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The origin of Manchu-Han banquet
The origin of Manchu-Han banquet ※

"Man-Han Banquet" is an official banquet, which began in the Qing Dynasty, but there is no official history, only some notes, named "Man-Han Banquet" and "Man-Han Banquet". At first, I hosted a banquet in officialdom, and later I hosted a Chinese banquet, which was called "overturning Taiwan", because there were Manchu and Han people among the guests to adapt to different eating habits. As a result, chefs who make full seats and Chinese seats compete with each other and learn from each other's strengths in order to make the dining table more exquisite. Later, people combined the two dishes into one, so they named it "Man-Han Banquet".

"Man-Han Banquet" has a huge scale, rich dishes, complicated production procedures and exquisite craftsmanship. This table is rich in barbecue essence, such as swallow, abalone, sea cucumber, shark's fin and other advanced seats; Including oil, spicy, crisp, raw, raw and hairy. Give play to more than twenty kinds of knife techniques such as vertical, floating, cutting and cutting; Set cooking techniques such as steaming, frying, burning, stewing, roasting and boiling; It is supplemented by more than ten mosaic methods, such as bridge shape, fan shape, shuttle back, downwind, tile and wall stack. The inner container is a set of tableware with complete specifications and different shapes, such as bowls, lamps, plates and saucers, which can be described as a masterpiece of cooking skills. Although the luxurious and even extravagant "Man-Han Banquet" should not be copied, its cooking and reception skills can be used for reference.

In the Qing Dynasty, whenever there was a national festive ceremony, when an imperial envoy visited or the governor visited, the "Man-Han Banquet" was used, so the "Man-Han Banquet" spread in various provinces. The content of the banquet menu varies with the products, flavors and production methods of different places, but it is consistent that all places choose the most top-grade dishes. The sumptuous "Man-Han Banquet" has 108 kinds of dishes (more than 200 kinds) and dozens of second-class seats.

As the "Man-Han Banquet" is the first grand and sumptuous banquet, its specifications and etiquette are particularly particular. When guests arrive, they will play beautiful music to welcome them, and then they will be regarded as "coming to the hall". When all the guests arrive, the host and guests will ask the guests to "change clothes" or put on casual clothes to sit at the table. The order of seats and tables, and the order of attendance are all in accordance with the position of returning pearls with hats. After the waiters are ready to sit down separately, the functional adults will signal to the county officials sitting next to them to toast and serve at any time. From sitting and eating "sugar bowl" to "desktop" in front of "eight major dishes"; When eating the "whole silk yam" dish in the "eight bowls", offer "refreshments"; When the "eight major dishes" reached the sixth course, it reached the "midpoint" again; After the "eight major dishes" are served together, they are served on the "seats" (Tongzhou soft cakes and sesame cakes are not served). After eating, the "desktop" was changed again. The county officials sitting at the next table went to each table in turn to invite the adults to "sit on the table", lifted the desktop out and put it back on the desktop. State and county officials ask adults to "sit tight" in turn (the so-called "promotion" and "getting a position" are auspicious words for "promotion" and "getting an official" in the Qing palace). After sitting down, at the same time of "barbecue", serve "Tongzhou soft cake" and "sesame sesame sesame cake"; After eating snacks and changing tables, the next official will still ask the adults to "upgrade" and "give up their seats" until the table is over.

During the whole banquet, the "table top" should be changed three times, and three sets of bowls, lamps and furniture should be used. The tableware used on the dining table is all famous porcelain, and the shape and specifications are also very elegant. Large pieces of porcelain must be made into chicken, duck, fish and other shapes, also known as "boats". Chicken boat, fish boat, sweet soup, etc. Known as chicken boat and fish boat, it is made of tin and has two layers. The inner layer is filled with soup and the outer layer is filled with boiling water to keep the temperature of the soup.

In the last years of Chengfeng in Qing Dynasty (A.D. 186 1), Manchu Guan Zhengxing founded the "Zhengxingguo" banquet hall in Huamian Street, Chengdu. Guan himself is good at cooking and inheriting the ancient system. There are several reputable Manchu chefs and several "Manchu banquets", so Zheng Xingguo is also quite famous in Sichuan. According to Fu Chongyi's Annals of Chengdu in Qing Dynasty, "Zheng Xingguo is the only person who pays attention to the surface at the banquet", because its owner has always collected many ancient artifacts, so he takes good care of it in officialdom. Its porcelain plates and bowls are antique and mottled, the dishes are exquisite and the soup tastes very good. The so-called ostentation and extravagance is also high. "In the 22nd year of Guangxu (A.D. 1897), 13-year-old Chengdu native Blu-ray learned the craft of" Zhengxing Pot "and studied under Gui Chengmen, a famous Manchu chef. At that time, the imperial examination system was still prevalent. At the end of the exam, the examiners will give prizes, and local officials will hold a feast to reward the examiners for their efforts in selecting world wizards. In Chengdu, the "Man-Han Banquet" invited state and county officials and entrusted the "Zhengxing Garden" to organize. On the eve of the Revolution of 1911, the Qing government was on the verge of collapse and Zhengxing Garden was closed. During this period, Mr. Lan Guangjian held "Man-Han Banquet" for examiners three times.

The menu of "Man-Han Banquet" attached to this book is the founder of Chengdu "Rong Paradise", the former Blu-ray teacher of the Department of Nutrition and Health Care of Sichuan Medical College and his immediate disciples Kong Daosheng and Zhang Songyun. According to Chengdu's situation and Sichuan-style practices, they have carefully considered and repeatedly discriminated each dish, and coordinated from the aspects of color, taste, shape and arrangement to avoid similarities. For example, in the "eight major cuisines", clear soup is used for anchovies, braised shark's fin, and grandma is used for mushroom chicken; Use different types of snacks, such as hot noodles (such as Tongzhou soft cakes) and crispy noodles (such as sesame cakes). Collocation design in cold dishes, etc. After careful comparison and consideration, and then supplemented and modified, the name of the unified material was determined.

Man Han Quanxi Cai Dan

Hand dish: melon and apricot dish

Four cold dishes: Xuanwei ham, reed, yellow rice bamboo shoots, frozen mutton and chicken slices.

Braised pigeon breast sauce and bean paste stuffed with bucket duck slices and bad crab.

Four Dynasties pendulum: two plates of Jinchuan Sydney and two plates of precious bergamot.

Four candied fruits: golden jujube inlaid with Sydney slices, honey birthday girl and orange inlaid with fresh branches.

Cherry is embedded in Dongting loquat with honey juice, and olive is brought to Baizhen Maoguanggan with Ann juice.

Four honey bowls: rock sugar, tremella, Xiang Lian soup, Guangzhou litchi soup and Tian chicken soup.

Four hot dishes: golden rooster, Tahouhua, belly fried dumpling, fish fillet and fried frog leg.

Eight bowls: mustard, bamboo shoots, milk soup, abalone, duck loin, thorn butterfly and sea cucumber.

Canned chicken ears, crab roe, ginkgo, emerald shrimp, Jinshan medicine.

Badalai: Clear soup, pigeon eggs, Swallow dish, shark's fin and black-bone chicken white.

Braised duck and roasted Yangzhou big fish in brown sauce.

Mushroom chicken, glass squid, chessboard, fish belly, ham, cabbage

Sihong: roast suckling pig, roast ham, grilled fish and roast duck.

Four Whites: Fojian Chicken Harba Collar Meat

Arrival hall: milk roll with iced juice and apricot soup.

Mid-point: Wurenci oil cake shrimp noodle soup Lama glutinous rice cake

Summer sleeping mat: mustard steamed dumplings sesame seed cake Tongzhou soft cake Voss oil cake fresh tequila cake

Refreshments: crystal buns, rose chess cake and eight almond teas.

Food match: shredded ham, pheasant, fried duck, shredded mushrooms, snow red bean sprouts and Chinese cabbage.

Rice: broad beans, fragrant Gu Mi and vegetable porridge.

Sweet side dishes: shrimp and pickled melons are placed on the plate (missing)

Note: The names of the above dishes are not absolute. They can change according to the seasons. For example, if there are no winter bamboo shoots in late spring, bamboo shoots can be used instead, but the number of samples is fixed.