It was near 1 1: 00 when I left the ancient city of Dali. We plan to visit Shaxi ancient town in the afternoon and arrive in Lijiang in the evening.
From Dali Ancient City to Dengchuan Town, we didn't take the expressway, but walked along the country road on the west side of Erhai Lake, passing through Xizhou and butterfly spring. The purpose of this walk is to browse the scenery on the west bank of Erhai Lake, just to complete the plan of surrounding the sea. After Dengchuan Town, turn to Dali Expressway.
1, Xizhou and butterfly spring
The famous Xizhou Baba, just out of the pot, is crisp and soft. When passing through Xizhou, I saw many farmers hawking along the road and buying and tasting with a feeling of admiration. It is sweet and salty. The sweet one is filled with bean paste, and the salty one is filled with ham and chopped green onion. It is said that the production process is complicated and elegant. Put it into a hanging furnace and bake it with two layers of charcoal fire, with strong fire on the top and slow fire on the bottom. During this period, you need to brush the oil several times until it is crispy. Baba is a famous local flavor snack, which is deeply loved by people.
Xizhou is the hometown of the movie "Five Golden Flowers" and another Bai people's settlement near Erhai Lake. It has a long history and was called "Dali City" in Sui and Tang Dynasties. In the town, represented by Yan, Dong and Yang's three courtyards, there are many key Bai residential buildings under protection. Yan Jia Courtyard, the residence of Yan Zizhen, the founder of "Yongchangxiang" in Xizhou in the Republic of China, was built in 1907, and the main body took 12 years to complete.
The northern end of Xizhou Town is the ancient village of Zhoucheng, and it is also a living specimen to study the architectural history of Bai folk houses. It is the largest Bai village in Yunnan and is known as the "hometown of tie-dyeing". Walking into the museum, you can learn about the history and culture of Bai tie-dyeing, and you can also learn how to tie-dye a fabric as a souvenir.
Butterfly spring is farther north from Zhoucheng Ancient Village 1km. Xu Xiake described it in his travel notes: "There are big trees in spring. In early April, they will bloom like butterflies, and their wings must be obvious, just like giving birth to butterflies. There are thousands of real butterflies hanging on the top of the tree and on the surface of the spring. They are colorful and colorful. Tourists have been coming in droves since this month, and now it is May. " Xu Xiake said that this article about the grand occasion of the Butterfly Club was written according to other people's narratives. When he went a month early, the butterfly tree had not yet blossomed, so he had to break off a branch and leave disappointed.
I remember that I learned the Butterfly Society on the Lancang River in my primary school textbook. This article describes the wonders of Xishuangbanna Butterfly Club. They are also overlapping, hanging their feet, head and tail connected, hanging from acacia trees into the water, and the scene is very spectacular. Unfortunately, the butterfly club in Dali has been rare for more than ten years. Sometimes, although butterflies gather, they are few in number. I can only see that the spring water is crystal clear and slowly emerges from the sand, and the accumulated water becomes a beach, and pieces of water splash. The situation of butterfly club is much worse than the legend.
Why there are the wonders of the butterfly club is still a mystery. However, there is such a touching story: butterfly spring is also called bottomless pool. According to legend, in Yangjiao Village under Yunnong Peak, there lived a clever girl, Wen Gu. There is a handsome young Bai hunter named Xia Lang on the peak. He is not only good at martial arts, but also kind-hearted. One year, they met at the Chaoshan meeting on March 3, fell in love at first sight and made a lifelong commitment. Yu Wang of Cangshan is fierce and cruel. I heard that the beautiful Wen Gu wanted her to be the eighth concubine. So, I sent someone to rob Wen Gu into the palace. When Xia Lang heard about it, she was in a hurry and ventured into the palace to save her sweetheart. Yu Wang led the troops in hot pursuit. They were exhausted when they ran to the bottomless pool. What should I do if there is an abyss in front and pursuers behind? During the crisis, both of them jumped into the pool.
? The next day, the villagers salvaged the couple, but they didn't see the bodies. They saw a big bubble coming out of the water and a pair of beautiful butterflies flying out of the bubble. They are inseparable, hovering around the pool, attracting many butterflies to gather and become a butterfly festival. This day is April 15. Since then, every year on this day, butterflies have flown in all directions, and the scene is very spectacular. Therefore, people changed the name of the bottomless pool to butterfly spring to commemorate the tragic love story of Wen Gu and Xia Lang. This is the origin of butterfly spring.
We are very sorry that we didn't visit these places because we were in a hurry. We can only imagine according to the above situation. If you come next time, you must stay in Shuanglang, and then visit Xizhou Ancient Town, Zhoucheng Ancient Village and butterfly spring, which are close to Shuanglang.
? 2. Lunch in southern Yunnan
After crossing Beitang, getting off the expressway and arriving at Shaxi ancient town, it is completely a rural mountain road with "heavy mountains and heavy waters and no road to doubt", which is extremely steep and tortuous. There is no convex mirror at the corner, so you can only whistle slowly and turn around carefully. Fortunately, there are few cars. The trees are lazy in the midday sun, and one side of the road is a bottomless abyss surrounded by mountains. This section of the road is desolate and empty. The sun is shining and I feel a little scared. So, I kept drumming in my heart, wondering if I was in the wrong place. Why hasn't it arrived yet?
13: 10 When I came to an open valley and a small village appeared, I felt kind and relaxed. There are several small restaurants along the road, so we decided to rest and eat here. What's the name of this village? I didn't see the sign. It should generally belong to the junction of Diannan Town and Lanping Town.
The shop is located on the side of the road, and there is a big open yard in front of it. There are rows of bacon hanging in the room, which should belong to the most authentic rural bacon. Because the shopkeeper (a middle-aged couple) proudly said that many city people came to his house to buy bacon. Hearing that we were going to Shaxi Ancient Town, the waiter smiled. "We lived here all the year round and didn't feel anything special. You along the way ... "
Their truthfulness and mellow are really touching. So, we ordered a bacon to taste, and it tasted really good. There is no menu in the shop, so do whatever is in the kitchen.
Fried melon tips are actually fried sweet potato stems and leaves. Maybe they are hungry, maybe the local dishes in the countryside are as simple and amiable as their owners, and they realize that there is the most delicious food in the world.
Another kind of wild vegetable produced in the mountains, the name of which I forgot, is also mellow and delicious, and it has an indescribable smoothness when bitten. Three dishes with random rice, 68 yuan.
Jianchuan area is rich in black pottery, and there are many pottery shops opposite the hotel. Pedestrians are rushing to attend temple fairs and other activities in the village, and many people are rushing to a small slope in the south of the village. I saw a small temple in the far corner of the slope, surrounded by fireworks and crowds.
The tea in the shop is soaked in a casserole and poured with drinks. The taste is very special, belonging to a taste that is not delicate or rough. You will know this is new tea when you taste it. Seeing that we like this kind of tea very much, the shopkeeper was very proud and offered us a big bag. Then, she dragged us into the yard to see the dried tea in her house, and introduced that there was another kind of dried flower in it, which made it taste like this.
An unknown plant, shoulder-high, with claw-like green flowers on its branches, exudes a faint fragrance. It is their "secret recipe" to mix it with tea after drying. The folk customs in Jianchuan area are very simple, which makes people feel very warm and cordial. I think we should give her a nice name for her tea. What's it called? After thinking about it, perhaps it is more appropriate to call it "South Yunnan pure tea or Lanping tea shreds".
Half of the land behind the hotel is green and the other half is newly cultivated, which shows that many crops are planted here every year. Vegetable fields and new soil alternate with each other, and small villages with blue tiles and white walls set off the blue sky and green fields. What a peaceful and harmonious countryside. If I stay here, I will weed the vegetable fields in the morning and plant seeds in the newly turned soil; Walking around the village in the afternoon, climbing a small earth slope at night to see the clouds, taking a deep breath and smelling the fragrance of the long-lost earth and the smell of the evening breeze will definitely make us feel back to childhood!
Next to the hotel, besides the black pottery shop, there are several wood carving shops. Jianchuan county is known as "the hometown of carpenters". Jianchuan woodcarving has a long-standing reputation, with a history of 1000 years.
According to legend, during the prosperous period of Nanzhao and Dali, many Han craftsmen were arrested from Guizhou and Sichuan to build palaces and towers. Therefore, these Han people also introduced woodworking and carving techniques to Yunnan. Later, it merged the local culture of Bai nationality, and gradually formed Jianchuan's unique and exquisite woodcarving skills. There is a saying in western Yunnan, "Xizhou Baba River sake, Jianchuan carpenters everywhere", which shows the status and influence of Jianchuan woodcarving.
Woodcarving is exquisite, mostly in relief, and has now developed into a skill with high artistic value. If you like wood carving, you must go to Jianchuan County. It is said that there are many wood carving shops and wooden buildings, and Jiannan Ancient City and Jianhu Fish are also famous.
? 3. Shaxi Ancient Town
At three o'clock in the afternoon, I finally came to Shaxi Ancient Town. It's only 1 10 km from here to Lijiang, so you can visit the ancient town.
Shaxi is a thousand-year-old town, which can be traced back to the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period more than 2,400 years ago and reached its peak in the Tang and Song Dynasties. The town is small, but its status is extremely high. It is known as "the only surviving ancient market on the ancient tea-horse road". In 20 10, the Century Memorial Building Foundation announced in new york, USA that Shaxi (Sideng) was listed in "10/World List of Endangered Buildings". There are no fewer foreign tourists here than people in China. It is said that several foreign experts often live here to help protect the ancient town.
Walking along the street, there are towering old trees on both sides, shops gathering, surrounded by Huaxi and flowing water. The goods were placed by the stream in front of the store, and everything seemed so primitive, casual and quiet for a long time.
Sideng Sifang Street is the core area of the ancient town. Temple refers to Xingjiao Temple; Deng is a white language, which means "place". "Located next to Xingjiao Temple, it is a land of one side", which is the origin of the name of Sideng Sifang Street. In ancient times, caravans often stopped here when transporting tea from Pu 'er to Shaxibazi. In addition, the banks of Heihuijiang River are famous "land of plenty", and gradually formed an important land terminal on the ancient tea-horse road. After the Tang Dynasty, four salt wells appeared around (Misha Salt Well, Qiaohou Salt Well, Yunlong Nuodeng Salt Well and Lanzhou Raj Salt Well). Shaxi, as the nearest market to Sijing, has become the salt capital of Tibet and northwest Yunnan after the tea-horse exchange, and its status is getting higher and higher.
The Kuixing Building in Sifang Street is very creative, showing the bureau of the front desk and the back cabinet. The top floor is Kuixing Pavilion, the middle is a stage, the bottom floor is a shop, and the opposite is Xingjiao Temple.
Standing on Sifang street, I seem to see the bustling scene of tea, horse and salt markets in those days. It is said that there was a market every three days in ancient times, and merchants gathered. For the caravan away from home, Ouyang Courtyard should be the most advanced inn. There is a small stage in their home. Rich caravan merchants sat in their rooms, drinking tea and opening the window to watch the play. Their horses are tied up in the yard behind the house. The small compartment under the ass can be used as a pillow at night and can store gold and silver. Where the caravan needs it, the owner will consider everything. Therefore, this functional architectural design of the front shop and backyard was formed by Shaxi people in order to meet and adapt to the needs of the caravan. Tickets for Ouyang Courtyard 10 yuan are the only paid scenic spots in the ancient town.
? The ancient city, the ancient street, the ancient stage, the ancient temple and the ancient village gate are fully functional and well preserved, which are the core elements of Shaxi ancient town and can be called "the only surviving ancient market on the ancient tea-horse road".
Today, the inn in Shaxi's "front shop and backyard" is still unique. These houses are either two-story wooden buildings or sandy yellow civil structures, which are simple, atmospheric and emotional.
The street is quiet, without the noise and prosperity of the city. The clouds are gentle, the wind is gentle, the flowers are quietly opening, the green branches are sticking out of the window, and the green ones are particularly fresh and shiny. Lazy sunshine, lazy dog and lazy time. In fact, in Shaxi, everything is lazy and soft.
Tourists enjoy this rare laziness in twos and threes, or stroll to enjoy the scenery, or share friendship. If you don't know what "lazy" means, maybe you will understand the full meaning of this word when you come to Shaxi.
Sitting on the steps, looking at the cornices reflected in the sky; Stop, have a cup of tea, chat with the old white people, and listen to the past legends and elegance of the ancient tea-horse road; Or like this woman with a baby in her arms, strolling leisurely in the alleys paved with red sandstone slabs, isn't that what travel can't have?
? "Bowl-throwing wine" originated from Miao nationality, and it was a kind of heroic wine before the ancient Tujia children went out to war. After drinking the bowl, it will be broken, and there is the spirit of "the wind is rustling and the water is cool, and the strong man is gone forever."
Tuocha, an ancient pressed Pu 'er tea. In order to facilitate transportation and retail, it has a long history and is quite distinctive. As early as the Ming Dynasty, in the book "A Brief Introduction to Yunnan", it was said that "the philosophers used tea and steamed it." When we were in Dali, we mentioned the legend of "Xiaguan Wind". In fact, Shimonoseki is the creative place of Tuocha. It, Yunnan Baiyao and Yunyan are known as the "three treasures in central Yunnan", so it is a good choice to bring some tea home.
The woodcarving shop along the street is crowded with small objects. The most interesting thing is the self-service shop next to it. You don't need your master's care. Before you take what you want, you can leave and pay according to the marked price. Because Shaxi people are simple, they don't ask for money casually. They believe that every guest is honest and will never leave without paying.
Each sculpture has a small description of its name, material, characteristics, efficacy and meaning, and is clearly marked. There is a lot of meaning here: "I sell goods, don't worry."
? Jianchuan woodcarving products not only maintain the true color of wood, but also have colorful products with extremely gorgeous colors. From a distance, this pair of "big pipa" is exquisite and elegant. Do they have the elegance of imperial concubine? They are very expensive, and they are very different collections.
A nearly 30-year-old woman painted on a street view, and the painted Buddha statue was placed in a wooden box at her feet to cool. Exquisite and gorgeous, it seems to have the style of Dunhuang murals. I guess I'm here to collect the wind, and my skin is tanned. Her painting "re" is simple and attractive.
Colorful small commodities are hung in front of all kinds of inns. I believe you won't feel impetuous if you live in this "One Cloud Inn". Shaxi, as its name suggests, is a wooden house with yellow mud walls, with rich ancient charm, green willows and streams. Stay here for a few days, even people who are grumpy and impatient will slow down and get the washing and purification of their hearts.
There is no shortage of modern petty bourgeoisie cafes and quiet western restaurants. Take a cup of coffee, order a dessert, sit outside the door, bask in the sun and supplement calcium; See how the sunshine casts mottled flower shadows on the ancient stone road; Or watch the occasional traveler slowly appreciate the beautiful scenery of Shaxi, and inadvertently forget that time is passing.
Many students gathered in front of Yang's yard, and they all sketched on the spot. I guess the buildings in this area must be very distinctive, so I look back at the ancient street and find it really beautiful and full of vitality.
Look at how these young people in their early twenties draw the most beautiful pictures in their hearts with immature brushstrokes, as if they were much younger. If I could go back to my youth, I would also paint, sitting under the blue sky in Shaxi and in the Gu Xiang like them.
Why will Shaxi attract so many young painters in the future? Perhaps the unique style of the ancient town is the source of their inspiration; Perhaps, the culture of the ancient tea-horse road is inspiration; Perhaps, the blue sky and white clouds, the breeze and the stream are the indispensable elements of inspiration. In fact, everything in Shaxi is the biggest reason why they can't help sitting down and picking up the brush. In addition, if there are many endless legends in Shaxi, then the paintings of these young people are the most wonderful legends.
? 4. Yujin Bridge
Out of Dongzhaimen, I came to the Black Ash River. Nowadays, although there is no tinkling bell and the noise of merchants from all over the world, the words "the only surviving ancient market on the ancient tea-horse road" on the boulder bear witness to the ancient and long history of Shaxi.
Heihui River is the mother river of Shaxi people and the most primitive and beautiful place in the ancient town. Flowers and leaves float on the river. They pollute the river. In fact, they make the Heihui River as clear as a mirror, which makes it more blue and amiable. There is no car horn, and there is no crowded noise of people coming and going. Only: the people in Lu 'an Mountain Village, the fat ducks flowing under the bridge, and the people I know say Sang Ma.
There are ripples on the water, and the blue sky and white clouds are intoxicated in the ripples. Together with the swaying shadows, they tell the most beautiful fairy tales in the world.
Visitors seem to be in a painting, gathering or dispersing, walking or sitting, but they all whisper, for fear of ruining the beauty and tranquility in fairy tales. Imagine that in the early morning mist, in the sunset glow, or in the misty rain, there should be a layer of gauze, hazy, ethereal and milky white. "The water is bright and sunny, and the mountains are empty and rainy." Perhaps Su Dongpo's poems describing the West Lake are not as beautiful as the clarity and purity of Heihuijiang River.
Shaxi ancient town is located in a dam surrounded by mountains. Heihui River winds through Shaxi Dam, passes Yangbi, leaves Weishan, and finally flows into Lancang River. For thousands of years, it has not only given beautiful scenery to the two sides of the strait, but more importantly, it has given this land richness and richness and nurtured people who have lived and multiplied here from generation to generation.
The arch of the bridge and its reflection form a round and beautiful world. Does the sun set in the river or does the moon float on the water? Why can't it be a round and vague dream? The mountains are quiet, the river is clear, the vegetation is growing quietly, the birds are whispering, and the river stones can't be washed away ... You are watching the scenery on the bridge, and the people watching the scenery are watching you from a distance. Don't ask who decorated whose dreams. It's beautiful that we stand without talking.
Yujinqiao is the only way for Bai people to go to the fields, work and do business for generations. In the early days, it was a cable bridge. During the reign of Emperor Kangxi in the Qing Dynasty, it took 14 years to raise money and build a stone arch bridge. There is a stone carving glans at the top of the bridge, looking at Heihuijiang River. It seems that the Bai people believe in animism and there is a complex of nature worship hidden in their hearts.
A young couple in their twenties in Cambodia are selling Cambodian jade pendants under a tree, surrounded by tourists. Guests choose natural gemstone pendants, inlaid with silver ornaments on site, and the price ranges from several hundred yuan.
? The young couple are cheerful, easy-going and knowledgeable. When traveling, they earn some money by selling jade pendants. The goal is to visit all the great rivers and mountains in China. You are in the right place, just stay for a while; I think it's almost enough, so I'll change places. They said that they had stopped for several years and didn't want to work. They tried to go to Harbin in the northeast. Speaking of the central street and the ice lantern snow sculpture in Harbin, they are in perfect order, as if they were old local residents. Hearing this, people are envious. If you want to ask, what is the most romantic trip in the world? They are.
Round old trees hang by the river, and the Heihuijiang River comes and goes leisurely in the reflection of blue sky and stratus clouds. White geese pecked at the grass on the shore. Ducks croak from time to time, suddenly jump over the water, run ashore, shake their chubby bodies, and rush forward to grab food, which makes the white geese scream. The picture in front of me can't help but remind people of the Taoyuan world written by Tao Yuanming: "Take a few steps, and you will be suddenly enlightened. The land is flat and spacious, so is the house. There are fertile fields, beautiful ponds, mulberry trees and bamboo. There is a lot of traffic in the building, and chickens and dogs hear each other. Among them, communication is a kind of ... yellow hair hangs down, I am happy. "
Returning to the ancient street again, I suddenly feel that the beauty of Shaxi lies in the mountains and water, but also in its purity and simplicity, which gives people infinite warmth, and the taste of simplicity is not enough.
The streets are still so leisurely and quiet, and now "little painters" have finished their works. He shook his head when asked if any students wanted to sell paintings. "This is our homework, sold and returned!"
? There are so many kinds of mushrooms in Yunnan that you don't know any old men, yellow mushrooms and red ears without their names. The flowers and bark of trees are also divided into many categories, which can be eaten and used as medicine.
Dendrobium benefits the stomach, nourishing yin and clearing heat. When you make tea with Ophiopogon japonicus and Chrysanthemum, the effect of clearing throat and moistening throat will be greatly increased. Some announcers and singers, such as the famous Peking Opera masters Mei Lanfang and Ma, and the Henan Opera master Chang Xiangyu, used to drink Dendrobium tea to protect their voices.
Deep-fried flower-heart potatoes, the skin of potatoes is red, a bit like sweet potatoes, but the color is rounder than sweet potatoes. Red and white after cutting, like fresh pork belly, makes people have an appetite. However, I need to remind you that if you eat a playboy potato, don't become a playboy!
How time flies! It's past four o'clock in the afternoon. To tell you the truth, I really want to stay here for one night, see how the sunset glow dyed the dam by the Heihuijiang River, and appreciate how Shaxi bloomed another kind of beauty in the morning light the next day.
If you stay, you want to stay in such a small inn. There is a pub playing live broadcast on the first floor, and there is a wooden house on the second floor, with four windows open and a cool breeze and bright moon.
? Tell shopkeepers to borrow their bicycles to walk around, facing the evening breeze and crossing Huaxi aimlessly. When the full moon is hanging in the treetops, taking a guitar, sitting by the water, playing and singing, the memory of "ridging up" brings us back to childhood. I walked on the dragon, and the ridge was dark ... There were three moons near Yujin Bridge, one in the sky, one in the water, and the third moon was half in the water and half in the water. At that time, I believed that the night party in Shaxi was particularly charming.
? Because there is no chance to photograph the moon by the Heihuijiang River, the above picture can only be used instead to illustrate what kind of artistic conception it would be to have three moons by the Yujin Bridge.
The sun has obviously set in the west, and some tourists are still riding at high speed. The bell rang gently, and they set out to find the wind of the ancient tea-horse road. They must be prepared to stay here, which is really enviable.