After a hard day's work, I got out of the station and saw the new subway advertisement in Shanghai. The natural birch forest is full of dry and golden autumn breath. Think about the autumn in the circle of friends recently. I owe you a travel note, which was finally handed in in 65438+February.
I want to see the brightest colors, listen to the most beautiful songs and be generous. I will go to Hulunbeier in October. The autumn in Hulunbeier is especially clear, quiet and sad.
Time: seven whole days.
Location: Not only the famous grassland scenery of Hulunbeier, but also the forests, rivers, wetlands, lakes and mountains of Hulunbeier.
Scenery: Reed marsh and red-crowned crane in Zhalong Wetland, Aershan Forest Park, long river of Xinbaerhu Grassland, sunset, lights in Manchuria, Feimazhuang in Montenegro, Jiuqu Ileum in Ergon Wetland, colorful town in Enhe, long birch in Wumeng 10th Committee, quiet and peaceful border crossing, mountains and autumn scenery in Mordaoga, and the first snow in Genhe Town of Oluguya tribe.
Travel mode: 1 1 Travel disdain chain-go back to your hometown and travel with a group. The second level of go on road trip is group travel.
Why don't you go home? Because I want to see the scenery of another country; Why not drive? I am embarrassed to drive five or six hundred kilometers a day; Why not leave the country? Because of poverty.
Last question, why choose Hulunbeier? Because there are few people, the West Lake during the Eleventh Five-Year Plan period is like this.
The Bund is like this.
Even the crescent spring is like this.
Seeing these news, you will be very glad that you have come to this place with few tourists.
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I dragged my suitcase from Shanghai to catch a plane. When I landed in Harbin, it was already 12: 30 in the afternoon. Harbin airport is far from the city. Seeing that I didn't eat, the taxi driver enthusiastically took out soda cookies to share with me. He likes this city very much.
The biggest advantage of joining the group is definitely peace of mind. The luckiest thing about my trip to Hulunbeier is that I followed a relatively good group. From accommodation to travel, from group members to scenic spots, I don't need to be picky. Even on the worst day in Aershan the next day, I was satisfied and couldn't help calling the rangers.
Imagination is free and easy. You run five or six hundred kilometers to a strange environment every day. While doing the scenic spot strategy, you have to find a comfortable foothold. Will waste a lot of energy. It's really better to take it out and explore the beauty of a strange environment, discover local food, and sit down and talk about the local countryside.
Day 1 Harbin-Zhalong Wetland-Zhalantun
Zhalong Wetland is famous for its red-crowned cranes. Red-crowned cranes are stationed in Zhalong Wetland in summer and fly from Zhalong Wetland to Yancheng in winter. After spending the winter there, they flew back the next year. Zhalong Wetland is located near Qiqihar City. I had a casual breakfast in the hotel, and when I left Harbin and passed Daqing, I could already see the endless grasslands/swamps on both sides of the road? Blue sky and white clouds, sunny, tadpoles jumping up and down, if I don't want to go on holiday, I'm sorry about the beautiful weather.
Autumn comes early in Daxinganling. During the Eleventh Five-Year Plan period, it was already late autumn. First feel the dry autumn sound reflected by the blue sky and white clouds in Zhalong Wetland.
(This picture came from a fellow traveler, and the source was not found, so it was deleted. )
At present, there are only about 2,000 red-crowned cranes in the world, and there are 346 in Zhalong Wetland. Unfortunately, the wild red-crowned crane has flown to Yancheng for the winter in June of 5438+00, and only the artificially raised red-crowned crane can be seen.
There will be a crane performance every two hours in Zhalong Wetland, mainly to train the flying ability of red-crowned cranes. I just took a casual look, but when a group of red-crowned cranes spread their wings and circled for nine days, a sense of openness sprouted in my heart.
At this time, the BGM in your mind turned out to be Master Park's Blue Lotus: the career is unconstrained and unconstrained, and the heart has no distractions.
(picture
Although Zhalong Wetland is famous for its red-crowned cranes, I prefer the endless reeds in autumn. It is said that there is the largest wetland in the north.
When the water meets, the golden reeds rustle in the wind, but shine in the sun. There is only one person left in the vast world, and reeds are on both sides of the road. There is wind in the cloud flight. In Zhalong Wetland, people can really stand as a thinking reed.
The reed wind is very strong, so you must wear windproof and warm clothes. 1 1 Hulunbeier is already very cold. Besides wearing thick clothes and preparing hats and gloves, shoes must be comfortable and warm. Don't ask me why. My eyes staring at Martin boots and snow boots with only a pair of loafers will tell you the answer.
I live in Zalantun at night. Because it was too cold during the day, I especially wanted to eat something hot, so the group decided to drink mutton offal soup.
Chunqiang authentic mutton soup kitchen is recommended (/shop/95 140 14). The master has a super conscience. A 48 yuan mutton offal soup, you can have unlimited soup and mutton offal. It's not tender at all. The mutton soup is tender, smooth and delicious. If you can add some potatoes, it will be warmer and more waxy.
From 0 10 to 10 10, I began to wash my eyes. From Zhalantun to Aershan National Forest Park, we walked through the autumn colors of birch and larch. Birch trees are like snow, pine trees are golden, and they stand upright in the mountains and plains. They have their own unique personality, and beauty seems to be dead.
(Walking through such scenery all day)
This is the most satisfactory photo taken on this trip. At the door of the humble toilet on the roadside, there is a king who closes his eyes and enjoys the autumn wind and autumn leaves. Behind him is a golden ocean. This is what autumn should look like.
Arrive at Aershan around 1 in the afternoon. It's really cold in the mountains, and winter comes earlier than other places. Fortunately, the first snow in Aershan this winter just fell the day before yesterday, and Aershan in the snow has a different taste. Unfortunately, the pine needles are almost finished, and the mountains and plains are already dark yellow, not the bright and strong golden yellow on the road.
Aershan National Forest Park is located on the west side of Daxing 'anling, belonging to volcanic lava landform. Due to volcanic eruption, lava blockage and water cutting, a series of truncated cone volcanoes and lava lakes with mosaic properties have been formed.
Tickets for Aershan Scenic Area are valid for 48 hours, including tickets and internal transportation. If you drive by car, you can apply for driving in. Because the scenic spot is too big, and the last bus in the scenic spot is at 4 pm, if you drive to Aershan, it is strongly recommended to drive into the park, which will make you walk less and be more free.
(map of aershan scenic spot)
Aershan has two main entrances, Chaihe and Aershan. We entered from Chaihe River and went to the Grand Canyon, the Tianchi Lake in Hump Ridge and the Dujuan Lake that day.
The Grand Canyon belongs to the volcanic lava fault zone. The canyon is full of dark volcanic rocks, and it is snowy in winter. Unfortunately, the scenic spot has closed the stairs leading to the canyon and can only be overlooked from the top of the mountain. Fortunately, the first snow in the forest, standing on thick pine needles, listening to the creaking sound of snow in early winter and watching the tender sunshine of remaining pine needles, has a unique flavor.
I wanted to take this opportunity to take a cool aerial photo, but the wind was so strong that Mavic's arm was broken on the first flight and he could only cry when he saw the big S-bend of the Ergon River. Friendly reminder, aerial photography is risky, so be careful when camouflage.
(Pretend to have aerial photography here)
Tianchi Ridge is a high lake formed by water in the crater. There is a deep pool surrounded by trees above the mountain. Because the sun shines in different directions, it will emit different sapphire colors. It is unique, independent and only feels beautiful.
Yan said that the Tianchi in the hump ridge is better than the Tianchi in Aershan, but in the eyes of their northeast people, both are big blisters, so if you have seen the Tianchi in Baitou Mountain, you don't have to expect too much from the two Tianchi in Aershan.
The last stop of the day was to meet Dufu Lake. The most beautiful time in Dufu Lake should be February and March. The azaleas in Shan Ye are like fire. It's snowing, and the snow reflects the azaleas. In October, you can only see the bare azaleas, and the rest can only be imagined.
I can't describe the sunset in Dufu Lake clumsily. I only saw a touch of sunset in the water, half of the river rustled and half of the river was red. Looking back at the opposite side, the new moon has just risen. I am flattered. Every sunset on this trip gives people a strong burning feeling.
Stay at Lanting Villa in Aershan Xing 'an Service Area at night. The accommodation environment in the mountains is not good. That's good, at least clean and tidy. There is an electric blanket under the bed and the room is warm enough. I specially tried the local specialties for dinner. Ants scrambled eggs. Ants taste a little sour. It is said that they can treat rheumatism and arthritis. Scrambled eggs are a little smaller. Although it tastes heavy, it really doesn't feel anything.
The next day Zhalantun-Aershan National Forest Park
When I get up in the morning, there is a thick layer of water droplets on the window. Pushing open the door, the air was dry and cold, and the breakfast stall at the door was steaming. If you can live like this in the mountains for a few days, you should be particularly comfortable and open. Due to the time problem, we didn't visit all the scenic spots in Aershan. Today I went to Shitang Forest, Santanxia and Wusu prodigal lake.
Tang Forest in Arsh is a relic left by Quaternary volcanic eruption, which was formed by magma flow after volcanic eruption. Looking around, black stones form a forest, as if time is folded, telling ancient stories. Looking at stones from the air and mourning the past is also a spectacular sight.
If Shitang Forest is tough, Santanxia is obviously much softer, because the Haraha River flows through it. The best autumn in Santanxia should be in mid-September. The leaves of generate are full of vibrant autumn colors, and yellow, white, red and green are intertwined, which is really pleasing to the eye.
During the eleventh period, most of the leaves have fallen off, leaving only bare branches. The hills are covered with a layer of Bo Xue, which is reflected in the blue sky and white clouds. It's sunny after snow, suitable for relaxation.
From Santanxia to Aershan City, passing by Wusu Langzi Lake, the vision suddenly widened. This is a rare large open water area in Daxinganling forest area. I don't need a ticket. It also fits the name of this place very well. The prodigal son is free and easy to turn around. I checked the origin of Wusu prodigal lake. It is said that there was a drought on the grassland during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty. At that time, a descendant family of Genghis Khan gave birth to a son. Because of their thirst for water, they named their child Wusu (Mongolian: water), hoping that he would bring prosperity to the grassland. Little Wusu always liked to play until he was in his twenties. He refused to eat grass or work.
People call him "Wusu prodigal son" because he didn't do his job well. One year, when there was a drought in the grassland, Wusu went through all kinds of hardships to find water. Herdsmen call the lake formed by water source Wusu Langzi Lake, and the stream through which the lake flows is called Wulan River. Sounds like the story of the prodigal son returning.
Leaving Wusu prodigal lake, Aershan will say goodbye. It is said that I passed the beautiful Aershan Railway Station, with only two rows of seats. Because I can only take a look at it from a distance with the group, I found a picture from the internet for everyone to feel.
From Aershan City to Manzhouli, driving all the way in the afternoon, there are endless open grasslands on both sides. Walking through this place, there is quite a feeling that the road is in sight.
Straw paper on both sides of the road strolls leisurely on the grassland, which can be seen everywhere. The happiest and most regrettable thing about this trip is that I can't sit under these grass rolls and smell the grass.
At sunset, stroll in the new Balhu grassland. Open the car door, outside is the long river and the falling yen.
Because these two days have been walking through the natural environment, after sunset, the grasslands on both sides tend to be dim and the journey becomes boring. Suddenly, violently and defenseless, I was hit by a bright light, just like walking in the desert for a long time and suddenly seeing a mirage. Manzhouli is such a city. There is a local saying, "There is heaven above and Suzhou and Hangzhou below, so the lights in Manzhouli are not as bright." It's as if I crossed a vast forest and endless grassland this time just to see this brightly lit city.
(Manzhouli Landmark-Taowa Square)
As a land port city, Manzhouli's architecture is typical of Russian style, and streets and shops of all sizes are marked in Chinese, Mongolian and Russian. It's interesting to shoot an all-Russian advertisement, but it won't come.
Manchuria is famous for its Russian food and barbecue. Loubry Western Restaurant is the most famous restaurant in Russia, but there were too many people waiting in line that day, so I gave up. I chose a well-known local barbecue shop, Meng Xiangyuan Barbecue Shop (/shop/67070620). Lamb chops are oily, but not greasy at all. I am particularly satisfied with the meat. The barbecue is delicious, so be sure to pay attention to the quantity.
Day 3 Aershan National Forest Park-Xinbaerhu Prairie-Manzhouli
Manzhouli is famous for Guomen Scenic Area and Taowa Square. I'm not interested in Guomen Scenic Spot, which belongs to the scenic spot of pure punching. Boarding the country, overlooking the Russian town of Lake Baikal, and seeing the train rumbling through the country and heading for Siberia, I have more feelings about this small border town.
Standing in the square in front of the country, he saw a lonely little house in the distance. Master Feng took a very clear picture.
There is a Sino-Russian duty-free trade zone in the scenic spot, which is the only international trade zone in China. I want to see the booming trade inside, because I have to apply for a border defense certificate, and the time with the group is really limited, so I only looked at the door. The duty-free trade zone is similar to a supermarket, and the border people buy a lot of food back, which is filled with a shopping atmosphere similar to the Chinese New Year holiday.
Leave Manzhouli and go to Heishantou. We will walk all the way along the border. The Ergon River twists and turns on the grassland, and from time to time, you can see the frontier posts and tents of Mongolian tribes. My horse is a bit naughty. He always likes to surprise his friends and me. Riding on a horse, I strolled to the height of Braque Mountain, overlooking the junction of Genhe Wetland and Ergon River, which was once the fief of Genghis Khan's younger brother Hazare. At the beginning, Mongolia's military pride in the world suddenly came to mind.
Stay in Ergon at night, which is the Mid-Autumn Festival. The moon in the small town is particularly cold and round. I recommend this hotpot restaurant, Baiwei Fresh Copper Hotpot (/shop/75098000). Their awards hung all over the wall. The mutton and beef in the grassland are very tender and delicate, and the entrance has a unique flavor. The amount given by the store is very solid, and a plate of mutton is folded four times. In the end, the average person is less than 50, and the food is absolutely satisfied.
The fourth day Manzhouli-Ergon-Heishantou
I like the Ergon River very much. The river winds, wild flowers cross the grassland and the lake is misty. This is the distant artistic conception of Hulunbeier grassland.
(The official photo of Ergon Hoda S-bend, which is what the inquiry looks like in September)
Ergon wetland is open and full of vitality, which is covered by the richness of late autumn. Because it is half a month late, the color of the tree has begun to fade and gradually turn yellow. At this time, the bare birch is particularly conspicuous, carrying its own dust. Walking through the wooden steps shaded by birch trees, friends in the same trade put Master Park's birch trees on the stereo, which is simply natural. Its meaning is gloomy, and the mountains and rivers are lonely. The moon is in the sky, the Ming River is in the sky, there are four sounds, and the sound is among the trees.
Listen to the birch forest. Can you see where the small speaker is hidden? )
Say goodbye to Ergon in the morning, drive to Wumeng Shiwei, and pass through ethnic villages in Russia and Russia along the way. It's just a meal. The first thing you do when you get off the bus is naturally related to eating. The taste of this kebab is the best I have eaten this year. At a roadside stall in this town. To make delicious mutton skewers, first, mutton should be delicious and meat should be inserted on iron skewers; Second, we should cook properly. Thanks to Uncle Kebab for his keen perception of the interaction between charcoal fire and mutton. Third, it must be properly seasoned, and the mutton is marinated just right in advance. The last handful of cumin gives the mutton string a unique vitality.
Well, the most beautiful ones are all kinds of woodcuts. We took a walk on the road in the midday sun. There are bright little houses everywhere. Occasionally a dog will come out. The past days were slow and the mail was slow. So we walked leisurely and swung, and the days passed quietly. Sometimes I want to be busy, sometimes I want to be quiet, and sometimes I want to be clear about A.
Monushvi is the origin of Mongols. The birch forest in winter is beautiful, and it is strongly recommended to stay here for a long time. The birch forest with its own spirituality makes any photo have a sense of story. This lonely and freehand birch tree, with its head held three feet high, seemed to hear their conversation with the immortal sky.
Walking through this birch forest, I don't know who will have what kind of story with whom.
Tonight's destination is another border town, Shiwei. Shiwei was originally a tribe, a nomadic people with the Khitan, and now it is a border town, which combines the characteristics of its own nation and the characteristics of the Russian border and has its own vigorous literary atmosphere. The Ergon River separates Russia from Russia. There is a bridge connecting Russia in Shiwei Park, which is bounded by the center of the bridge. Half belongs to China and half to Russia. Unfortunately, we went a little late, so we couldn't visit the bridge. Living in the woodcut of local houses at night, the room has a faint smell of wood, which is particularly soothing.
(We live in woodcut cold, and the store name is "Ranger's House")
This Mukereng offers free bicycles to ride through town. There is a hollier bar room in the town (/shop/92558558). The music bar here is fluffy, much like bread, unlike the solid music bar in Harbin. The boss said they were happy to milk themselves and eat fresh food while it was hot. Milk tastes super mellow, crisp outside and tender inside. I am willing to indulge in the mellow flavor of carbohydrates. The biggest regret of this trip is that I didn't eat blueberry ice cream. Daxinganling is the main blueberry producing area in China. Locals like to milk cows to make ice cream, and use natural blueberries in Daxinganling to make jam and pour it on ice cream. If summer comes, you must try it. It is said that it tastes strong, mellow, sweet and long. It is a pity not to taste it.
(Night in Shiwei Town)
Look for a bonfire at the meeting place at night. The moonlight on the grassland is particularly bright. A group of people sang and danced happily around the bonfire. When they are addicted to alcohol, drink a bottle of old Russian Miller wine. There is fire, wine, singing and dancing, which is the company of the world of mortals.
The cold morning in Wei's room is the feeling of winter in my hometown. Struggling to get up, the window is full of wet water vapor, I stood in my yard, breathing the air. In the distance is a cold mountain with a smoke cage. There are layers of gold and white on the mountain. In the mist, there is a familiar intimacy and the beauty of landscape painting.
Because the local roads were narrow and carts couldn't get in, we changed taxis and traveled on the edge of Mordoga forest. Walking through the muddy village road, you will be suddenly enlightened when you come to the border. The Ergun River winds through and climbs the nearest hill. Independent in cold and autumn, the boundary markers are majestic, and the grass rustles opposite, so you can see the endless vastness. When you see the Ergong River in the north, you will think that Mao Zedong is in Orange Island. The coverage rate of Daoga forest is as high as 93.3%, which preserves the last splendid virgin forest landscape of cold temperate coniferous forest in China. The mountains are heavily forested, and the Moldoga forest is a bit wet and muddy, and the thick larch pine needles are covered with a layer. The mountains and rivers are cold and the leaves are warm. A little cloudy, no blue sky and white clouds, only a gloomy beauty. Autumn in the north is vividly displayed here.
At noon in a small town, I saw a pot-stewed dish when I got off the bus (/shop/673 1 1594). I rushed in and asked for a mushroom stew chicken. When the weather is cold, seven or eight people warm themselves around the stove, watching the fragrance in the big iron pot come out bit by bit and pervade the whole person, and the body slowly wakes up in the call of food. I've eaten a lot of instant noodles stewed with chicken and mushrooms, but it's the first time I've eaten such a serious and authentic chicken and mushroom stew (an inexperienced foodie). Put the chicken pieces and cabbage vermicelli together in a large iron pot, pour the soup on it, put it in a cage, steam the flower rolls in the cage, wait for twenty or thirty minutes, and then wait for the hot rice. The locals especially like to eat bean paste buns. There are twenty sticky bean bags in one serving, so I just want to have a taste. The boss steamed me two bean paste buns, which tasted sticky and stained with sugar, like the memory of dipping sugar in steamed bread just now.
After lunch, I went all the way to Genhe. Along the way, the Moldoga forest was covered with snow, white and yellow overlapped each other, and the Huang Man forest was shrouded in mist, which attracted a group of people to exclaim all the way.
It is more appropriate to eat hot pot in snowy days. In the evening, I found an ice-boiled mutton hot pot, which tasted fresh. There is ice on the bottom of the pot, and fresh mutton pieces are piled on the ice. After the hot pot is heated, the ice cubes melt quickly. Perhaps it is because of the principle of expansion with heat and contraction with cold that mutton will become compact when it is very delicious, and then it will expand when it is heated, so this kind of meat tastes very smooth and delicious. Let's eat something fresh.
Day 5 Ergon Wetland-Enhe-Shiwei
In a blink of an eye, the last day arrived. Get up early and leave the hotel for Oluguya. Aoguya is the settlement of Ewenki, a deer tribe. People here migrated from the Lena River basin in Siberia to the Ergon River basin more than 300 years ago and have been living in the cold forest in Daxinganling. They make a living by hunting and raising reindeer. They believe in shamanism and worship tree gods, and live in Zoroach built of birch branches and bark. I recommend reading The Right Bank of Ergon by Chi Zijian.
This is a wonderful place because of the snow. Innocent roe deer are kept in captivity here, and the innocent roe deer have a mysterious and lovely feeling with their ears propped up.
Reindeer are not surrounded, so you can take photos with them, feed them and have fun.
Squirrels like to run around at will. Of course, they are not afraid of people.
Starting from the antique Oulu, the snow gradually faded and the grassland began to become vast. Zhang Han is a relatively mature grassland scenic spot. Here, you can see the Mozigele River, which Lao She called "the first curved water in the world". Standing on a high place, you can see it flowing down the river and returning against the current, often full of twists and turns, ups and downs, and so on.
After Jin Khan came out, he drove to Hailar, and the trip to Hulunbeier ended.
I believe that there will be a grassland in everyone's heart, and it is this grassland that attracts us to visit the bigger and bigger world. "My father once described the fragrance of grassland, which he will never forget at the ends of the earth. My mother always likes to describe the big river that flows in my hometown in the remote Mongolian Plateau. Now I finally see the vast land, standing on the fragrant grassland, my eyes are full of tears, and the river is singing the blessings of my ancestors, blessing the wandering children and finding the way home. " If life goes against the trend, I am also a pedestrian, and I am the world of mortals.
This travel book dragged on for a month and was finally finished. Although I will always grow up slowly, I will write down all the places I have been, the delicious food I have eaten and the people I met because I love to play with waves, and I will live to the end.