Hazelnuts have a hard shell and fat, white and round kernels that are fragrant and contain a lot of oil. They taste particularly delicious and have a lingering aftertaste, so they have become one of the most popular nut foods. Hazelnuts How to grow? Below is the hazelnut growing method I compiled for you. I hope it will be useful to you.

Hazelnut planting methods

Hazelnut planting conditions

1. Temperature: Different types of hazelnut trees have different temperature requirements. European hazelnut likes a warm and humid climate. The suitable average temperature is 13~15℃, the absolute minimum is -10℃, and the extreme high temperature is 38℃. Ping-ou hybrids are more cold-resistant than European hazelnuts and are suitable for cultivation in areas with average annual temperatures of 7.5 to 13°C and the lowest temperature reaching -30°C.

2. Light: Hazelnut trees are light-loving plants and generally require more than 2100 hours of sunshine per year. Otherwise, there will be few flower buds and low yield.

3. Soil: Hazelnut trees like to grow on fertile, well-ventilated sandy loam soil. In particular, Ping-European hybrids have high soil requirements, such as dry sandy soil, heavy clay soil, swampland, and salty soil. It is not suitable to establish hazel orchards in low-lying or low-lying areas. Pingu hybrids require a soil pH of 6.5 to 7.5, while Eucalyptus requires a soil pH of 5.5 to 7.

Hazelnut propagation technology

1. Sowing propagation: In the wild hazel forest, select clusters of plants with high yield, large fruits, and no pests and diseases as mother trees for seed collection, and select from them large grains, seeds Hazelnuts with plump kernels and free of diseases and insect pests are ready for sowing. The germination ability of hazelnut seeds lasts for 1 year. The best time for sowing is spring, usually in mid-to-late April. The row spacing for row planting is 60 cm, and the plant spacing is 6 to 8 cm. The row spacing for bed planting is 20 cm, and the plant spacing is 5 to 6 cm. When sowing, first dig a trench on the flattened ridge surface with a trench depth of 5 to 6 cm. Then sprinkle the pure seeds sifted out of the wet sand into the bottom of the ditch according to the above-mentioned plant row spacing, cover with 3 to 5 cm of soil, and press lightly.

2. Propagation by division: There are two methods for propagation by division. One is to dig up all the mother plants and divide them into several small clusters or individual plants. Each individual plant has a root system and 1 to 2 branch. The second is to dig out the root tillers around the mother plant cluster and separate out several plants, while the mother plant remains. The ramified seedlings should retain 20 cm of root segments and have a certain number of fibrous roots. After the ramified seedlings leave the mother body, the branches should be cut short, leaving only 15 to 20 cm long, and planted immediately to keep them moist and prevent water loss.

3. Root tiller propagation: There are two methods for root tiller propagation. One is to dig root tillers around existing plants and obtain seedlings. The second is to propagate in special female parent gardens. Mother plants prepared for propagation should be sown in the spring to promote the formation of root tillers. During the growth period, ensure sufficient supply of fertilizer and water, and prune properly to prevent the root tillers from being too dense. This not only ensures good root tiller development and growth, but also facilitates seedling digging in the fall.

4. Layering propagation

① Horizontal layering: It can be carried out in autumn or spring, but spring is the most suitable. Pull the vigorously growing annual branches horizontally and spread them on the ground to secure them without compressing the soil. Carefully protect the leaf buds to allow them to germinate. In this way, almost all buds can grow into new ones on the horizontal plane. When the new branches grow to 10-15 cm, wrap 2-3 turns of soft iron wire horizontally around each node of the annual branch (that is, the base of each new branch) to promote the formation of new roots. Then cover the new plant with soil up to two-thirds of its height, and then cover the new plant with soil 1 or 2 more times according to the growth height of the new plant. After the leaves fall in autumn, cut each section to form a seedling with vertical new stems and a root system at the base.

② Bow layering: Bow layering is divided into hard branch layering and twig layering. Hard branch layering is carried out in early spring. Dig a 15-20 cm deep trench around the bushes. Sprinkle decomposed farmyard manure mixed with soil into the trench to keep the trench deep at 10-15 cm. The distance between the ditch and the base of the cluster should be such that the lower part of the branch can touch the bottom of the ditch when the branches are bent. Select well-developed annual branches and bend them toward the bottom of the ditch. Fix it, then press it with soil and fill the trench levelly and solidify it. In this way, the branch buds exposed on the ground sprout and grow, and the parts pressed into the soil take root. In order to promote good rooting of the branches, you can also girdle the branches pressed at the bottom of the ditch with a width of 1 to 2 mm, remove the bast, or make a few cuts horizontally.

Young branch layering can be carried out in early or mid-June, when the basal branches of the current year grow to 60 to 80 cm. The method is the same as hard branch layering.

Hazelnut planting and management

1. Planting density: If you want hazelnut trees to realize the desire for high yields, then the planting density of hazelnut trees should be reasonable. The reasonable selection of hazelnut tree planting density is closely related to many factors, such as species, varieties, rootstocks, cultivation techniques, tree shape, topography, soil, climatic conditions, etc. Therefore, many factors must be considered when choosing the planting density of hazelnut trees, so that hazelnut trees can grow robustly.

2. Planting density: In places with fertile soil and flat terrain, the planting distance of hazelnut trees should be larger. In mountainous hazelnut orchards with large slopes and poor soil, the planting row spacing can be smaller. For varieties with strong growth and open crowns, the spacing between planting lines should be larger. For varieties with weak growth and upright and compact crowns, the spacing between hazelnut trees can be smaller. Depending on the purpose of cultivation, the cultivation density should also be different. In order to achieve high yield in the early stage, some plants can adopt planned dense planting, which can be thinned out later when the canopy of the garden is closed.

3. Cultivation depth: The root system of the planting depth should not be buried too deep or too shallow in the soil. It is required that the root neck should be 5 cm above the ground or slightly below the ground after planting. The appropriate burial depth above the root system is 6 to 10 centimeters. If the soil in the hole is loose, water should be properly watered before planting in order to prevent the soil from sinking too much after watering and making it difficult to control the planting depth. Or use your feet to lightly firm the soil in the hole.

4. Proper watering: A watering tree tray is built around the hazelnut tree, with a diameter of up to 1m, which facilitates irrigation and water storage. Immediately after planting, water should be irrigated, and it is required to irrigate thoroughly. After the water seeps in, seal the soil to protect moisture, and cover the tree tray with mulch to moisturize and increase temperature, promote the activity of the hazelnut tree's root system, and improve the survival rate.

5. Timely pruning: leave a main trunk, and then trim it according to its own growth and development characteristics to form a reasonable skeleton. There are three types of tree shapes generally used: cluster-shaped with few stems, single-stem shape, and cluster-shaped with many stems. It has a few stems and is clump-shaped, leaving 3-4 basal branches as main branches and extending obliquely in different directions. The main branches of the hazelnut tree bear side branches, and the side branches bear vegetative branches and fruiting mother branches. The overall shape is still a happy tree shape with a single trunk. This kind of tree shape should retain a trunk, select 3-4 evenly distributed main branches on the trunk, select side branches on the main branches, and have accessory branches and fruiting mothers on the side branches. branches, forming a short trunk.

6. Reasonable fertilization: Apply decomposed farmyard manure in early May and top-dress compound fertilizer in mid-July. In the second year of planting, top dressing can be applied around the outside of the hazelnut crown, but do not topdress too deeply.

7. The trunk will be fixed after planting: The hazelnut tree will have a fixed trunk after planting, which can be divided into single trunk shape and cluster shape. Plots with good soil, fertilizer and water conditions should be planted in a single-stem tree shape with a fixed trunk height of 60 to 70 centimeters. On the contrary, a clustered tree shape should be planted with a fixed trunk height of 30 to 40 centimeters. For the seedlings planted that year, water and fertilizer management must be strengthened to ensure that they grow robustly, germinate a certain number of branches, and have a good degree of lignification to prevent the hazelnut trees from growing excessively. After the leaves fall in autumn, soil should be cultivated to prevent cold. The soil should be as high as 1/2 of the plant. Remove the cold-proof soil in the following spring. Generally, there is no need to cultivate soil to prevent cold from the second year onwards. Hazelnut planting and harvesting skills

Hazel tree gardening

Hazelnut flowers are monoecious, that is, unisexual flowers, with flowers first and leaves later. The male flowers are catkins, which are borne between the leaf axils of the middle and upper parts of new leaves. The female flowers are flower heads, which are borne in the middle and upper parts of annual branches or the tops of short branches and clusters. They are pollinated by wind. Therefore, when building a hazel tree garden, varieties with the same or similar flowering period should be used as pollinator trees. Generally, three varieties are suitable for the same garden, with a ratio of 5 to 6:1.

Temperature

Different types of hazelnuts have different temperature requirements. European hazelnut likes a warm and humid climate. The suitable average temperature is 13~15℃, the absolute minimum is -10℃, and the extreme high temperature is 38℃. Ping'an hybrids are more cold-resistant than European hazelnuts and are suitable for cultivation in areas with average annual temperatures of 7.5 to 13°C and the lowest temperature reaching -30°C.

Light

Hazelnut is a light-loving plant and generally requires more than 2100 hours of sunshine per year. Otherwise, there will be few flower buds and low yield.

Soil

Hazel trees like to grow on fertile, sandy loam with good ventilation. In particular, Ping-European hybrids have high soil requirements, such as dry sandy soil, heavy clay soil, and swamps. Hazel orchards are not suitable for establishment in salty land, salty land or low-lying land. Pingu hybrids require a soil pH of 6.5 to 7.5, while Eucalyptus requires a soil pH of 5.5 to 7.

Cultivation

Hazelnut branches are easy to take root, and adventitious buds are easy to sprout root tillers. Therefore, seedlings are usually grown through layering or grafting propagation. The strong sprouting branches of the annual are used for layering in early spring, and the young branches of the current year are used as materials for layering in June. For grafting seedlings, flat hazel seedlings are often used as rootstocks.