Later, people found that the chicken stored in this way not only didn't go stale, but also was especially sweet and delicious, so it developed into a famous dish called Dongjiang brine chicken. This dish is characterized by crispy skin, smooth meat, fragrant bones and strong taste. The authentic way is to peel the chicken, dry it, rub the chicken cavity with salt, and add onion and star anise. Wrap the chicken with oiled sandpaper first, and then wrap it with a layer of plain sandpaper. Heat a wok with high fire, add coarse salt and stir-fry until reddish, then put it in a casserole, cover the chicken with hot salt and cook it with slow fire. Tofu made from Dongjiang originated from the habit of jiaozi in ancient Central Plains. Because there was no Michael to pack jiaozi when they moved to Lingnan, they came up with a way to eat tofu on holidays. Because there are soybeans in Lingnan, there are few noodles, so the soybeans made by predecessors are all tofu wrapped in jiaozi. Tofu is made by frying, soaking and boiling. The original pot is served on the table, steaming, fragrant and juicy, exquisite and very edible.
The method of making Dongjiang tofu is ok. First, choose tender and smooth Dongjiang landscape tofu and cut the tofu into small pieces. Chop pork, fish and shrimp into paste, add ingredients and stir into meat stuffing. Then dig a small hole in the middle with each piece of tofu and put the meat in it. Finally, stir-fry the wok with medium fire, fry the fermented tofu until golden on both sides, take it out, put it in a casserole, add soup and ingredients again, stew it with medium fire, add soy sauce, add chopped green onion and fish. Instant fried fat sausage is a widely representative Hakka specialty. Fried pork intestines is another favorite Hakka dish of Su Dongpo. It is said that when Su Dongpo tasted it for the first time in Ganzhou, Jiangxi (both Hakka areas) on his way to relegation, he was dumped by his unique flavor. After staying in Huizhou, I will never forget the unique charm of this dish. Every time I drink it, I will fry the large intestine with wine. When people see it so infatuated, they often exchange fried large intestine for its Mo Bao, and some simply call it "fried Dongpo"
Guangzhou cuisine and Chaozhou cuisine rank first in Cantonese cuisine, and the third is Hakka cuisine or Dongjiang cuisine? Also at the Southern Forum, the authoritative person in the catering industry said that the Hakka cuisine mentioned in the forum mainly refers to Meizhou cuisine, but in fact Meizhou cuisine is only the "mountain system" of Hakka cuisine, and Dongjiang cuisine is the "water system". The ingredients are different, but many production processes are the same. "In recent years, Dongjiang cuisine is better at innovation, but if it has to be divided into Dongjiang cuisine and Meizhou Hakka cuisine, it is also tied for third place."
Is Dongjiang cuisine unique?
"The three major cuisines in Guangdong are obviously Guangzhou cuisine, Chaozhou cuisine and Dongjiang cuisine. When did you add a Hakka dish? " A net post on the Southern Forum throws such a view. The relevant voting attracted more than 60 people to vote, with 55% saying that "Dongjiang cuisine is Hakka cuisine" and 45% saying that "Dongjiang cuisine is Dongjiang cuisine".
In the introduction of Guangdong famous dishes on the website of Guangdong Cuisine Association "Cantonese Cuisine Network", there is such a narrative: "Cantonese cuisine consists of three parts: Guangzhou cuisine, Chaozhou cuisine and Dongjiang cuisine. Among the Hakka dishes in Dongjiang, the dishes in Heyuan belong to Hakka dishes, with a strong taste of' fat, salty and cooked'. Hakka dishes include Dongjiang salted chicken, Dongjiang fermented bean curd and red meat ... "
Earlier, some media reported that "Dongjiang cuisine is also called Hakka cuisine, and it is also called the three major cuisines in Guangdong with Chaozhou cuisine and Guangzhou cuisine." Netizens who support this view believe that Dongjiang cuisine in Huizhou, Heyuan and other places is different from traditional Hakka cuisine in practice and ingredients, so it can become one of the three major cuisines in Guangdong. However, if you search for "Guangdong's three major cuisines" on the Internet, the results are mostly: Guangzhou cuisine, Chaozhou cuisine and Hakka cuisine (Dongjiang cuisine).
Lao Yibo, a landmark food judge in Guangdong, thinks that Hakka cuisine can be divided into "mountain cuisine", "water system" and "individual cuisine" if subdivided. The mountain system is what we usually call "Hakka cuisine", which is distributed in the mountainous areas of Meizhou and other places, while the water system refers to "Dongjiang cuisine". In other words, Dongjiang cuisine is a kind of Hakka cuisine.
Chen, a master cook in China and executive vice president of Meizhou Catering Industry Association, divided Hakka cuisine into five schools: Gannan School, Minxi School, Meizhou School, Dongjiang School and Overseas School. "Meizhou School is the representative of Hakka cuisine, and Dongjiang School is one of Hakka cuisine."
The composition of the two is different, but they are both "salty"
Hakka cuisine has the characteristics of "salty, cooked and fragrant", which is inseparable from the characteristics of Hakka people's migration from generation to generation and living in mountainous areas. Historically, Hakka people used a lot of salt to cultivate and sow seeds, so their diet was mainly salty and fragrant. In addition, pickles can be preserved for a long time in the era of underdeveloped technology. There is a lot of meat, because meat is rarely eaten at ordinary times, but in traditional festivals such as the Spring Festival, Hakkas always eat meat in chunks and never hesitate.
Traditional Dongjiang cuisine is also "fat, salty, cooked and fragrant", with heavy oil and salty taste. The sauce used is relatively simple, generally seasoned with raw onion, cooked garlic and coriander. Dongjiang cuisine rises in Huizhou and Heyuan, including Huidong and Boluo, and most of them belong to Dongjiang River Basin. The source of ingredients is near the mountains and waters, near the river and offshore. The natural choice of ingredients is more aquatic products.
When it comes to a dish, such as steamed fish, Lao Bo thinks that Dongjiang cuisine is less salty than Hakka cuisine in mountainous areas in processing aquatic products, but it is a little salty than Guangzhou cuisine, which pays attention to light and original flavor.
Hakka cuisine is original, while Dongjiang cuisine is innovative.
When did Dongjiang cuisine begin to be called "one of the three major cuisines in Guangdong"? Chen explained that there is a origin here. In 1950s, Xingmei 7 county belonged to Shantou area, until Meixian area was established in 1965. The original Xingmei 7 counties were separated from Shantou area, belonging to Meixian area and the predecessor of Meizhou City. China cookbooks in this period defined Cantonese cuisine, and now Meizhou area belongs to Shantou area at that time. Guangzhou cuisine and Chaoshan cuisine have always been the representatives of Cantonese cuisine. Considering that it is impossible for a special zone to have two major cuisines, the three major cuisines in Guangdong are classified as Guangzhou Cuisine, Chaoshan Cuisine and Dongjiang Cuisine.
The three major cuisines in Guangdong are Guangzhou Cuisine, Chaozhou Cuisine and Hakka Cuisine, and Meizhou School is the representative of Hakka Cuisine. Chen said that in 2006, China Cuisine Association awarded Meizhou the title of "Hometown of Hakka Cuisine in China". Meizhou Hakka cuisine maintains a strong local flavor, the original flavor of ingredients, and rarely uses rich seasonings.
In his view, diet needs profound cultural accumulation. Hakka food inherits the food culture of the Central Plains, new ingredients and eating habits after moving south, and is also influenced by the food culture of the nearby She people and other aborigines, Guangfu School and Minxi School.
Chen said that Dongjiang cuisine has been better commercialized in recent years, and some new dishes have been introduced. In particular, some high-end restaurants in Guangzhou have hung up the signboard of Dongjiang cuisine, which has increased the number of diners and promoted the innovative development of Dongjiang cuisine.
Lao Yibo believes that in recent years, Dongjiang cuisine has become more and more light, with more varieties and fewer snacks. If we must say that mountains and rivers are different, traditional Hakka fried tofu can explain the problem. Salted sauerkraut will be added to the stuffing of fried tofu in Dongjiang cuisine to balance the greasy feeling of tofu, while Hakka cuisine in Shaanxi will keep the traditional stuffing.