Four causes of Huaiyang cuisine
There are many interesting things in Huaiyang cuisine.
The formation of Huaiyang cuisine in Huai 'an is due to four factors, namely, it is located at the junction of north and south, at the throat of South-to-North Water Transfer Project; Economically, the imperial court has the privilege of allocating a large amount of silver into the river every year; There are wealthy salt merchants, river governors, water transport governors and a large number of bureaucrats in the consumer groups. In terms of driving force, Kangxi and Qianlong, two emperors, stopped in Huai 'an on their way to Jiangnan six times each. On the basis of these four factors, the pattern of Huaiyang cuisine was finally formed.
Speaking of the border between the north and the south, Li Yong, the governor of Beihai in the Tang Dynasty, called Huaiyin "a great defense against Huai and Chu, with rivers and seas connecting Tianjin". Japan sent 15 envoys to the Tang Dynasty, and 13 returned to China via the Huaihe River. Arab merchants settled in Wharf Town, while Silla people lived in Silla Square with Yang Shan and Lianshui people. Zhang, a writer and historian who was born in Huaiyin, recorded in Records of Wang Jiaying that the car factory and mule and horse factory that run the inn in the town are full of thoroughfares and endless traffic day and night. Every time you take the exam, you can take it everywhere from the south to the Bohai Sea outside the ridge. The bus turns north and south, and all meet here. Qin Xuanzhi, a modern scholar, also recorded in Huai Cheng that there are more than ten mule shops, including Jiang, Yang, Zhang, Jia and Jiang, with thousands of houses, all carved with beams and painted buildings, with high walls and up to ten steps. Jiangsu Sanyi Rome Store has seven halls arranged according to the Beidou constellation, which can receive thousands of guests at the same time. This year's exam, every family is full, and residents are scrambling to turn their rooms into temporary inns.
Speaking of economy, Li Yuerui, the minister of the Ministry of Industry in Guangxu period of Qing Dynasty, recorded in "Wild Riding in the Spring Ice Room" that the river chief allocated five or six million taels of silver for river repair every year, but less than one-tenth of them were used for river engineering, and nine-tenths of them did luxurious cooking, which was even more luxurious than that of the royal family. During the reign of Shunzhi in Qing Dynasty, historian Tan Qian came to Huai twice and lived here for more than a month. He wrote in "Journey to the North": "The Pujia River in Qingjiang River is 20 miles long, with a large number of expatriates, huge rooms and large scale."
Speaking of salt merchants, Huaibei salt merchants have both Shanxi merchants and Huizhou merchants. The tax revenue generated by Huai salt in Qing Dynasty accounted for a quarter of the national fiscal revenue, and the wealth of salt merchants can be imagined. According to Li's records during Daoguang period in Qing Dynasty, there were 65 public and private pavilions under the river, of which 32 and a half were built by salt merchants. At that time, there was a poem describing the life of salt merchants, saying that "jade and gold are all good, and there is no feast in spring and autumn." Cheng Jian, one of the main merchants of salt merchants, has a villa named "Dizhuang" near Xiao Lake in Chuzhou. Zhuangzi was designated as the palace of Emperor Qianlong when he went to the south of the Yangtze River. Cheng Jian often holds a group flower party in the village, and 24 matchmakers gather in the village for a song and dance banquet. Thousands of people watched the lake, which was once called the Fairy Club.
The emperor said that in the early March of the forty-fourth year of Kangxi (1705), Kangxi made his fifth southern tour to Wusha River, set up a seven-color pavilion and hosted a banquet for tens of thousands of people. According to statistics, during the hundred years since Qianlong went down to the south of the Yangtze River, the expenses of eating, drinking and entertainment in the governor's house of Nanhe River in Huaiyin consumed more than 300 million yuan and 200 taels of silver, which was staggering.
There are many interesting things in Huaiyang cuisine.
The following is the most interesting story in Huaiyang cuisine:
Thirty thousand people eat covered noodles together. According to Taiping Guangji, in the Northern Song Dynasty, longxing temple in Chuzhou was once a big theater, with as many as 30,000 people watching it every day. By dinner time, everyone wants a bowl of noodles. When the noodles are selected, the rich will pour the meat topping, and the poor will pour the vegetarian topping. One person has a sea bowl, and 30,000 people eat noodles while watching the drama. What a spectacular crowd, 30 thousand people, smoking noodles together!
Fried rice is called "Buddha Help". Fried rice first appeared in the ranks of "top soldiers" during Jiajing period of Ming Dynasty. Shen Kun, the champion of He Xia Town, Chuzhou, organized a team to defend his family against Japan, and was affectionately called "the champion soldier" by the people. Soldiers are all local villagers, and local people have the habit of eating porridge, but there is no guarantee that they have time to cook porridge in wartime, so fried rice appeared in the army. Fried rice is very temperature-conscious. Only the fried rice can't be cooked, and it can be turned into porridge when it enters the water. After the rise of fried rice, it quickly became children's favorite, so there were innovations in fried rice candy, fried rice balls and fried rice sticks, so that when guests came in, they made a bowl of fried rice candy tea, which became a way to entertain guests. If relatives come, rich people will put a pair of eggs and turtles in fried rice and sugar tea. Of course, if the flood season comes, every household will prepare fried rice. In the flood season, people will hide in roofs and dikes, and fried rice will become a lifesaver.
Sacrifice the sky and cook the stars on the lake. Celestial Chef Star is the deity that chefs sacrifice. Tianchuxing is Lao Zi's home chef. I used to go to Laozi Mountain near Huaihe River to practice alchemy. I brought a cook to cook for him. However, Lao Tzu's official position is low and he owes the chef a lot of salary, but the chef still serves Lao Tzu faithfully without complaint. One day, Lao Tzu became an immortal, so he appointed a chef and became a heavenly teacher. This story was once a household name among the chefs in Huai 'an, so everyone built an old gentleman's pavilion on the west bank of Shaohu Lake in Chuzhou. Every summer on July 19, chefs from two regions gather in Laojun Hall to celebrate the birthday of Chutian Star. This custom continued until 1939 Spring Festival. That year, the Japanese invaders bombed Huai 'an, and laojunmiao near Shaohu Lake was bombed. As a result, Chutian Star lost the worship of Huai 'an chefs.
Li Bai's poem praised braised chicken with wine. According to legend, Li Bai passed by Huaiyin and was fascinated by the scenery of Huaishui, but missed the market town with an inn. He had to come to a farmhouse. Knock on Chai Men, there is only one old mother at home. Following the principle that the visitor is the guest, the old mother immediately caught a rhubarb chicken, killed it and stewed it. Then take out your own wine to entertain strangers. Li Bai was moved by Huaiyin's simple folk customs. Lenovo saved Han Xin's floating mother and wrote a five-character poem: "A moth went to Huaiyin to stay, and was welcomed by the floating mother. Fighting wine to cook yellow chicken makes a meal feel sincere. Be a strong man of Chu, not a man from Lu and Zhu. Virtue must be rewarded, and shame is shame. " As a result, Huaiyang cuisine has a famous product "braised yellow chicken with wine".
Eat a clever wife with one chicken and nine chickens. Coincidentally, there is also a story about chicken dishes. In the Ming Dynasty, a poor scholar just married a new wife outside the east gate of Huaicheng. According to the local bride's custom of visiting the house, elder sister-in-law and younger sister came to see the bride one after another. Relatives will be entertained when they come, but the scholar is really poor and can't provide them with food. Fortunately, the new wife is a clever wife. I saw her wash her hands and go to the kitchen to kill a chicken. After a while, the plate was served. She cooked, stewed, fried, fried, steamed, fried, slipped, stewed and fried. She actually cooked nine dishes with a chicken. Since then, this clever wife's "one chicken and nine meals" has also become a famous dish of Huaiyang cuisine.
International hotels and huaiyang cuisine. For half a century, Shanghai International Hotel has been known as "the tallest building in the Far East". This hotel, which enjoys a good reputation in China and even the world, was built by three financial giants born in Huai 'an. At the beginning of the 20th century, the mainland banks born in Tan, Zhu Yusheng and Huai 'an joined hands with Central South Bank to form a "four-bank savings association" to counter the "four-bank south" of Zhejiang chaebol. 1930, they jointly bought a piece of land at the price of 452,000 silver, which is located on Park Road (now huanghe road) opposite the Happy Valley Guild Hall in the center of Shanghai. After four years of construction, Shanghai International Hotel has been built. In order to become an instant hit in Shanghai, they brought Huaiyin's old Huaiyang cuisine, such as Yuhuatai, Laobanzhai and Xinbanzhai, to Shanghai and Huaiyang cuisine to Shanghai International Hotel. Later, Huaiyang cuisine was brought to Beijing, Tianjin, Shanghai, Chongqing and other cities, which played a great role in promoting Huaiyang cuisine.
Poetry praise from famous buildings in recent years
I have seen books in famous restaurants in the Tang Dynasty. At the south gate of Chuzhou, there is a famous restaurant. That's the restaurant where the secretariat entertains new Jinshi. Literati and literati chanted with poems, and kept its beauty all the time in order to jump the dragon gate. One of its most thrilling poems belongs to Bian Weibao's masterpiece "The Banquet Flower Building and the Charm of Zhao Weinan" in the last years of the apocalypse: "Spring crosses the building, the stream is swaying, and the guests are still feasting. Wan Li is floating in the sea, and Sanzhoulong protects Huai Tian. "
In the Northern Song Dynasty, there was a family building. Ji Xu, a great dutiful son and gifted scholar in the Northern Song Dynasty, vividly described the Confucian atmosphere of the landlord with the opening words of "Yang Shan is like a guest, and Confucianism is the wine".
Sadula, a poet of the Yuan Dynasty, passed by Huai 'an, and a friend greeted him at Bashanwang Restaurant. He wrote four poems specially for Huai 'an, saying, "Wang dominates Huai 'an in Bashan." His poem says, "Snow is full of wine flags and cold rivers, and Jiangnan is untitled. "Plum blossoms are carried on the boat, which draws the spring breeze across the river." Overnight, the small building in Bashan became a famous building.
From the mid-Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China, there were many famous shops in Huaiyin.
Yuhuchun Hotel, located in Dongchang Street, Qinghe District, was founded in the late Qing Dynasty.
Shengli Hotel, located in Dongjie Street, was founded in 34 years of the Republic of China and was once the guest house of the Jiangsu-Anhui border government.
Xinbanzhai Hotel, located in Huaihai South Road, was founded in Xuantong Year 2 (19 10). Our chefs include Zhang Wenxian and Sun Baoren, famous chefs from Huaiyin in in the 1920s.
Zhenfengyuan Hotel, located in the urban area of Huai 'an, opened in the 10th year of Tongzhi in Qing Dynasty (187 1), dealing in various Huaiyang dishes such as wonton, pot stickers and sugar porridge. Zhenfengyuan fried rice wonton is well known.
Wenlou Hotel, built in the eighth year of Qing Daoguang (1828), is located under the ancient town river, separated from the small lake Quxiang Building by water. Scholars often meet here, hence the name "Wenlou". Of course, there is also a restaurant called Wu Lou. Jianhu Caotang, Green Aige, Xiao Cangzhou, Penglai Xianting, Yule Building, Banquet Building and Qingxi Pavilion are also restaurants with elegant names.
The chef is the best in the world.
Of course, famous shops have famous chefs, who were the first to introduce Zhang Kai in Xianfeng period of Qing Dynasty. He is a chef in the banquet hall under the river. He thought that "there is a devil in heaven and there is a 108 dish", so he created a long fish mat with 108 dish. You have to eat 108 dishes in three days, with eight bowls, eight small bowls, sixteen plates and four snacks for each feast, totaling 36 kinds. There are feasts and different dishes every day for three consecutive days; A long fish pad includes all cooking techniques such as roasting, stewing, frying, frying, frying, frying, stewing, boiling, frying, stewing and steaming, which is dizzying and delicious. It's really a classic of China cooking.
The most famous chefs in the 1920s were Zhang Wenxian and Sun Baoren. They were ordered to attend the preparations for the first banquet of People's Republic of China (PRC). Founding ceremony's state banquet used Huaiyang cuisine from Premier Zhou Enlai's hometown. Therefore, Zhang Wenxian and Sun Baoren were chosen and went to Beijing. When they arrived in Beijing, they set up a temporary kitchen of 1.20 square meters in Beijing Hotel and started cooking. The first course is Huai 'an soft-shelled long fish. So soft-skinned long fish became the first dish in Huaiyang. 1975, President Liu Shaoqi visited Sanhemen, and they also participated in the reception work, which was well received by the country. Now both of them are dead.
Now Huai 'an and Huaiyang cuisine chefs are also talented. Generations of Huaiyang cuisine chefs take it as their responsibility to promote Huaiyang cuisine, and finally make Huaiyang cuisine a kind of delicious food. /kloc-Since the second half of the 9th century, Huaiyang cuisine has created more than 400 kinds of classic dishes, including 1300 kinds of famous dishes with local flavor, with whole eel as the leader and whole sheep and fish as the wings. The chefs of Huaiyang cuisine have explained a truth with their unremitting efforts: the people, only the people, are the driving force to create history.
(Wei Hua compiled according to the materials of China Huaiyang Cuisine Culture Museum)
Braised mandarin fish
Braised eel and pork
Oolong chicken wings
Brother Rico
Roasted eel with onion
One chicken and nine meals.
Qingjiang emerald steamed dumplings
Huaian Chang fish feast
Wenlou baozi stuffed with juicy pork
Huai San jiao chi