What to eat 1. inby shredded mustard with bean juice.
In Beijing breakfast, bean juice is the most annoying thing. New Weekly counted "living in Beijing 100 fear" a few years ago, and bean juice ranked in the top ten.
However, the rigorous style of old Beijing will tell you that bean juice is actually drunk in the afternoon (Mr. Zhao Heng, a Beijing-style gourmet, wrote in "The Gourmet's Random Pen" that it turns out that bean juice is usually sold in the afternoon in old Beijing). However, since breakfast shops in Beijing also sell bean juice now, let's have a chat!
According to Du Niang's introduction, bean juice is the product of the leftover from making water mill mung bean vermicelli or starch, which is fermented regularly and then boiled. Of course, the raw materials are not noble, but the "cooking" in the process of making bean juice is very particular: iron pot and aluminum pot are absolutely forbidden, because the metal components will react with bean juice, and the taste will naturally be inferior, so to make bean juice well, it is best to use casserole, and if the cost is considered, stainless steel pot can also do it.
Temperature is also exquisite, Wang Zengqi Wang Lao summed up the methodology of boiling bean juice:
"You can only boil the bean juice with a small fire. If the fire is big, the bean juice will be' _' as soon as it is soaked."
A pot of bean juice should be kept open forever. Once it bubbles, pour in raw bean juice and then slurp until the whole pot of bean juice is thick and silky, like sesame paste, which is the perfect gesture of extreme luxury.
You are also particular about drinking bean juice. In this regard, Liang Shiqiu summed it up best:
"Bean juice is wonderful, one in acid, sour with a rancid smell. Second, when it is hot, you can only drink it slowly, and you can't gulp it. Third, the spicy pickles make the tip of your tongue numb. The hotter you drink, the hotter you drink, and finally you sweat. "
Among them, the word "hot" is the key, not only because it can make people feel comfortable, but also because of the influence of the temperature of bean juice on the taste. If the temperature is not enough, there will be a swill smell, but if it is hot enough, the taste will not be a grade, with sweetness in acid and astringency in sweetness, which is the level of taste. I remember someone said that if the bean juice is missing that sour smell, it will lose its soul, and that is fake bean juice!
The partner who drinks bean juice is also particular. Spicy pickles are the first companion. Deng Yunxiang wrote his thoughts in "Notes on Old Beijing":
"In fact, bean juice is basically the same, the difference lies in pickles. When drinking bean juice, you must have spicy pickles. The quality of spicy pickles is very particular. Cut' Shuige _' (that is, the mustard head pickled with salt water) into hairlike filaments, fry the dried peppers in the oil pan until brown, and even pour the hot oil and peppers into the shredded pickles. When' Cha La' rings, its fragrance is incomparable. When drinking bean juice, you should eat this delicious spicy pickles with you.
In addition to spicy pickles, there must be inby's son, who pays attention to frying with incense. When fried and sold now, fried food has to be eaten hot, which is crisp and fragrant. Drinking hot bean juice, eating a small dish of spicy pickles and two inby children until the tip of your nose sweats, which is really full of body fluid!
Oh, yes, remember it must be "bean juice", not "bean juice" A word difference, the taste is far from it.
2. Stir-fried liver
Stir-fried liver is undoubtedly the most "misnomer" of Beijing snacks. The reason for saying this is simple. This snack is neither fried nor has more than liver in it. Tang Lusun summed it up most succinctly and clearly:
"Braised pork liver and pork intestines with minced garlic".
The treatment of pig intestines pays attention to methods, and some famous chefs use neither vinegar nor alkali.
Instead, the intestines are cut open and the intestinal oil is scraped off with a knife.
This can not only ensure that the treatment is clean and hygienic, but also retain the smell of the intestines themselves, killing two birds with one stone.
The choice of liver should not be sloppy. The liver between two and a half pounds and three and a half pounds is the best among the livers. There are tendons and gall on the liver, which must be removed, otherwise it is a bitter liver that is difficult to chew.
Boil pig intestines and liver with slow fire, cut the cooked pig intestines into "thimble segments", and slice the pig liver into willow strips. Also prepare garlic sauce: put star anise in the hot oil, fry thoroughly, add garlic, and add appropriate amount of yellow sauce to fry garlic sauce.
First, put the cooked sausage into boiling water, then add the garlic sauce, chopped green onion and the mushroom soup cooked before, then put the liver strips into the pot, thicken them with starch, stir them into paste, sprinkle with garlic paste before taking off the pot, and fry the liver in a pot.
I also pay attention to drinking fried liver, right,
It's "drink", not "eat".
Stir-fried liver is put in a small porcelain bowl from the pot. Authentic old Beijing uses neither chopsticks nor spoons, but holds the bowl with one hand and spins around in circles. Tender liver, slippery intestines, and a smell of garlic, this bite is "sucking", and then a steamed stuffed bun stuffed with pork and green onions, which is full of Beijing spirit.
3. Tofu brain
In Beijing breakfast, tofu brain is the most eaten! To make bean curd brain, it is necessary to pay attention to the brine, which is the best test of the master's skill. It can't be done if it is old or tender, and it must be just right to achieve the taste of "brain".
If you want a bowl of bean curd brain, the master will put the bean curd brain into the bowl first, then fill it with broad halogen with an iron spoon, and sprinkle with garlic paste and Chili oil according to your personal taste.
The taste of a bowl of bean curd is important, but its taste depends on that spoonful of marinade. Southerners eat more sweet bean curd, but in Beijing, it must be emphasized that:
This bean curd must be salty!
Cut yellow flowers and fungus into pieces, put them in a pot, add starch and soy sauce, boil them evenly, beat them with egg blossoms, and finally add beef or mutton to refresh them. Of course, there are more exquisite ones.
Just put mushrooms in it, which is even fresher!
4. Sugar cake
Sugar cake in Beijing is a feature of Muslim breakfast shop.
To make sugar oil cake, the dough is very particular at first. Adding baking soda and salt to the flour can make the oil cake soft and delicious. It takes three hours to mix the dough, then use the same proportion of brown sugar flour, fully knead it, roll it with the oil cake flour into thin noodles, and then fry it in the pan.
The frying method is also exquisite. Let the brown sugar be cooked first, so as to fry the brown sugar, otherwise the sugar and cake will be separated.
Deep-fried sugar cake, salty and tender cake and sweet brown sugar with bright tar are integrated. When eaten hot, it is crispy and crispy, and when eaten cold, it is soft and sweet, which has a unique flavor.
5. noodle tea
Face tea is a strange word for most non-old Beijing. In fact, it is not as popular as fried liver and bean curd. Now it can only be eaten in several traditional old shops. Noodle tea is called tea, but it's not tea, but the zuo made by living and moving hard.
Zuo's name can better explain the noodle tea: millet batter with sesame sauce (shy face)
The main ingredient of noodle tea is millet flour. Boil the ground millet flour into paste, and put a little alkali into it when cooking, which can improve the viscosity and taste of noodle tea. A bowl of qualified noodle tea requires a very high taste, which should be thick enough and smooth enough. This scale depends entirely on the experience of the master.
A bowl of tea is put into the bowl, and the next step is to pour sesame sauce. Exquisite traditional old shops will have a slightly padded copper bowl with sesame sauce and two bamboo chopsticks.
The master holds a bowl of noodles with tea in his left hand, and pulls out chopsticks from the bowl with his right hand. The chopsticks that come out stir up sesame sauce and pull it into silk, and then spread it evenly on the noodles with great speed. In just a few seconds, a bowl of noodles with tea is covered with sesame sauce. In the face of such wonderful craftsmanship, Deng Yunxiang once admired in the article:
"It seems like a beauty covered with a veil, gently, thinly, with a layer of lubricated brown on the delicate yellow surface. It seems like a magician in front of you, and it is more beautiful than the chocolate cake you see in the discerning window. "
But this wonderful skill is rare now, and most shops will use it now.
Bowl-shaped colander for pouring sesame sauce
The holes of the colander are very thin and many, and sesame paste pours down from the holes of the colander.
It's like a very fine rain falling on the noodle tea. Although this technique is not very traditional, it still looks very interesting and ornamental!
Finally, sprinkle some sesame seeds, sprinkle some salt and pepper, and you can drink. Yes, it is also "drinking", not "eating". The drinking method is as exquisite as fried liver. You don't need chopsticks or spoons. You hold the bowl with your hands, pout your mouth against the edge of the bowl, and turn the bowl into your mouth-suck it!
6. Bean bubble soup
Not all the breakfasts in Beijing are complicated or even heavy-mouthed. Let me tell you: there are also some simple and easy-to-make snacks-fried tofu!
Fried tofu is a traditional title, but in fact its other name is more appropriate:
Bean bubble soup.
Accurately speaking, this is also a halal snack, and the method is not complicated: you can buy tofu to fry it yourself, or you can buy it ready-made, put it in a pot and cook it with pepper and star anise until the soup turns white and the beans are soft and rotten. Take another big bowl, put _ good sesame sauce and soy sauce tofu juice at the bottom of the bowl, or put some leek flowers and Chili oil according to your own taste, then pour the cooked fried tofu into the bowl with hot soup, and sprinkle some coriander-writing at this moment, the saliva is not limited.
The traditional collocation is to have a sugar cake, of course, you can also follow your own wishes. The sesame paste biscuits that have just been baked from the inside out are also perfect. A hot sesame seed cake, a hot fried tofu, this is a hot positive energy in the morning!
Just say it, are you particular? Pay attention to it! ! ! !
So particular, why are there so many people scolding!
I think that the main reasons are as follows:
First, although the people of the whole country are United, which city has so many migrants besides Beijing? Old Beijing in Beijing accounts for a pitiful proportion. but
"it's hard to adjust"
These four words, the experience in Beijing early, are the most profound. The opinion about Beijing's breakfast is the loudest, which has a lot to do with the large proportion of foreign population and the large base.
Beijing Breakfast Address Daquan Where to Eat 1, "Unknown" Steamed Bun Stall
Speaking of breakfast in old Beijing, you must go to niujie first!
At the entrance of niujie Beef and Mutton Market (at the intersection of Jiaozi Hutong and Input Hutong), there is a cart selling steamed buns, and there is no signboard. Every morning at 6:20, I have been working for more than 20 years, and everyone in the old street knows it. His family only sells beef stuffed buns, two yuan each, which is really delicious! There is a table next to the car, with vinegar and oil chili pepper on it. Many people who buy steamed buns at his house stand by the table and eat. With a bowl of purple rice porridge, comfortable!
2, Manji sesame seed cake
Go west along the steamed stuffed bun stall 100 meters, and there is a full-recorded sesame seed cake. Frontispiece is very small, but there are a lot of aunts and grandfathers waiting in line early in the morning, all of whom are ten and eight to buy baked wheat cakes. There are sesame sauce and salt and pepper, one yuan each, buy five and get one free. His family also sells fried chicken legs, which cost three yuan and get one free. Someone bought sesame seed cakes from this house and then bought some sauce beef clips to eat, and they will also enjoy it!
3. Shiji Muslim sesame cake pie
Cross the road after buying sesame cakes from Manji, and then walk about 100 meters to find the Shiji Pie. Frontispiece, who is not big, is next to a cattle and sheep butcher shop. Pies are filled with beef, green onions, beef leeks and beef fennel. Beef and leek are highly recommended. The meat is thick and juicy. The combination of leek and beef is too fragrant. It is satisfying and enjoyable to bite down! There are large pots of neatly washed leeks in the back kitchen of the store, which is also reassuring to watch. Those who want to eat beef fennel should come back after ten o'clock, and the fennel stuffing is mixed late. Pie is five yuan each and a bowl of millet porridge, and you can eat enough for six yuan. His sesame seed cakes are also very fragrant, one by one.
4. niujie Hongji Snack Bar (niujie New Store)
Go west from Shijie, turn right at the traffic lights in Songzi Hutong, and you will see Hongji. Hongji is a time-honored brand in niujie. You can find all the old Beijing halal breakfasts and cakes here. There is a dinner at noon and evening, and there is a tripe. For breakfast, I recommend his bean soaked soup (4 yuan) and bean noodle meatball soup (4 yuan). The fried soft bean bubble is full of soup, and it is very enjoyable to take a bite of juice. The soup tastes light and delicious. You can continue the soup!
The bean noodle meatball soup tastes slightly salty, and the meatballs are soaked in the soup, and the taste is particularly moist when eaten in one bite, unlike the meatballs in some places that are dry and hard.
Remove fried cake and toad spitting honey (bean-stuffed sesame seed cake)! Brother must also watch!
Bean-filled sesame seed cake (2 yuan) and fried cake (2.5 yuan) must be the main points! ! Bean-filled sesame seed cake is also called toad spitting honey. A mouth is opened on the side of the sesame seed cake, revealing a little bean stuffing, just like a toad's mouth. The fried cake is made of rice noodles, soft and crisp, and it is as good as Jingtianhong! The big steamed stuffed bun with beef and sheep meat tastes ok, but there are too many onions in the stuffing! But the little brother selling steamed buns is very handsome. Haha ~ ~
5. Muslim Turpan Restaurant
It's next door to Hongji. It's very easy to find. The most fragrant and delicious tofu brain in old Beijing belongs to his family. Where is it delicious? You scoop a spoonful of brine with a white porcelain spoon and then pour it out. Obviously, the spoon is covered with shredded pork like hair. That's right The halogen of his tofu brain is hooked by beef stew, and the halogen and porcelain spoon will not lie. There's a lot of meat in it, too. It's delicious! Tofu is ordered with brine, with bones and muscles, and you can feel different when you enter. My mouth is pale, and I think it would be better to be a little lighter. Chopped soup is also very good, measured and clean.
6. Jubaoyuan
Across the street from Hongji is the old treasure source, and his family also has breakfast. Sesame cakes, steamed stuffed buns, Dalanlong (6 yuan) and Caiwotou (2.5 yuan) are also lined up. It's not just the breakfast window that queues up, but the window next to it selling beef and mutton is even longer.