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Techniques for growing tomatoes in greenhouses

Tomatoes are one of the earliest greenhouse vegetables introduced to Shouguang, Shandong Province. The general income per standard greenhouse is between 3,000 and 40,000 yuan, but there are also examples of higher incomes. The main tasks are as follows: .

1. Improve the thermal insulation capacity of the greenhouse. The method is the same as cucumber.

2. Choose good varieties. To grow tomatoes in greenhouses, choose unlimited growth varieties that can withstand low temperatures, have strong low-light capabilities, have high yields, have fewer deformed fruits, have thick flesh, can withstand storage and transportation, have good commercial properties, have strong disease resistance, and have strong growth potential, such as Sunrise Winter Crown. , Sunrise Golden Crown No. 1.

3. Arrange the disputes well. Tomato seedlings should be raised appropriately early. It is best to sow seeds in early July and plant seedlings in early August. In this way, the autumn stubble will be delayed until the next spring when watermelons are planted, and 4 to 5 layers of fruits can be harvested, while the overwintering stubble can be harvested. When the tomatoes grow to 6-7 layers and the flowers bloom, top them. After harvesting, prune the branches and re-cultivate them. You can harvest 5-6 layers of fruits. Each tomato plant can harvest 11-12 layers of fruits, so that you can have more fruit. Good benefits.

4. Cultivate strong seedlings. As the saying goes, "50% of the harvest is based on good seedlings." Cultivating strong seedlings free of diseases and insect pests is half the success of cultivation. Tomato seedlings are generally raised from July to August. Farmers are accustomed to raising seedlings in greenhouses. In this way, the seedlings are easily infected with pests and diseases during the seedling stage, and it is impossible to use the high temperature in summer to disinfect the greenhouse. Therefore, it is best to build a shade outside the greenhouse. Seedlings are raised in greenhouses, and the greenhouses are disinfected by using high temperatures in summer.

Build a flat border outside the shed. The border is 1.2 meters wide and about 6 meters long. The border frame is 25 centimeters high. It should be stepped on firmly to prevent rainwater from entering. Set up a bow shed on the border. The bow shed is 1.8 meters wide and 1.8 meters high. 1.5 meters, the middle and upper parts are covered with old film to block light, cool down, and prevent rain. The two sides are not covered with film, but are covered with insect-proof nets to prevent pests from invading. Seedlings grow very fast in summer and can be planted in about 25 days. Therefore, seedlings are generally grown in 8 cm × 8 cm nutrient pots without separate seedlings. Viral diseases are most likely to occur when raising seedlings in summer. Therefore, when soaking seeds, first soak them in clean water for 3 to 4 hours, and then soak them in 10% trisodium phosphate solution for 20 minutes, which can effectively prevent the seeds from spreading viruses. After removing and washing, put the seeds into a gauze bag and place them in a germination box at 25-28 degrees for germination. When half of the seeds are white, they can be sown. The main content of summer seedling management is scientific watering to prevent excessive growth, insect pests and viral diseases. Before emergence, the border surface should be covered with a shading net to cool down and moisturize. After half of the seeds are covered with soil, remove the cover from the border surface in the evening. The old film on the shade shed must always be covered. After the seedlings are unearthed, watering should be done first and then wet, that is, water lightly after the ground surface is dry. Do not skip watering to prevent the seedlings from growing vigorously, which will lead to the formation of aging seedlings. When it is found that the seedlings are growing vigorously, the first is to control the watering appropriately, the second is to widen the distance between the seedlings and increase the nutrient area, and the third is to spray 60~100ppm of aphrodisiac on the leaves to prevent it. After emergence, you can spray 10% imidacloprid 1500 times solution plus 20% virus A 500 times solution once every 5 to 7 days to prevent insects and viral diseases.

5. Plant seedlings reasonably. Half a month before planting seedlings, the remaining branches and leaves of the previous crop of vegetables and the remains of diseases and insect pests should be removed and buried deep outside the greenhouse or burned. Apply 10 cubic meters of fully decomposed farmyard manure per acre, plus 80 to 100 kilograms of superphosphate, 25 to 30 kilograms of potassium sulfate, 20 to 30 kilograms of urea, and 1 to 2 kilograms of trace element fertilizer boric acid (2 yuan/jin) , 5 to 10 kilograms of magnesium sulfate (1 jiao/jin), 3 to 5 kilograms of ferrous sulfate (5 jiao/jin), and 3 kilograms of zinc sulfate (1 yuan/jin) as base fertilizer. Spread evenly on the surface and turn 30 cm deep. Only with enough base fertilizer can we have high yield and high efficiency. The ridge width is 80 cm, the furrow width is 60 cm, and the ridge height is 15 cm. After the ridges are done, pour plenty of water, spray all surfaces in the greenhouse with 5% fungal solution 100 to 150 times, then cover with film, seal the greenhouse, and keep it under high temperature for 7 to 10 days to kill pests and diseases and mature. The role of soil. The day before planting seedlings, water the seedlings in the seedbed, and spray 72.2% Purik aqueous solution 800 times and 10% imidacloprid 1500 times once to prevent diseases and insect pests. When planting seedlings, the small row spacing is 60 cm, the large row spacing is 80 cm, and the plant spacing is 45 cm. More than 2,100 plants per acre are planted. Note that seedlings should be planted in stages, and the depth should be such that the rhizomes are buried. Planting too deep may easily lead to the occurrence of "black stem disease"; when planting seedlings, place the first flower buds facing the direction of the broad row, so that the future fruits will see more light and be evenly colored. consistent.

6. Scientific and meticulous management. After tomatoes are planted, the income depends mainly on whether the management is scientific and meticulous. Only by creating the most suitable environmental conditions for tomatoes on a scientific basis can we achieve high yields and high benefits. On sunny days, open the straw curtain after the greenhouse is exposed to light every day, clean the shed membrane, and increase the light transmittance of the membrane. When the temperature rises to 30°C, open the top seam for ventilation. The size of the vent should be such that the temperature drops within 5°C after ventilation. The wind is closed when the temperature drops to 22℃ in the afternoon, and the curtains are covered before sunset. The minimum temperature is not lower than 12℃ before the curtains are unveiled in the morning. On cloudy days, it is appropriate to uncover it late and cover it early to prevent ventilation. When it snows, clean up the snow in time and open the curtains appropriately at noon to expose the light. Note that on cloudy and snowy days, the curtains must be uncovered during the day and covered at night, and the outside of the curtains must be covered with cold-proof film. When it clears up after continuous cloudy or snowy days, the flowers must be shaded and not ventilated to allow the greenhouse temperature to rise slowly. Excessive temperature rise can easily cause the plants to wilt. After cloudy or snowy days, diseases are prone to occur, so spraying is necessary to prevent diseases. When spraying, add 25 grams of urea and 20 grams of potassium dihydrogen phosphate to each barrel to supplement nutrients for tomatoes. When the temperature in the ceiling is too low due to cloudy and snowy conditions, an iron stove can be used to light a fire in the shed to raise the temperature to prevent freezing.

Tomatoes are most likely to grow vigorously after planting them in August, and vigorous growth is mainly achieved through watering. Therefore, watering is generally not done after the bottom water is poured enough, and top-dressing is not watered until the first fruit grows to the size of a walnut. It is really a drought. Only a small amount of water should be watered at this time. Watering more before the plant grows to the first ear of walnuts is the main reason for the vigorous growth of tomatoes. When the first ear of walnuts is big, carry out the first top dressing and watering. Apply 15 to 20 kilograms of three-yuan compound fertilizer per acre. After that, the second and third ears of fruit will be top-dressed once when each ear of walnuts grows to the size of walnuts. Fertilizer: 10 to 15 kilograms of urea and 8 to 12 kilograms of potassium sulfate per mu, usually with water. Watering must be done in the morning on a sunny day, and the air vents should be opened at noon for ventilation and humidification, which can effectively prevent the occurrence of diseases. During the low temperature period, use dark irrigation under the film, and the amount of watering should be small to prevent excessive watering from causing the ground temperature to drop too much and affecting the normal growth of tomatoes. Greenhouse tomatoes generally use single pole pruning, leaving only one main pole and all side branches thinned out. Pruning of side branches should be carried out in the morning on a sunny day, as this will facilitate wound healing. When the first ear of fruit is green and ripe (the fruit grows to its maximum size and the top of the fruit turns from green to white), remove the old leaves under the first ear of fruit. When the second ear of fruit is green and ripe, remove the old leaves under the second ear of fruit. By analogy, this will facilitate ventilation and light transmission, reduce ineffective consumption of nutrients, and prevent the spread of diseases. If cultivated in late autumn, after the five ears on the main stem have bloomed, leave 2 to 3 leaves above the ears for topping. For overwintering cultivation, after the main stem has produced 6 to 7 ears of fruit, leave 2 to 3 leaves above the ear for picking, and start to reserve side branches on the stem. After the fruits on the main stem are harvested, if each tomato plant If all side branches are produced, select a strong side branch at the base and cut off the old branches above it. If there are no plants with side branches nearby, put the tomato plant down, choose a side branch at the base to hang up and grow in this place, and choose a side branch at the top to hang up and grow with the hanging rope of the plant without side branches. The second crop can bear 5 to 6 layers of fruits. In winter and spring, when the temperature is low and the light is weak, it is not easy for tomatoes to bear fruit, so it is necessary to preserve flowers and fruits. To preserve flowers and fruits, it is best to spray flowers with anti-falling agent (tomato spirit) at a concentration of 25-50 mg/kg when 3 to 4 flowers bloom in an inflorescence. When spraying flowers, it is best to add 0.1% of 50% Keling controls gray mold. Spraying flowers with anti-falling agent is more labor-intensive than using 2.4-D to spot flowers, and it is less likely to cause phytotoxicity. However, 2.4-D must not be sprayed, otherwise phytotoxicity will easily occur. Tomato cultivation also requires thinning of flowers and fruits, because if there are too many flowers in one ear, the fruit will be of different sizes and the marketability will be poor. Large-fruited varieties retain 3 to 4 fruits per ear, and medium-fruited varieties retain 5 to 6 fruits per ear. The first and second layers can be left as small as possible to prevent the seedlings from falling. The remaining fruit is generally "pinch off the head and tail and leave the middle", that is, the first fruit is not left, and the subsequent small fruits and deformed fruits are not left. In this way, the remaining fruits are of the same size and have good marketability.

Seventh, we must strengthen the prevention and control of pests and diseases. The key to pest control is "prevention", which mainly reduces the source of pests and diseases by removing and destroying the diseased remains of the previous crop, disinfecting greenhouses at high temperatures to create a clean cultivation environment, watering under the film in the morning on sunny days, and ventilating and cooling in time after watering. Agricultural measures such as controlling air humidity and pesticides are used to prevent it. Generally, vegetables are prone to disease after continuous cloudy, rainy, and snowy days. Therefore, it is necessary to check the weather forecast and spray pesticides before cloudy, rainy, and snowy days come to prevent it. When pests and diseases are discovered, diseased leaves and fruits should be removed promptly, and pesticides should be used for prevention and control in a timely manner.

The current diseases of greenhouse tomatoes in Shandong mainly include damping-off disease, damping-off disease, early blight, late blight, leaf mold, gray mold, and stem rot (black stem disease) in the seedling stage. and umbilical cord rot. The main pests include whiteflies, aphids, and leafminers, and their control is the same as for cucumbers.

Damping-off and blight are mainly prevented by spraying the seedbed soil with 95% Lvheng No. 1 1g 3000 times per square meter for disinfection. Once diseased seedlings are found, they are promptly removed and sprayed with 90% mold. 1000 times liquid of Lingweitable powder, or 600 times liquid of 72.2% Prequel aqueous solution, or 1000 times liquid of 30% Guangkuling, or 500 times liquid of 58% Jinredomier-MnZn wettable powder, or 3.2% cacao Nail nail polish 300 times liquid. Spray once every 5 to 7 days, and spray 2 to 3 times in a row.

When an early epidemic occurs, 58% manganese zinc 500 times solution can be used; or 70% proponium zinc 600 times solution; or 64% virus-killing vitriol 500 times solution; 50-60 kilograms of medicinal solution per mu, Once every 7 to 10 days. For protected areas, 50% Garrenon or 5% chlorothalonil dust can be used, 1 kg per mu. The diseased spots on the stems can be scraped with a knife first, and then applied with 180 to 200 times of 50% hydantoin solution and a small amount of flour.

In the early stages of late blight, you can spray 0.5% OS-Stirling (chitosan) aqueous solution 300 to 500 times, or 52.5% Suppressant Water Dispersible Granules 1,500 times, or 72% Use Kelu wettable powder 500 to 600 times liquid, or 69% Anker manganese zinc wettable powder 600 times liquid. Use 50 to 60 kilograms of the prepared liquid per acre, once every 7 to 10 days, and control continuously for 2 to 3 times. In the greenhouse, 200-250 grams of 45% chlorothalonil fumigation agent can be used per mu or 1 kilogram of 5% dust agent can be sprayed for control, once every 9 days.

In the early stage of the onset of leaf mold, use 2% Wuyimycin (BO-10) solution 100 to 150 times, or 2% Kasugamycin (plus rice) solution 20 ml/L, or 47% Garenon wettable powder 700-800 times liquid, or 60% carbendazim hydrochloride (anti-mildew) wettable powder 600 times liquid, spray 50-60 kg of good liquid per mu.

Once every 7 to 10 days, control 2 to 3 times continuously. In the greenhouse, you can use 45% chlorothalonil fumigant 250g once per mu, smoke for 1 night or spray 7% chlorothalonil dust in the evening, or 5% Garenon dust, 1kg once per mu, every 8 ~Once every 10 days, alternately apply.

Botrytis cinerea is a disease caused by low temperature and high humidity. Ventilation and dehumidification should be strengthened. Watering should be done in the morning on a sunny day. After the onset of the disease, remove the diseased fruits, leaves and branches promptly, put them in a plastic bag and burn them. Or buried deep. Medication should be used during the critical period of disease onset. Before planting, spray the tomato seedlings with 1500 times of 50% Sukelin wettable powder and require disease-free seedlings to enter the shed. Add 0.1% of 50% Crackling when dotting flowers. Before pouring the fruit water, spray 3% polyoxygen aqueous solution 900 times, or 50% Sukelin wettable powder 1500 times, or 25% prochloraz (100 grams) EC 1000 times, or 40% Botrytis cinerea Use 1,200 times liquid of nuclear purifier, or 1,200 times liquid of 40% Shikari wettable powder, or 800 times liquid of 50% F61 wettable powder, once every 7 to 10 days, *** 3 to 4 times. Pay attention to rotating or alternating medication. You can also use 150 grams of 3% Botrytis cinerea fumigant per acre or 250 grams of 10% Procyon fumigant, fumigating for one night, once every 7 to 8 days. You can also spray 5% fenzofen dust or 6.5% methyl sulfide? 6.1 Dicarb dust, 1 kg per mu, once every 9 days, alternate with other fungicides depending on the condition.

To control stem base rot (black stem disease), it is best to use 40% seed dressing per 1 square meter of topsoil when planting seedlings. After mixing thoroughly, cover the base of the diseased plants with mounds. Bury the diseased part to encourage it to grow adventitious roots above the diseased spot, which can prolong lifespan and increase yield. In addition, you can also spray 35% Phosphate 6?1 A (Liquumin) wettable powder 800 times liquid, or 20% Phosphate methyl EC 1200 times liquid, or 95% Dimethicone original drug ( Luheng No. 1) premium 3000 times solution. You can also apply 78% Cobo wettable powder 200 times to the affected area with a small amount of flour.

The cause of umbilical rot is calcium deficiency in the diseased parts. Because the order of calcium distribution is old leaves, young leaves, terminal buds, and fruits, calcium deficiency is easy to occur on fruits. The first step in prevention and control is to strengthen environmental regulation and balance water supply. Second, 30 days after fruit setting (the sensitive period for calcium deficiency reaction), spray 0.5 to 1% calcium chloride + 5 ppm naphthalene acetic acid + a small amount of vitamin B6 (to prevent the formation of oxalic acid) on the leaves.