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Tianfu flavor Sichuan cuisine Longmen array: magical, delicious and holy matsutake
In the world, the taste of food is the most difficult to ponder and express when it is "fresh" and "fragrant". Like plants, bamboo shoots, dictyophora, Tricholoma matsutake and truffles are all rare and delicious ingredients in food. Its umami flavor and fragrance are not as salty, sweet, spicy and sour as they are invisible and intangible. Only when you chew it carefully and taste it quietly can you feel the inherent mysterious flavor of this food and realize the sacredness of this delicious food. Let's say the rarest Tricholoma matsutake in the western Sichuan Plateau.

In the east of the world, there is such a paradise called "the sun and moon in my heart, the world I yearn for". There are towering snow-capped mountains, deep canyons, crystal snow, colorful grasslands and ancient forests. It seems that the most beautiful and pure beauty between heaven and earth is hidden here, which is the "mysterious and harmonious natural secret" written by British writer Hilton. It is Xiaojin, Litang, Daocheng and Shangri-La in Diqing, Linzhi in Tibet, and the western Sichuan Plateau is rich in Tricholoma matsutake.

Tricholoma matsutake

Tricholoma matsutake first appeared in China about 7000 years ago. Mainly concentrated in the plateau snow area at the junction of Tibet, Yunnan and Sichuan. Tricholoma matsutake was recorded in Song Zhezong Yuan You period (1082~ 1094) in Tang Shenwei's emergency materia medica. Because the parasitic plant fungus grows under the pine forest, the fungus bud looks like velvet antler, so it is named matsutake. In Song Dynasty, Chen called this fungus Xun, and in Ming Dynasty, Li Shizhen listed it under the mushroom strip in Compendium of Materia Medica, also known as Taiwan mushroom and Fu mushroom. After textual research, it is considered that Tricholoma matsutake is Tricholoma matsutake.

Tricholoma matsutake contains three precious active substances, Tricholoma matsutake polysaccharide, Tricholoma matsutake polypeptide and Tricholoma matsutake alcohol, a unique anticancer substance in the world. In this way, Tricholoma matsutake is listed as a rare natural medicinal fungus and edible fungus in the world, and it is a second-class protected wild species in China. Tricholoma matsutake has balanced and sufficient nutrition, and has many functions such as improving immunity, resisting cancer and tumor, treating diabetes and cardiovascular diseases, resisting aging, beauty beauty, invigorating stomach and protecting liver. Tricholoma matsutake enjoys a long-standing reputation in Japan and Europe. It is regarded as a treasure among fungi and has the reputation of "king of mushrooms". The reason why Tricholoma matsutake is so admired is that it has the special effects of anti-cancer and anti-radiation besides its tender meat and rich flavor. It is the only plant that can resist nuclear pollution after the nuclear explosions in Hiroshima and Nagasaki, Japan. Tricholoma matsutake is found in many parts of the world, but China has the largest output and the best quality.

1. Shangri-La Tricholoma matsutake, Yunnan Tricholoma matsutake accounts for 40% of the national Tricholoma matsutake output, while Diqing Shangri-La Tricholoma matsutake accounts for more than 65% of Yunnan's fresh Tricholoma matsutake exports, making it the "hometown of Tricholoma matsutake" in Yunnan. Diqing Prefecture is located in the northwest of Yunnan Province, at the junction of Yunnan, Tibet and Sichuan provinces. It is an industrial and mining enterprise with little damage to the natural environment and serious pollution in the territory, and its original ecology is well preserved. Shangri-La Tricholoma matsutake is famous at home and abroad for its large mushroom body, tender meat, lasting fragrance and good color.

2. Yajiang Tricholoma matsutake is located in the south of Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province, in the middle reaches of Yalong River, and in the middle part of Hengduan Mountains in the southeast of Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. Yajiang county has a unique natural, climatic and geographical environment for the growth of wild edible fungi such as Tricholoma matsutake, with an annual output of more than 6,000 tons of wild mushrooms, including high-quality Tricholoma matsutake 1000 tons. On August 3rd, 20 13, China Edible Fungi Association awarded Yajiang County the title of "Hometown of Tricholoma matsutake in China". Yajiang Tricholoma matsutake is favored at home and abroad because of its high yield, large size, fine meat quality, good color and fragrant taste. Every year, Japanese and Korean businessmen come to Yajiang from Qianshan to compete for matsutake.

3. Danba Tricholoma matsutake, the majestic Stana Snow Mountain is located in Danba County, Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province. Danba is a key primitive forest area in southwest China, with good ecological environment and abundant plant resources, which is a rare treasure house of plant genes. Mount Stana is a mountain where Tibetan heroes send their souls and is one of the birthplaces of Jia Rong culture. Known as "the country of thousands of diaosi" and "Beauty Valley". Tricholoma matsutake in Danba has unique flavor, smooth and elastic taste, endless aftertaste after eating and unique fragrance.

4. Xiaojin Tricholoma matsutake, Xiaojin County is located in the eastern edge of Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, northwest of Sichuan Province and south of Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture. Tricholoma matsutake, bright in color, large in shape, umbrella-shaped, brown in cap, white in handle, with fibrous and fluffy scales. Tricholoma matsutake meat is white, tender and full, with delicate texture, excellent taste, rich aroma and rich nutritional value. Growing in the humus soil of green gang forest in Gaoban Mountain, Xiaojin County, the top grade has not yet opened its umbrella, and it has become a micro-umbrella, with high nutritional and economic value.

A magical hymn to life

Tricholoma matsutake is an aristocrat among wild mushrooms. It is not only elegant in appearance, but also rich in fragrance. In the season when Tricholoma matsutake is unearthed, that is, from July to June and from 65438+ 10 every year, it is deeply hidden in this primitive mountain forest with the most magical scenery and the most holy and noble ecology on earth. Tricholoma matsutake began to break ground. There should be plenty of rain before Tricholoma matsutake is unearthed and plenty of sunshine after birth. The temperature, insect pests and violent collection in its growth environment will cause great damage to Tricholoma matsutake mycelium and directly affect its growth quality. It can be said that every earthly life of matsutake is a miracle of creation. Not only that, although Tricholoma matsutake has been cultivated in the dark for 3-5 years and its tender life quality period is only 7 days, it is undoubtedly sacred and majestic. Although delicate, they try their best to break through the black soil; It is not very big and indomitable; Breathe in the aura of heaven and earth, soak in the brilliance of the sun and the moon, soak in the dew in the snowy area, and then lay your white, fat, crisp and fragrant body naked on the human plate and let it chew.

Matsutake is really sacred. The mysterious area where it grows is all beautiful tourist attractions; The delicacy and beauty of Tricholoma matsutake is sacred in its ecological environment, and it is a sacred place for people to worship from a distance. As if with the help of God, the ecological environment chosen by Tricholoma matsutake is surprisingly meticulous, rigorous and harsh. It only prefers places with an altitude of 3000 to 4000 meters; The growth environment of Tricholoma matsutake must also be pine trees and green trees. An unpolluted virgin forest composed of trees and other broad-leaved trees. Tricholoma matsutake is a mycorrhizal fungus, and its growth is divided into four stages: spores form hyphae, hyphae form mycorrhiza, mycorrhiza breeds fruiting bodies, and fruiting bodies spread spores. When a Tricholoma matsutake grows old, it will spread 40 billion spores. These spores are scattered by the wind, and only those that fall under the pine roots can survive, and sink into the shallow soil with the rain, absorb the nutrients of the pine roots, and slowly grow hyphae. Mycelia will gradually increase and form mycorrhiza. After 5-6 years, a fruiting body will grow on mycorrhiza, which is Tricholoma matsutake. So far, Tricholoma matsutake is only wild and cannot be cultivated. Not only that, it takes nearly two thousand days and nights from fungal spores to young mushrooms, but only two or three days from young mushrooms to open umbrellas and then to young mushrooms, and the best life state is only seven days. The bigger the matsutake, the better the quality. Because how big Tricholoma matsutake can grow at the same time is determined by the nutrient content of the growing soil and the quality of mycelium, the bigger Tricholoma matsutake grows, the higher the nutrient content. Usually 7- 10 cm is the best. Matsutake comes and goes in a hurry. If you miss this rainy season, you will disappear without a trace. In the season when Tricholoma matsutake is unearthed, even three days after the ground is broken, if it is not picked in time, the mushroom cap will burst open and quickly age, becoming an old Tricholoma matsutake, and its nutrients will volatilize with the smell, which is vulnerable to pests and has no edible value.

Tricholoma matsutake is rich in various nutrients, minerals and trace elements needed by human body, and with its unique delicious and mellow taste, it has become an irreplaceable extreme food given by nature to human beings. Whenever Tricholoma matsutake is extremely delicate and short-lived, it is regarded as a miraculous spirit and worshipped. In this season, men and women of Tibetan families in the mountains are busy looking for matsutake in the mountains. Deep in the mountains, deep in the Woods and deep in the scenery, suddenly a pine mushroom quietly emerged from the ground. Especially in the mountainous area along the rugged path, the soil mixed with leaves is the place where Tricholoma matsutake may grow. Just gently remove the soil, insert a wooden stick or bamboo knife into the bottom of Tricholoma matsutake, and pry open the surrounding soil repeatedly to take out a fresh Tricholoma matsutake. Remember not to use iron, it will scare naive Tricholoma matsutake and make the taste worse. Tibetans sometimes bend down to dig pine mushrooms carefully, and sometimes sing melodious folk songs, as if thanking nature for its generous gifts and selfless dedication and comforting pine mushrooms.

God-given vicissitudes of life, pure and delicious.

In this sacred paradise, Tricholoma matsutake is favored by rain, wind, sunshine and forest, delicate and intoxicating. Especially the Tibetan people in the matsutake producing area treat this sacred object as if they cherish their own lives, and eat matsutake in the most primitive, ecological, simple, pure and primitive way to show their reverence and worship for the sacred matsutake. Natural and simple Tricholoma matsutake sashimi, fresh and delicious original roasted Tricholoma matsutake, fried Tricholoma matsutake with butter, simple Tricholoma matsutake hot pot, stewed chicken with Tibetan Tricholoma matsutake, roasted pig with Tibetan Tricholoma matsutake, and Tricholoma matsutake bamboo rice ..... Tricholoma matsutake is plump, delicate, fragrant, smooth and full of Q-bombs. You can eat it raw and take a bite after being washed clean by the snow in the mountain stream. The wonderful smell of bacteria filled the mouth, and the taste buds immediately intoxicated. This is a unique pine mushroom paradise in snowy plateau, ecological forest and primitive Tibetan township.

Especially when chewing with eyes closed, the fragrance of Shan Ye, the smell of forest, the smell of saprophytic soil, mixed with the sadness of vegetation, gave generate a deep rhyme of Tibetan Buddhism. And people's attitudes and eating methods towards Tricholoma matsutake undoubtedly reveal a person's lifestyle and taste. The preciousness of Tricholoma matsutake lies in its freshness, and only fresh Tricholoma matsutake can maintain complete nutrition and delicacy. Exposing fresh Tricholoma matsutake to dried products, or throwing freshly harvested Tricholoma matsutake into the extremely cold cold palace, not only shows human ignorance and ignorance, but also exposes human selfishness and cruelty. It can really be the sorrow of heaven and earth!

Look at those black and red Tibetan men and women with vicissitudes of life and smiling faces. Look for picked Tricholoma matsutake casually, gently hang off the topsoil with a knife, peel off the epidermis, and eat it directly with some salt. When you bite the stem, your lips and teeth can immediately feel the crisp and tough texture. Sweet and delicious Tricholoma matsutake, with the unique fragrance of minerals and trace elements in Tibetan soil, rippled in an instant. If you pay a little attention to it, you will put pieces of Tricholoma matsutake on the burning slate, spread a layer of ghee and fry it, sprinkle some salt on it, and fry it to bake the fresh fragrance of Tricholoma matsutake before eating it comfortably. Or take it home, sprinkle a handful of vegetables in the pot, throw a few pieces of pine mushrooms and stew for ten minutes. This is the only delicious food in the world. Because the matsutake is peaceful and peaceful at this time, you will show a look of death to your confidant, and you will fully feel its sweetness and delicacy when you eat it. Only at this time, the unique fullness, crispness and tenderness of Tricholoma matsutake, as well as its unique umami and aroma, fully bloom, making you dizzy and not knowing whether you are in heaven or on earth. I think in front of this sacred food, some people with ulterior motives may find it difficult to appreciate the pure and delicious beauty of Tricholoma matsutake.

Nature, the most precious ingredient, needs to be cooked in the simplest way; Original ecological ingredients need a simple way to eat. Simple taste, simple taste. Keeping it fresh and appreciating its mellow beauty is the most sincere respect and reverence for this sacred food. However, it is puzzling that among the thousands of dishes in Sichuan cuisine, there are countless delicacies, but Tricholoma matsutake is the only one lacking. Even in the official version of Sichuan cuisine, searching ancient and modern menus only found "abalone with pine mushrooms". Is Tricholoma matsutake rare or expensive, or is it hard to find? The reason is puzzling.

Nowadays, Tricholoma matsutake is still precious, but with the convenience of transportation and logistics, it is not so rare. I think the taste of Tricholoma matsutake is characterized by its fullness, delicacy, tenderness and crispness, so in order to taste the original flavor of Tricholoma matsutake, raw Tricholoma matsutake is dipped in soy sauce; If you feel the game of Tricholoma matsutake, fry Tricholoma matsutake with ghee (butter) and sprinkle with Mao Mao salt; If you are an early adopter, you must stew tibetan chicken with pine mushrooms; Want to taste the fragrant, sour radish old duck soup with pine mushrooms; To taste the beauty of Tricholoma matsutake, Tricholoma matsutake salmon sashimi is a perfect match; If there are many pine mushrooms, it is impossible to burn Tibetan fragrant pigs with pine mushrooms; To taste the crispness of Tricholoma matsutake, soft frying Tricholoma matsutake with whole egg soybean powder is the most suitable; To taste the softness of Tricholoma matsutake, stir-fry Tricholoma matsutake with fresh pepper; If there are many kinds of Tricholoma matsutake, Kung Pao Tricholoma matsutake is delicious in ................................................................................................................................................................. As for why, I don't know the truth. People in Tibetan areas say so.

However, the most luxurious way to eat is to stew pheasant with Tricholoma matsutake, dictyophora, fungus and mineral water. Naturally, in the place of origin of Tricholoma matsutake, the most direct and delicious original ecological eating method is Tricholoma matsutake sashimi, which preserves the unique delicacy and mellow of Tricholoma matsutake as much as possible, and sits in a bar with a very strong Tibetan cultural atmosphere with premium soy sauce and a glass of red grapes or white wine, enjoying the delicious food, full of delicious fragrance, and the rest is the private space you can imagine.

Sichuan province annals? Deputy Editor-in-Chief of the Editorial Committee of Sichuan Annals; Sichuan cultural person; Sichuan writer.