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Travel notes of Xuancheng

travels of Xuancheng

? After the opening of the Shanghe-Hangzhou high-speed railway, there is a direct high-speed railway from the northwest to Xuancheng, which is much more convenient without reversing and transferring. So, I took advantage of the Mid-Autumn Festival holiday to visit Xuancheng.

? I only knew before that Xuancheng's "Xuan" was the "Xuan" of Xuan paper. This is the hometown of Xuan paper. Not only that, Xuan pen and Hui ink were all produced here, and Shexian, the origin of Sheyan, is also very close. Xuancheng is the famous hometown of Four Treasures of the Study. What I didn't expect was that it was still the hometown of Chinese alligators.

Xuancheng high-speed railway station is not far from the city center. It only costs seven yuan to take a taxi to the most prosperous national shopping plaza. The first priority, of course, is to taste the local food first, follow the public comments, find a well-rated Anhui Cuisine Hall, and order some local dishes such as Huangshan Stinky Fish, Jixi Yipin Pot, Jingchuan Braised Noodles, etc. It is said that Yipin Pot is the favorite of Jixi native Hu Shi, and Dr. Hu is a must-have dish for guests. After tasting it, I feel that the sauce in Xuancheng is heavy and salty, which is completely different from the sweetness of Jiangnan cuisine in my impression, and it is very close to the taste of mandarin fish and hairy tofu.

? It takes about 2 minutes' walk from Guogou Square to Fushan Square. The "Xie Tiao Building" was built on Futou Mountain. When Xie Tiao of Nanqi was the prefect of Xuancheng, this building was built near Fuya, named "Gaozhai". Because it is located in the north of the county, it is also called "North Building" and "Xiegong Building". This building was destroyed by war several times. Xie Tiao is known as "Xie Xuancheng" in the world. Xie Tiao has a special contribution and position in the history of China's poetry. He succeeded the Han Dynasty in opening the Tang Dynasty. Xie Tiao was born into a noble family. In the troubled times when the imperial power changed frequently, he was doomed to escape the bitter political struggle. He saw many relatives become victims of political struggle since childhood, and he was afraid and failed to protect himself. Finally, he died in prison because he was falsely led into a rebellion case. Xie Tiao is known as Xie Xuancheng, not only because he was the satrap of Xuancheng, but also because he left Xuancheng to help him stay away from blood shed in the court temporarily, and realized the ideal of "being an official" of "Lingfenghan" and "Zishanquan". Xie Tiao traveled all over the mountains and rivers in Xuancheng, and the beautiful scenery inspired his creative inspiration. In Xuancheng, he pushed China's landscape poetry creation to the peak. These famous sentences were all completed in Xuancheng, such as "Looking at the cold city, the peaceful Chu is just pale", "Looking at Xuancheng County", "Knowing the boat in the sky, distinguishing the river trees in the clouds" and "From Xuancheng County, Xinlinpu to Banqiao". Literati and celebrities of past dynasties have come here to look back on the past in Xie Tiao Tower, and there are countless poems, especially Li Bai's poems, which make Xie Tiao Tower a famous cultural building and a symbol of China's traditional poetry and literature.

? Wandering upstairs in Xie Tiao, the intermittent light rain sometimes breaks, the thick clouds roll overhead, and the rain covers the fog barrier, which makes people have the daydream of crossing from time to time. Such a situation is suitable for thinking about the past. Back then, the same sky and clouds, the same long wind in my arms, is also in this building, Li Bai raised his glass and sang "since yesterday had to throw me and bolt; Today has hurt my heart even more's farewell school book Shu Yun in Xuancheng Xie Tiao Tower, Li Bai often boarded Xie Tiao Tower, and often missed Xie Tiao. "The river is picturesque, and the mountains look at the clear sky at night ... Who goes to the north building, the breeze is in the air," "Autumn boarding Xuancheng Xie Tiao North Building", "The solution to Chengjiang is as quiet as practice, which makes people remember Xie Xuanhui for a long time" and so on. Wang Shizhen said that he: "The violet is talented. Except that they have the same poetic ideas and the same feelings for mountains and rivers, their frustration in the court also caused them to have the same frequency.

? Thinking of Li Bai, I can't wait to visit Jingting Mountain. "Under my Jingting, I have to follow Xie Gong's work. Hundreds of years apart, the wind period is like yesterday "(Li Bai's" You Jingting Send Cui Shi Yu ")," When you visit Jingting, you listen to the wind and sleep. Or make a stream on the moon, and the empty boat will return to the edge "(Li Bai's" Give Xuancheng Yuwen the satrap and present Cui Shi Yu ")," Jiangshan also needs great people's help ",and Xie Tiao, Li Bai and others sought after it, which made Jingting Mountain famous and became a poem mountain in the south of the Yangtze River with a well-known poem name.

? The traffic of Jingting Mountain is very convenient. It is only five or six kilometers away from Guogou Square, and many buses can reach it. When you get off the bus, you can see the landmark building of Jingting Mountain: Shishan Paifang Group. The archway is engraved with the inscription of Chu Tunan and the poems of Li Bai and Chen Yi chanting Jingting Mountain. After taking photos, you can continue to walk along the mountain landscape belt, and there is more than one kilometer from the archway to the foot of the mountain. On both sides of the road, it is surrounded by tea fields and green. On the way, there is the ruins of the Twin Towers of Guangjiao Temple. The Twin Towers are real monuments, and it is said that they are the only existing Twin Towers in the Song Dynasty in China. The Guangjiao Temple on the left of the foothills is a famous temple built in the Tang Dynasty, which was later destroyed by the war of Japanese aggression against China. The rebuilt Guangjiao Temple in 26 is magnificent, and the large-scale three-dimensional statue is not available in other temples, so it is worth seeing. On the right is Hongyuan Temple. "Hongyuan" is the great wish to carry forward Buddhism and save all sentient beings. Hongyuan Temple is high in terrain and magnificent in bearing. The two temples belong to two important schools. Guangjiao Temple is the Dojo of Zen Buddhism, and Hongyuan Temple is the Dojo of Pure Land Sect. The two temples are adjacent to a lake, namely Qinglianchi and Taibai Lake. The mountains are surrounded by water, and the haze is changing. The cloud trees cover the eaves of the temples, and they have not yet climbed the mountain. They have already enjoyed Xiao Su's pale and dusty colors, such as in Traveling in a pictorial world.

? After entering the gate of the scenic spot and crossing Jingting Square, the official mountaineering began. Jingting Mountain belongs to the branch of Huangshan Mountain, but unlike the wonder of Huangshan Mountain, Jingting Mountain is not high and dangerous, but presents a gentle, delicate and peaceful state. The forest coverage rate of Jingting Mountain reaches 98%, and the ecology is good, the negative oxygen ion content is high, so it is very comfortable to walk in it, and it is a blessed place for health preservation. There are steps and trails in mountaineering. No matter which way you take, you will miss the other half of the beautiful scenery. After passing several scenic spots, such as Guzhao Pavilion, Xiangsi Spring, Chen Yi Statue and Shitao Memorial Hall, you will arrive at the "Taibai Alone Building" at the waist of Nanshan Mountain, which is the landmark attraction of Jingting Mountain. There is a spacious exhibition hall in the building to show the footprints left by Li Bai and other celebrities in Xuancheng. Taibai Sitting Alone Building is named after Li Bai's Sitting Alone in Jingting Mountain. Speaking of Li Bai, his fate with Jingting Mountain and Xuancheng is too deep. In the first year of Tianbao (742), when Li Bai lived temporarily in Nanling (now Wuhu), a county under Xuancheng, he was recommended by He Zhizhang, Princess Yuzhen and others. Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty called him to Beijing to serve as a sacrifice in the Imperial Academy. Li Bai was so excited that he thought he would soar. "Going out laughing, is our generation a penghao person?" "Children from Nanling enter Beijing" is full of high spirits. However, in just two years, he offended powerful people and was given money by Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty, which was tantamount to announcing that his official career had ended.

? Li Zhao, Li Bai's slave brother, learned that this slave brother was in a bad situation, so he wrote a warm invitation letter, introduced in detail the treasures of things in Xuancheng, and invited him to live in Xuancheng. When Li Bai was 53 years old, he came to Xuancheng at the invitation of Li Zhao. After that, he spent most of his life in Xuancheng, and his death and burial were also in Xuancheng (Dangtu used to belong to Xuancheng). Li Bai left Chang 'an to roam the Jianghu, and suffered from the warmth and warmth of human feelings. Xuancheng accepted him and tolerated him like a gentle elder. Li Bai made a group of friends who were congenial and sincere, such as Ouyang Taishou, Cui Shiyu and Ji Zuo. The most famous of course is Wang Lun, the magistrate of Jingxian County, who is "the peach blossom pool is deeper than thousands of feet, not as good as Wang Lun's", and Li Bai lingers in Xie Tiao Building and respects him. Therefore, scholars of all ages followed the footsteps of Xie and Li, which led to the saying that Xuancheng was a poet's land since ancient times.

? Xuancheng has been a metropolis in the south of the Yangtze River since the Western Han Dynasty. It is rich in humanities and elegant. Jixi County under its jurisdiction is the core area of Huizhou culture. Many celebrities have been born in Xuancheng. Hu Shi, Hu Xueyan, Mei Yaochen, Mei Wending, etc. are all from Xuancheng, and Fan Ye, Shen Kuo, Wen Tianxiang, Bai Juyi and Du Mu have successively served as Xuancheng satrap or lived here. Xuancheng is also the transition zone between the mountainous area in southern Anhui and the plain along the river, which has always been a battleground for military strategists. The mountains and rivers are bordered by mountains and rivers, and the military town is a country and a country. "Du Mu's" Title Xuancheng "analyzes Xuancheng's strategic position in the military. Xuancheng has a profound historical and cultural heritage. Jingxian County is the place where the Southern Anhui Incident happened. Chaji Ancient Town, Longchuan Ancient Village, Taohuatan, etc., after the precipitation of time, exudes an indescribable charm. In Xuancheng, poetry, celebrities, products, folk customs, patriarchal clan, whatever, are enough to talk about. Two or three days' travel was too hasty, and even the Chinese alligator didn't go to see it. It was a passing sight, and I was looking forward to a chance to revisit it.