In fact, the reputation of "eating in Guangzhou" has long been widely known, and Guangzhou's food civilization is also imperceptibly affecting the whole country, promoting the change of people's lifestyle and even affecting the way of thinking and thinking.
"Sighing morning tea" is no longer the patent of Laoguang. In many cities in the north, more and more people fall in love with the leisure of "one cup and two pieces"; The "rules" on the dining table such as AA system and packing are also "consciously observed" by more and more people; After nightfall, the midnight snack culture has also moved from Guangzhou to the whole country, and "eating midnight snack" is vividly reflected in the circle of friends. .....
The civilization contained in Guangzhou cuisine is becoming a new fashion.
Cantonese-style "sigh morning tea" is popular all over the country.
In the morning, the teahouse hotel is crowded with people. Accompanied by the strong fragrance of "one cup and two tablets", Laoguang people began their day's life.
The dietary custom of drinking morning tea in Guangzhou has a long history. In the Qing dynasty, the custom of drinking tea centered on morning tea was formed. Erli Pavilion, teahouse and teahouse have been formed one after another, and the combination of refreshments and tastes that appeal to both refined and popular tastes has become an important feature of tea drinking culture in Guangzhou. Today, "Have you had tea?" Have you ever had morning tea? ) is still the most commonly used greeting of Lao Guang people.
Drinking morning tea, in the consciousness of Guangzhou people, is not only tea tasting, but also contains rich social life content. It is related to diet, but also to the etiquette and habits of interpersonal communication.
In the teahouse, we can often see a family sitting around a table, adults chatting and children playing. In the steaming fragrance of shrimp dumplings, boat porridge and steamed chicken feet with sauce, the whole family is happy and the feelings between relatives can be maintained and sublimated.
As the capital of the Millennium, Guangzhou is extremely developed in commerce and trade. Since the reform and opening up, with the rapid economic and social development in Guangzhou, the culture of drinking morning tea has not disappeared, but has increasingly become an important part of Guangzhou people's lives. Teahouses have become places where many businessmen exchange information and discuss cooperation. "Busy in the name, busy for profit, busy for leisure, have a cup of tea", which is the subtlety behind Guangdong morning tea culture-eating a few cages of snacks and touching a cup often leads to a single business.
Today, Guangzhou's "morning tea culture" is moving towards the whole country. "What made me see the sun before the weekend morning 10? In order not to line up to eat some dude. " A Shanghai citizen left a message on the food review website. Last year, Diandude, a teahouse in Guangzhou, went out of Guangzhou and settled in Shanghai, quickly becoming a queuing shop for online celebrities, often waiting for an hour. Less than a year ago, Diandude has opened three branches in Shanghai, including the branch in Xintiandi business district, and has received more than 13000 comments from netizens. In addition to Diandude, Taotaoju and other "old brands" have also gone out of Guangzhou and opened to other cities, which have been loved by local people.
"Packaging, AA system" has become a new fashion.
After sighing morning tea in a teahouse in Guangzhou, I often hear the phrase "no need to wrap it", which means "please wrap it for me". This is the unique "packaging culture" in Guangzhou food culture.
People take food as the sky, and food takes ceremony as the first priority. Eating is an important part of social life, and table civilization is an important embodiment of social civilization. In addition to diet, Guangzhou people have long been deeply rooted in the civilized habits such as "compact discs" and packaging.
In China, the act of "packing" is generally considered to have first appeared in Guangzhou. Since 1980s, Guangzhou, as the frontier of reform and opening up, has been at the forefront of the country in terms of market economy. As a city famous for its commerce and trade, Guangzhou people understand the importance of practicality, comfort and luxury. The gene of "low-key and pragmatic" is rooted in the bones of Guangzhou people.
Scholar Gao believes that the consciousness of equality, fairness and material interests in business activities is also reflected in eating habits. For example, Guangzhou people never insist on drinking at banquets, and most banquet dishes are in moderation. Guangzhou people's pragmatic diet style, frugal but not luxurious, is the inevitable result of the development of modern social civilization.
In this context, Guangzhou people have formed the habit of "packing" at the dinner table, and developed into their unique culture, which exerts a subtle influence on the people who make a fortune in Guangdong. Gradually, the civilization on this dining table spread all over the country with the saying of "paying the bill" and "packing", which had a far-reaching impact on the diet and lifestyle in other places.
Similarly, the food culture that flows from the dining table in Guangzhou to the whole country and has great influence is also AA system.
AA system is the abbreviation of English Acting Appointment, which first appeared in Holland and Italy around16th century. At that time, businessmen in Italy and the Netherlands had developed the custom of exchanging information when gathering and leaving, and paying the bill when leaving. Businessmen are more mobile, and they don't know when to meet again after a meal, so sharing costs with each other has become the best choice.
For this reason, in the eyes of many scholars, AA system represents equal communication and is one of the most important symbols of western civilization. In China, this "dining table civilization" first appeared in Guangzhou, where commercial civilization is strong, which not only reflected Guangzhou as a window for civilized exchanges and mutual learning between China and other countries, but also had a great influence on the ideas of China people.
No wonder Yi Zhongtian described in "Reading the City": "The way of life and existence of Guangzhou people or Cantonese people has increasingly become the object of imitation by mainlanders. These influences go far beyond lifestyle, but directly affect the way of thinking and thinking. "
Urban vitality in "snack culture"
As night falls, Guangzhou people who have been busy all day in Sports West Street, Luoxi Food Street, Baoye Road, Yueken Road, etc., about three or five friends, sipped their mouths and walked into the store, quietly locking the freshest ingredients with their eyes. Senior foodies must know Baoye Road in Guangzhou, as well as the most famous crayfish, Putianguang, roasted oysters and Chaoshan casserole porridge here. But don't come during the day. The business hours of restaurants here are all facing the sunset and stepping on the morning glow.
But perhaps most people don't know that midnight snack in Guangzhou is the originator of midnight snack in China. Chen Xiaoqing, who is famous for filming China on the Tip of the Tongue, once said that Cantonese people's habit of eating snacks is determined by geography and climate. In the hot summer in Guangdong, there is no air conditioning at night, so people can't live at home. People have to stroll into the street to eat something. Unexpectedly, this snack culture, which originally belonged to the hot summer, has made Guangzhou a snack paradise, which has been handed down all year round.
Midnight snack also represents Guangzhou's "advanced" and "trendy". In 1970s and 1980s, Guangzhou became the bridgehead of China's reform and opening up. The rapid development of commerce and trade brought by the Canton Fair, the absolute geographical advantage adjacent to Hong Kong and Macao, and the new things and trendy culture blend here one by one.
The city night behind the midnight snack is the background of people coming and going in this city. They worked hard, and the city was open, enterprising and inclusive.
The open and enterprising spirit of this city is vividly reflected in Guangzhou. In the 1980s, Guangzhou took the lead in opening the free circulation of vegetables, fruits, fresh fish and other ingredients, which led many people to start businesses. Coupled with the comfortable and pleasant night climate, the midnight snack economy came into being.
In the early 1990s, Guangdong ended the circulation of food stamps before other provinces and cities in China, and Guangzhou's wholesale industry and commerce became more prosperous. The "tide of migrant workers" going south with the trend has not only brought abundant labor, but also made food stalls a market, growing in enthusiasm and popularity. Midnight snack has gradually changed from simple "adding meals" to an important life scene with social functions. Migrant workers from the south to the north not only taste Guangzhou cuisine, but also bring the food culture of the whole country and even the rest of the world, and the categories of midnight snack are increasingly diversified.
"If you don't stay up late, why do you want to stay up late?" As more and more people come to Guangzhou, it also brings Guangzhou's unique midnight snack culture to the north and south of the country. Snack may have different names in different places, but people's longing for late-night food is equally strong. The midnight snack culture handed down from Guangzhou has influenced the lifestyle of a generation.
In Guangzhou, this lifestyle continues. With the eastward expansion of urban economy, Jiang Yan Road Western Restaurant Bar Street, Pearl River pagan beer culture and creative arts area and other snack places have emerged as the times require for the "Nightcrawler". Employees of Internet companies gathered in Tianhe and Haizhu, after working overtime, joined hands to go to Kexin Road and Yuancun Food Street for supper, which also became a unique landscape in Guangzhou, reflecting the city's full of vitality.
Coordinators Chen Bangming and Huang Yingchuan
Proofread Luo Jianpeng
Author Yu; Liu Shiqiang
From Southern Plus Client of Southern Newspaper Media Group
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