First, the diet is diversified.
(1) Grain: As an agricultural nation, the Han nationality has always occupied a major position in the diet. There were no crops such as corn and sweet potato in Song Dynasty. According to local conditions, the cereals of northerners are mainly millet and wheat, while those of southerners are mainly rice.
There are many kinds of pasta. What you eat on the fire is called sesame cake, what you eat in the water is called soup cake, and what you eat in the cage is called steamed cake. Song Renzong's famous Zhao Zhen, in order to avoid the emperor's anonymity, people understand steamed cakes as sesame cakes, also known as cage cakes, similar to today's steamed bread. Soup cake is noodle soup, which is the process from noodles to noodles, also known as noodles. ① The sheep noodles, tung skin noodles, meat noodles and cooked tung skin noodles sold in Kaifeng food store, and the pig sheep noodles, shredded chicken noodles, three fresh noodles and bamboo shoots sprinkled with meat noodles sold in Lin 'an noodle restaurant all belong to soup cakes. In the late Southern Song Dynasty, "medicinal chess noodles" appeared, which was "only one minute thin, as thin as paper". There are sesame cakes in the Hu cake shop in Kaifeng, such as door oil, chrysanthemum, wide coke, thick edge, pith cake, full hemp and other varieties. Some sesame cakes are undoubtedly stained with sesame seeds, while oil cake shops sell steamed cakes, sugar cakes, packaged cakes, lead plates and other varieties. Food stores and night markets also sell white meat Hu cakes, pig pancreas Hu cakes and vegetable cakes. This kind of prickly heat is also called rice cake. In Su Shi's poem, it is said that "blue oil is tender, yellow and deep", which is undoubtedly fried pasta. All kinds of pasta are sold in Lin 'an, collectively referred to as "steamed food". In addition, it is estimated that it should also be made of rice flour or flour. ②
There are steamed buns and wonton in Song Dynasty, such as plum blossom steamed bun, Cao meat pie, bamboo fern wonton, pulp steamed bun, thin skin spring cocoon steamed bun, shrimp steamed bun, meat cake, sugar steamed bun and imperial academy steamed bun. 4 York's poem "Steamed Bread" said: "Zi Peng Sheng has red wisps of meat, and General's iron bar has white lotus skin." It means steamed buns. After Song Renzong was born, his father, Song Zhenzong, was "very happy" and "all the courtiers in the palace ate steamed bread, and they were all golden beads". (5) This is the word "steamed bread", which means good luck. Cai Jing's "gathering people to hold a family meeting" and "ordering to make crab yellow steamed bread" was "more than 1,300 yuan" and his government.
(1) Huang: Miscellanies of Jing Kang Su Su, Volume 2, Soup Cake; Cheng Dachang: Xiufanlu, Volume 6, 5438+05, Not at ease, and the sequel to Volume 6, Steamed Cake; Ho: Yes, Volume 4, Politics in Zong Wei; Wu Zeng: Notes on Neng Zai Zhai (volume 15) distinguishes soup cakes from boiled soup cakes. (2) Volume III of Senator Meng: A Dream of Tokyo, and Volume IV of Puxi, Xingjie Ma, Food Store and Bakery; Wu: Dream (16) noodle restaurant; Gao Cheng: The Origin of Things, Volume 9, Hu Bing; Zhuang Chuo: On Chicken Rib Roll, Zhou Mi Wulin Biography, Volume 6 Steamed Food; Countless Victory Records of Old People in West Lake; Ling: Yu Feng Zhi contains "Native products and food". (3) Lu Juan Jiu Wonton,: Rat Pu Juan Wonton. (4) Yuan: "Wind Window" (Volume 2); Lin Hong: The Qing Palace in Shanjia, Volumes I and II; Dream Liang Lu (Volume 16), a vegetarian in restaurants and food stores. ⑤ York: Yu Jun Ji, Volume 3; Wang: Yan Yi Thought Record, Volume III.
Specially set up a "steamed stuffed bun kitchen", in which "scallion man" can't "wrap steamed buns". This is one aspect of the ruler's luxury.
One is to make biro, cover it with dough, fill it with fruit or meat and seasoning, and then bake it. (2) About similar fried dumpling and jiaozi.
Rice and millet are mainly used for cooking and porridge. There are seven treasures porridge, five flavors porridge, millet porridge, sugar bean porridge, sugar porridge and cake porridge in Lin 'an area. In the Song Dynasty, there was a custom of drinking Laba porridge in both north and south. Kaifeng is called Qibao Wuwei porridge, and Lin 'an is called Wuwei porridge. On December 25th of the lunar calendar, "people cook red bean porridge to worship the god of food, which is called population porridge". (4) Fan Chengda's poems describe the customs of Suzhou: "On the 25th of the twelfth lunar month, rice is like pearl beans", and "Ginger crumbs and cinnamon poured with sucrose are smoother and sweeter than cattle." . 5 pea barley porridge, pea jujube porridge and the like eaten in the north, the latter should be millet porridge. ⑥ Glutinous rice food also includes chestnut jiaozi, cakes, bean balls, hemp balls, jiaozi, water balls, sugar cakes, honey cakes, chestnut cakes and milk cakes. Gao Peng is made of "white tender, cooked, mashed, mixed with rice flour, added with white sugar (fried) and steamed". Water polo is wrapped in sugar to make fragrant soup, and rice flour paste is steamed rice flour with sugar. ⑦ There were rice noodles in Song Dynasty, called rice noodles or rice noodles. When describing "rice noodles" in Xie Fangde's poems, he said: "Zhang Huayao's line is straight and flexible. The ocean of soup is boiling "and" it tastes better than soup cakes ". Zongzi is "a famous kind of millet", which was called "drum" or "drum zongzi" in the Song Dynasty. At that time, "it was the custom to steam rice in bamboo tubes" and add dates, chestnuts and walnuts during the Dragon Boat Festival. Pet-name ruby this custom has been passed down to this day.
Limited by the ancient production level, it is also very difficult for the broad masses of the lower classes to maintain food and clothing. As Sima Guang said: "Farmers and silkworm wives eat chaff, but they are not full." Attending the northern poor usually drink millet gruel, or "mixed vegetables are mixed". ⑾ porridge is also often used for disaster relief, for example, "Hu Zhou Confucius and Ya Zhu used rice 800 stone as porridge to relieve poverty". Ouyang Xiu's poem "Eating Bad People" says: "Tian Jia grows glutinous rice to make wine", "There is no porridge in the kettle to spend winter and spring, and you will be an official in the future.
The difference of staple food between the north and the south in Song Dynasty is quite obvious. However, during the Northern Song Dynasty, 67 million stone rice was transported to Kaifeng every year, so some northerners, especially officials and soldiers, also lived on rice. Song Huizong's favorite is that "Wang Nai's home is adjacent to a temple", "Snow-white rice grains flow out of the ditch of Wang Nai's home every day", and a monk "filters, cleans and dries the rice grains in the sun, which have accumulated for several years." Cai Jing's "grandchildren are very fertile, but they don't know their crops." Cai Jing once asked them, "Where does rice come from?" One man said, "Get out of the mortar." The other man said, "No, I saw it on the mat." This is because the rice in Song Dynasty was transported by mat bags. Southerners "rarely use noodles as bait".
(1) Zeng Minxing: Journal of Duxing, Volume 9; Luo Dajing: Helin Yulu Volume 6 Shredded Onions. (2) Summary of Shengji (189), Treating Women's Blood and Qi by Eating, and Cooking in China (1988). (3) Old Wulin Stories (Volume VI), Porridge and Dream of Liang Lu (Volume 13) and People in the Dawn have all withdrawn from the market. (4) Tokyo Dream of China Volume 6 5438+00 December and Dream of the Beam Record Volume 6 December. ⑤ Fan Chengda: Shi Hu Shi Hua, Volume 30, Mouth Count Porridge Line. ⑥ Su Shi: After Dongpo Collection, Volume 4, Tangyin City, A Pea and Barley Porridge Show Three Sons; Zhou: farewell to the clear waves 1. All landowners dream Liang Lu (volume 13) all kinds of groceries, Wulin past events (volume 6) cakes, Shanjia Qing Palace (volume 6); Tao Zongyi: Wan Shuo 106 Vegetable Recipe. 8 as high as the sun: Wei Lue, Volume 4; Xie Fangde: Dieshan Ji Juan San Xie rice noodles. Pet-name ruby things Jiyuan volume nine zongzi. Attending Sima Guang: "Biographies of Sima Civil Servants" Volume 48 "Official Letter of Begging for Agriculture". ⑾ York: "E Guo Jin? Compilation Volume 4 Chronology of Wang E Shi Hang. ⑿ Wang Gong: Miscellanies of Shen Jia; Ouyang Xiu: Complete Works of Ouyang Wenzhong, Volume 4.
The joke said: "The child is unstable from sleep first, and even leans the stick against the door. Why not buy a pancake medicine and kill it? " (1) In the last years of Shaoxing, Song Gaozong, Jin Jun retreated from the north after failing to attack the Song Dynasty, and "abandoned the millet mountain products", while Song Jun "has many people from Fujian, Jiangsu and Zhejiang who can't eat millet, so there are dead people every day". This can be regarded as an extreme example of southerners not eating northern food.
At the turn of the Northern Song Dynasty and the Southern Song Dynasty, with a large number of northerners moving south, the double cropping system of rice and wheat in the Yangtze River basin became more common. In April this year, farmers in many places "had enough of wheat and rice", but in some areas such as Fuzhou, Jiangxi, "they were tired of cheap wheat and rice and refused to eat wheat and rice, so they refused to grow wheat and rice". (3) Yushan County, Xinzhou, "Qi Xie's wife is not filial to her aunt. Every meal is made of wheat, but she doesn't have enough to eat. She eats her own rice". In addition, if people grow buckwheat in Raozhou, they can feed for a month or two. When you are hungry at different times, you can get radishes, vegetables and rice, and you can also live. (4) "There are mountains between Yuan and Xiang, and farmers only grow millet"; (5) Their staple food is the same as that of northerners. In Hainan Island, "the produced japonica rice is not enough to eat, but the rice mixed with potatoes and taro is used as porridge to get satiety". ⑥ Southern Yao people "plough mountains for a living and eat millet, beans and taro". The above examples show that Renye Fang doesn't just eat rice. ⑦
(2) Vegetables: Vegetables occupy an important position in the diet of Song people, which is known as "vegetables are not as good as valleys". There are many kinds of vegetables in Song Dynasty. There are all kinds of vegetables on the road between Zhejiang and Lin 'an, such as moss, dwarf yellow, big white head, small white head, yellow bud, mustard, lettuce, spinach, lettuce, bitter vegetable, ginger, onion, leek, garlic, eggplant, cucumber, wax gourd, gourd and honeydew melon. In Huizhou, on Jiangnan East Road, the vegetable varieties are mustard, celery (including bamboo celery and water celery), garlic, onion, ginger, leek, coriander, Yuntai, alfalfa, spinach, radish, lily, taro, burdock and water bamboo. 8 There are various vegetables in Fuzhou, Fujian Road, such as fermented grains, mustard greens, radishes, black sunflowers, white beans, lettuce, Yuntai, Cai Yong, Jinshui, pineapple, bitter vegetables, oriental lettuce, eggplant, amaranth, coriander, Hao Tong, bracken, ginger, onion and leek. Many vegetables also have different varieties. According to the "Fungus Spectrum", there are famous mushrooms such as Fugu mushroom, Pleurotus ostreatus, Chestnut shell mushroom, Tricholoma matsutake, Dictyophora, Maigu mushroom, Jade mushroom, Yellow mushroom, Purple mushroom, Four Seasons mushroom and Amanita mushroom. ⑨
It seems that there are differences in vegetable varieties in different places, especially in the south and north. Sichuan Su Shi once wrote a poem praising Zhang: "Gui" rolled down; Duxing MagazineNo. 10; "Chicken ribs" roll. (2) Xu: Compilation of the Northern League of the Three Dynasties, hereinafter referred to as Compilation of the Northern League, Volume 246. ③: Huang Richao (Volume 78), Advice on Planting Maiwen in the Mid-Autumn Festival in the Seventh Year of Xianchun. 4 Hong Mai: "Jian Yi C Zhi" Volume 8 Xie Qi Sao; Shi Hong: Panzhou Anthology Volume 46 Drought Miscellaneous Son. ⑤ Zhang: Supplement II to Miscellaneous Notes of Yungu slash and burn. 6. After Dongpo, Volume 6 "Wen Zi is Self-sparse", and Dongpo continued to compile Volume 3 "He Kangnong"; Li Guang: Zhuang Jianji Volume II and Su Shi's Poems. Go to Africa in a few weeks: an answer from beyond the ridge Volume 3 People. See Zhu Ruixi's Cooking in China19851northern cuisine and southern cuisine in Song Dynasty,19941rice noodle exam. ⑧ Luo Yuan: "Xin 'an Zhi Volume II Vegetable Ru"; Hidden friends: "Xian Chunlin An Zhi" Volume 58 "Property"; Mengliang Lujuan 18 attribute. Pet-name ruby Liang Kejia: dishes in Three Mountains of Xi Chun (Volume 4 1); "Say money" volume seventy "bacteria spectrum".
Second, the prosperity of the catering industry
The catering industry and commodity economy developed simultaneously in Song Dynasty, especially in big cities. In Kaifeng City at the end of the Northern Song Dynasty, "market brokers' houses often only buy food and drinks in city stores, but they don't care about the vegetables at home". "The night market doesn't reopen until after midnight, so if you want to make trouble, you will know everything." Although there is heavy snow and rain in winter, there is also a night market. " The night market sells all kinds of cakes, fruits, meat and soup. And "people who sell tea with bottles." Pay five shifts a day ",soup shop" occasionally fill the lungs and fry the lungs. The hotel sells more candles, no more than 20 cents per minute, porridge, rice and snacks, and occasionally sells facial cleanser and fried soup and tea medicine. " The catering industry in Kaifeng generally includes restaurants, food stores, cake shops and tea shops. The dining style and cuisine of restaurants can be divided into three categories: northern cuisine, southern cuisine and Sichuan cuisine. "Everyone is extravagant and picky, whether it is hot, cold, warm, whole or absolutely cold, fine casting, fat casting and so on. "Kaifeng has many famous restaurants and restaurants, such as Alum Building, which was later renamed Fengle Building. In Xuanhe, Song Huizong, "The three floors are higher, the fifth floor is opposite, and each floor has a flying bridge sill, which is connected with light and shadow, embroidered with bead curtains and brightly lit". Vegetarianism in temples has also become a catering industry. In the famous Suoguo Temple, "Every time you meet a vegetarian, you will not be able to distinguish between eating tea and fruit and moving appliances, even though it is 300% to 500%. " ⑤
The catering industry in Lin 'an in the Southern Song Dynasty included tea shops, wine shops, tea-matching hotels, noodle restaurants and vegetarian restaurants. Its famous shops include sweet bean soup in front of the grocery store, Gejiami jujube, Guanxiangkou Guangjia soup, Qiantang Waisong Wusao fish soup, Yongjinmen Guanfei, Wujianfangmi roasted seeds and nuts shop, Ran Yan Hotel in the southeast corner of Taiping Square Street, Chaotianmen Lizhujiayuan molasses cake shop, Lehe Building and Xichun Building. The catering industry in Lin 'an often imitates the Kaifeng fashion in the Northern Song Dynasty, and there are also morning markets and night markets, and aquatic dishes are particularly rich. There are all kinds of delicious food in the restaurant. "Anyone who drinks soup can ask for soup at will. Although ten guests want it blindly, they can do it. If you oversell, you can remember everything. You can make supplies without hard work, and you are not allowed to make mistakes. Before the wine is served, set several dishes for viewing, and raise a glass to replace the exquisite dishes. (1) the old learning temple notes, volume 6; Shi Shengzu: Xue Zhai Zhan Bi, Volume 4 "Sugar boiling began in Han Dynasty, not in Tang Dynasty". ② Naideon: Jisheng Restaurant in Beijing; " Dream of Liang Lu, Volume 13, Various Colors of Grocery. (3) "chicken ribs" roll. (4) Zhang: "Complete Music" Volume 26, on fund-raising service; Shi Yang: Guishan Collection 1 Shang Shengyuan Emperor. (5) Dream of Tokyo, Volume 2, Night Market in Qiao Zhou, Restaurants, Fruit for Losing Weight, Volume 3, Surname Trading in Suoguo Temple in Puxi, Xingjie Ma, People Entering the Market at Dawn, Volume 4, Food Store. For the catering industry in Kaifeng, please refer to Chapter 7 (II) of Zhou's Study of Tokyo in Song Dynasty.
The easier it is, the weirder it is. "Local" brokers usually have more houses than shops and buy food and drinks quickly. " ①
Of course, the catering industry in the Song Dynasty also showed class differences. For example, in Lin 'an, "there are restaurants selling vegetable soup, fried tofu, fried fish, fried clams, cooked vegetables and fried eggplant. These restaurants are inferior people who want to eat and go to the market. " There are also "workshops" that produce jiaozi, steamed bread and lung washing water. "Or those poor and poor people, all goods are taken from the workshop, and they will be directly compensated at the latest. Although there is no penny, you can make a living. " There are many food vendors along the street in the city. Kaifeng's "back alleys or vacant places turn to building houses. They live back to back in the community. This is the so-called yard. They are all small houses, selling steamed pears and dates and steamed cakes and beans with yellow cakes every day. " (2) "A citizen of Fanyang City, Zhang Er lives by selling porridge". "Residents in the west of Fuzhou, your family is very poor, you can only open a small tea shop and often lack food." "Raozhou sells the blood of pigs and sheep cooked by four people and sells people to raise their wives and children. The daily income cannot exceed that of 200 yuan. " ③
Small towns and transportation hubs also have restaurants. For example, "Zhu Han, a native of Guangzhou, moved south to Chen Da Village, Yiyang County, Xinzhou" and "Jingshan, a place name, opened a hotel and guest house. In the winter of the seventh year of the Avenue, Nanju people went to the province to try, and the exchanges were very prosperous. " At that time, shops in rural and urban areas often engaged in catering. "The citizens of Yongfeng Township in Pucheng built a hotel, Yanzhou guests sent silks, and the rooms were anchored." Husband and wife are "drunk and dream of death", pursuing wealth and killing their lives. ④ The village where Wang Yiqi, a villager from Dexing Nancheng, is located; ⑤ This is a single country hotel. Lu You's poems include "Go to the small market in the middle of the night to buy wine to comfort the journey", "Niuyinqiao small market is east, and the store door is the same as the horse", "Singing on strangers, buying official wine under the bridge lamp", "Selling cold wine in the grass market", "Hungry cooking sunflower rice from a wild shop" and "Small market has wine bottles", which naturally cannot be compared with high-class restaurants in big cities. Another poem by Lu You tells the story of his stay in Shili Caoshi, Sichuan: "The moon is dark and windy, and the lights and green beds are full." Coarse rice is mixed with sand, thin vegetables and other grass thorns. Calm and full, I don't feel different. "In the Song Dynasty, government-run post stations often arranged meals for officials and scholars in the past. For example, Lu You wrote a poem in a post office in Mimou Town, Sichuan Province: "The post office hastily sets plates and pots. When you buy fruits and stir-fried vegetables, you can have more. " ⑦
Three. Eating habits and cooking skills
As we all know, there are great differences in dietary customs and cooking skills among different nationalities and times. It is common for Song people to have three meals a day. Chen Chun said that poor customers in rural areas "don't have enough for three meals, but there is only one meal in the town, or there are no diners at dusk". Today, the poor can't (1) dream of Liang Lu (13) and Puxi (16). All people go out to visit the night market at dawn (16). For the catering industry in Lin 'an, please refer to Chapter 8 of The Capital of Southern Song Dynasty: The Second Urban Economy by Lin Zhengqiu. Business. (2) Dream Liang Lu (16) noodle restaurant, Wulin past (6) workshop, Dream Tokyo Lu Hua (3) all kinds of miscellaneous sales. ③ Yi Jian Bingzhi (1 1) Zhang Erzi, Yi Jian Gui Zhi (8) You Bohu, Lv Sigong. (4) Yi Jian Zhi Ding volume seven jingshan guest house, Yi Jian a roll of three Pucheng road store to fly. ⑤ Jianyi Sanzhirenjuan 10 Guest of Wangyi Restaurant. 6. The third volume of Bo's poetry collection, Long Wood at Night in Jinduicheng, the sixth volume, Drinking in Niuyincheng, the 24th volume, Boating on the Bridge on the Lake in the First Four Days of beginning of autumn, the 28th volume, Village Residence, and the eightieth volume, Walking in the Mountains. All landowners "Bo Manuscript" Volume 6 "Mi Mou Town Inn Drinking", Volume 8 "Since the Guanghan Family Shili Grass Market". ⑧ Chen Chun: The Complete Works of Beixi University, Volume 44, On the Salt of anniversary in Shangzhuang.
Three meals a day can be guaranteed. Fang Hui's "temples don't farm food" and "two porridge and one meal after shaving" generally refer to the eating customs of Buddhism and Taoism in southeast China. He also said: "In modern times, Southeast Province suffered from learning to eat and cultivate scholars. One meal was broken into seven and a half, and the best white rice was also available. People often eat lilies to fight, and a meal can be for five people. Don't eat more than two meals, and don't worry at noon. " Although it is three meals a day, dinner is different. The main meal of monks and Taoists is one meal, while the main meal of students should be two meals in the morning and evening. According to the dietary customs of Song Dynasty and Tang Dynasty, "dim sum in the morning is dim sum", which is different from students' "take care of themselves in the afternoon". Dim sum is equivalent to hunger today. ②
Nowadays people often eat fruit after meals, while Song people eat it before meals. The ninth volume of Old Wulin Stories records the royal banquet of Fu Wang Zhang. At first, it provided dried fruits, carved flowers and honey, built fragrant and salty fruits, preserved preserved fruits, seasonal fruits and new fruits, and then provided dishes and wine. This custom is also reflected in the Water Margin, when a banquet is held to entertain guests, fruits should be placed on the table.
In addition, there are many regional and ethnic differences in the dietary customs of the Song Dynasty. For example, it is called "salty food in the south, sour food in the north, sweet food in four cities and villages, light food in Zhongzhou and cities". The ancient cold food festival didn't need hot food, but "cold food was forbidden to fire", especially "it was served in Hedong", "it was originally a cold food in January, so it was called January Festival" and "Shaanxi Right didn't give three days". Is there one in Kaifeng? Not strict. In ancient times, the custom of eating on the floor was completely changed in the Song Dynasty. However, at least some monks still retain ancient customs. Shi Shengzu "once watched Lord Huayan eat thousands of monks in Chengdu", "sat on the floor without tables and chairs, even the ancient banquet was set up" and "the meal room became silent". During the Northern Song Dynasty, the "rice monk of Suoguo Temple" in Kaifeng was in a similar situation. It goes without saying that monks are vegetarians.
Guangnan "Guangxi women give birth to men, take their placenta, wash it, cut it carefully and fry it with five flavors." Call the person you love to have a big meal and buy wine. If you don't do this, you will be angry. (4) Guangzhou people "regardless of wealth, old and young, men and women, from morning till night, would rather not eat rice and only love eat areca". Qinzhou people eat crabs, turtles, oysters and snails instead of fish, which is called vegetarian because it doesn't bleed. "The Li people in Hainan died, instead of eating porridge and rice, they only drank and ate raw beef, thinking that filial piety was right." The Han nationality and some ethnic minorities in Guangnan "eat everything, regardless of birds, animals, snakes and insects". Their food includes rats, locusts and beehives. Some ethnic minorities also have the habit of "drinking water through their noses", that is, inserting a "small tube" into their noses to drink water. Southerners "take boats as their homes, collect seafood for a living and eat it raw". ⑥ Yao people "grow crops, millet, millet, beans and potatoes, eat them miscellaneous, cut bamboo tubes and cook them, and hunt wild animals in their spare time to continue eating". When they "offered sacrifices to Pan Hu at the beginning of the year", they "mixed fish, wine and rice in wooden troughs and buckled the numbers on the troughs as gifts". Zhuang people like to "eat rice and water". All these became part of the rich and colorful food civilization in Song Dynasty.
China has a long history of cooking skills. In fact, in the Song Dynasty, many delicious dishes were cooked according to the principle of combining color, aroma, taste, shape and name. However, limited by the production level and social conditions at that time, cooking skills could only be enjoyed by a few people in the upper class. (1) ancient and modern examination paper 18. (2) Dim Sum, Notes on Changing Zhai, Braised Chicken Ribs, Volume 2 records that Sun sold fish to steamed cakes, saying, "Dim Sum is OK." (3) "Ping Zhou Can Talk" Volume II, "Chicken Ribs" Volume I, "Is it fast to learn? Bi "Volume II. (4) Cheng Peng: "Mo Ke Dao Xi" Volume II. ⑤ Answer to the Generation outside the Ridge, Volume VI, Eating Betel Nuts, Smell and Vegetarianism, Volume 10, Volume 33 1, which is quoted from Zhi Heng, Guangxi. 6. Gui is in Zhi Heng. ⑦ Volumes 328th and 330th of General Examination of Literature are quoted from Gui Chuan.
The aforementioned ninth volume of Wulin Biography records the royal banquet of lucky general Zhang, and provides the earliest list of royal banquets in China. Among them, there are 30 dishes in the "fifteen glasses of wine" alone, such as "the first cup is boiled quail with litchi flowers, the second cup is milk label and three-crisp soup, and the third cup is lamb tongue label and sprout belly". In addition, there are ten kinds of fruit banks to persuade wine, such as stir-fried kidney, roasted bacon quail, nourishing chicken and rabbit, fragrant fruit, carved flowers and honey stir-fried, stewed oysters and clams, and ten kinds of flavors to persuade wine in the kitchen, such as lotus duck, three treasures and glutinous rice. Some emperors in the Song Dynasty "gave the prince several pieces of jade food paper every day", which was written by my wife, such as white kidney with wine vinegar, quail eggs fried with three fresh bamboo shoots, pigeons fried, lake fish paste, fried frog and so on, totaling about 20 kinds. ①
In the Song Dynasty, there were so-called "four divisions and six innings" for luxury banquets. The accounting department is responsible for all kinds of furnishings, and the tea and wine department is responsible for tea soup, hot wine, seating arrangement and welcoming guests. The kitchen department is responsible for cooking, while the table and tray department is responsible for the delivery of cups, cups and plates. The fruit bureau, honey frying bureau and vegetable bureau are responsible for the supply of three kinds of food, while the oil candle bureau, incense medicine bureau and board arranging bureau are responsible for lighting candles, spices and cleaning. ②
At the end of the Southern Song Dynasty, a local official hired a "Kyoto cook" and had to "take it back to sit in a sedan chair". She bought "five cents for a sheep's head and ten cents for a sheep's head", only "peeled off the skin and threw away the rest", saying, "This is not for nobles." Five pounds of onion is just "take the heart of leek, dip it in light wine and acyl, and discard the rest." The other servants picked up the rest of the sheep's head, but she smiled and said, "If Dai is really a dog!" " The "signature" of the Song Dynasty is soup, and the dishes such as the sheep's head signature made by the chef are of course "crispy and delicious, delicate and delicate, and it is difficult to describe them as best as possible." "However, the chef must ask for a large sum of money as usual. The official had to feel that "this matter is powerless" and that "this kind of chef should not be used often. After two months, he will be entrusted with other things and kindly send it back. " Lin 'an's "lowest-class" cook can't even get a county order, which shows the extravagance of the rulers and the expensive cooking skills.
Judging from the existing historical materials of the Song Dynasty, including the recipes provided by Shanjia Qing Palace, people in the Song Dynasty used water, oil and various seasonings for cooking, such as boiling, steaming, frying, frying and baking, which is generally similar to today's cooking methods. In the Song Dynasty, I liked to name all kinds of food and dishes, which has been quoted many times before. For example, in Shanjia Qing Palace, there are golden roosters, jade for lung, fairy cakes, crisp stickers, Dongpo tofu and so on. Tofu is named after the writer Su Shi, and it is also unique. Today, it has become an important part of China's food civilization to get a good name for food and dishes. (5)( 1) "Random thoughts with Tibet" Volume II, "Talking about money" and "Jade Food Batch" in the ninth five-year plan. (2) The Capital is Extremely Prosperous, Four Divisions and Six Bureaux, A Record of Meng Liang (volume 19) and The Banquet of Four Divisions and Six Bureaux are fake leases. ③ See Zhu Ruixi's Cooking in China (1993, No.6) and China's Ancient Money. (4) "Said School" Volume 73 Hongxun "Gu Manlu". ⑤ In this chapter, please refer to Chen Weiming's "A Preliminary Study of Food Culture in Tang and Song Dynasties".