Dongpo pork is the specialty of many Chinese restaurants in Taipei. What is the origin of this dish? What does it have to do with Dongpo? According to the textual research of Mr. Huang Qifang, Liang Zhangju, a Qing Dynasty man, said in "Wandering Tales": "The name of Dongpo meat, today's food means rotten meat. He also quoted Dongpo's poem about eating pork: "Huangzhou good pork, the price is like dirt." The rich refuse to eat, and the poor can't cook. Slow fire, boil less water, and when the fire is strong, he will be beautiful. Get up and play a bowl every day. It's full and I can't worry. People think that the name "Dongpo Meat" comes from this. In addition, Su Hua in the Qing Dynasty also said: "Today, people cut large pieces of fat dolphins and boil them, which is called Dongpo meat." Liang and Zhang were born in Jiaqing and Tongzhi years of Qing Dynasty (1796- 1874). Thus, "Dongpo Meat" was already a familiar dish among the literati at that time.
In fact, Dongpo has become the most loved person for thousands of years. Personally, I have always thought that a person who is completely out of touch with human fireworks is inevitably daunting, abrupt, humble and boring.
Dongpo concentrated a large number of works on eating and drinking, and many people took it as the topic of academic papers. This paper only briefly expounds his works during the relegation period (with one or two works during his service abroad) to share with you.
Let's start with drinking.
The so-called "drinking" of the ancients mostly refers to "drinking". After the Tang Dynasty, they sometimes referred to "drinking tea". I only mean "wine" here
Dongpo can't drink well, but he loves to drink. Drinking theory: "I don't drink much, but I can't live without this gentleman if I want to light a lamp every day." "Inscription after Poetry": "My teenager was drunk when he saw the wine and lamp, and now he can get three pieces of banana leaves." Banana leaves are shallow cups, and three banana leaves are three small cups and three small plates, which is about ten cc. Huang Tingjian even said doubtfully, "Dongpo is drunk in Chinese when he drinks three banana leaves. From this point of view, Dongpo's shallow drinking is recognized by friends. After "Biography of Shu Dong Gao Zi", he said: "There is nothing in the world that can't be drunk, and the next person does nothing. ..... the world is delicious, and no one gives it. Dongpo's inedible and delicious temperament really made us have an unspeakable interest in reading. In "On Drinking", he mentioned that official wine is "evil and expensive" and homemade wine is "hard to swallow", but he couldn't help but sigh: "No one knows what the poor do. After reading this, it is amazing that we don't feel bitter, but feel humorous. Then he said, "Sweet, sour and bitter, all of a sudden." What is there to care about? As long as it makes me feel drunk. It doesn't matter if you think about it this way, the wine brewed by yourself is not good to drink, and the guests are uncomfortable to drink; But if the guests are uncomfortable, what do I have to worry about? Dongpo's cutest humor and wit are revealed in such words.
In addition, "After Zi Ming Composed Poems" has a similar taste: the article first said that my cousin Zi Ming had a good capacity for drinking and was quite chivalrous when he was young. After middle age, he became famous for "doing things in the name of punishment". In other words, his administrative ability and performance were excellent, and he was no longer a young hero in those days, but his alcohol consumption dropped to only three banana leaves. I got drunk without seeing the wine, and now I can drink three banana leaves-I'm neck and neck with Ziming. However, if you look down on yourself, you will lose your knowledge and ambition, and you will become a waste. Only then do you understand that both "drinking capacity" and "learning ability" will gain something from it, that is, you will lose something from each other-a slight sigh is still full of funny feelings.
From the article Drinking, we know that Dongpo often makes his own wine. In fact, Dongpo likes making wine very much. What he got from Yang Shichang, a Taoist priest in Xishu, was that "real pearl" refers to white rice and "jade" refers to white flour, both of which are common raw materials for brewing wine, but honey wine does not need these raw materials, so there is a saying that "bees make rice to raise flowers". One advantage of brewing honey wine is that it does not need to be "filtered". In addition, when he was in Huizhou, he also brewed Gui Xiang wine. Ode to Cinnamon Wine says that this recipe was given by a hermit. "Jade color, fragrant and detached, inhuman." Because cinnamon governs middle temperature, benefits liver and lung qi, can kill three insects, strengthen bones and muscles, and nourish spirit and hair color like a boy. As a good medicine to treat chilling diseases, we reasonably speculate that Dongpo brewed osmanthus wine, although nourishing the heart, is also healthy.
However, Dongpo's favorite is "Yizhen wine", and the "Yizhen wine" he brewed is also very particular and meticulous. "Send to Jian 'an Xu Dezhi's Real Wine Method" said: "Lingnan can't help drinking, it's almost a brewing method, given by God. It only uses three things: white flour, glutinous rice and clear water, which is the real wine. Brewed into emerald color, with natural fragrance, absolutely like the jasper fragrance of Wang Taixu (Dongpo's good friend Wang Shen), absolutely unique! It's amazing! "Visible its severe. The detailed method in this paper is to ferment the above white flour into steamed cakes (koji cakes), and hang them in the wind for two months after steaming. Use five or three buckets of glutinous rice, and three buckets is better. Take a bucket of rice for cooking at a time, wash it with clear water, dry it, mash three or two pieces of white koji powder, mix well, put it in an urn, pat it hard, press out a conical concave well with a wide top and a sharp bottom, then sprinkle a little white koji powder and cover it with a curtain. When the pulp is full, draw the curtain with a knife, then throw three liters of new rice into the well, cover it and pour two bowls of cold boiled water. After fifteen days, you can get six liters of good wine. If the weather is too hot, the song will be halved. Finally, the article said: "The dry mercury method (the Taoist art of refining mercury into silver) might as well be passed on to others, but this method cannot be passed on. "It reflects Dongpo's treasure of the real wine method, even to the point of being stingy with others. However, in that case, why bother to elaborate on its practice? This shows Dongpo's humor and makes people smile.
Regarding the "God-given" wine method, Dongpo wrote "Remember to give true wine method". The plot is bizarre, just like a dream. Try it: "I was in Baihe's new house when Taoist Deng suddenly knocked at the door. It was already three drums, my family was asleep, and the moonlight was like frost." Later, there was a big man (tall man), wearing clothes and leaves, fighting with wine in his hand. He was as rich as a duck and said, "Have you ever tasted real wine?" "Sit down, three people drink a few cups, clap and sing downstairs together. The sea breeze shook the water and the big fish came out. Giving books is the true method, practicing nine things, and finally the cloud "Li Jingshu, the fairy of nine chivalrous men".
According to Taoist terminology, "true self" is pure but not miscellaneous, eternal Taoist ontology, ontology and nature. In this article, Taoist Deng and Li Jing, the fairy of Jiuxia, are all related to Taoism. In addition, the above honey wine was obtained from Yang Shichang, a Taoist priest in Xishu, and the osmanthus wine method was obtained from a hermit. Then Dongpo's wine-making is like an alchemist, almost beneficial to health, and related to Taoist elements in his thought.
Next, let's talk about food.
Dongpo said in the article "Biography of Gao Zi in East Sichuan": "You can't drink in the world, and you can't give it to the lower class", "You can't give it to the upper class if you have good wine in the world". Although Dongpo didn't say anything like "eating", he obviously likes eating. Yuanfeng was in Huzhou in May of the second year. In the same year, his friend Ding gave him a slug (a big crab) and wrote a poem to answer it. Among them, "half a shell contains Huang Yi to order wine, and two pincers of snow advised to add food", which fully revealed his joy-he ordered wine and added food, and he was worthy of this delicious food. The last two sentences, "I can laugh at Xing Wu's gluttony, but one poem is worth two sharp balls", make me laugh at myself.
Dongpo meat mentioned at the beginning of this article can be found in "Pork Fu" when he relegated Huangzhou: "Wash the iron pot, there will be less water and the wood stove will not burn." . Don't rush him when he is ripe, he will be beautiful when the heat is enough. Huangzhou good pork, the price is like dirt. If you refuse to eat, the poor can't cook. Get up in the morning and play two bowls, which are full, so don't worry at all. In a few words, I pointed out the key to cooking, but I have delicious intelligence (the expensive ones don't eat low prices, and the poor ones eat irregularly; The former is stupid, the latter is ignorant), obviously complacent.
Besides cooking pork, Dongpo is also good at cooking fish. The Law on Cooking Fish says, "My son is in Huangzhou, so I can cook fish by myself. The practice is: take fresh crucian carp or carp, wash it, put it in cold water, add salt, and then mix it with Chinese cabbage and onion without stirring; Add a little ginger, radish juice and wine after half-cooked; When cooked, sprinkle some orange peel. Dongpo finally said that the beauty of its taste can only be realized by those who eat it, and it can't be described in words. After reading this, there are probably not many readers who don't want to try cooking.
After leaving Huangzhou, he had books to make fish soup during his tenure in Hangzhou. He mentioned that when he was in Dongpo, Huangzhou, he often cooked fish soup himself to entertain guests, and the guests didn't praise him. At that time, it was thought that it was probably because the poor were easy to satisfy. Now in Hangzhou, there are many delicious foods. Today, I just had dinner with Zhong, Wang, Qin and others. And I'm going to have a party for a while and then try it again. I didn't expect everyone to think that "this soup is above everything else, with a high rhyme and vulgarity, which is beyond the reach of secular people." We believe that what these three people said is by no means flattering. The special writing style of Dongpo in the article should also show his pride in his own craft, right?
Comparing these two essays, The Method of Cooking Fish and The Book of Cooking Fish Soup seem to refer to the same thing, and many people do think so. But there is no need to arrest. Huangzhou is close to the Yangtze River, and there are many aquatic products such as fish, shrimps and crabs, which are hardly one made by Dongpo. The former is "the eater knows his treasure, but he can't tell it all"; The latter is called "transcendental high rhyme, which is beyond the reach of secular people." In a word, it proves that Dongpo is good at "cooking fish"
Besides fish soup, Dongpo also makes shepherd's purse and shrimp soup. In November of 2004, there were "three books by Wang", and the third one specifically wrote that on the 28th of that month, the weather was "rainy and slightly snowy", and he suffered from a cold disease and "sat in danger until night". Drinking a glass of ginger ale with Wang (the younger brother of Dongpo Yuanpei Wang Fu) turned out to be "drunk". And "I personally make a shrimp soup with a gun and dagger. The food is delicious." I specifically told Yuan Zhi (and maybe myself), "Don't forget this smell when I return to my hometown one day." Different from previous works, there is a melancholy meaning between the lines. Homesickness, homesickness, and even the feelings and scenes I cherish at this moment suddenly come to my mind, which makes me feel depressed!
Dongpo's poem Yu Qian and Monk Lu Yunxuan said: "You can eat without meat, but you can't help eating bamboo. No meat makes people thin, no bamboo makes people vulgar. People are thin and fat, but most people are incurable. Others scoff at this, so high that they are stupid. If you still chew this, how can there be Yangzhou cranes in the world? Later generations attached a phrase like "If you want to be thin, you should eat bamboo shoots and stir-fried meat every day", so Dongpo's image of eating meat lingered. In fact, Dongpo has always been very poor and often can only eat vegetables. The reason why you can eat meat, fish and shrimp happily in Huangzhou is because the local products are rich and the prices are as low as earth. As early as I took office in Mizhou (during the reign of Xi Ning), my family was "too tired to eat the kitchen", but "I learned Liu Junting's style in the abandoned nursery of the ancient city and begged for food" (later "Qi Ju Fu"). As mentioned in the article, I once suspected that the weather would follow me (Lu Guimeng, a poet in the late Tang Dynasty), saying that I often ate Qiju because even if I didn't meet a scholar, I could just shrink down and go on a diet, and I was so hungry that I chewed grass and trees that I couldn't help exaggerating. But looking back at my present situation, "I know that the words of heaven will be born with me and are credible." "It's a self-deprecating poem" Qi Ju Fu Hou ". Later, Dongpo ate mostly vegetables and bamboo shoots in Huangzhou, Dingzhou, Huizhou and even Danzhou. During the Huangzhou period, there was an article "Ode to Dongpo Soup", which opened the chapter and said: "Dongpo Soup covers the soup cooked by Dongpo lay people. "Materials are fermented grains (Chinese cabbage), turnips (turnips), turnips (radishes), water chestnuts, etc. Wash them several times to get rid of their bitterness. Then apply a little crude oil to the pot rim and porcelain bowl. Fill the kettle with water and add some raw rice to the soup. When the rice is cooked, the soup will be rotten and ready to eat. If there are no vegetables, you can use melons and eggplant, but don't wash them. Add cooked red beans and japonica rice. The following steps are the same as cooking. Dongpo described this dish as "naturally sweet" and "naive".
"Second Redmi" means that when Dongpo has no japonica rice to eat, he lets his servants brew their own barley and cook day and night. Because of the "tut-tut" sound, children make fun of each other, saying that it is "chewing lice". As for its taste, Dongpo described it as "natural sweet, sour and slippery, with the smell of northwest villages" ... It is obviously a rough and unpalatable meal, and Dongpo wrote it as if it was particularly tasty; The mutual teasing of family members witnessed their carefree situation. ...
At the same time, Dongpo also wrote two articles: Cai and Erhong Fan. The former is about the yearning for the home-grown nest vegetables (wild pea seedlings). The article said: "The beauty of food has a nest in my hometown, so I am addicted to it, and I am also addicted to it. He also said: "I have been to my hometown for more than ten years, and I can't go. He said that when he came from Shu, he saw Huang, wrote a poem, returned his son, and planted it under Dongpo. In the poem, there is a vivid description of Yuan Xiucai. And "chickens and dolphins don't know, I'm afraid they will be empty", which shows that Dongpo loves this dish more than chicken and pork; He added, "I always forget my home, and Chu Yin has become a child. This thing is unique and charming, and it wears breasts all year round. I like this dish so much that I can't forget it. Therefore, I specially asked Yuan Chao to send me vegetables when he returned to Meishan, and I told him "Don't seal the bag". I am eager to express my feelings. As for the "Second Redmi", when Dongpo had no japonica rice to eat, he told his servants to cook barley day and night. Because of the "tut-tut" sound, the children teased each other and said it was "chewing lice". As for its taste, Dongpo described it as "natural sweet and sour, with the smell of northwest villages", and it was especially delicious when cooked with red beans. The old lady smiled and said, "This new rice is red, too." . "It is obviously a rough and unpalatable meal, written by Dongpo, which seems to have a special taste; The mutual ridicule of family members witnessed their carefree and carefree life. This kind of cultivation and feelings really make people yearn for it.
Yuan You six years, Dongpo in Dingzhou, there is an article "Bamboo Shoots Parallel Sequence", saying that bamboo shoots taste like bitter bamboo shoots and add sweetness. "It is very expensive for Shu people to worship Buddha, but the south doesn't know." He also said that "you can peel it in February, and then it will be bitter and you can't eat it." As for the cooking method, "steaming is the same as bamboo shoots." If "honey is boiled", over time, "a thousand miles is feasible". Dongpo specially gave this product to his friend Elder Zhong Shu.
Because bamboo shoots look like fish, most people in Shu worship Buddha with bamboo shoots, and Dongpo calls bamboo shoots "wooden fish". The last two sentences of the poem are very interesting: "What does wooden fish eat? Cooking can't sound solid. " Cooking can't sound "use" ("wooden fish" is like a fish instead of a fish; Trees die without material, geese die without material; Paradoxically, without matter, the world is inevitably tired. )
Shao Shengyuan, a philosopher, was relegated to Huizhou in June, and Dongpo arrived in Huizhou on October 2nd. On April 11th of the following year, there was a poem "Eating Litchi for the first time", in which the beautiful litchi was called "stunner", and Yang Guifei's Classic of Eating Litchi said: "You don't have to wait for the princess to laugh, your personality is naturally beautiful. In the last four sentences of the poem, the beauty of litchi is even better than that of shepherd's purse perch (China shepherd's purse perch): "I was born in wet times, and I didn't know about perch for a long time. What is not a dream? It's good to come to Wan Li from the south. There seems to be a gift of "Why are you happy to eat litchi?". In April of the third year of Shao Sheng's reign, he reiterated this idea, which is the well-known poem: "It is four o'clock in spring in Luofu Mountain, and oranges and bayberries are the latest. 300 lychees a day, it is better to grow into Lingnan people. In fact, Dongpo arrived in Lingnan, where he was embarrassed and humble. His poems about eating litchi fully reflect his open-mindedness and optimism. In other words, Dongpo is good at "turning around" to let himself feel relieved in the face of all setbacks and sufferings. For example, in July of three years, Shao Sheng wrote that he borrowed someone else's land to grow vegetables and spent the whole year with his son Sue. Even if you get drunk in the middle of the night, you can only pick vegetables and cook for hangover. If it is an ordinary person, it will be miserable, but Dongpo said: "The smell is thick and muddy, and the gas is full of dew, although the meat is out of reach. A poem says, "Qiu Lai East Garden is full of frost and dew, and the reeds have children and grandchildren. I'm still full as usual, and I don't know why I want to eat chicken and dolphins! Later, he was demoted to Danzhou, and he still often ate vegetable soup. He said: "the taste of vegetable soup is land and water, and poverty cannot cause it." Boil turnips, reeds and bitter herbs. Its practice does not use acyl sauce, which is natural in taste, easy to cover and often eaten. In the fu, it is specially described: "Take a quiet spring to exercise, and expose the leaves and roots. You can melt the liquid with ointment and flow it into body fluids. Appropriate soup is like a breeze, and throwing beans is harmonious. Cover the dome of Taoou and stop stirring and touching. The rich flavor of acyl sauce is fragrant and spicy. The water consumption is beginning to heal, and the fire is getting worse. Noisy and clean, honest and beautiful. No matter the materials and methods, they are the same as Dongpo soup in Huangzhou period mentioned above. From Huangzhou to Danzhou, Dongpo has eaten this dish soup for more than ten years. I'm afraid we can't help but have mixed feelings when we imagine its situation.
Although vegetable soup is delicious and Dongpo is calm, if you don't consider eating meat at all, it's not Dongpo. In the second year of Shao Sheng's life, he mentioned how to eat sheep's spine in Huizhou in his letter to Ziyou, which was very interesting. The article is as follows:
Huizhou city is vast and sparsely populated, but it still kills a sheep every day, and dare not compete with the government to buy it. At that time, it told the butcher to buy its spine ears. There is still a little meat between the bones, which is cooked (note: don't cook it until it is hot. ) in dipped wine, cook with dilute salt and eat slightly. Picking all day, I got two baht between Ken and Mao. I was very happy. Like eating crab claws, I felt very replenished after eating for a few days. I have been in the canteen for three years, and all I eat is meager food. I have no teeth or bones. How do I know the smell? The script stays on this piece of paper. Although it is a play, it can be used. However, if you say this, the dogs will be unhappy!
Dongpo cooked the sheep spine, soaked it in hot water, roasted it with fine salt and charcoal, and ate it all day for several days. The image that nourishes it is as vivid and lovely as it is now. He still eats big fish and meat all day to tease the children, and his mouth is full of sweetness. How do you know the beauty of this taste! The ending is particularly hilarious-if everyone imitates, the dogs will be unhappy. No matter how it ends.
In addition, in the winter of Fu Yuanyuan, he wrote a special article "Eating Oysters", which recorded that Bo 'er people gave him oysters to eat. Dongpo said, "If you cut it, you will get several liters. Meat and pulp will be boiled in water with wine. The food is very beautiful. Take the biggest one, cook it well and chew it properly, which is good for cooking. There is a word missing from the last sentence. It seems that the little guys added wine and water to boil; The big ones are roasted and eaten, as if they were cooked left and right, and they ate a lot. Dongpo is a little at a loss. It's amazing. He also mentioned that "Haiguo eats crabs, snails and octopus. Is there an offer? "(the original text is missing), and it seems that he wants someone to send more seafood. Finally, he especially warned his son Su Guo not to be kind to outsiders, or the gentleman in the north would "beg for all rivers and rivers, and share my beauty", just as humorous as showing the sheep's spine before.
In addition to eating oysters, Dongpo also likes to eat sweet potato soup. A poem says, "It smells like dragon saliva but it is still white, and it tastes more clear like milk. Don't spoil the South China Sea with gold, it is lighter than Dongpo jade. The preface before the poem (or the title of the poem) said, "When I passed the child, I suddenly had a new idea. I take sweet potato as a jade plate, which is delicious in color, smell and taste, but the cake in the sky is unknown and there is no such taste in the world. "'Dragon Spit' is a precious spice, which is made from the stomach secretions of sperm whales." Sudo ",an ancient Indian cheese food, is found in Buddhist books. Gold and jade, that is, gold and jade, northern Wei, Qi Shu? In the section of Bahemu, garlic, ginger, orange peel, Bai Mei, cooked chestnut, japonica rice, salt and sauce are horseshoes, which are golden in color, so they are called golden horseshoes; Jade refers to fish, which is white, so it is called it. "Taiping Guang Ji" Volume 234 cited the old topic Yan Shigu's Notes on Great Cause? "Wu Zhuan" (scholars believe that it was written by Song people): "Take the bass less than three feet as dried silver carp, soak it, wrap it in cloth and drain it, and put it on a plate. "Take the fragrant soft flowers and leaves, chop them alternately, stir fry with silver carp and mix well. After frost, the perch is as white as snow and not fishy. The so-called golden silver carp is also delicious in the southeast. " In the late Tang Dynasty, Pi Rixiu wrote three poems "The New Autumn is Things": "There is nothing to congratulate, happy ever after." It can be seen that from the Northern Wei Dynasty to the Tang Dynasty, and even the Song Dynasty, gold and jade are all highly regarded delicacies. Su Guo's wisdom changed. He came up with a new idea. He turned the sweet potato into a jade plate with good color, fragrance and taste, which made Dongpo full of praise. When we look at these works, the image of father and son cooking food with local materials every day is now presented. Su Zhe's "Epitaph of My Elder Brother and Son Looking at the Ming Dynasty" said: "People can't bear to worry, but they enjoy eating taro and drinking water and writing books. The days are obviously bitter, but the world written by Dongpo is so beautiful. Dongpo's inner broadness and elegance are amazing.
Dongpo's humor, openness and cheerfulness are well known. In the case of continuous relocation, he has not lost this trait at all, and has been living a miserable life with a relaxed heart and smiling eyes. This paper makes a brief survey of his works on drinking and eating in previous relegations, because such "life-oriented" writing can make us feel Dongpo's special temperament and self-restraint more easily and cordially; Dongpo, which is more lively and real. Through these descriptions and records, Dongpo cured himself and his readers for thousands of years-no matter how unhappy the years are, we can immerse ourselves in Dongpo's food world and find a place to live.