In Oracle Bone Inscriptions, which appeared in the 2nd/kloc-0th century BC, no vocabulary about exquisite pasta has been found. Therefore, the material and technical conditions at that time could not meet the basic requirements of pastry making.
During the Western Zhou Dynasty, due to the development of agricultural production, more abundant raw materials (such as five grains, five livestock, five vegetables, five fruits and five flavors) were provided. Due to the progress of handicraft production, production tools (such as Chu Jiu, stone mill, stone chips, steamer, pottery cake pot, bronze cutter, etc. ) is provided; Coupled with the needs of early sacrifices and banquets, a group of slaves specializing in kitchen work was born, and early cakes were born in the court.
According to the current historical data, there are about 20 kinds of cakes from the Western Zhou Dynasty to the early Warring States Period. They are mainly made of rice and millet, and can be cooked whole, broken and steamed, and made into paste. The fillings are meat, honey, wine and flowers, which are mostly round in shape and have attributes between cakes. Others are refined staple foods such as rice, porridge, soup and glutinous rice. Its varieties include flour (fried and ground barley), rice (boiled rice flour and meat sauce), glutinous rice (cake like a cake), bait (steamed cake or steamed cake), glutinous rice (marching dry food), honey bait (powder cake with honey) and so on.
First, sesame seed cake noodles jujube
I once read the article "Living Fossil in Food-Lion's Head" in a magazine. The article introduces in detail.
It is interesting to see the method of making "stone buns" with pebbles and the process of its emergence and development.
However, in the Yuan and Ming Dynasties, there was a kind of cake cooked with white sand or white heatable adobe sleeping platform in southern Jiangsu, which was called "sesame-cake noodle jujube". Yi Han
In The Legacy of Yiya, the method of making it is introduced in detail: "Take white flour, no matter how much, and knead it into dough with a little warm water."
Hard agent, then pour it down with a rolling pin, make chicken-like cakes one by one by hand, make them extremely smooth, and press them back to the depth of a bean at the waist with a sharp knife.
Cook the white sand in the pot until it is cooked, if it is jujube. A white pit is better than white sand. I roll cakes with less honey, but I make even less. "seems to be.
The making method of "sesame noodle jujube" is more complicated than "stone steamed stuffed bun". The main reason is the shape of this "cake"
Generally, it is oblate or rectangular, but it should be oval like an egg, and then engraved on the outside.
There are fine lines, just like the lines on candied dates. It should also be pointed out that the concept of "cake" in ancient times is not the same as today.
All the same. In ancient times, noodles could be called "soup cakes" and steamed bread could be called "steamed cakes". So, this "jujube" shape
It is not surprising that flour products are called "sesame seed cake noodles and dates". Unfortunately, "stone buns" are still being produced, and
"Sesame cake noodles and dates" are long gone. The author believes that if conditions permit, if the relevant units can dig out the production.
Come on, it will be welcomed by the market.
Second, roll pancakes.
Spring rolls are a delicious fried food. In early spring, they are sold in small towns in Jiangsu and Zhejiang. It's brown
The skin, fresh stuffing and attractive fragrance are quite attractive to diners. However, regarding the formation time of spring rolls, the pen
However, researchers have been unable to find the answer. Recently, when I was reading Yi Ya's posthumous works, I suddenly found one of them, Juan Jian.
Cake is an out-and-out "spring roll". The method of making pancakes is as follows: "Pancakes are the same as pancakes, two Jin of mutton and one fat."
Gold, or pork can also be used, probably like steamed bread stuffing, which needs to be pasted with batter and fried in oil slick to be red and burnt. Five wax vinegar ... "
Then, the author saw an example of "rolling pancakes" in the Complete Works of Household Necessities. Except for the stuffing, its making method is the same as Yi.
The description in the tooth remains is basically the same. It can be seen that in the Yuan Dynasty at the latest, there were many kinds of "spring rolls" with stuffing in China.
It's just called pancakes. Of course, using pancakes to wrap vegetables is earlier, as early as the Jin Dynasty.
Yes, its name is "Spring Plate". In the Song Dynasty, in addition to "spring cakes" (pancakes), there were "emerald green silk, golden rooster and jade silk".
Yan, with exquisite preparation, each is worth 10 thousand (The Legend of the Old Wulin). Although the Jin Dynasty had the custom of eating spring cakes in spring, the market also
There are "spring cakes" for sale, but there is no record of "spring rolls". It is estimated that it is more troublesome for people to eat spring cakes with dishes.
So I invented "rolling pancakes". Therefore, in ancient times, "spring cakes" were famous, but "spring rolls" were not.
Nowadays, the custom of eating spring cakes has declined, but spring rolls have taken its place.
Third, Dan Osmanthus Jelly.
People often describe autumn as "the golden wind is refreshing and the sweet-scented osmanthus is fragrant". Red osmanthus is full of color, fragrance and taste.
Rich, it is really a treasure in flower viewing. However, the ancients also regarded osmanthus as their favorite food. It is recorded in the Relics of Haicha.
A famous pastry is called "Dan Osmanthus Jelly": "Dan osmanthus picks flowers, sprinkles licorice water and rice bran powder to make cakes, and the fragrance is full of cheeks.
"China people have a long history of eating cakes, and there were similar foods as early as the pre-Qin period. Later, there were more and more kinds of cakes.
More and more, such as "stone furnace cake", "jujube cake", "Peng Yan cake", "big milk cake", "sugar cake", "millet cake" and "
Wheat cake, bean cake, flower cake, cake cake, ice cream, dry cake, milk cake, spiced cake.
Hong Gao, yam cake, yellow sponge cake, Misha cake, oil cake, snow cake and soft fragrant cake.
Cake, egg cake, tuckahoe cake, three-layer cake and so on, but it is rare to make cakes with osmanthus. probably
Dan's osmanthus is so rare that it can't be made in ordinary places. It can be seen that "Dan Osmanthus Jelly" is the best of ancient cakes.
It should be pointed out that there is an example of "Guanghan cake" in Lin Hong's "Shanjia Qing Palace" in the Song Dynasty, which is also made of osmanthus and rice flour.
Yes, but it is estimated that it was made by Jingui (yellow osmanthus), which seems to be another matter.
Fourthly, cold washing of Sophora japonica leaves.
In his poems, Du Fu praised an ancient cold noodle-cold scouring of Sophora japonica leaves. This is noodles made of Sophora leaf juice and flour.
After the noodles are cooked, soak them in ice water or well water for cooling. Therefore, when eating this kind of noodles, there are "cold teeth"
The feeling of "snow" If Du Fu's poems are written implicitly, it is not easy to see the production process of Huai Ye Han Tao.
In other words, we can also refer to the poem "Cold Pottery with Chamomile" written by Yu Wang, a famous poet in the Song Dynasty. There is such a sentence in the poem: "... pregnant."
It's warm in the south, and chamomile has hedge roots. The long buds touch the soil and the small leaves are clear. Pick the harvest and wash away the traces of morning dew. With a new face.
Fine and solid as a jade pier. Fall with the silver wisp, boil it and throw it into the cold spring basin. Mixed with this cyan, fragrant enemy Sun Lan ... "In the poem,"
The method and characteristics of cold training of chamomile are clearly written. Because of the addition of chamomile, noodles are "cooked in a cold spring basin"
Juice, so the color of cold scouring is green, and "fragrant enemy indigo" can be described as good in color and fragrance. Later, the Yuan Dynasty "cloud"
There is also a "cold noodle method" in Tang Lin Food System Collection, which uses mandarin fish, perch and shrimp as "ingredients" for cold noodles.
It tastes good, too. In a word, there are many kinds of ancient cold noodles. Look at the ancient cold scouring and think about the cold noodles today.
The author thinks that the production of the latter is simplified. In fact, it is not difficult to change some patterns. Even if "Sophora leaves are cold washed" and "fragrant"
"Cold-washed chrysanthemum" is difficult to mass-produce. Can we have a "cold washed spinach"? Cold cooking with fish and shrimp as ingredients
It's not too difficult to do!
5. Method of making Huangque steamed bread
In Ni Zan's Yunlintang Diet System Collection in Yuan Dynasty, there is a "yellowbird steamed bread method": "Use yellowbird, brain, wings and onions."
Chop pepper and salt together, soak them in the stomach, wrap them in fermented noodles, make them into small long rolls, which are flat and round at both ends and steamed in cages. Or steamed, such as
The steamed bread method is not good, and the fragrant (oil) frying is particularly wonderful. "The yellowbird, also known as the reed yellowbird, is small in size and has a clear song. mankind
Children generally like to keep it. However, yellowbird is also a kind of game, and its meat is tender and delicious.
So it has always been a delicious food in ancient times. In rural areas around Zhejiang, when rice is ripe, people often "cast nets" to catch it.
Yellowbird ". In the market of Lin 'an (Hangzhou) in the Southern Song Dynasty, there were many dishes made of yellowbird, such as "honey roasted yellowbird".
, "stuffed yellowbird", "fried yellowbird" and so on (Meng Lianglu). Although there are many kinds of dishes made with yellowbird, they are like
The practice of "Huangque Steamed Bread" is still relatively rare. Because the yellowbird is wrapped in noodles, its original flavor is preserved, but the outside
The first layer is wrapped in yellowbird, with game of yellowbird. So "Huangque Steamed Bread" has two jobs, and cakes are outside.
There are dishes in it, which complement each other and are wonderful.
Six, shrimp cake
There are "shrimp cakes" in the menu of snacks with the garden: "raw shrimp, a little onion, salt, pepper, sweet wine,
Add water and flour, and the sesame oil will burn through. "This kind of" shrimp cake "at first glance, thought it was a dish. In fact, it is based on shrimp meat.
A "rotten sesame cake" made of flour. Now there are many people in Jiangsu who are good at making "rotten noodles" and they are all vegetarians.
. In early spring, Yangzhou people like to use rotten peas to make sesame cakes, which are green in color and delicious.
A popular "advanced" pastry. If traced back to the source, the history of yuba sesame seed cake seems to date back to the Zhou Dynasty. ceremony
There is a snack called San in Ji nei ze: "take the meat of cattle and sheep, cut it into small pieces, and mix it with rice."
Two meters of meat, let's be bait and fry. "It seems that this' three' is mixed with the same amount of cattle, sheep, diced meat and rice noodles.
Then fry it. It is worth noting that the diced meat in this "three" is not used for stuffing.
, but directly in rice noodles, which is similar to today's rotten noodle making method.
Seven, soup meat package
Now there are more and more places to make soup packets. However, there are still quite a few people interested in making "glutinous rice balls"
I don't know much about the process, and there is even a joke circulating: some customers actually think that the delicious marinade in the soup bag is for injection.
The shooter went in. Actually, the making of dumplings is not complicated. As early as the Jiaqing period of the Qing Dynasty, Lin Lan, a native of Ganquan (Yangzhou), was already crazy.
There are clear records in Hanshu 300 Poisons and Pouring Soup and Meat Bags: "In spring, autumn and winter, broth is easy to coagulate. Pour it into Romania with the condensate.
Grinding flour thought it was steamed bread. When steaming, the soup will melt and not leak. Yangzhou tea shop is very good at it. "So, LanLinchi also.
Write a poem: Hard to swallow and easy to taste, Tuan Tuan is the most tolerant.
You don't have to be mean when you are strong outside, but you must be careful when you heat up.
Although the poem is ordinary, it also shows that there is hot soup hidden in the soup bag, which is "hard to swallow in the mouth" and easy to burn.
Whether the glutinous rice balls were first created by Yangzhou chef or not, the author failed to make a careful textual research and dare not decide. I remember reading it in my notebook,
In the Southern Song Dynasty, there were "grouted steamed buns" for sale in Lin 'an. I suspect that this kind of "grouted steamed bread" is something similar to glutinous rice balls.
If so, dumplings would have been available in the Southern Song Dynasty at the latest. Having said that, Lin Lan is stupid about "soup packets" anyway.
This record is still very valuable information for us to understand the ancient soup packets. History has developed to this day, and the production technology of soup packets is
But with the new development and improvement, the variety has also increased. Especially when someone points out that thanks to the refrigerator, soup packets can
It is cooked all year round, and it is no longer necessary to solidify the "broth" into stuffing by the low temperature of "spring, autumn and winter".