Clothing characteristics in song dynasty
There are three kinds of costumes in the Song Dynasty: one is the "official dress" used by queens, concubines and maids at all levels, and the other is the "dress" used by ordinary people for good or ill luck; A daily uniform.
Most of the official uniforms in the Song Dynasty were inherited from the early Tang Dynasty. In the early years of the Northern Song Dynasty, because the costumes were not customized and influenced by foreign countries, there appeared "felt hat" and "hook (summer+earth)" (socks+boast) qidan clothes, which were called strange clothes. The official uniforms of the Song Dynasty were generally luxurious, and the people's clothes were also very particular. In the third year of Song Taizu (during the reign of Gande), it was stipulated that the dress color of women in the palace changed with doctors, and it was also stipulated that ordinary people should not adopt five-color Hanfu. During the seven years of Injong, Yingzong, Zongshen and Zhenghe, the government advocated improving clothes and becoming more luxurious. The common people turned a deaf ear to these regulations, and Lu Ling Jinxiu took them at will. Some noble boudoirs in Beijing have also designed a variety of dressing styles in an ingenious way, pursuing novelty and chic. Not only the selection of materials is exquisite, but also the dressing is very distinctive. Some people comb their hair generously, some people tie their shoulders, some people skillfully hold up golden phoenix on their foreheads, and the poor also decorate their hair with paper-cuts, incense their bodies and embroider their feet.
The clothes of the queen and his wife
Empress costume exhibition in song dynasty. This is the most expensive dress for the Empress of Song Dynasty, and it is rarely worn at ordinary times. Only when it was canonized by the emperor or used in sacrificial ceremonies. Wear this kind of clothing, you must wear a rockhopper on your head, with a blue single yarn inside, and the waist is dark blue, covering your knees. In addition, white jade double ornaments and jade belt rings are hung, and green socks are worn under them.
Yongle Palace mural is a wonderful work in the ancient mural art in China. Although its theme is mainly religious stories, most of the characters' costumes are rooted in life. This picture is based on the mural "Tiannv" in Sanqing Hall of Yongle Palace. In real life, it is often worn by concubines and ladies. Women's dresses in the Song Dynasty, such as long sleeves, long skirts and silk, were all left over from the late Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties. It was still popular in the Northern Song Dynasty and was mostly worn by aristocratic women. They are a kind of clothing. Ordinary women can't wear it. This kind of clothing must be accompanied by gorgeous and exquisite jewelry, including hair ornaments, face ornaments, ear ornaments, neck ornaments and chest ornaments.
Ping min Bai xing clothing
? Hey? 、? Coat? Necessary clothes for ordinary people to wear every day. The poet Lu You once wrote? Farmers only wear skirts, suitable for cold and summer? . There are cotton-padded jackets. ? Short brown? This is short and thick clothes for the poor. Because the narrow sleeves of this kind of clothes are relatively small, they are called sleeves (that is, sleeves). ? Shirt? For men in the Song Dynasty, what was it called to wear a wide shirt outside? Cool shirt? . What's the name of this white shirt? White shirt? . What's the name of the purple shirt? Purple shirt? . Are there any records of scholar-bureaucrat shirts? The purple shirt is not a public service, and so is the extra shirt? . What about the purple shirt? Narrow shirt? . In The Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival, a woman riding a donkey and wearing a curtain hat also wears a "cool shirt". Because cool shirts are mostly lavender, it was stipulated in Kao Zongsong that cool shirts were used as mourning clothes. Besides, sweater and sweater? Shirt is named after wool and pueraria raw materials. "
? Shirt? , "Song history? The record of Yu Fu Zhi? The shirt is made of white fine cloth, with round neck and big sleeves, and a horizontal belt under it. There is a product at the waist, which is worn by Jinshi, Yuanzisheng and Zhou Xian. . This is a man's robe with ruffles and reeds.
? Dress? This is an ancient system, which follows up and down. It is the style of coronation dress, court dress or private house dress. There was also a way to wear a coat under a petticoat in the Song Dynasty. Men also wear long black-rimmed coats and Huang Shang. Yan doesn't wear a belt when he lives, but wears a big belt when he treats guests.
? Straight man? This is a wide robe. Because there is no hem at the back but a middle seam? Straight man? . ? Crane? Recorded? Have big sleeves, such as cranes in China, which are wide and long to mop the floor? . It is a kind of fur made of crane hair and other bird hair, which is very expensive.
In addition, men's clothing in the Song Dynasty also includes cloth shirts and Luo shirts. It is called an undershirt for internal use, and it has the form of cross collar and jaw collar. The materials used are very elegant, and satin, yarn and yarn are mostly used. Colors are white, blue, soap (black), apricot yellow, dark brown and so on. This coat is made of cloth, silk, silk, brocade, silk and leather. Coat colors are blue, red, bordeaux, dark green, goose yellow and so on. The quality of aristocratic trousers is also very particular, mainly composed of yarn, yarn, silk, crepe and twill, with plain, jacquard and small jacquard patterns, mainly camel yellow and tan. The trousers worn by civilians at work are of poor quality.
Everyday wear
In the Song Dynasty, women used long sleeves tops, long skirts and robes as uniforms.
Men's wear in Song Dynasty
Coronation clothes: The Song Dynasty began to reduce the types of coronation clothes, and non-coronation clothes were often worn in ceremonies.
Huangfu: In the Song Dynasty, special decoration was added under the neck, which was called "square-heart curved collar".
Public office: In Song Dynasty, official office was official service.
Government official's dress
Official clothes, also known as "provincial clothes", are mainly in the form of large sleeves with curved collars and belts around the waist. Another narrow sleeve style is also official. This kind of clothing is graded by color. For example, blue is used for Q9 officials and above; Seven grade officials and above use green; Cinnabar is used for five officials or above; Purple is used for third-class officials and above. During the Song and Yuan Dynasties, the color changed slightly, and purple was used for more than four products. More than six products are scarlet; Use green for grade nine or above. According to the regulations at that time, people wearing purple (scarlet) clothes should be equipped with fish bags decorated with gold and silver to clearly distinguish between high and low. Seasonal clothes are clothes for officials and ministers according to the season. Three years later, Song gave a wider range of gifts, from prime ministers to guards. The varieties given are robes, coats, shirts, robes and trousers. Most of the clothes given are embroidered with birds and animals.
Everyday wear
In the Song Dynasty, in addition to men's official uniforms, South Korea usually had distinctive uniforms. The uniform here refers to "Yanju clothing" (that is, clothes taken in the living room), so it is also called "private service". There is not much difference between Song officials and ordinary people in the form of Yanju clothing. Only there are obvious rules and restrictions on the use of colors. Since the Sui Dynasty, emperors have used bright yellow clothes, and officials and ministers are not allowed to use them indiscriminately. According to the literature, because the official uniforms given by the court with gold and silver fish bags are all made of purple and scarlet materials, ordinary low-level officials are not allowed to use them indiscriminately and can only wear black and white. There are the following kinds of uniforms in the Song Dynasty: "robe" has two kinds: wide sleeves, narrow sleeves and narrow body: those with official positions wear brocade robes and those without official positions wear white cloth robes.
Civilian uniform
? Hey? 、? Coat? Necessary clothes for ordinary people to wear every day. The poet Lu You once wrote? Farmers only wear skirts, suitable for cold and summer? . There are cotton-padded jackets. ? Short brown? This is short and thick clothes for the poor. Because the narrow sleeves of this kind of clothes are relatively small, they are called sleeves (that is, sleeves). ? Shirt? For men in the Song Dynasty, what was it called to wear a wide shirt outside? Cool shirt? . What's the name of this white shirt? White shirt? . What's the name of the purple shirt? Purple shirt? . Are there any records of scholar-bureaucrat shirts? Purple shirts are not official clothes, and so are extra shirts? . What about the purple shirt? Narrow shirt? . In The Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival, a woman riding a donkey and wearing a curtain hat also wears a "cool shirt". Because cool shirts are mostly lavender, it was stipulated in Kao Zongsong that cool shirts were used as mourning clothes. Besides, sweater and sweater? Shirt is named after wool and pueraria raw materials. "
? Shirt? , "Song history? The record of Yu Fu Zhi? The shirt is made of white fine cloth, with round neck and big sleeves, and a horizontal belt under it. There is a product at the waist, which is worn by Jinshi, Yuanzisheng and Zhou Xian. . This is a man's robe with ruffles and reeds.
? Dress? It is an ancient system that follows the coat and clothes. It is the style of coronation dress, court dress or private house dress. There was also a way to wear a coat under a petticoat in the Song Dynasty. Men also wear long black-rimmed coats and Huang Shang. Yan doesn't wear a belt when he lives, but wears a big belt when he treats guests.
? Straight man? This is a wide robe. Because there is no hem at the back but a middle seam? Straight man? . ? Crane? Recorded? Have big sleeves, such as cranes in China, which are wide and long to mop the floor? . It is a kind of fur made of crane hair and other bird hair, which is very expensive.
In addition, men's clothing in the Song Dynasty also includes cloth shirts and Luo shirts. It is called an undershirt for internal use, and it has the form of cross collar and jaw collar. The materials used are very elegant, and satin, yarn and yarn are mostly used. Colors are white, blue, soap (black), apricot yellow, dark brown and so on. This coat is made of cloth, silk, silk, brocade, silk and leather. Coat colors are blue, red, bordeaux, dark green, goose yellow and so on. The quality of aristocratic trousers is also very particular, with yarn, yarn, silk, crepe and twill as the main colors, with plain patterns, large jacquard patterns and small jacquard patterns, with camel yellow and tan as the main colors. The trousers worn by civilians at work are of poor quality.
Rujia clothing
1975, a tomb of Confucian scholars in the Song Dynasty was unearthed in Jintan, Jiangsu Province. The tomb owner is Shu Ren's son, and his official position is below Bapin. . Due to the low status of the undertaker, the unearthed cultural relics are of poor quality and numerous. From ancient times to the present, men and women are naturally different in their clothing reserves before their death, but they are even more obviously different after their death. This Confucian scholar's funerary objects have this masculine characteristic. Among the funerary objects are single unlined upper garment, double unlined upper garment, silk robe, short coat and bottomless? Pants, etc. , are relatively simple. Most clothes are in the style of stand collar, stand collar and round neck.
Women's Clothing in Song Dynasty
Song clothes inherited the legacy of Tang clothes, and women's clothes are still mainly shirts, dresses, coats, backs, skirts, robes, coats and deep clothes, all of which are the clothes of a married woman. From 65438 to 0975, a tomb was unearthed in Fucang Mountain, Fujian Province, from which we can browse the whole picture of women's clothing in Song Dynasty. This is a Song tomb with great research value. The owner of the grave was a young woman of 17 years old who died in childbirth. She was an aristocratic woman in the Southern Song Dynasty. The quantity and quality of funerary objects in the tombs are excellent, and the unearthed costumes and cosmetics are complete. The styles of long clothes, short clothes, single clothes, double clothes and cotton-padded clothes all have the style of Song Dynasty, and each one has different changes. Most of them are straight collar with double-breasted buttons, without belts and buttons, and the outer edge of the neck overlaps with the collar. All clothes are cut with sleeves. Some are limited by the width of cloth, so seams and welts are used to decorate the back or sleeves of clothes.
Single coats have styles of short front and long back, and sleeveless vests. Unearthed clothes are wrapped or embroidered with decorative patterns at the collar, sleeves, lapels, waist and hem, and decorated with peony, camellia, plum blossom and lily by bronzing, embroidery and painting.
There are also three kinds of pants in cultural relics, namely, single-clip pants with open crotch, silk cotton pants with open crotch and pants with full crotch and right side. Pants were used by ancient women. Because it was covered by skirts, the trousers at that time emphasized practicality. They are all sewn with plain silk and plain silk without lace decoration. The so-called crotch-free or open sheet is mainly designed for convenience of use. The general dimensions of these trousers are: the length of trousers is 2 feet 3 inches to 2 feet 7 inches; Waist circumference is two feet to two feet four inches; The width of the trousers mouth is seven inches to one foot, the waistband of the open-crotch trousers is decorated in the middle of the waist, and the double belt of the open-crotch trousers is decorated on the right side, and the length of the waistband is about one foot and eight inches.
In Song Dynasty, women wore short skirts with narrow sleeves and long skirts. Usually, double-breasted dresses are worn on it.
Women's skirts in Song Dynasty
The style of women's skirts in Song Dynasty is basically the same as that in Tang Dynasty. It's just that skirts are different. You can use your right hand or your left hand, which may be influenced by ethnic minorities such as Qidan and Jurchen. The decoration on the car body is not complicated. In addition to wearing silk, only a Yuhuan ornament is added to the ribbon worn in the middle of the waist. Its main function is to hold down the skirt, so that it will not dance with the wind when walking or moving, which will affect the appearance. What does the history book say? Yuhuan? This is decoration.
Song dynasty
Song Dynasty Song Dynasty women's usual clothing, including the clothes that aristocratic women usually wear, are mostly coats, jackets, shirts, scorpions, half-arms, etc. And skirts and pants. In the Song Dynasty, the style was double-breasted with narrow sleeves, and the skirt collar, cuffs and hem were inlaid with predestined friends. The skirt is always open, and the two sides are not connected by buttons or ropes, so that they can expose their underwear. About women's underwear, there are also characteristics of the times, except underwear? Wipe your chest? Besides, there's another one? Abdominal circumference? . Abdominal circumference is a kind of silk scarf around the waist and abdomen, which is complicated and simple. The color is yellow, so it's called? Yellow waist? .
Big sleeves in song dynasty
Song Dynasty Sleeves Song Dynasty sleeves were originally the official clothes of royal concubines. Because their sleeves are very wide, they are named big sleeves. Song Shi? "Jade Fu Zhi" records: Its uniform, queen and big sleeves. ? Later, it spread to the people and became the dress of aristocratic women. Zhu said: big sleeves, today's women's short shirts are one foot and two inches long and wide, knee-length and sleeves. ? Another note:? The concubines used their backs instead of big sleeves. ? It can be seen that women with lower status can't wear big sleeves, so they can only use suspenders instead. The style of big sleeves is double-breasted, wide sleeves, the length of clothes can mop the floor, and the collar and skirt are often inlaid with lace.