Home cooking is a dish that every family cooks and eats every day. "one side of the soil and water will support one side." Because of the different geographical position, products, living habits and dietary preferences, home cooking has formed different bases of its own flavor in the southeast and northeast. After development and popularization, they have become a kind of China cuisine.
Home cooking is the source of China cooking and the basic composition of local flavor dishes. Looking for the origin of Chinese food, start with home cooking. Master Huang Qingbiao, a famous chef of Hunan cuisine, sounded the opening gong of "On Unique Home Cooking Series" for us. Pepper, to drive away the wind and wet Hunan cuisine, focuses on sour and spicy. This is a collar shop made of astronomical fruits and flowers. Hunan is mountainous, with a warm and humid climate, and has been called "the land of high humidity" since ancient times. So we like to eat Chili. Pepper can warm appetite and drive away wind and dampness. Heavy spicy, become a professional requirement. Home cooking, especially showing this style. This is the menu that Master Huang didn't come: spicy chicken, squid with golden hook, lobster sauce pepper, hot and sour shredded pork soup, scallops and mustard gall. Steamed fish with black bean sauce and pepper, single-tailed Hunan-style silver wire. Six kinds of home cooking can simply collect the flavor of Xiangjiang Lake.
Home cooking often eaten by great men.
"Douchi Chili" is impressive. This person who talks about Xiangjiang home cooking has eaten it twice in China. One is the welcome dinner for the captain of the Yangtze River cruise ship; The other time was in Beijing. The Mao Family Pavilion was opened by Chi Yufeng, a secretary around a great man. Douchi pepper is said to be an indispensable home-cooked dish for every meal of that generation of giants. It can be called "authentic sect" and "Maojia cuisine". Master Huang's version of "Douchi Chili" is labeled according to the foot. It is original and spicy, and it is satisfactory. Have a good time. Stir-fried dried bean curd, celery, garlic, shredded pork, lobster sauce, bell pepper, red pepper and oil residue, with strong fragrance and heavy oil. The materials used are simple and simple, but they are just like hair.
Learn to overeat.
When it is fried, it becomes a small ring, much like a small earring hung on a big girl's ear hole. In Xiangjiang River, it was originally called squid with earrings. Thick, suitable for both eating and drinking. Shred the soft squid tube, add leek, yellow pepper and shredded pork and stir fry. Leek is fresh and tender, squid is bitter and fragrant, and shredded pork can improve the taste. It's really beautiful to blend rare materials into local home cooking. Pepper has dropped a lot, including chopping finger pepper, which makes people sizzle. . . . This is a typical Hunan home-cooked dish "squid with golden hook". Spicy, very suitable for Nanyang people's taste.
Hot and sour soup without red oil
The soup is made of bamboo shoots, dried bean curd, mushrooms and shredded pork. Wild vegetables, of course, have a tradition of emphasizing the sword chapter. Interesting materials are cut into tiny pieces, and this connection is twisted together. Especially this kind of dried bean curd silk has a more obvious influence on the master. Each batch has the same thickness and fine cutting, but they all have obvious characteristics, that is, they are not broken, and the egg skin silk has a unique emotional appeal. The soup is fresh but not turbid, which is different from Sichuan hot and sour soup with floating red oil. Spicy comes from Chili and sour comes from red vinegar. "Sour and hot shredded pork soup" is refreshing and delicious.
Salty and spicy chicken
Hunan is rich in natural products, and the home cooking is mainly seasonal vegetables and livestock. "Spicy chicken" is a common home-cooked dish, especially in Dongting Lake area, where everyone is delicious. Because the chicken is boneless and diced, many old diners can indulge. The diced chicken is marinated to taste, and the oil is more tender and smooth. Stir-fried with green and red pepper blocks, although there are pepper noodles and ground pepper blocks, but the spicy degree is low. Hemp but not strong, spicy noodles are not dry, which highlights the freshness of diced chicken. "Spicy chicken" expresses the rich, oily, salty, spicy and soft flavor of Hunan home-cooked food.
Mysterious lobster sauce
Reusing douchi is a major feature of Hunan home-cooked dishes. Douchi seasoning is always inseparable from the accompaniment of red pepper, which is another feature of Hunan home cooking. In the name of things, the seasoning effect of douchi is unique, salty and delicious. Many cuisines are seasoned with lobster sauce, which can be regarded as a great discovery of China's diet. "Steamed fish with lobster sauce and pepper" is a very extensive home-cooked dish. The wonderful taste lies in the use of dried lobster sauce and pepper as seasoning, which makes the meat firm, tender, fragrant and spicy. Master Huang chose cod, which is fresh and soft.
Hot pot is a traditional way of eating in China, which originated from the people and has a long history. Although the container, preparation method and seasoning of hot pot have evolved for thousands of years today, one unique feature has not changed, that is, the pot is burning and the food is boiled (rinsed) with water (soup). This cooking method appeared as early as the Shang and Zhou Dynasties, which may be the embryonic form of hot pot. It is recorded in Han Shi Zhuan that modern festivals or celebrations should be eaten by "ringing the bell and setting the tripod", that is, people from all over the world gather around the tripod and put beef and mutton in the tripod to cook and share, which is the sprout of hot pot. The "wood bucket" introduced in the history of China ceramics, which is put in a brazier to warm food with charcoal fire, may be the embryonic form of hot pot. It was unearthed in the tombs of the Eastern Han Dynasty. The diet knowledge recorded by Shu Wei in the Northern Qi Dynasty, "Casting copper as a utensil with a big mouth and a wide belly, called copper paste, is thin and light, and easy to cook", may be a kind of cooker similar to hot pot at that time. During the Three Kingdoms period, a kind of "five-boiling kettle" similar to hot pot appeared. The pot is divided into five compartments, and five flavors can be adjusted, just like the current "multi-flavor hot pot". 1984, a tomb mural was unearthed in Aohan Banner, Heidameng, Inner Mongolia. In the painting, three Khitans sit on the floor, surrounded by a hot pot, and one is cooking mutton. There is a table on it. There are two plates on the table, as well as feathers, wine bottles, mutton slices and so on. , depicting the scene of Erguotou Liao people cooking mutton hot pot.
What is really recorded is the hot pot in the Song Dynasty. Lin Hong, a Song Dynasty poet, mentioned eating hot pot in his Mountain House Qing Festival, calling it "offering a summer sacrifice". He talked about his trip to Wuyishan and Shidao, and he got a rabbit on the snowfield without a chef to cook. "Shi Yun: Only a few batches are used in the mountains, and the wine, sauce and pepper are alive (soaked in oil). Put the stove on the table, use half a glass of water (half a bucket), wait for the soup to ring (after the soup is boiled), and divide the chopsticks, so that you can put it in the soup (rinse) and cook (eat), but you can provide juice at will (everyone can eat at will). " From the way of eating, it is similar to the original "rabbit hot pot".
Hot pot didn't really prosper until it became bright and clear, which has been recorded by A Qing cooking practitioner Yuan Mei. In addition to eating hot pot between officials, from the scope, equipment and situation, the palace hot pot of the Qing royal family is the most fashionable. The winter food list of Qing emperors includes: home-cooked hotpot, mutton hotpot, raw meat hotpot, chrysanthemum hotpot, etc. There are single-ring square hot pot, egg ball fish round hot pot, split round hot pot and so on. On the tenth day of the first month of the forty-eighth year of Qing Kunlong, Emperor Ganlong hosted 530 tables of palace hot pot, which was the highest in the country and was included in the Collection of Archives and Historical Materials of Qing Dynasty. 1796, when Emperor Jiaqing of the Qing Dynasty ascended the throne, there were 1550 hot pots for food. The scale was amazing!
Chongqing hot pot appeared relatively late, probably in the Qing Dynasty, and there was a water pot at the banquet in Chongqing. Li Jieren, a Sichuan writer, said in his book The Story of the Wind and the Ocean that Sichuan hot pot originated in Chongqing. He wrote: "The hot pot for eating buffalo maw originated in Jiangbei, Chongqing. At first, normal retail investors bought buffalo viscera, washed and cooked them, then cut the liver and stomach into small pieces, put a mud stove on their shoulders, and put a dry pot and iron basin on the stove, which was filled with spicy and salty marinade. Therefore, ordinary enemies who sell labor by the river and at the bridge head are used around the baggage. Everyone considers a grid, eat it while it is hot, and eat a few pieces, which is considered as a branch line, which is economical and adds heat. It was not until 23 years of the Republic of China that a small restaurant in Chongqing made it noble. It moved from the shoulder to the table, and the mud stove was still there. It just changed the dry pot into a small copper pot, and the marinade and dipping juice were also changed to the diners' own cooperation, in order to be clean and suitable for people's tastes. " He described in detail the origin and development of Sichuan hot pot. In addition, there is a saying that Sichuan hot pot originated from Luzhou in southern Sichuan, and there is evidence that Chongqing hot pot is concentrated in Xiaomi Beach. It is said that boatmen on the Yangtze River used to live in Xiaomi Beach when they stopped, and they made a fire to cook and drive away the cold when they stopped. The cooker has only one crock, filled with soup, participated in various dishes, and added sea pepper and pepper to remove dampness. After eating, the boatmen are all beautiful. This appetite followed, spread to Chongqing to take root and sprout, and gradually enriched, becoming a unique food for Sichuanese.
According to Li Lao's records, it can be said that Sichuan-style hot pot originated in Chongqing. After the improvement of the catering industry, its color, aroma and taste have their own characteristics, so Chongqing hot pot or Shanxiang hot pot is the most famous. During the Anti-Japanese War, the hot pot in Chongqing was particularly prosperous, and many foreigners fell in love with it, and some even became addicted. Military and political dignitaries entertained them with hot pot as a delicacy. For example, Dai Li, the military leader of the Citizens' Party, once rocked a hot pot banquet for 500 people to show his extravagance. Some financial giants go to hot pot restaurants instead of big hotels, thinking that eating hot pot can not only stimulate appetite, but also blow up strong winds until. Later, gentlemen in the civilized world (writers, actors and painters) also became prisoners in hot pot restaurants. For example, the famous film director Xie Tian is a glutton who loves hot pot. Because of the changes in the market, hot pot has changed from hanging along the street to opening a shop. At the beginning of the Anti-Japanese War, many hot pot restaurants were opened in Chongqing, and there was a hot pot restaurant in Daxiang Street. Not only are there more and more Boye hot pot restaurants, but even some cold drinks shops, cafes and restaurants have begun to operate hot pot. Later, the most famous hotpot restaurants were Yunlong Garden Hotpot Restaurant and Shuyuan Hotpot Restaurant opened by Yang Hailin at Linjiangmen, Yisiyi Hotpot Restaurant opened by Lan at Bao 'an Road, No Drunk No Return Hotpot Restaurant opened at Road, and Qiaotou Hotpot Restaurant opened by Li Wenjun at the south bank of Haitang River. The reason why these hot pot restaurants were famous as mountain cities at that time was that the equipment was simple and comfortable. There are porcelain round or square tables, pot tables with low stools, and high tables with high stools (this is also the secret of hot pot management, because my husband and father in Chongqing used to wear long cheongsam, so it is very convenient to lie on the high stools). Only four people sit at each table. Dig a round hole in the center of the table and carry it into the mud stove. The gravy is served in a copper pot or aluminum pot, and the dishes are served in a porcelain plate in Phnom Penh. Some shops also have freezers. On the other hand, the service is thoughtful, and each table must have a special person to make the marinade (provide the right taste, pay attention to adding the marinade in time when eating, and change the marinade when changing tables). In addition, there is a special person to manage the fire. Charcoal is also very particular. Some people don't add charcoal to the table, but burn the ice red and add it to the stove to prevent smoking and dust accumulation. Each table is equipped with a teapot and a teacup, so that tourists can drink tea while eating hot pot, which makes the hot pot light. I am very particular about choosing ingredients when cooking. If you use the internal organs of cattle, it must be the belly, liver and waist of buffalo; Beef should also be beef tripe, red envelope meat (clean lean meat on beef legs) and monk's head meat; You must use live crucian carp to eat fish; When adding brine, you should also add old silver tea; Sweet materials use mash instead of charcoal sugar; Use the original flavor instead of monosodium glutamate to adjust intestines and dip vegetables. Vegetarian dishes only use pea seedlings, asparagus, shallots and garlic seedlings instead of spinach. Tofu is especially forbidden (tofu is not good for brine), but it can be used as a tip for workers. The stem and top plate should be removed from the hairy belly, and the special leaf parts should be cut into pieces about 10 cm wide.
Some compatriots who moved to Taiwan Province Province after living in Chongqing during the Anti-Japanese War still can't remember the hot pot in Chongqing after decades. They have repeatedly published articles mourning Sichuan-style hot pot in newspapers and periodicals in Taiwan Province Province, some of which say that Sichuan-style hot pot is used to spicy food, and then they go to a trilogy that loves spicy food. Some people also wrote a popular poem at that time: "Tianmen in the morning, Kaiba Mountain, hot pot restaurant, accompanied me for eight years of suffering, the food was spicy and fragrant, and the imprint of the foggy city was hard to disappear!" After decades, I still want to remember the "Sichuan hot pot" in Chongqing during the Anti-Japanese War. It can be seen that the attraction of hot pot is so great.
After liberation, the hot pot industry in Chongqing has been booming.
"Maodu Hotpot", "Clear Soup Hotpot" and "Yuanyang Hotpot" were replaced by one pot, which was well received at the 1983 Zibung Chef Appraisal Meeting. The manufacturing chef won the title of excellent chef. In recent years, the hot pot in Shen Qing has regressed in the competition, and has been renovated in the aspects of brine production, materials and eating methods.
"Maodu Hotpot" has not become one of the most famous snacks in Chongqing.