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The "dragon beard pearl porridge" that delighted Emperor Qianlong turned out to be a hodgepodge of leftovers!
In an era when there are no food evaluation and cooking programs, and transportation and the Internet are underdeveloped, how can a rural local dish hundreds of years ago "explode"? You have to tell stories.

The story of Emperor Qianlong's frequent trips to various places in the south of the Yangtze River is the most, which is like the emperor's evaluation of the ancient version of China cuisine. such

The Truth of Longxu Porridge ── Unexpected delicious leftover soup

Legend has it that Emperor Qianlong came to Luojia Village in Quanzhou during his southern tour. This is a poor village, and there is nothing delicious to serve the emperor at the dinner table. Just as the scholar's wife used her quick wits, she tried her best to dig out some pig bones and fish bones left before, cleaned them and threw them all into the pot to make soup. She added noodles and sweet potato powder, made a decent bowl of dried dragon and gave them a name.

However, as long as you read more stories of the same type, you will know that there are no official historical documents, and most of them are attached to the stories. However, seemingly absurd legends can indeed add color and fragrance to many remote local dishes, which is conducive to the popularization of local dishes. Just like the ancient supreme edition of Oriental Cuisine Guide, it is also an ancient case of "story-telling marketing"-as for whether the emperor himself really made an unannounced visit to the local area, no one will delve into it.

This kind of dragon beard pearl porridge is a mushy noodle that many people like to eat, and Quanzhou people in Fujian are even more hardcore supporters. Bread paste is the breakfast of many old Quanzhou people. Other places are baked wheat cakes and fried dough sticks steamed bread. They like a bowl of bread paste with a fried dough stick, which is the source of vitality for the whole day. There is a saying that "if you haven't eaten batter, you are not from Quanzhou." .

In addition to fine noodles and sweet potato powder, this snack can also add various ingredients such as large intestine, small intestine, shrimp, pig liver, squid, duck heart, tofu, marinated eggs, fried eggs, vinegar meat (fried pork slices), sausages, mushrooms and so on.

Good noodles are essential: delicious sea water and sweet bones.

The key to see whether a bowl of batter is qualified is soup. The qualified batter should be transparent in color, and the soup should be thick and mushy but not rotten, fresh and elegant, with the fragrance of seafood and bones. It is also an essential step to thicken the soup base with sweet potato powder. If the noodles are only cooked but not rotten, it is just ordinary noodle soup, not batter.

Regardless of Italian, Japanese or northern China, people who like noodles usually like to eat noodles that are more Q-tasting, chewy and elastic.

According to the different soup bases, the soup bases of Quanzhou batter are mainly small fish, fish bones and shrimps, which are delicious and light. Bone soup pie is made of pig bones, and the soup is thick and sweet. Although the soup base is slightly different now, the distinction between "fish soup pie" and "bone soup pie" is no longer obvious, and most of them are integrated.

The basic method is to wrap the shrimp shell in gauze, put it in a pot, add water and cook it for half an hour, then take out the shrimp shell soup and filter it for later use. Tear the cooked fish into shreds for later use; Boil the pork bone soup mixed with shrimp shell soup, slightly crush the noodles, put them into the soup pot, and season with salt and firewood fish powder. Then slowly scoop the sweet potato powder into the pot and keep pushing the spoon until the noodle line floats and the soup in the pot becomes mushy. Finally, according to everyone's preferences, add pickled large intestine, small intestine, all kinds of cooked food and fried dough sticks, and sprinkle with pepper, celery or coriander.

The upper thread is white and red (strictly speaking, caramel color). Caramel-colored noodles, like spaghetti and instant noodles, are people who come from the mainland to other parts of China to make a living. In order to facilitate carrying and long-term preservation, pasta is made by steaming or frying. When the white flour is cooked or fried at high temperature, the caramelization turns brown during dehydration. For example, in Taiwan Province Province, China, besides the white flour line used to symbolize the abundance of pig's trotters, the red flour line or large intestine flour line used by other larvae was first made by Minnan people who were forced to leave their homes to make a living.

Quanzhou Noodle Sauce was introduced into Taiwan Province Province of China in Qing Dynasty, and spread to all parts of Taiwan Province Province of China. According to the difference of materials in different places, different materials were added, which gradually evolved into a northern noodle with the head of chaiyu soup as the bottom and single ingredients such as large intestine and larvae as the ingredients. The Chinese flavor takes bone and firewood as soup, and large intestine, larvae, broth and small intestine as ingredients; With flat fish or firewood, crispy garlic, mushrooms, shrimp skin, etc. As a soup head, it has the most abundant ingredients such as large intestine, clams, broth, small intestine, fish and fish paste.

The seasoning sauce is black vinegar, Chili sauce, spicy oil, garlic paste and coriander. I lived in Kaohsiung when I was a child, because all I ate was fish soup, broth and noodle soup. Later, I couldn't get used to clam noodles in Taipei. When I eat noodle soup in Kaohsiung, I will add the special hot sauce in the store.

What I used to eat most often was a "Golden Dragon" noodle soup opened in Lingya Market in Kaohsiung. Besides noodle soup, its fried rice noodles, rice cakes and pig blood soup are also delicious.

There are fifteen processes, and the hand-made thread is unambiguous.

Most noodle soups in Taiwan Province, China use red noodles, and Lugang is the main producing area. Other handmade noodle making places include Muka and Wanhua in Taipei, Qingshui in Taiwan Province, China, Madou in Tainan, Chiayi Bao, Yanchao in Kaohsiung and Jinmen in the outer island. And still adhere to the traditional method of making noodles by hand and drying them in the sun.

The process of orthodox handmade noodles is very complicated, which can be subdivided into fifteen steps, namely: stirring, blocking, wrapping, dripping, draining, circling, opening, over-tailing, over-tailing, lifting, bowing, batch and packaging. That is to say, after kneading the dough, knead the thick stick into a round thin strip, wrap it around two sticks in an inverted figure of eight, then put it in the dough-waking groove to wake up, then stretch the dough slightly to about 150 cm, and wake up again.

Then, with the efforts of "pulling", "throwing", "pulling", "dragging" and "bouncing", the noodle thread is pulled to three or four meters, and then the semi-dry noodle thread is folded into the traditional "8" shape. The exposure time is about one day in sunny days and two or three days in cloudy days. After drying, it can be packaged and sold.

The noodle line centered on Lugang is soft in taste, while the noodle line in Kaohsiung is thick and chewy, and the taste is naturally sweet. The noodles in Jinmen are white like those in Quanzhou. Besides midges and large intestine, there is also pig blood. Mazu's old wine noodle line also uses white noodle line, and the ingredients are shredded pork, fried eggs and shredded radish. Not only will the shredded pork be marinated in old wine first, but also the fried eggs will be soaked in old wine first.