High-quality leather clothes are soft and full in hand, elastic, uniform in body thickness, uniform in pattern and spinning, smooth and natural in leather color, and consistent in luster of adjacent leathers. Similar light and shade, even dyeing, no fading phenomenon. Wipe the surface with white paper several times, and the paper will not be colored. There are no spots such as lice bites and insect bites on the leather surface. Clothing is finely sewn, generous in style, flat and level, and there is no warping, skewed stitches, and uneven leather stitches. Inferior leather garments are rough and hard, with inconsistent patterns, and the adjacent spliced leathers have different luster, or are asymmetrical and uncoordinated. Rub the surface with white paper for several times, the paper will be colored, and rough spots such as lice bite marks will appear on the leather surface, or thick wrinkles, unevenness, curling edges and skewed stitches will appear.

In addition, the genuine leather shall bear the genuine leather logo:

Dermal marker

The genuine leather logo is a certification trademark registered in the State Administration for Industry and Commerce. All leather products with genuine leather logo have three characteristics: 1, and the products are made of high-quality genuine leather; 2. This product is a medium and high-grade product with excellent workmanship; 3. Consumers can enjoy good after-sales service when they buy leather products with genuine leather logo. Products that are not made of genuine leather cannot wear the genuine leather logo. If you want to wear the genuine leather logo, you need to go through the strict examination and approval of china leather Industry Association before you can wear it. China leather Industry Association conducts quality inspection every year to ensure product quality.

The registered trademark of the genuine leather logo is an artistic deformation pattern consisting of a whole sheep, a diagonal and a leather shape. The overall pattern is a circular drum with three letters GLP in the center, which is the English abbreviation of genuine leather products. The main color of the pattern is black characters on a white background, and only three letters are red. Moral of the pattern: Cattle, sheep and pigs are the three main natural leather raw materials for leather products. The pattern is round and drum-shaped, which symbolizes the drum of the main processing equipment in leather industry on the one hand, and the rolling development of leather industry on the other hand.

How to identify genuine and fake leather goods

1, the meaning of dermis

"Genuine leather" is a common word in the leather products market, and it is a conventional name for distinguishing natural leather from synthetic leather. In the concept of consumers, "genuine leather" also has a non-fake meaning. It is mainly made of animal skin. There are many kinds of genuine leather, with diverse varieties, different structures, different quality and different prices. Therefore, genuine leather is not only the general name of all natural leathers, but also a vague mark on the commodity market.

Physiologically, any animal's skin has hair, epidermis and dermis. Because the dermis contains reticular small fiber bundles, it has considerable strength and permeability.

The epidermis is located under the hair and close to the dermis, which is composed of epidermal cells with different shapes. The thickness of the epidermis varies from animal to animal, for example, the thickness of the epidermis of cowhide is 0.5 ~1.5% of the total thickness; 2-3% of sheepskin and goatskin; While pigskin is 2-5%. The dermis is located under the epidermis, between the epidermis and subcutaneous tissue, and is the main part of rawhide. Its weight or thickness accounts for more than 90% of the rawhide.

1, how to identify dermis

Touch by hand: that is, touch the leather surface by hand. If it feels smooth, soft, plump and elastic, it is genuine leather. But the general synthetic leather is hard, hard and soft.

At first glance, the pores and patterns of dermis are clear, the pores of cowhide are well-proportioned and fine, the pores of yak skin are coarse and sparse, and the pores of goatskin are fish-scale-shaped.

Smell: All dermis has the smell of leather; Moreover, artificial leather has a strong plastic pungent smell.

Ignition: tear off a little fiber from the back of genuine leather and artificial leather. After ignition, it is artificial leather that emits a pungent smell and forms a knot. It's genuine leather that smells like hair without induration.

2. Distinguish artificial leather from synthetic leather

With the above four basic identification methods, it is obvious to compare and identify artificial leather and synthetic leather. In addition, artificial leather and synthetic leather have the following characteristics:

1. When leather is pressed with fingers, there are no obvious pores and wrinkles. If there are wrinkles after pressing, they will not disappear naturally.

2. There are no pores on the leather surface, which is an important feature to identify the authenticity of leather.

3, cut off the corners and burn, there is a taste, but it is not the smell of burning hair.

Characteristics of some leather samples;

* Italian deerskin and original lambskin.

Color: black, brown, beige and purple. Texture: flexible, friendly, elastic and smooth.

Appearance: Fine lines, clear and uniform, noble and elegant.

* American litchi grain and glass grain cowhide

Color: black, brown, brown, dark brown texture: leather is flexible and heavy, and feels warm and moist.

Appearance: noble and heroic, rough texture, mild and natural luster.

* Italian buffalo hide

Color: black, brown, brown texture: leather is flexible and thick, and feels friendly.

Appearance: noble and heroic, with delicate lines and mild and natural luster.

* Italian embossed fine check leather

Color: black, brown, brown, dark brown, green and pink. Texture: The leather is flexible and heavy, with excellent hand feeling.

Appearance: noble and elegant, fine and regular texture, soft and natural luster.

* Spanish embossed double leather

Color: black, brown, egg green, purple, gray, milky white texture: flexible leather, excellent feel.

Appearance: Precious and elegant, with delicate and regular lines and mild luster.

* Crystal polished cowhide

Texture: The leather surface is slightly hard, durable and moist for a long time. New appearance: Special sewing technology endows the product with distinctive features.

* Crystal litchi cowhide

Texture: thick and firm, but elastic. Appearance: thick stitches and dermatoglyphics match the flexible nature of cortex, and both steel and flexibility are available.

* Crystal face animal grain cowhide

Texture: thick and firm, with skin-like elastic appearance: super-thick arts and sciences are inconspicuous, and natural luster shows dignity and personality.

* Korean soft cowhide

Texture: flexible and thick, with low gloss. Appearance: conservative but not rigid, mature and steady.

* Italian polished calf leather

Texture: delicate, bright, flexible and solid appearance: modern but primitive, noble but not arrogant, reserved and elegant, gentlemanly.

* Italian embossed stone cowhide

Texture: flexible and firm, with a special light color. Appearance: special grain color makes eyes bright and pleasing to the eye, fashionable and noble.

1. Classification: There are great differences in fur type, color, width, origin, processing methods and so on. According to different situations, there are the following classification methods.

According to different sources, it can be divided into wild animal skin and domestic animal skin; According to different producing areas, it can be divided into Northeast Road, Northwest Road, Southwest Road, North China Road and Jiangnan Road. According to the different picking seasons, it can be divided into winter skin, spring skin, autumn skin and summer skin. Winter skin is also called seasonal skin, and the rest is called non-seasonal skin. Due to different processing methods, it can be divided into cylindrical leather and flaky leather; Due to different drying methods, it can be divided into sweet dried skin and salt dried skin. According to the different quality characteristics and main uses, it can be divided into leather making, fur making and leather making. Fur can be divided into small capillary skin, large capillary skin, wild mixed skin, livestock fur and fetal fur according to the source, hair type, length and width of plush.

1, capillary skin: the pointer is dense, straight, thin, short, fluffy, flush, flexible, smooth and elastic, and the color is bright and bright; A piece of leather with thin and tough skin, small width and high wool value. Mainly suitable for making beautiful and lightweight high-grade fur coats, fur collars, shawls, inlaid necks, fur hats and so on. Tail hair is long, strong and elastic, which is the first-class raw material for making high-grade brushes and precision instrument brushes. It mainly includes: mink skin, purple mink skin, meta skin (weasel), snow sweeping skin, tiger skin, otter skin, squirrel skin, mousetrap skin, marmot skin, muskrat skin, loose wolf skin, tiger skin, muskrat skin and so on.

2. Capillary skin: the skin with long, straight, thick, dense, elastic and good luster, often with multi-color knots, long and full fluff, wide width, bright color, light and tough board, which has high fur making value. Mainly include: silver black fox skin, blue fox skin, raccoon skin, lynx skin, raccoon skin, Jiujiang raccoon skin, agate skin and so on. Most of them belong to the skin of dogs and cats.

3. Wild Miscellaneous Hair: A kind of fur with thick and hard hair, thin fluff, inflexible plush, thick skin, beautiful pattern or single color, which is suitable for making general warm clothes and tapestries, carpets, mattresses or decorations. Including rabbit skin, badger skin, green skin, yellow skin, fragrant skin, black skin, silver mouse skin, flying squirrel skin, gossip cat skin, bamboo mouse skin, tree mouse skin, stone badger skin, wolf skin, jackal skin, various leopard skin, tiger skin and so on. (* Yao Yin on the left, Yan on the right and Tik Tok on the right)

4. Fur made by livestock: refers to a kind of fur piece made by some livestock whose fur has been changed. It is full of fur, smooth in color and thin in skin, suitable for making fur, mainly including various sheepskin, cashmere skin, dog down skin, rabbit skin, cat skin and so on.

5. Fetal hair: the skin produced by some livestock cubs who have never changed their fetal hair, collectively referred to as fetal hair. One kind of fetal fur is natural casualties, and the other is artificial control and regular slaughter. Fetal hair needle hair is short, almost lint-free, multi-curved, with different shapes, obvious patterns or flower bends, good luster, small width, thin skin and tender meat, and good elasticity. Suitable for making all kinds of long and short coats, fur collars, fur hats, etc. Give priority to beauty, supplemented by warmth. It mainly includes all kinds of lambskin (three north lambskin, sheep lambskin, improved lambskin, etc. ), small lake sheepskin, all kinds of kid skin, pony skin, etc.

Second, the quality appraisal

1, rawhide quality requirements

Length 1. 1: determines the thickness of the whole quilt, and also relates to the aesthetics and softness of the quilt. The length of wool is based on the maximum length of long wool when it reaches maturity in winter.

Table 1 Coat length of several animals (cm)

1.2 wool density: refers to the number of hairs per unit area (roots/cm), which determines the warmth of fur. Different mammals have different hair densities in different parts.

Table 2 Hair density of several mammals (roots/cm)

1.3 Plush thickness and softness: refers to the thickness difference between the plush of the same animal. Thick plush quilt has good elasticity, but poor aesthetics. The thin plush quilt is more elastic, softer and more beautiful. Generally speaking, the quality of capillary pile foot is good, but the quality of coarse pile is poor.

The softness of the coat mainly depends on the ratio of the thickness and length of the hair shaft and the ratio of the number (composition) of needle hair and fluff. The ratio of the fineness (micron) of hair to the length (millimeter) of hair is often used as the softness coefficient. In actual operation, you can touch the fur with your fingers and determine it by feeling. Generally divided into four types: soft cotton (fine wool sheep, hairy mouse, rex rabbit, etc. ), soft (mink, stone mink), semi-soft (mink, otter, etc.). ) and hard (marmot, beaver, badger, etc. ). There are great differences in the fineness of hair shaft and the proportion of needle hair fluff among different fur animals. The ratio of mink needle to fluff is: needle 1.7%, and fluff is 98.8%. Silver fox and black fox are 2.4% and 97.6% respectively; Raccoons are 4.5% and 95.5% respectively; The nutria were 2% and 98% respectively.

Table 3 Wool fineness of several fur animals (unit: micron)

1.4 color and beauty of fur: the natural color of fur plays an important role in identifying the quality of fur. The color of hair fibers is determined by the pigments existing in cortex and medulla. Melanin and brown pigment are basic pigments, and other colors are regulated by the content and mixing degree of these two pigments. Pigments come in two forms: granular and dispersed. The former produces darker colors, while the latter produces lighter colors. The luster of hair is related to the density of scales arranged on the surface of hair. Generally speaking, the thinner the scale, the closer it is to the hair shaft, the smoother the surface and the stronger the reflection.

The brighter the luster, the stronger the luster of coarse hair and needle hair. The color and luster of the coat are related to the beauty of the coat. Different fur has its own unique coat color, so the requirement for coat color lies in whether the coat color conforms to the appearance characteristics of animals and whether the coat color is correct. All animals with the same coat color are required to have the same coat color. Especially the back and abdomen have the same coat color. Different colors of hair are not allowed, neither dark nor light. If the coat color consists of more than two colors, it should be coordinated to form a natural and beautiful tone. For animals with stripes and spots, stripes and spots should be clear and obvious and evenly distributed. The shape, quantity and distribution of animals with unique patterns and spots have become one of the important indexes to identify fur quality.

1.5 elasticity and felting performance of wool: wool with good elasticity is flexible, loose and less felting. Generally speaking, the finer the wool fiber, the easier it is to be felt. Wool treated with chemicals will reduce the felting performance.

1.6 weight and area of leather board: the weight of leather board is proportional to the thickness and area. See Table 4 for the variation law of fur weight and area before and after deep processing.

Table 4 Comparison of tare weight and area before and after processing

* According to the information of Chen Kebin and others.

The reason for the weight loss and area increase of fur is of course related to the structure and thickness of the leather board itself, but the comprehensive technical measures (external causes) of the new technology can not be ignored. The change law of tare weight and area before and after processing can be used as one of the basis to measure tanning effect.

1.7 plate quality and damage: the quality of the plate depends on the thickness, thickness uniformity, oiliness, thickness and surface elasticity of the plate. The number, size and distribution of leather boards and wool quilts have great influence on the quality of fur making. Therefore, disability is also an important condition to measure the quality of rawhide.

2. Several factors affecting the quality of rawhide?

There are many factors that affect the quality of hides, but they can be divided into two categories: natural factors and human factors. Natural factors mainly include species, sex, animal age, health status, living area, production season and so on.

2. 1 species: Because the species of protozoa that make fur in raw hides have great influence on the use value of raw hides, it is stipulated that "species ratio is poor" or "species ratio is poor" in fur purchase. Take leopard skin, a series of products in fur industry, as an example, leopard skin 100%. 65% of Chinese mugwort leaf leopard skin, 50% of tortoise print leopard skin, 20% of red spring leopard skin, sesame leopard skin, raccoon leopard skin and ink leopard skin.

2.2 Gender: There are also great differences in the size and quality of skin between men and women. Therefore, there is a "gender ratio difference" in product acquisition. For example, the male skin of mink is 100% and the female skin is 80%.

2.3 Animal age: The fur quality of mature animals is good, while the fur of old animals is thick and long, with poor luster and thick, hard and rough skin.

2.4 Living area: The quality of fur produced in cold areas and tropical areas is different. Generally, the quality of fur produced in cold areas is better, but among the raw hides with patterns or spots, the fur produced in warmer areas has clear patterns and better quality. Fur has regional characteristics and different quality, so different "regional differences" are stipulated.

2.5 Skinning season: There are obvious differences in fur quality in different seasons. Therefore, it is necessary to grasp the peeling time in time and identify the maturity of fur before peeling.

Human factors include feeding management, peeling method and primary processing technology, fur storage, packaging and transportation.

3. Quality identification of fur: The length, fineness, cleanliness, density, skin thickness, elongation, bursting strength and tearing strength of fur can be measured by instruments. However, at present, the sensory appraisal method is widely used. By means of seeing, touching, blowing and smelling, the quality appraisal is carried out according to the processing requirements and grade specifications, based on practical experience. Shake, look, touch and blow when identifying the quality of plush.

Shaking the fur: first put the fur on the inspection table, first hold the fur's rear hip with your left hand, then hold the fur's nose with your right hand, gently shake it up and down, and observe the quality of the fur.

Look: the richness and elasticity of plush, its color, whether the Mao Feng is uniform, whether the back and abdomen are the same color, whether there is disability or defect, the shape and size of the tail.

Touch: Touch by hand to understand the thinness of leather board, the density and softness of plush.

Blow-drying: check the degree of dispersion or reduction of wool, the growth of wool and its color (white cashmere or gray native sheep down).

Smell: The fur is improperly stored, and it smells rotten when it decays.

The quality of plush usually has the following three manifestations:

Wool is thick enough (all plush): the plush is long, dense, fluffy and elastic, which can be easily shaken by blowing with your mouth and can be recovered quickly. Mao Feng's flush does not collapse, its color is smooth, its tail is thick, and its native sheep has enough down.

Plush is slightly empty or short and thin: plush is slightly short, and it will be flat with a gentle shake, dull and weak in luster. Hair on the abdomen or neck droops slightly. The needle hair feels a little hollow and the fluff is sticky.

Plush hollow or thin: the needle hair is short or long and dry, the surface is dark and shiny, the fluff is short and thin or long and thin, the feel is hollow and the tail is thin.

When identifying fur, the quality of wool and plate is the main factor, and the whole face is measured and scored comprehensively in combination with the degree and size of disability (or defect). Four differences should be considered in determining the price of leather: grade difference, size difference, gender difference and color difference. The difference between wild skins depends on the region.

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