Problem description:
Please help me find the useful information of Chaoshan congou tea ~ This is the material of my thesis ~ Please help me ~!
Please help me find the useful information of Chaoshan congou tea ~ This is the material of my thesis ~ Please help me ~!
Analysis:
Chaoshan kungfu tea
Chaoshan congou tea is one of the most distinctive dietary customs in Chaoshan. Mr. Zhang Huayun once wrote "Chaoshan congou Tea Song":
Fujian and Guangdong are connected, and there are endless marriages. Five mothers are suitable for Chen San, and litchi is cut. Fujian tea shows the east of Guangdong, Tieguanyin tea is famous far and wide, buds turn to dust, and ropes are graceful. Forty pounds, three cups break even. Hipsters are rich and poor, and they are addicted to tea. Harmony, love, precision, cleanliness and thinking are invincible in tea ceremony. Water, fire, utensils, cooking and drinking are all vivid. Boil water in a thin pot and burn the core in a mud furnace. The pot pushes Chen Meng small, and the cup is deep and clean. West Lake Shengquan, Pu Sang Longquan Liquid. Four-finger flywheel, scrubber clean and hot. The soft strip is surrounded by fine powder. Wash off the foam first. Guan Yu toured the city, and Han Xin ordered the soldiers to surrender. A pot of dry tea is ripe, and there is no crumb after drinking it. A bugle call is made of leather, and its fragrance is overflowing. Two or three rushes are meat, and the fragrance leaves teeth and cheeks. The four forests are extremely cloudy, and the breeze gives birth to two armpits. My mind is full of whimsy, and my stomach is clear. Bandits cure thirst alone, and summer is prosperous and winter is endless. There is not a day when you can't live, and all evils are easy. Hipsters travel far and wide, leaving marks everywhere. I met people from my hometown, and I am a stranger from other places. * * * three or two cups, exchange hometown news. Homesickness begins with mang perch, and homesickness is like glue paint. Know that congou tea is the most cohesive. In the past, when people opened their doors, they all gained in the past dynasties. It is a tea culture, and it is the essence of the whole world.
First of all, tea, Phoenix Dan Cong.
People in China have been drinking tea for a long time. Tea picking has been mentioned in the Book of Songs. After the Han Dynasty, drinking tea was very popular, but it was still in the Tang Dynasty, when there were already "tea parties" and "tea banquets". Lu Yu wrote the Book of Tea, which concentrated the theory of tea drinking, initiated a generation of tea drinking, and became a tea god himself. Jia Chao Yue Feng Ji said: "The cooking method of Kung Fu tea is based on Lu Yu's Tea Classic, and the utensils are more exquisite. One porcelain dish per furnace, the number of cups depends on the number of guests. First, stir-fry the spring water storage tank with fine charcoal until it boils, pour Fujian tea into the pot, cover it and pour it on it repeatedly. Then, pour it out and sip it carefully. The smell is fragrant and clearer than chewing plum blossoms. " It can be seen that in the Qing Dynasty, Chaoshan congou tea was very common, and the program was very similar to modern congou tea. "Pour Fujian tea in the pot" refers to Tieguanyin produced in Fujian. In fact, Phoenix Mountain also produces famous tea, which is called "Phoenix Dan Cong". Unfortunately, nothing is mentioned in the article. According to "Chaozhou Fuzhi", "Guangdong does not produce tea, but the products it gives are in Fujian. There are many plants in Baihua Mountain and Fenghuang Mountain near Raoping. Baihua Mountain is also known as Daizhao Mountain, so it is called Daizhao Tea, and the product is not evil. In Tai Po, cannabis, Yinna and other mountainous areas all produce tea, which is still drinkable. The tea in other places is bitter but not fragrant. " It can be seen that Fenghuang tea was planted in Chaozhou at the latest in the Qing Dynasty.
Among the tea produced in Chaoshan, phoenix theanine is famous for its fragrance, foam resistance and unique natural floral fragrance. This is closely related to the natural and geographical conditions of Fenghuang Mountain. Phoenix Mountain is located in the northeast of Chaozhou, at the junction of Raoping, Fengshun and Dabu counties, near the Tropic of Cancer. It's foggy all the year round, and the mountains are rolling. There are more than a dozen peaks above 1000 meters above sea level, among which the first peak in eastern Guangdong is Fenghuang Wujiding, and the second peak is Wuji Ding. Most famous teas are produced on the peak clouds. Secondly, Phoenix tea has a unique production method. Tea making here is divided into five processes: withering-fermentation-deactivation-rolling-baking, and each process has strict operation methods.
Phoenix tea has many varieties, different fragrance types and different quality with seasons, among which "Phoenix Dan Cong" is the best. "Phoenix Dan Cong" refers to those high-quality tea trees that have been tested for many years and have been identified as having different natural floral scents. In the production process, they are picked separately, preliminarily made and dried. Its production is particularly exquisite. It must be picked on a sunny and cool afternoon in spring 1━4. After picking, it must be piled up in the shade and then processed. You can't make the fragrance of dancong tea if you pick it in rainy days, morning fog or afternoon shade. Dan Cong tea has the best quality among the single clusters of Phoenix, and it is known as the "four unique" products of tangible beauty, green color and sweetness. When brewing, you can smell its fragrance a few steps away, with endless aftertaste.
Second, tea sets.
Tea drinking is popular all over the country. Why can Chaoshan congou stand out? The key lies in the word "time". The most important things of congou are "tea set" and "brewing method". The tea set of "congou" needs complete sets, including more than a dozen:
The teapot, called "Chong Guan" in Chaozhou dialect, is also called "Su Guan" because it comes from Yixing, Jiangsu Province and is the smallest teapot in Yixing. There is a four-word formula for choosing a teapot, which says "small, shallow, neat and old". Teapots are divided into two-person pots, three-person pots and four-person pots, among which Chen Meng, Tiehuagan, Qiupu, Calyx Garden, Xiaoshan and Yuan Xisheng are the most precious. There are many styles of pots, as small as oranges and as big as oranges, such as melon, persimmon, diamond, drum, plum blossom and chestnut. Generally, it is drum-shaped, because it is straight and thick. There are many colors of pots, such as cinnabar, antique iron, chestnut, purple mud, stone yellow, azure and so on. There is also a kind of pot with shiny silver sand and countless beads, commonly known as pomelo peel sand, which is the most precious. However, regardless of the style and color, the most important thing is to be "small but not big, shallow but not deep" because big is not "hard". In addition, we also pay attention to "the combination of three mountains", that is, the spout, spout and handle should be on a horizontal line, which is the most important criterion for evaluating the quality of teapot. The test method is to cover the teapot and put it on the table. If the teapot's spout, spout and handle are all flat, it is the top grade.
There are four words in the choice of teacups: small, shallow, thin and white. Small is a small mouth; Shallow water never leaves the bottom; White as jade sets off the color of tea; It smells as thin as paper. Chaozhou tea drinkers often treasure the "Ruoshen Cup" with blue and white background, wide flat bottom and books at the bottom. The small white porcelain cups produced in Jingdezhen, Jiangxi and Fengxi, Chaozhou are also the best in the cup.
Washing tea is as big as a bowl, with many shades. There must be three kinds of congou, one positive and two pairs: one is washing and making tea cups; Wash a bubble tank; The other is used to hold water and brewed tea in the washing cup.
There are also various styles of cups and saucers, such as full moon and chessboard. But no matter what style, it is important to be wide, flat, shallow and white. The disk is wide, so guests can put more cups when they are long; The bottom of the bowl is flat, which will not make the teacup shake unsteadily; The edges are light and white to set off the teacups and teapots and make them beautiful.
Tea mats, smaller than tea trays, are used to make pots. There are many kinds, but in short, it should be noted that "shallow in summer and deep in winter" is because it is convenient to fill more boiling water when pouring cans, so that tea will not get cold easily. There should also be a "mat" inside the tea mat. The function of "felt mat" is to protect the teapot. It is cut with loofah according to the shape and size of the tea mat. The reason why loofah is used instead of cloth is to ensure that there is no odor. After the tea leaves are spilled, turn the teapot upside down to avoid water accumulation in the pot.
Water bottles and bowls are used to store water for making tea. Water bottle, neck and shoulder hanging, flat bottom, handle, plain porcelain blue and white is the best. There is also a kind of dragon, whose mouth and neck are decorated with dragons, which is also a superior product. The water bowl is used to store the water for making tea. They are about the size of an ordinary flowerpot and have many styles. The "Red Gold Color" made in the Ming Dynasty depicts two goldfish at the bottom of the bowl with hardware glaze. When people scoop water, they stir it. This goldfish seems to swim with it, which is very interesting. However, this thing is very rare now. Generally, it is mostly plain porcelain blue and white, and it is placed on the tea bed and covered with a scarlet wooden cover, which is only seriously uncovered when scooping water.
There is a red commotion in the quiet kitchen. Chaoan, Chaoyang and Jieyang have all done it. The styles are very beautiful and the forms are different. It is characterized by being long, six or seven inches high, and the furnace core with charcoal is deep and small, which makes the temperature uniform and saves charcoal. The cooker has a cover and a door, so it is economical and convenient to close the cover when not in use. In addition, there is a kind of "sand pot", which is the most famous made by Fengxi in Chaoan, commonly known as "teapot". It is made of sand and mud, and it is very light. As soon as the water is boiled, the small lid will tilt and make a pleasant sound.
But now people are not so particular about kung fu tea sets. Unlike in the past, high-quality charcoal or elemental charcoal and mud stoves must be used to boil water.
Third, the brewing process
Gongfu tea has a very complicated procedure. According to the process, it is to treat utensils, take tea, wait for soup, make tea, scrape foam, pour pots, iron cups, make tea and so on.
The treatment device includes six actions: lighting fire, drawing fire, fanning furnace, cleaning device, waiting for water and pouring cup. "Wait for the water" and "pour the cup" mean that after the water in the sand bowl whizzes for a while, the sound suddenly decreases (that is, it will become "fisheye water"), that is, lift the sand bowl, pour the pot and cup, then put the sand bowl on the stove, and then serve tea: open the tea and pour it on the white paper. Because the fine powder is the most concentrated, drinking too much tea is easy to be bitter and it is easy to block the spout. If the thickness is set properly, the tea color can be uniform and the tea taste can be gradually exerted. You need a proper amount of tea. The teapot is the standard for making tea, and 70% tea is enough. If there are too many, not only Chata is thick and bitter, but also good tea leaves are mostly buds. If they are soaked in boiling water and stretched, they will become so big that even water can't rush in. But too little can't make a taste.
The Book of Tea says: "Soup is the life of tea. See boiling like a fish's eye, slightly audible. Stirrup edge is like beads, which is two-boiling. Make waves for the three boiling points. A boiling is too childish, which is called baby boiling; Three boiling is too old, called a hundred-year boiling; If the beads float on the water and sound loose, it is time. " At this time, the time to make tea is just right. Open the lid of the teapot and pour the boiling soup along the edge of the teapot. Don't rush into the pot directly, otherwise it will break through the "tea gall" and make the tea bitter. When you flush, lift the pot high. It is called "high enthusiasm and low enthusiasm". The high impact of boiling water on tea leaves makes the aroma of tea volatilize faster, but the tannin in tea element can't volatilize, so this kind of tea is not bitter. The water must be filled up to make the tea float, then the lid of the pot is lifted, the tea foam at the mouth of the pot is scraped off gently, then the lid is covered, and then the boiling water is poured on the pot. This is called "pouring the pot". The watering pot has three functions: first, it makes the hot air attack inside and outside, forcing the tea fragrance to evaporate quickly; Second, stop for a while, the water in the tank is completely dry, that is, the tea is hot; The third is to wash away the tea foam outside the pot. After pouring the can, pour the cup with boiling water, which can make the cup hot. Don't let the hot tea rush on the cold cup, which will affect the fragrance.
Tea has four words: low, fast, even and exhausted. Tea must not be high, high and slow lose fragrance, foam everywhere, disrespectful guests; "Fast" is to keep the fragrance from losing and keep the heat; "Evenly" means keeping the tea evenly in each small handle. This is called "Guan Yu patrolling the city, and Han Xin ordering troops". You shouldn't drink one cup after another. Only in this way can the colors of several cups of tea be even and show the same respect to the guests in the seat; "Doing" means not leaving the remaining water in the pot. Because as long as there is no water, tannins can't be dissolved and tea won't be bitter.
After the tea is rushed out, the tea maker usually doesn't drink it first, so please ask the guests present or others to drink it. If there are three cups on the plate, it is also very particular about which cup to take first. Generally, one cup is won first, and the last person takes the middle cup. If we indiscriminately take the middle one before taking the handlebars on both sides, it will be considered as disrespect not only for the owner, but also for others present. At the same time, after you finish one cup, you usually have to let everyone here finish one cup before you can drink the second round. If a distinguished guest comes in the process of drinking tea, you have to change the tea leaves and make tea again.