace. During the dinner, first take it to honor the guests and put it on a plate. Cutting the shell, yellow and white, is always desirable; Don't leave it yellow and turn white, so the taste is not complete and the oil is scattered. Wang Zengqi, a writer in Gaoyou, Jiangsu Province, not only cooks well, but also writes excellent food prose. His writing style is simple and interesting to read, as good as Liang Shiqiu's food prose. In the article "Duck Eggs at Dragon Boat Festival", Mr. Wang still remembers the salted duck eggs he ate at Dragon Boat Festival as a child: Note 6 shows that a perfect salted duck egg has three characteristics: oil, Huang Liang and sand. Third, the rotten duck egg preserved egg Many gourmets prefer a kind of "rotten duck egg" that has been preserved for a long time-cut with a knife, the yolk overflows with red oil, the outer layer of the yolk has turned slightly green, and a hard "bead" has solidified in the middle. This is the essence of the rotten duck egg. Protein, on the other hand, has a faint taste and tastes like stinky tofu. As shown in the following figure, rotten duck eggs have a smelly protein, and the middle part of the yolk is hard and waxy. According to Compendium of Materia Medica written by Li Shizhen in the Ming Dynasty, rotten duck eggs can occasionally cure children's dysentery. Volume 47 of Compendium of Materia Medica: It is said that children suffer from dysentery, and the rotten salted duck eggs are eaten by them, and sometimes they are cured. In today's statistics, Li Shizhen's phrase "sometimes there is healing" is "incomplete induction", there is no "causality", only "correlation". This is also one of the places where Chinese medicine has been criticized. "Smelly" is not unique to China people. For example, there are long-haired cheeses in the west and herring that can smell bad smell 300 kilometers away. It can be seen from the food program "Flavor World" directed by Chen Xiaoqing that Swedes must have a "high-energy warning" before eating smelly herring, otherwise it will be a "nuisance". The picture is quoted from "Flavor House". Salted duck eggs and rotten duck eggs, which are common, cheap and easy to get in China, are actually the "patents" of China people. It seems that westerners don't eat duck eggs. Westerners eat egg products and usually have bacon and fried eggs for breakfast, or bake egg tarts and cakes. I think duck eggs have a strong taste and are not suitable for western cooking. I remember once, the eggs at home were finished, and there happened to be fresh duck eggs that were not preserved. I tried to make poached eggs with duck eggs, but I couldn't eat them, and they were very strong! So "duck egg dish" is a typical Chinese dish. Because duck eggs are not suitable for "fresh eating", people in China use pickling and deterioration to remove the fishy smell. Wenda's global "dark cuisine"-preserved eggs, pickled, and pickled with lime, is called "devil's eggs" by westerners because it is green in black and has a peculiar "loose pattern": Mr. Bei, who has even eaten "raw seafood and exotic game", eats cockroaches without spitting intestines, and mice without spitting bones! Ye Bei eats preserved eggs. People in China regard preserved eggs as delicious food at home and think that preserved eggs can "clear fire", so I like preserved eggs very much. The IReport column of CNN once rated preserved eggs as the first "the most disgusting food in the world": Italy even called preserved eggs "unfit for human consumption": some white people are really a little sand sculpture, so why should they look at the world with their own rulers? "Preserved eggs are not suitable for human consumption", China people are not human? Stinky herring is really a food that smells worse than shit. French Viyo boulogne cheese has the "compound taste" of Hong Kong foot and carrion. Not to mention humans, I'm afraid Martians don't want to touch things: Swedish rotten herring, French rotten cheese. What do these white people think if we say in newspapers and TV that cheese and smelly herring are the most disgusting foods, and even they are not allowed to import them on the grounds that they are not suitable for human consumption? 3. There is an "ancestral" salted duck egg joke on the Internet: For China people, there are only two kinds of food in the world-edible and trying to become edible. Fresh duck eggs are not delicious. More than 2,000 years ago, in the Zhou Dynasty, China people began to pickle duck eggs to get rid of their bad smell, and turned them into delicious side dishes with red oil, salted sand and glutinous rice. In the Northern and Southern Dynasties, China people salted duck eggs with spices Castanopsis kawakamii bark and salt. During the Song and Yuan Dynasties, Gaoyou duck eggs were famous all over the world. At that time, ships sailing on the Maritime Silk Road continuously exported Chinese porcelain and silk overseas. Maybe a sailor brought salted duck eggs from his hometown before he set out, but this voyage was caught in a storm and he might be killed in the South China Sea. More than a thousand years later, we found those "salted duck eggs of the Song Dynasty" on the sunken ship Nanhai 1! The Dragon Boat Festival, a necessary salted duck egg for every family, is such an unremarkable Chinese dish with a history of thousands of years. This "ancestral salted duck egg" bears the history and has the flavor of China that we can't forget. China's cooking methods for duck eggs, such as salting, dregs and lime brine, have found a good "home" for duck eggs. In addition, the bamboo tube noodles in Guangdong are made of fresh duck eggs, but no water is added. Using the lever principle, it may be a "miracle" to make a rolling pin out of very long bamboo. Bamboo noodles have no fishy smell and are very elastic. The surface of bamboo is made of long bamboo. Archimedes tilted the earth with a lever, and we made the surface with a lever! Refer to Mars. (20 1 1). Study on the cultural spirit of the Dragon Boat Festival. (Doctoral thesis, Shanghai Normal University). Ye dabing. (1990). China Customs Dictionary. Shanghai Dictionary Publishing House. Page 135. Tian, Hao Minghua, Zhou Runken, Zhang. (2007). Brief report on excavation of d2 and d6 tombs in Huatoudun, Jurong County, Jiangsu Province. Cultural relics (7), 20-38. Guangdong TV, electric shock news (20 19), salted duck eggs in the song dynasty look like this! There are as many as 6.5438+0.6 million pieces of cultural relics (videos) on the Nanhai No.1 ship. The latest archaeological discovery and excavation report has not been published in China National Intellectual Property Administration (20 19) and Gaoyou salted duck eggs, from://cgi.gov./products/detail/1197/. 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